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  1. I had a fairly good last two Saturdays finding larger (relatively for me) mortoniceras ammonites in a creek off of I-35W south of Denton, TX. Here are some unprepped stacked ones waiting in line at the beauty shop. I also found a 14-inch mortoniceras that appeared risky to remove at first glance so I left it in the surrounding matrix and removed the entire area. Very heavy quarter mile hike back to my car. But I’m stronger for it. lol! I also wanted to highlight a 13-inch ammonite I skeptically chiseled out of a huge rock in the summer of 2023 from the Benbrook area (east of the lake). The creek side exposure was so worn down, there’s almost nothing left. But the other side, once I got it out, showed a beautiful orange color. It was broken in two pieces and the end of the ammonite had some very dense rock around it. Instead of chopping it off and trying to make a smaller ammonite, we decided to carve the rock into its own base. Glue lines were prepped out and it made for a very nice one-sided display after the usual yet detailed air scribe and air abrasive work. Some people like perfection on both sides (I do too), but sometimes creative solutions exist to make the imperfect look great.
  2. Have any of you ever used a plate of oysters or turritella as the base for an ammonite you want to display? Or maybe an echinoid? I’ll attach an example. I’m just curious if it looks visually appealing and whether you use some sort of glue or drill into the fossil?
  3. Shaun-DFW Fossils

    Coalified wood prep (experimental)

    I found 2 nice pieces of coalified wood sticking out of a clay creek bank near the border of the woodbine and eagleford in southern Tarrant County TX a few weeks apart. The first one cracked into a million pieces after it dried out, though I was at least entertained when I placed it in water and it started popping like a bowl of Rice Krispies, or like the sound of a forest fire. So I sent my larger piece I acquired later to the woody beauty shop for a makeover, giving it a couple of coatings of a glossy polyurethane spray. It’s far from perfect, but at least it looks pretty close to how it looked when I found it and maybe it’ll stay together for a few years. Whatever the mud colored object is, it gradually worked its way out of an exposed cavity on one edge of the wood. Also note what I think are marks left by ship worms (?) on the outside. I find it all very interesting, maybe due to my imagination.
  4. A few months ago I decided I would make an air scribe setup I could put in my office. It took about a month of research and planning to settle on everything. It works great, is totally safe, and my wife hasn't gone mad yet! I thought this would be something the forum would enjoy seeing, as I couldn't find any good information on this topic to help me build mine at the time so I might as well share what I learned along the way! The basic considerations were as follows: Be safe Be professional Be quiet Be reasonably priced Let's break down the requirements and see how they influenced the project. Be Safe The number one concern was airborne dust particles, and their potential to cause major damage to my lungs, and also the lungs of my dogs and wife over time if it got circulated throughout the house through the AC. To combat this I needed to make a box that could contain the dust/rock chips and some form of dust extraction. Not only that, I also needed to ensure the dust extraction was rated for such abrasive dust, and that it would have a HEPA filter to catch the dust and not recirculate it out into the room. Let's start with dust extraction. I had suggestions to just use a shop-vac, however this is not a good idea. Firstly, it's not safe as the filter cannot catch the fine damage-causing silica dust but also it couldn't be run for hours in a row without burning up. I found through my research that this is not an easy product to source, especially not in the US. After a lot of time spent looking and some helpful advice I found Vaniman, and specifically the StoneVac II to be the right product for my needs. It has a bypass motor so the motor doesn't get damaged by the dust which gives it a much longer lifespan. I did not get the brushless version, one reason being this price, but it's also was just unnecessary. For a smaller prep box the Abrasive Vac would work just as well, jsut make sure you request the HEPA filter. Speaking of the box! For the box I designed it based on The Wobbly Fossiler's design. It was made out of one sheet of 1/4" plywood and 1x1's as stringers. The base is 2'x3' as I wanted plenty of room to work on larger pieces. I screwed the wood together and caulked all the joints, then painted over that. The entrance for the hands is garage door brush seal on the top and bottom. This allows ease of access for the hands, mobility/flexibility, keeps chunks from flying back out and, very importantly, is not airtight. One thing I didn't consider initially is that the box cannot be totally airtight or the vacuum won't be able to pull the dust out due to no airflow. I attempted to make everything airtight except this entrance so that the air is predictably entering the box from the front and being drawn straight out the back. For the window I cut a piece of plexiglass and put clear silicone inbetween it and the lid, then bolted it together. This makes it an airtight seal, yet makes it easy to replace in the case of damage to the plexiglass. I ran weather strip seal around the edges of the lid, used latches to secure the lid shut, ran strip LEDs around the inside and cut a hole in the back for the vacuum hose to enter. I used a gromet to ensure an airtight seal around the vacuum hose, which surprisingly was the hardest part of the whole build to source. I could certainly make a better box if I did it again, but I am very satisfied with the result. Professional Capabilities This consideration steered the vision of the project and its scope. I purchased 2 PaleoZOIC scribes (the Velociraptor II and the Balaur) as my scribes to use in this box. There would be no reason to invest in such nice prep tools if the environment they were being used in was poorly constructed, cheap and unable to get the most out of this investment. I also wanted to make sure I had plenty of room to work on some large chunks of Limestone I had collected in the past, and to do that I needed a much larger and more versatile box than any prebuilt ones I came across. I also like the ability to move my arms in and out and side to side to get to whatever position is comfortable as I have some sensitive wrists. Prebuilt boxes and they were either absurdly expensive, or unreliable. Don't Drive my Wife Insane (Be Quiet) As mentioned, this setup was going to go into my inside office. For this consideration, that meant I had to be considerate of others who the noise might impact, namely my wife. Another great advantage of the StoneVac II that I didn't previously mention is how quiet it is. It is quiet enough to have a, maybe slightly elevated, conversation over. However, it is leagues quieter than a ShopVac. This means with the door shut to my office it is not an issue for others in the house. The same can be said for the air compressor. I got an 8 Gallon air compressor from California Air Tools and am very pleased with both its quiet noise level and ability to easily keep up with my tools. It is also oil free and brushless, allowing for virtually no maintenance and a longer life span. I am very satisfied with these two pieces of equipment. Price For this final category, I had to make sure to balance budget, efficiency and safety. Because I saved money on the box I was able to get two very nice air scribes. The air compressor was also quiet inexpensive all things considered. The biggest single expense was undoubtedly the dust extractor, however that is also the piece you cannot skimp out on since it is the most important piece to the puzzle of safety and health. I debated whether it was worth spending so much for this, but in the end I knew my health was more important. The biggest place you could save money over my setup is undoubtedly in the scribes. I needed some high quality scribes for some very delicate prep work I needed to do, so depending on what you're doing you could certainly save a lot there. Conclusions I am very satisfied with my setup as it strikes a great harmony between functionality and price. I would recommend a similar setup to anyone who like myself wants to prep inside for whatever reasons, needs a setup that isn't too expensive, and wants the ability to do professional-grade prep. I am happy to answer any questions! I hope this wasn't too long-winded, I wanted to ensure everything was covered to hopefully inspire/inform others who might have similar limitations and restrictions. Happy prepping!
  5. Shaun-DFW Fossils

