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Hello, two days ago I made my first fossil preparation and I figured I should share it here. I know I probably made a ton of mistakes but I am happy with the result. It took me around about 2 hours and I would love to hear from you everything I have done wrong. here are before and after pictures, I did not write on the pictures what is before and what is after but I think you can figure it out, I know it's my first try but how bad can it be.

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone could give me advice on 1. air scribes you’ve found are good for fossil prep, and 2. All the parts needed for Scribes. I’m not quite sure all the parts needed for a scribe, I know you need the scribe itself and an air compressor, but I don’t know beyond that. P.s; the fossils I’ll be working on will be Green River fish, for the most part.

So I’m on the verge of moving to a new house where I’ll be fortunate enough to have my own space for a fossil prep lab (and display room, but that’s for another discussion). This space is a completely hollowed out husk, doesn’t even have lighting installed at the moment. To those of you with fossil prep labs of your own, knowing what you know now, if you were making a lab from the ground up, what things would you suggest? Not just big stuff, but little things. What kind of overhead lighting? Floor padding you found useful? At the moment I have an air compressor and a wall mounted dust collector, my goal is to at least get an air abrasion cabinet going. Am I better off putting something together from a bunch of different pieces of equipment or just spending the money on an all in one cabinet? I’m down to DIY stuff that’s not crazy technical when it makes sense, but also understand some things are better to spend a little more on. I’ve been primarily dealing with softer shale material, but occasionally deal with limestone as well. It’s a large question I know, but any help or piece of individual wisdom from those who do these things at home would be greatly appreciated.

Hi All I'm looking to get a rough work air scribe and have 3 options so far (let me know if you have any other to look at please!): PaleoTools Junior Jack ZOIC Paleotech T Rex Ken Mannion SQ This is to work on some large New Zealand concretions. Has anyone got any experience using any of these or ideally, have used multiple of them? Thanks so much! @RJB I think you have a Junior Jack, any experience with any of the others?

Hi! I have a couple of bones that I would love some help with. The first appears to be a metacarpal perhaps (?), about 2.5" long - of unknown origin. I received it in two pieces, with a bit of the surrounding matrix still intact. The matrix is rust-colored & grainy, almost similar to what you might find on a Spino tooth; although the fossil itself isn't colored like any spino specimen I've encountered, plus its a pretty small bone. Any thoughts on what it might be? Secondly, is a vertibra, perhaps caudal (?). Very small, roughly an inch squared. My assumption is that it is mammalian in origin. It's color is reminiscent of various bear, lion & canine examples I've worked with, but I would differ to the more knowledgable minds here. Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Hi! I was recently given a partial oreodont skull to prep & restore. The reconstruction went well, there was a very little excess rock to clean away & the pieces that I do have went together smoothly. BUT after it was assembled, certain areas of the skull began turning green. The skull fragments had been stored in a temperature & humidity controlled environment for a number of years before i began working on it. I'm wondering if a change in environments or being handled for the first time in a long time might have something to do with it? Has anyone experienced anything like this before? Much appreciated!!

Hello all! I found this pretty cool bryozoan back in July and I decided to give it a prep. Its really easy matrix to work with so its good practice for someone like me who’s only done a handful of preps. Like my past preparations, this will all be done manually using mainly safety pins. Fenestella sp. ? Middle Devonian Hamilton Group Moscow Formation Windom Shale DSR, Lebanon, NY Enjoy!

Does anyone know where there is some good fossil prepping jobs are?

hey does anyone have any good tips for prepping a fish nodule?

Greetings! I've been gone from the forum for a while because personal circumstance prevented me from prepping and showing off my finds, but due to a friend retiring and selling off his old setup to me I am now soon to be prepping again! My problem is with this Comco unit I got, I know water in the air line will put these temporarily out of commission in a heartbeat, so what all do I need to do to keep water from clumping my abrasive? I know some very basics, that I need an air drier and to keep the media dry, but what brands of air dryer work best for our preparators on the forum? How do store your media? Is there anything outside of these variables I'm missing? I'm going out tomorrow to look at supplies, so any recommendations would be appreciated.

