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Found 22 results

  1. The-Good-Earth

    Butvar source

    Hi - I’ve had a hard time locating museum quality butvar - most particularly the the high molecular weight versions B-98. Could anyone point me to a source that could supply in less than large bulk quantity? many thanks in advance.
  2. Hi Fossil Forum, I joined this forum for help with an issue that is baffling me, I have used butvar for many years. I make multiple liters at a time and usually slowly mix the butvar in over the course of 24-72 hours to prevent clumping. This is a standard 5% solution, 50g to 1000mL. I was in a rush, and I basically dumped all the powder into the solvent at once. After a couple days and stirring often, the solution seemed stable and the clumps were gone. We then filtered it into smaller bottles then, after a few days the resin congealed, almost to like a jello looking consist
  3. outdoorsman555

    Whale vertebra - how to...

    A friend took me out to a spot on a creek he owns where you can find Miocene-era fossils. Found several whale bones, all black in color, except this large vertebra which is all white. My friend said I needed to stabilize the white ones, as they would crumble over time otherwise. Looking through the various posts on here I bought some butvar, but found a couple methods that people talked about for use. Completely submerge the fossil, paint brush on the solution, or use a turkey baster to squirt it on? Not sure how to proceed. After dissolving the butvar into acetone, w
  4. Where do you guys buy your prep supplies? I've looked on line and have mixed feelings about some of the places that do offer this kind of stuff. I'm sure people here have their favorite sellers who won't rip a rookie like me off. Thanks!!!!
  5. Ok I have a large mostly complete bison skull I need to consolidate as it has started flaking. I have some butvar 76 and acetone, which I understand I should mix at a ratio of 1:50 for stabilizing. I have soaked old gun stocks I mb acetone in aluminum pans in the past, I am thinking of doing this as it appears for stabilization you want to submerge the skull for about 10 minutes, not just pour it or paint it on correct?
  6. Dozens of articles written about stabilizing crumbly specimens but I have yet to find someone who can make me feel confident about a solution. I kayak rivers and find tusks and crumbly bones on the sandbars. They are wet or at least half wet from contact with the ground. The stabilizer must dry quickly, be reversible and work on a wet specimens. Currently I leave most of them where I find them because I cannot come up with a good solution.
  7. I am going to feel bad if there is already a post with as much information as I am looking for, but I can't seem to find one. Essentially, I am having a hard time finding the proper consolidation materials. I have never prepped before, and I am going to be starting my first project this weekend. That being said, the extent of my knowledge of sealants comes from research on this forum. I am looking for the right materials to use (with or without acetone dilute) to keep my fossils from being damaged while working on some Moroccan matrix. I'm not finding anywhere reliable to purchase PVA B-15, Bu
  8. Fossil-Collecter


    Hi Everyone, I recently decided to start preserving all of my pleistocene fossils and feel that Butvar-76 would be the best option. My problem is I can't find it anywhere. I contacted the Florida Paleontological Society and they said they don't carry it anymore. They recommended I either use Duco Cement in acetone or to look on the Museum Service Corporation website. On the Museum Service Corporation website it says that Butvar-76 has been discontinued, but they have an equivalent called B08SY Resin. Here's what they have listed: Butvar Res
  9. TrilobiteAndrew

    Butvar artifacts.

    Every time I use Butvar in acetone (10% w/v) on a fossil, I get a white milky residue that is very difficult to clean off. I was told that the relative humidity had to be below 50% to avoid the white residue, but in Florida that does not happen that often. Questions: 1) How can I pull off the white residue without damaging the mammal fossil (manatee skull)? 2) Will a 5-10% PVA solution in ethanol work better in a high humidity environment than Butvar? 3) Would dissolving Butvar in ethanol work better than in acetone for the white resi
  10. Hello all, I am in the process of restoring 2 beige mammoth tooth, but before going on with a butvar dip, I was wondering if anyone has a good tip in order to enhance the natural colors of fossils. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  11. alej9582

