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Found 13 results

  1. I_gotta_rock

    Dumb question of the day

    I've been prepping my fossils manually for years. Glue is my friend and my worst enemy. For some of my delicate micros, one drop is more than enough to encase the tiny object AND glue it to whatever surface on which it rests. I've succeeded in gluing my fossils to silicone mats, pin points, and my fingers through plastic gloves after the glue ate through the gloves. Lately I've settled on wax paper and lots of rolling the piece around to keep it from pooling when the glue invariably rolls off the surface of less porous shells. It still sticks to the wax , but at least the wax peels off the paper and comes off with a bit of acetone and a delicate touch. There has to be a better way to do this with less permeable surfaces. What do you do to keep from gluing your pieces to the table?
  2. erikajoan212

    Butvar question

    Hi everyone, would Butvar B-76 be good to help seal and stabalize a leaf fossil in shale? Would I just put it on the surface or submerge the whole piece in the solution? I'd like to keep the fossil looking as natural as possible, not glossy at all. Thanks!
  3. outdoorsman555

    Whale vertebra - how to...

    A friend took me out to a spot on a creek he owns where you can find Miocene-era fossils. Found several whale bones, all black in color, except this large vertebra which is all white. My friend said I needed to stabilize the white ones, as they would crumble over time otherwise. Looking through the various posts on here I bought some butvar, but found a couple methods that people talked about for use. Completely submerge the fossil, paint brush on the solution, or use a turkey baster to squirt it on? Not sure how to proceed. After dissolving the butvar into acetone, which method is the best for vertebra? If I submerge it, which sounds like it might be the best for stabilizing (as it would permeate to the core), how do you move it from the submersion tank to a spot to dry? It doesn’t fall apart once you set it in butvar/aceatone solution for a while? I have let the vertebra dry for several months now. This is my first attempt at preserving a fossil so any tips/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. Its been a minute since I've posted About 20 years ago while doing research online for fossil preservation I read somewhere that curators used "B-72" as adhesive and consolidate. so I did some digging and found a supplier that offered up free samples. I ordered some and after it arrived we were moving and it was packed away. the next couple of places I lived didn't afford me the space to do my hobbies and prep my fossils. Much time has passed and I am now able to haul out some of those fossils and work on them. I dug out the "B-72" I had ordered years before and started to look up info on how to properly mix my "B-72". Low and behold I didn't realize that there are other products that use the same handle "B-72". I now see its "Paraloid B-72" or "Butvar B-76" that are most commonly used for this purpose. So what's the difference?, and can this "Butvar B-72" be used? Is there or could there be any negative or undesirable effects from this stuff? will it ruin my fossils? If it can be used, does one dilute it the same as the other products? what W/V % should be mixed for consolidating vs using as an adhesive? Thanks for any input
  5. Hello again! I have done my first experiment with Butvar 76 after drying my Green River fish fossils for 15 days. For this first experiment I selected a thin partially complete Diplomystus from the lower quality end of my haul last month. I gently blew compressed air over the fossil which had been picked lightly with a dental tool, then applied my mix of Butvar-76 and acetone. I found different recommendations for the ratio, and probably used to much powder in my solution because as you can see, upon returning from work I found that small bubbles were trapped inside. I assume the surface tension was too high to allow them to escape as a result of using too thick Butvar. For my next experiment I will thin it out, and brush on thin coats and apply them one at a time instead of thickly applying it. I also noticed that some of the stone dust washed into the solution above the fossils midsection in the depressions between the thin bones. Feel free to critique my first attempt and give any advice.
  6. The-Good-Earth