The Paliotool ME-9100 arrived today and had the 1 1/2 engraver scribe on it. A quick change of connectors, a hose connected to my clean air source in the shop's paint booth and down to the pailoipaver part of the garden to get a couple of practice victims, I mean specimens. I won't talk about the first two except that they were pretty heavily fractured before I started in on them. Just know that they gave their best in the name of science and may they rest in peace. I picked a more robust one and stared in to clean up the center with better results although I don't think there should be a hole in the center. From this initial try found I will need better light and a support for the tool as it get to be tiresome after a session especially since I also worked today. Also magnification as I learn what detail to watch for. This one was happily returned to the paloipaver collection in the garden to live another day!

Hello all, I am setting up my comco dual tank micro blaster and I may be adding a second single tank micro blaster for three different blasters in my cabinet and I wanted to know what media others are running with their setup.

I recently completed my first fossil prep. Woohoo! As a novice, I did a lot of reading and research; trying to piece together exactly what I was supposed to do. How exactly I was supposed to "prep" the fossil and what that process entailed. While I found a wealth of information here on TFF, and other avenues, that information took a while for me to uncover and assemble into something useful. Not that the information itself wasn't useful, but uncovering a bit of info would often cause even more questions to arise. Consequently, it sometimes felt like taking 1 step forward but 3 steps back at the same time. So here is a novice guide, written by a novice, for other novices. It is intended for someone trying to figure out how to get started in Manual Fossil Preparation. The following information is what I feel is the basics of getting started in prep work based on my observations, research, and very limited experience. A quick guide to help get someone started who has been wondering what to do, but hasn't quite figured out where to start yet. Hopefully this will open up the wonderful world of fossil preparation for a few more people. What is Fossil Preparation? Fossil Preparation is the name given to the process of cleaning and repairing fossils. Making them more presentable for display, and revealing more diagnostic detail for study and research. Preparation at it's most basic form, is cleaning. Simply using a brush with water could be considered preparation. However, when most of us discuss fossil prep, it typically involves removing matrix. There are basically 3 ways to remove matrix from fossils. Using hand tools is generally referred to as manual preparation. Using power tools that require an air compressor, or electricity, is referred to as mechanical preparation. The third option is chemical preparation. Which, as the name implies, is using chemicals to prepare a fossil. Typically by dissolving matrix. Most people use one, two, or a combination of all three methods. I chose to focus on Manual Preparation. In my opinion, it is the cheapest, easiest, and the most forgiving form to start with. This is where most people tend to begin their prep journey. The process is pretty much the same with mechanical means. The more aggressive tools just make it go much faster. Which can lead to quicker results, but also quicker damage if done improperly. I figured it was better to cut my teeth on the cheaper, slower option, then upgrade tools if I liked it. I typically see “starter kit” recommendations for mechanical prep in the $800-$1000 USD range. You may get by with spending a little less, but it will still cost hundreds of dollars to get going. I spent less than $50 USD on my manual prep “starter kit” and you can get by with spending much less. Chemical prep can work well, and can be fairly cheap. A gallon of vinegar doesn't cost much... but it can VERY easily damage the fossil if you are not careful and don't know what you are doing. Proper precautions will need to be taken as well. Most chemicals used in fossil prep pose some sort of health hazard. Also, not all chemicals will work in all situations. What tools do you need to get started in Manual Prep? Anything that is sharp and can dig into the matrix that you want to remove. Seriously... Anything! There are people on TFF who started prepping with a wood nail, drywall screw, a push pin, and even a steak knife! That being said, there are definitely tools that will make life easier. Listed below are ones that I found the most helpful and personally used. Pin Vise* Magnification Lamp Dental picks Razor Knife** Brushs Sewing Needles Scribes (Sometimes referred to as Scribers) Scratch Awls Water *A word on Pin Vises... These are handy little gadgets, who's name is somewhat of a misnomer. While they are very useful for holding pins/needles and the like, they are typically sold as small hand drills, and can come with an assortment of micro drill bits. You will not need these drill bits for fossil prep, and if you can find a pin vise without the bits, it will usually cost less. They are sold by many hobby stores, or can be found online very easily. Simply put, they are handles with collets or chucks, used to hold very small things.You don't need a pin vise, but if you do purchase one, I would suggest a range of 0-.125 (1/8) inches or 0mm-3mm. This way you can hold the smallest of needles, and things up to the size of a standard rotary tool bit. Which is 1/8 inch or roughly 3mm. What you put in your pin vise will vary depending on what you are prepping, but I found that a scrib(er) or engraving tip for removing bulkier matrix, and a larger sewing needle worked rather well. They come in double ended forms, or you can usually find them cheap enough to buy more than one for quick switching between tips if you desire. **A word on Razor Knives... These are also known as hobby knives and are commonly referred to by a brand name that is rather “exact”. I had read people recommending to use these and how great they were to have around. I thought “Why use a razor blade on rock?” I didn't fully realize their use in fossil prep until I actually broke down and tried it. The tip of the knife can be used similar to a dental pick or needle and can slide between the layers of rock to pick