    First “prepped” echinoids

    I am new (12-14 months) to hunting for fossils and even newer to trying my hand at prep work. I have zero tools and I’ve mostly dabbled with a few air scribes doing volunteer work cleaning dino bones at southwestern Adventist university, who has a massive collection. But my friend let me practice with his air abrasive tool, which I had not used before. I was pretty happy to get these three hemiaster whitei echinoids prepped after finding them in Fort Worth. He advised me to hold the tool at least an inch away and do slow horizontal back and forth motions to blast away the tiny particles of matrix (and a few larger chunks) I had to free up. I managed to not chip any of them, thankfully! I will be trying my hand at some larger macrasters next. One of them still needs just a little work near the bottom.
  6. Finished my first crab prep last week! To any other crab preparators, I was wondering what you use to cover up dings in the carapace? Is there some sort of paint or putty I could use?
  7. I_gotta_rock

    Dumb question of the day

    I've been prepping my fossils manually for years. Glue is my friend and my worst enemy. For some of my delicate micros, one drop is more than enough to encase the tiny object AND glue it to whatever surface on which it rests. I've succeeded in gluing my fossils to silicone mats, pin points, and my fingers through plastic gloves after the glue ate through the gloves. Lately I've settled on wax paper and lots of rolling the piece around to keep it from pooling when the glue invariably rolls off the surface of less porous shells. It still sticks to the wax , but at least the wax peels off the paper and comes off with a bit of acetone and a delicate touch. There has to be a better way to do this with less permeable surfaces. What do you do to keep from gluing your pieces to the table?
  8. As the title says show your hand prepped fossils.
  9. Newbie_1971