    Butvar source

    Hi - I’ve had a hard time locating museum quality butvar - most particularly the the high molecular weight versions B-98. Could anyone point me to a source that could supply in less than large bulk quantity? many thanks in advance.
  7. Hi Fossil Forum, I joined this forum for help with an issue that is baffling me, I have used butvar for many years. I make multiple liters at a time and usually slowly mix the butvar in over the course of 24-72 hours to prevent clumping. This is a standard 5% solution, 50g to 1000mL. I was in a rush, and I basically dumped all the powder into the solvent at once. After a couple days and stirring often, the solution seemed stable and the clumps were gone. We then filtered it into smaller bottles then, after a few days the resin congealed, almost to like a jello looking consistency in some of the bottles. I realize I should have stuck to the original method, but I am trying to rule out other possible reasons for this reaction. Has anyone else had a similar outcome of mixing butvar too fast, I realize many of you only mix small amounts at a time.
  8. Where do you guys buy your prep supplies? I've looked on line and have mixed feelings about some of the places that do offer this kind of stuff. I'm sure people here have their favorite sellers who won't rip a rookie like me off. Thanks!!!!
  9. Ok I have a large mostly complete bison skull I need to consolidate as it has started flaking. I have some butvar 76 and acetone, which I understand I should mix at a ratio of 1:50 for stabilizing. I have soaked old gun stocks I mb acetone in aluminum pans in the past, I am thinking of doing this as it appears for stabilization you want to submerge the skull for about 10 minutes, not just pour it or paint it on correct?
  10. Dozens of articles written about stabilizing crumbly specimens but I have yet to find someone who can make me feel confident about a solution. I kayak rivers and find tusks and crumbly bones on the sandbars. They are wet or at least half wet from contact with the ground. The stabilizer must dry quickly, be reversible and work on a wet specimens. Currently I leave most of them where I find them because I cannot come up with a good solution.
  11. I am going to feel bad if there is already a post with as much information as I am looking for, but I can't seem to find one. Essentially, I am having a hard time finding the proper consolidation materials. I have never prepped before, and I am going to be starting my first project this weekend. That being said, the extent of my knowledge of sealants comes from research on this forum. I am looking for the right materials to use (with or without acetone dilute) to keep my fossils from being damaged while working on some Moroccan matrix. I'm not finding anywhere reliable to purchase PVA B-15, Butvar, or anything of the sort. Is there a more easily accessible material I can work with? I need very little at this point in time, and not necessarily something expensive or overly high-quality as the items I will be working with are small and cheap. What are other alternatives that people use, and what are the benefits of each of them? I am eager to know all there is to know, and I've been slowly going down the list of each of the topics in this thread hoping to find what I'm looking for!
  12. Fossil-Collecter

    Butvar-76

    Hi Everyone, I recently decided to start preserving all of my pleistocene fossils and feel that Butvar-76 would be the best option. My problem is I can't find it anywhere. I contacted the Florida Paleontological Society and they said they don't carry it anymore. They recommended I either use Duco Cement in acetone or to look on the Museum Service Corporation website. On the Museum Service Corporation website it says that Butvar-76 has been discontinued, but they have an equivalent called B08SY Resin. Here's what they have listed: Butvar Resins White, free flowing powders. Generally soluble in alcohols, acetone and aromatic hydrocarbons. Forms films similar to polyvinyl acetate and is suggested as picture varnishes. Widely used to waterproof textiles. The films resist degradation by sunlight and heat. Average molecular weight is 30-34,000. Butvar B-76 has been discontinued. B08SY Resin is considered an equivalent resin to Butvar B-76, from a different supplier. It utilizes the same Polyvinyl Butyral resin as Butvar B-76. B08SY resin has the same solubility as Butvar B-76, but has a smaller grain size. Contact Museum Services Corporation for additional information, or to acquire a sample for testing purposes. F4503-001 B08SY 1 kilogram $34.00 F4504-001 B-79 1 kilogram $31.09 F4505-001 B-90 1 kilogram $25.08 F4501-001 B-98 1 kilogram $46.12 Has anyone bought B08SY or know where I can still get Butvar-76? If not, are there any consolidants that you would recommend using instead?
  13. TrilobiteAndrew

    Butvar artifacts.

    Every time I use Butvar in acetone (10% w/v) on a fossil, I get a white milky residue that is very difficult to clean off. I was told that the relative humidity had to be below 50% to avoid the white residue, but in Florida that does not happen that often. Questions: 1) How can I pull off the white residue without damaging the mammal fossil (manatee skull)? 2) Will a 5-10% PVA solution in ethanol work better in a high humidity environment than Butvar? 3) Would dissolving Butvar in ethanol work better than in acetone for the white residue? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. TrilobiteAndrew
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