Search the Community

Ive been taking plate hangers and rebending them to make them then fit onto my small fossil fish and even bought some copper wire to do the same thing. After hanging the last three fish and one of them falling down, I realized I didnt like that way of hanging them. Went online and found another way to hang these. I used 2 part epoxy to glue these onto the backs of the slab. Mind you, this would not work with the softer kind of rock like the split fish material. RB I layed the hanger onto some 2 part epoxy and covered with plastic and placed a flat rock on top. Days later they were as solid as can be! Here I am working my way around the electrical box but you can easily see the difference between the plate hanger type and the 2 part epoxy way of doing it.

I helped one of my friends make a hanger for his huge Ohio hash plate. I guestimate it weights 15 pounds. I learned this technique from Harry Pristis, and only slightly modified it from what he posted. I used two steel rods from Lowes, and two turnbuckles from Home Depot. The materials cost was about $10. I used a wire bending jig to create two W-shaped "hangers" as shown. This jig was one like this; costs about $5. I bent the end of the hangers over to hook onto the plate. I used two turnbuckles to attach the rods together- and screwed them tight. I probably could have used wire, but wanted to be sure it would never fall.

Harry Pristis pointed me to this method, so I thought I would show how it worked out. This only works with fossil that are fairly rectangular or square. A little deviation is okay, depending on what frame you choose. I used Nielsen sectional aluminum picture frames. https://www.nielsen-design.de/en-EN/products/frame-mouldings-aluminium/ They come in a wide variety of colors and styles. When I bought a frame, I told them the exact size of the slab, and they added a tiny bit when they cut it, so the slab would fit inside. So, check with the seller to see if you are ordering the exact size of the slab, or if you need to add a little length yourself so the frame sits inside. I recommend using a carpenters' square when measuring, it made it a lot easier. You need to make sure the frame you are ordering has enough overhang to cover up any potential gap between the slab and the frame. I chose the N95 frame which has about a 1/3 inch overhang. There are frames with an overhang closer to 1/2 inch if you have an irregular slab. You need to make sure the frame you get is deep enough for the thickness of the slab you get. The N95 frame is about 1" deep. Here is what the N95 frame looks like: There are steel angle brackets you use to screw the frame together; here is one of mine seen from the back: You add steel spring clips to press the slab against the front of the frame; I did not use glass: Now, you can use wire to hang the picture; I decided to use the nielsen security hanging system instead; this locks the picture against the wall. It can only be removed with a special tool. So, if someone bumps against it, it won't fall and shatter (or be stolen). They cost me about $4.25 for one set. HOWEVER, I will say removing them with the tool is really annoying, so if you use these I hope you won't need to take them off for a long time. Here are the brackets for my small one installed; it has one hanger up top, and the "lock" below. On my larger slab, I used two hanging brackets up top. So, here are how they look finished: I know we aren't supposed to post retailer's names here; if you want to know where I ordered the frames, send me a PM. These can be ordered at a lot of places online though. The prices for the small frame and all associated hardware, including the locking hangers was $15.30. The price for the larger frame and all associated hardware including locking hangers was $20.46. Shipping was $11.65. So far, I am very pleased with this method, and would like to use it again. Thanks to Harry for the tip!