    air abrasion cabinets/set ups

    Can anyone share their air abrasion set ups and give pros and cons? Are homemade cabinets worth the money saved? I saw a reasonably priced unit that Zoic makes, and plans for an exhaust rig posted by a member. Seriously thinking about getting a unit, but trying to figure up an estimated cost. Any help would be much appreciated!
  10. The concretions I've collected recently are like a jigsaw puzzle. When struck many pieces come apart, mostly along the lines of the fossils. So would it be better to try the freeze thaw method for safer opening of the concretions? The one in particular has a possible large Ammonite in it but is trapped by matrix and shells. Hitting it is out of the question and only a stronger air scribe would be considered, which I don't possess, ATM. Ideas are welcome. Steve
  11. Hello, I am looking to talk to Ben Cooper to ask some fossil prep-related questions. Can anyone give me his contact info? Thanks.
  12. Prepping a fossil in the GRF layered matrix is one thing. Carefully and slowly. Prepping a limestone embedded fossil...jack hammer...okay mini jack hammer = air scribe or engraver. Prepping a concretion...depends on the matrix and condition I guess. So I'm now facing a different approach to a concretion which could best be described using Mars Candy, Hershey's Chocolate or Harry Potter Chocolate Frogs wording. Hard on the outside coating with a munchy, crumbly inside, filled with surprises. What I did on site while collecting was to first discern what concretions were the "right " ones. Looking back, they ALL were. I just happened to have picked the type that falls into a thousand piece puzzle when you crack it open. Whereas later in the excursion I began to notice that the harder solid concretions also had fossils inside them, perhaps only a few of a single larger specimen like the English Coast nodules. " Whack, Crack...instantly prepped Ammonite!" The info I researched suggested to look for the rusty brown concretions. Kind of suggestive, IMO. One person's rusty brown isn't the same to another. So finding a chocolate brown concretion first and having every species of mollusk pour out of it suggested to me to find more chocolate. So the question: How do I prep these correctly? Several options obviously - Whack it. Gently tap it. Manually pry it apart. Air scribe usage. Or the freeze thaw method. The last one, F&T, seems like a quick way to completely disassemble the entire puzzle in one thaw cycle. None seem to be the best method in my opinion as each concretion is a bit different. However most have similar traits. Hard rind on the outside up to an inch in thickness. Or a slightly less hard rind with more obvious cracks. Did I mention cracks? More cracks than the San Andreas fault line. I'll be buying bulk cyanoacrylate before the weeks out. My first prep attempt last night did get CA'd wherever I found a crack. Parts on the backside would wiggle loose while scraping, picking, etc. on the front side. Anyone with experience prepping crumbly concretions, please advise. I'm going the cautious route but still think some nice ammonites will crumble. Some seem hardened with mineralization and others look like dark brown sugar crystals pressed into an ammonite mold. Crumbles like that, too. Are they then Steinkerns? This one from last night's prep work. And a new home on a book case shelf.
  13. I soaked this Otodus in hydrogen peroxide (3%) now when it dries a white color over takes the natural color. I’ve tried rinsing and soaking it in fresh water but no help. Did I permanently mess up this tooth? Is there anything I can do? Before and after photo
  14. Recently, a box of rocks arrived in the mail from Hull, England. The rocks are specifically Ammonites in matrix. The species all seem to be Dactylioceras based on what is exposed but that ID could also change once they are prepped. I’ve just barely started fossil prepping with an electric engraver and in previous years of casual collecting the rock hammer was the only tool used. CRACK! Oh, look at that! A fossil trilobite! Prepping done. Yeah, that was it. The Dremel 290 engraver is a “gateway” tool and only with proper tungsten carbide tips replacing the original stylus does the engraver become a lot more capable at removing matrix. Off to a good start, IMO, on the first Ammonite and I’ve already discovered some of what I’ve seen in videos ...i.e. - sticky matrix, pyritic matrix, hard veins of calcite and other fun stuff. The Dremel has its place but I can see the need for an air pen/scribe already. Like I said, it’s a “gateway” tool. Surprisingly, a number of Brits in the preparation discipline/hobby have also tried out the engravers and most say it works, just slower than air tools. So when the Zoic crew get back from their vacay I’ll be placing an order with them. I did buy the 3 pack styli kit from them and like what they offer. There’s an air compressor in the garage ready and waiting. Here’s the contents of my ‘box of rocks’ and a second is en route from across the pond already. This one looked like the low hanging fruit so I’m starting with it. The Dremel with the Zoic stylus chewed right into it with chips flying. The dome reduced nicely until about halfway and I’ve run into pyritic hard stuff. Slow going. So I grabbed another tool and cut some shallow grooves to allow the stylus some chipping purchase. It really helped. Once again the chips are flying and the ribbed whorls are appearing. I’m keeping the sessions under an hour each to avoid overheating the engraver. Thus far it’s not even getting very warm. Fossil prepping technique is new to me and plowing through harder shale is not a bull in a china shop job. More like finesse work. Find the right angle, the right contact point and touch the matrix. At times it seems that the only pressure of the tool is next to nothing. Make contact, pull back to the lightest touch and Pop! Off goes the chip. Fingers crossed! So far I've only done some rough matrix removal. The higher magnification, dental tools and needle work plus air abrasion is to come. Any tips, critique, advice, comments, whatever are welcome. Steve
  15. alex.fossils