it away or split it. I found that it could also be used to sculpt the matrix around the fossil. Sure it will dull quickly, but replacement blades are cheap, and it actually cut and planed the soft shale I was working with pretty well. I am sure there are more uses that I need to discover. Very handy and cheaply purchased. So... How do you actually prep? Well... You remove matrix without damaging the fossil. Things can happen, but this is the ultimate goal. First you use a larger tool to remove the bulk of the matrix. Depending on the size of excess matrix, you may be using a hammer and chisel for this, or you may use something like a scratch awl. My first prep was on a brachiopod valve so the scratch awl method worked well for me. I used the awl to pick and scratch at the matrix. Removing as much as I could, as quickly as I dared. Use a brush to get dust and debris out of your way. I used a small paint brush. Something that puffs air or even a little water can also work. Once you start to get closer to the fossil you will want to use something finer. When I got down fairly close, I switched over to a smaller scribe tip. When I was right next to the fossil I started using the sewing needle and dental picks. When you are right up against the fossil you will want to be very, very careful. Hopefully their will be a small gap between the matrix and the fossil. You can slide a dental pick, sewing needle, or tip of a razor blade in this gap and pick away the piece. Lifting it away from the fossil will hopefully cause it to flake off. If the matrix is more “sticky” you may need to painstakingly pick it off grain by grain. OK. Now you know how to prep, but what do you actually prep first? My advice is...Don't start with a nice, expensive, rare, or scientifically important specimen. Don't grab the one that you have just been dying to see revealed and start poking at it. There is a learning curve to prepping. The concept is simple, but in practice it is difficult. You WILL mess up. Especially on your first try. It happens. The needle slips and scratches. That piece of matrix that looked like it was going to break away cleanly took a piece of valve with it. Practice. Build up your skills and technique, then tackle that nice fossil. Your results will be much better and you will be happier with the outcome. Also, don't grab that big hash plate. Get something small that will give you a sense of completion in a few hours. A hash plate may take 10s or 100s of hours to complete. Starting with a small piece will give you a sense of completion and a much needed reward for your hard work and first try. If you collect fossils, I suggest getting something that is common to the area. Something that you might even currently pass over because they are everywhere. If you purchase your fossils, look for the same type of thing. Something that is common and not too expensive. Something that is a dime a dozen. Maybe even a fragment of a larger specimen that isn't worth much monetarily because it is broken. I would also suggest something that is relatively simple. Something with a lot of bones and pieces might throw you for a loop. Here are some Tips and Tricks that I learned just in my first few hours of prep work. Take your time! This is probably the most important tip I can give. Don't rush it. This process will take hours, not minutes. Even on something small like a brachiopod valve. I didn't time my first prep, but it took at least 4 hours. If you are tired, stop and give yourself a break. If you are frustrated with a piece that just doesn't seem to want to come off, move to another section to work on, and come back to it later. Rushing and frustrations cause mistakes. Magnification is very helpful. I would even say necessary. I used a magnification lamp. The magnification and light combo worked great for letting me see what I was doing. Especially when working close to the fossil. I have seen others who use those magnifying visors, or even a microscope. Keep your tools sharp. It sounds crazy I know. You are pushing these things into rock, and they will dull quickly, but they do work better when sharp. There is a noticeable use of less force when using a sharp tool. To borrow a philosophy from knife use... A sharp tool is a safe tool. Good lighting is a must. This goes hand in hand with magnification. If you can't see what you are doing, you can't prep. Wear proper safety equipment. Dust and flying debris is a real hazard. Even when using a tiny sewing needle. I would wear a dust mask and eye protection at the least. Gloves for protecting the hands from the errant dental pick/needle tip may come in handy as well. Know the morphology and/or anatomy of what you are trying to prep. You need to know what you are trying to dig out of the rock and what it looks like to avoid damaging the fossil or digging into the wrong place. The pieces and parts may not be where they are supposed to be, because of the nature of the fossilization process, but you need to have a good idea of what you are looking for. I wet the fossil from time to time. This isn't always an option depending on the fossil and matrix, but in my situation it helped wash away dust, bring out detail so I could better see what I was doing, and softened the matrix slightly, making it easier to prep. Stone is like wood, it has grain. Look for it and use it to your advantage. Picking and poking with the grain will typically yield better results that digging across or against it. Some things are not worth prepping. There I said it. Sometimes things will take way to long to prep, or are too delicate. You need to realize, and be ok with the fact, that some fossils, or part of a fossil, is better left alone. I'm sure I'll think of something else after posting... I hope this quick little guide will encourage other novices to try fossil prep. It is an enjoyable and rewarding aspect of the fossil obsession. Seeing something revealed for the first time in millions (sometimes hundreds of millions) of years has a distinctly wonderful feeling. Thanks to all those who helped get me going with their comments and suggestions in various threads. A special thanks to those that I PM'ed and asked questions of. You know who you are. Your knowledge and expertise were invaluable and greatly appreciated! Comments, corrections, and constructive criticisms are always welcome! Best of luck! Here is a link to my first prep that I referenced...