    B-76 Wont Desolve

    Can anyone tell me why the B-76 is not dissolving in acetone? Is it supposed to be like this pic below? Alex
  12. I found a great dispenser bottle for Butvar 76 dissolved in acetone from Nalgene: 60 ml/2oz LDPE drop dispenser bottle. I have used it for more than 5 years (stored inside) and have had not problems with evaporation, leakage or being unable to unscrew the bottle or open the top due to Butvar films. I do keep the bottle upright in a larger plastic container to catch any mishaps. I bought mine at REI in the camping section. I suppose that this bottle also would work with other consolidants/solvent combinations including those using ethyl alcohol. See chart for plastic containers an
  13. I found a US source, Talas, for small quantities of Butvar and Paraloid consolidants in 1 and 5 lb quantities. http://www.talasonline.com/Butvar-Resin For a great bottle to use with Butvar and probably other consolidants see my post:
  14. Hi folks. I left my PVA beads at home. This is what I normally use as a consolidant. PVA beads in acetone. Anyone think of a readily available substitute? Something that could be available at the hardware store and is reversible with acetone or another solvent. Cane across a shop selling plastic beads as stuffers for toys etc. I wonder if polystyrene would work as it dissolves in acetone, might not be as hard as PVA.... Any ideas?
  15. Plantguy

    Butvar questions

    Hey Guys, I'm working on trying to mix up some butvar and acetone to put on a tusk tip fragment thats cracking/falling apart. I have had some butvar in a plastic ziplock in the garage for about 3-4 years and never used it. I worked thru the math from some of the other threads and decided that 1 tsp in 8 oz of acetone would get me started and might not be too shiney. About 4 hours ago I put the stuff in a glass jar and its still looking cloudy and I can still see lots of material floating around inside when I swirl it. Will it be completely clear or still somewhat cloud
  16. I'm going to be making a trip to the Waco Pit this weekend, and I'm hoping to find some pyritized ammonites. If I get lucky and find some, can I use butvar to help preserve them? Also, is there any way to shine them up just a bit? I know a harsh polishing scrub would damage them, but what about something like a toothbrush to get them clean?
  17. Fossiljones

    opinions about consolidents

    I've never worked with consolidents, but I need to start consolidating some of my treasures. Reading through the posts here it seems many of them are a few years old, and there are some new products not mentioned. For example Butvar B76 is mentioned, but I see online that it's been "discontinued" and the recommended replacement is "B08SY". Does anyone have experience with "B08S"? Is there one good "all around" consolident? For example one that could be used on bone as well as Mammoth tusk, Mastodon teeth, etc.?
  18. This is a Mastodon tusk fragment I found this in a fresh water environment in early November. It seemed relatively stable after cleaning, but over the past four months the uniform dark brown has taken on this mottled pattern. I haven’t detected any instability, no flaking or crumbling, but it no longer sounds solid when tapped with a finger, I assume cracks and fractures are propagating with progressive drying and differential shrinking. I know modern elephant ivory can develop cracks as it ages. So I assume it’s only a matter of time before this fragment starts to fall apart. I hav
  19. This tooth in matrix has been sitting on a local diver's desk for about three years, under a dust cover, and has remained very stable. We think the matrix is essentially a phosphatic nodule. It's basically a piece of the ACE River Basin river bottom, and obviously it's an amazing specimen. I wanted to prep. it using a hardener, but I've never prepped any fossils before, and wasn't sure which product that I should use. I've heard of Butvar, of course and know people use it on bone, but this isn't bone, it's more mineral. Should I dip, or brush? It would seem a lot cheaper to brush it on. I'
  20. Good morning, everyone. I have quite a few plates of bryozoans, echinoid spines and crinoid pieces from the Lake Brownwood Spillway. I was wondering which would be the best for sealing them. As you probably know, the bryozoans are extremely fragile and if they pull free of the matrix, they practically shatter. Also, some might require a little more cleanup than just a toothbrush and water. I have an air eraser. Would dolomite be too harsh on the lacy bryozoans? I'm a major newbie, and have no experience in prepping these kinds of fossils (or any other kind, for that matter).
  21. I got a kilo of Butvar-76 plastic from Museum Services Corporation, and slowly mixed a tiny amount into acetone following a 2.3 tablespoons to 800 ml ratio (about a 1:24 by volume) I found in an excellent post by Mattalic. Tonight I treated my first few fossils with it. Some random observations on the process... 1) Everyone says when working with acetone to do so in a well-ventilated place, preferably outdoors. They say this for a very good reason. Don't be a dork (like me) and mix it indoors. I was queasy for several hours afterwards. 2) The largish (approx 6" diameter) glass jar I bought
  22. Let me start out by saying I am not a fossil preservation expert, nor a paleontologist. I have a PhD in Paleoclimatological Modelling and as a consequence, spent my time glued to a computer, with my head deep in computer science and geological papers but not the rocks. My undergraduate honors thesis however was in paleontology, determining a metric for characterizing patterns in evolution using the morphology of Conodonts and Archosaurs... so I've always had a love for the field and have taken up fossil collecting again as a hobby now that I have found some time. Thought my recent head-first
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