    Air Abrasive powder

    Just Curious what powder everyone uses for air abrasive work on fossil ammonites, I heard aluminium oxide is pretty bad for your health and is highly flammable and can explode or some thing, just curious if there's a safer powder to use than that.
  16. RJB

    Fossil prep video

    I've make quit a few video's in the last year or so. This one is about all the tools and things I use to prep fossils along with examples and lots of info. Its a bit long at 44 minutes but even that was not near enough time to get every thing in. It was also one of my most fun video's to make. I was either sitting at my prep bench taking video clips or sittin at my computer editng for 2 days! That was the longest amount of time I've spent on making a video but probably the most fun I've had doing it. If you enjoy this half as much as I did making it, then my job is done here. Enjoy https://youtu.be/GUESK2qOjqE
  17. Desrosiers1718

    Tips for dremel engravers

    I have a dremel engraver similar to the dremel 290 , I was wondering were can I purchase some fossil prep tips chisel , nibs here in the US. I’ve heard of Zioc Paleo but they are in the UK. Thanks
  18. I started picking away stone to reveal this fish from Green River split fish plate, turned out alright
  19. Mostly sandstone from clallam formation WA. The fossils are flaky and the sand stone has many cracks threatening to break into pieces. I know it’s not the prettiest, but I was hoping to stabilize the matrix a bit as well as some of the more preserved shells to expose and highlight them a bit
  20. So last year I got around to consolidating the fossils in my collection with paraloid B-72. I used a 4% concentration by volume. Unfortunately when doing this, I missed what I've since seen some call a crucial step, and that is to ensure that each fossil is sufficiently dry before consolidating. My question is, how massive of a mistake is this, and how one would go about correcting this. From my understanding, the theory is that the plastic traps the water inside the fossil which causes it to rot from the inside out. How long does this process take to occur? I havent had any fossils breaking apart in the meantime. I would think that since acetone is miscible in water, any water that is inside the fossil would have mixed with the acetone during the dipping process.
  21. My great friend Harry Duran just produced his first YouTube video, prepping a Hoplophoneus skull found in the white river formation. One of the most spectacular prep vids I've ever seen. Figured you guys might find it as invigorating as I did
  22. Hello, I haven't been here for a long time so first of all, I want to say that it feels good to be back! I am a student in 11th grade and the pressures of school got my mind off of paleontology lately. But now came the opportunity I have been waiting for, I am learning in a class where we learn electricity, programming and biology. As part of our studying, we need to design and create a machine that solves a problem in the world. I would really like to make something in the filed of paleontology. But the first step is finding a suitable problem and research. So I am here to ask you what problems do you have in the field of paleontology? I was thinking that maybe I can find a way to make a more efficient tool for Fossil prep or for getting fossils from the filed to the lab safely. Obviously I can't solve problems like these entirely but maybe I can help a little bit. So please let me know any ides you have for me! By the way sorry if this isn't the right topic to share this post, I really wasn't sure where to post this.
  23. I have my own little fossil prep lab in my home (hubby let me convert one of our spare rooms into my own prep lab find someone who loves you as much as you love fossils and dirt!) with the compressor out in the garage. It's a 50L tank (approx. 13.2 gallons) and is a belt drive, which is slightly quieter than direct drive and cycles every 5-10min. I'm wanting to upgrade to possibly a 100L tank so there are less cycles, but also looking at the compressors that come with a "silent" motor. One of our dogs has weirdly become afraid of the compressor when it turns on (but to be fair, she's also afraid of the wind but loves the vacuum cleaner ) so I was looking at one. I was just wondering what others out there have done with regards to reducing the noise? If anyone out there is using the supposedly "silent" compressor, how do they compare? I have had a look on Google but of course, no one knows compressors like preparators
  24. Tales From the Shale

    Crassatella Consolidation

    I'm about to stabilize some invertebrate shells from Tennesse. I decided on using paraloid B-72. What ratio can I used to hold the fragile shells together, without causing any major visual alterations?
  25. fossilhunter21

    Nice way to hang up air scribes

    Hey everyone! Just thought I would share this thing I made to organize my air scribes and parts, but also to have a way to keep them off the dirty bench when not using them. I have been working at the Village Barn (a small company that repairs and sells, boots, saddles, shaps, bridles, ropes, whips, knives, etc.) as an apprentice for about a month or two, and finally decided to try to make something to store my scribes. I think it turned out pretty good, but if I were to make it for someone else I would have made it nicer. Thanks for looking! Cheers and Shalom, -Micah
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