I've been looking for hesperornis fossils for a while, and recently, an acquaintance presented me with a challenge: He would send me a bag of broken up hesperornis verts for me to assemble. In return, I had to send him the biggest and best vert back. He also warned me it could be a real headache. I took the challenge. Lo and behold! I was presented with over 60 broken pieces, some of which were tiny and terribly fragmented (not shown in picture) Nonetheless, I googled for pictures of hesperornis verts and put what limited knowledge I had on fossil assembly into this task. After 18 hours, this is what I got: All in all, it was a tiring but satisfying job and now I can happily say I am the proud owner of a chain of associated hesperornis verts

I recently purchased another Huntonia oklahomae trilobite and am very pleased with it. However it does not have detailed eyes, I knew this when I purchased it but further inspection leads me to believe that the eyes are intact but have simply not been fully prepped. I am curious would it be possible to have the eyes professionally prepped to reveal the eye facets? If so what would be the risk of damaging the trilobite and approximately how much would it cost? Here is a picture, the trilobite does seem to be coated in some sort of clear coating, not sure if that makes a difference.

I'm a little confused. On the forums I have read a number of times (at least I thought I did) that Elmers school glue cannot be removed from a fossil, once it has dried. But just for the sake of experimenting, I coated a small rock in elmers glue and let it dry. After it sat in the warm sun for awhile and was good and dried, I put it in water. And almost immediately, the glue softened up and turned white and sticky again. I let it soak for awhile and then washed it off. The Elmers glue washed right off. Did I miss something? Or an I experimenting with the wrong kind of glue? I know Elmers glue is not very recommended for coating fossils, but I just got curious and wanted to experiment. :-) So if anybody can fill me in, that would be great!

I have recently begun my journey into fossil prep, i'm using a dremel electric engraver as it seemed to be the best cheap tool. I have several ammonites from Yorkshire within nodules - these are very hard in the centre and consist of pyritised sediment. It is taking a very long time with the dremel using tungsten-carbide point, so just asking for any advice on how is best to try and get through these very hard bits. Cheers in advance!!

I found this 'geodized snail' in a 25lb lot of kentucky geodes I got off of online years ago. I'm going to call it a geodized snail till one of you corrects me because thats how the seller referred to it in the post. Again, I haven't really prepped a fossil up to this point but I've gathered some information from this forum! From what I've gathered an airscribe would be a good way to start? Would it be safe to attempt to chisel off the larger chunk of matrix?

I've always been interested in fossils but I've never even thought of prepping some till I joined the forums. I have some plant dense rocks from washington that I think would be good practice, but I don't know the first step to this process. I have a dremel tool and hopefully I'm going out to get some new tips soon. It's shale as far as I can tell. Thanks for any and all advice, tips, steps, etc you guys are willing to give!

Hello everyone , this is my first post on here so go easy on me lol. I just bought this Eopachydiscus and im waiting on it in the mail. Is there anything i can do to clean it up a little ? or do you think i sjhould just leave it as is? thanks for your time ! p.s -its 12 inches across if you needed an idea of size.

Found this video on Youtube, and thought it was pretty ingenious. I like the DIY blaster box idea, as well. Thought it might be an option for those of us who cannot break the bank to do our own fossil prep. This has given me some ideas to try out. Hope this helps someone out. Good luck!

Hey guys! So about four years ago, someone sold me a really cheap batch of unprepped fossils they dug up in the US; which included a large piece of rib bone (or so the seller thought). I started prepping the 'rib', and thought it looked a little strange. It had a tendon running along the bottom; which seemed weird as it was supposed to be a rib. However, I was still pretty new to fossil prep/ID, and I trusted the seller's ID better than my own. I wound up setting it on the shelf for...a couple years. Fast forward to about a week ago. I was cleaning out my fossil storage 'area' and I came upon this bone again. I again thought it didn't look much like a rib, and decided to google different kinds of dinosaur spikes. After scrolling through all kinds of ankylosaurs, stegosaurs, triceratops, etc. I came upon Styracosaurus. It bore a passing resemblance to the parietal spike on its frill, and I figured I better start prepping it. After prepping it, I was blown away. Not only does the bone have a tendon attached, but there are all kinds of subtle curvatures you couldn't see with the layer of dirt that had covered it. The texture is very unusual too, and the bone is actually really thin! The tip comes to a point and gradually twists. It's hard to describe, so I've included a bunch of pictures. Anyway, after researching more about the sub-family Centrosaurinae, I came across Rubeosaurus and Einiosaurus; which both have spikes that are EXTREMELY similar to the bone I have. If this thing is a rib I'll eat my foot. Please let me know what you think! Any thoughts are much appreciated. -Lauren

Okay, I may not have been particularly thorough in my searching the forum, but I read a lot about pin vice's and rarely see any photos of them. I've accumulated enough material that I'd like to begin prepping&learning. I figure this will be one of those sideline hobbies whereby I can just pick and peck along in quiet solitude and hopefully fairly low expense as I build skills. Would those who use pin vices recommend or post a photo with some dimensions of their vices? I'm sure this is one of those situations where they can be too small or too big. Also, I have read about body piercing needles, hypodermic needles and sewing machine needles. Are there other such things I should be on the lookout for? Thank you, Kato

Picked this rock up while fishing the river over the summer. Since it's to bloody cold to do anything outside I figured I would clean it up and see what all the bits and pieces are. I think it will be pretty when it's done, although some of the fossils are eroded. It's like where's Waldo? See anything?

Hello everyone, I was wondering what tools people would recommend for fossil preparation, I am an absolute newbie in this area and am not familiar with what options there are out there but would really love to learn, so far I only have a pin vise which I have used on rough matrix removal but too scared to get close to the actual fossils. Thank you, Misha