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  1. Hello everyone ! I have stored these crabs a couple of years ago, while storing them they cracked (I suppose it is due to the internal humidity, they were found on a sea coast). I have the paraloid to apply them, but there are these cracks that I have to fill somehow so the paraloid doesn't leak. What material do you suggest as filling? And please know what percentage of acetone and paraloid is in the mixture? Thank you all ! greetings ! ps: the material that covers the crabs is hard sand EDIT: The reality is that I don't have much of an idea of how to prepare them, I was thinking of applying a layer of paraloid on one side, also filling in the cracks on something (the one where the broken crab can be seen, the place where it was exposed) and working on it on the other side.
  2. ToadCultist

    Paraloid assistance

    Been using paraloid for a while now but I've found that it dries way too quickly making it difficult to achieve a smooth and consistent finish. I've heard I could use isopropyl alcohol instead of acetone which takes longer to evaporate which could be useful in allowing me to cover my entire specimens with an even layer. I was wondering if anyone else has tried this and if so I was wondering if there was anything I needed to know before trying this. I also wanted to ask about concentrations, at the moment I'm using a roughly 2% mixture to improve contrast and minimise that dusty look you get on many fossils on some brachiopods I found in Morocco. Is this the correct concentration? I hope someone can provide some insight here. Thanks.
  3. I_gotta_rock

    Dumb question of the day

    I've been prepping my fossils manually for years. Glue is my friend and my worst enemy. For some of my delicate micros, one drop is more than enough to encase the tiny object AND glue it to whatever surface on which it rests. I've succeeded in gluing my fossils to silicone mats, pin points, and my fingers through plastic gloves after the glue ate through the gloves. Lately I've settled on wax paper and lots of rolling the piece around to keep it from pooling when the glue invariably rolls off the surface of less porous shells. It still sticks to the wax , but at least the wax peels off the paper and comes off with a bit of acetone and a delicate touch. There has to be a better way to do this with less permeable surfaces. What do you do to keep from gluing your pieces to the table?
  4. Hey folks, I'm looking to start some preservation work across my collection of fossils. With some solid Paraloid on its way in the mail, I'm thinking about mixing a couple of different batches (5%, 10%, 20%, etc.) But i'm wondering about the best containers to use for storage - what does everyone here prefer?
  5. Its been a minute since I've posted About 20 years ago while doing research online for fossil preservation I read somewhere that curators used "B-72" as adhesive and consolidate. so I did some digging and found a supplier that offered up free samples. I ordered some and after it arrived we were moving and it was packed away. the next couple of places I lived didn't afford me the space to do my hobbies and prep my fossils. Much time has passed and I am now able to haul out some of those fossils and work on them. I dug out the "B-72" I had ordered years before and started to look up info on how to properly mix my "B-72". Low and behold I didn't realize that there are other products that use the same handle "B-72". I now see its "Paraloid B-72" or "Butvar B-76" that are most commonly used for this purpose. So what's the difference?, and can this "Butvar B-72" be used? Is there or could there be any negative or undesirable effects from this stuff? will it ruin my fossils? If it can be used, does one dilute it the same as the other products? what W/V % should be mixed for consolidating vs using as an adhesive? Thanks for any input
  6. I've been recently looking into working with b72 for preserving and strengthening some of the pyrite and coal fossils I have. At the moment, I have a few questions regarding this topic: 1) For DFW folk, do you recommend any stores that sell b72 in the DFW area? For others, do you recommend any reputable online stores that ship it? 2) Should I store acetone in the original container I purchased it in? What is the safest part of the house to keep it? 3) What are any general tips/tricks you wish you knew before you started using b72? Feel free to answer as few of my questions as you'd like. All advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  7. Bill Hoddson

    How much Paraloid?

    I've read all kinds of articles and posts about MIXING Paraloid, but having never used it, I don't know how much TOTAL VOLUME to mix. I'm planning on preparing some brachiopods (some are broken) and a couple of medium (9-10") ammonites, which are fragile. I'll start with a 5% solution, since it seems best to start with a minimal amount, and work up if needed.
  8. I know paraloid has a wide variety of uses , but how well does it work for modern antlers for preservation? I'm going to be working on a few projects and was just curious how well it makes things in terms of durability for non fossilized things.
  9. ShinySpirals

    Is my prep plan any good?

    Hi all, I had a little trip to the Jurassic coast this weekend gone. During that time I found a lovely bit of iridescent ammonite poking out of a rock that had slipped down. There are a number of other ammonites in the rock too. I was wondering if anyone had advice/criticisms of my prep plan. I've not worked with iridescent ammonites before but understand them to be quite flaky. Step 1 Soak to reduce salt water content. I've given it a good soak in tap water last night. Not sure if more is required but on previous fossils from the coast I've never had any issues doing it that way. Step 2 10% paraloid solution on the exposed iridescent section. Step 3 Use a prepping pick to carefully remove the matrix and as I go, add further paraloid to freshly exposed ammonite. I want to avoid using my Dremel as I think the vibration could cause damage potentially. Do this sound ok to you all?
  10. Ginger0412

    Tell me about Paraloid.

    Hello everyone on the forums. I recently purchased a Spinosaurus Claw. That's why I want to protect fossils with Pararoid. But I know nothing about paraloids. Please tell me how to act.
  11. Hi all, I am finally getting ready to proceed with stabilizing the specimens I found in this trip: They are basically big sandstone steinkerns, now fully dry. They were found in ferrous sandstone concretions surrounded by sand. The matrix is soft , pieces can be broken off with fingers. I was advised to brush ammos with a PVA solution, but then I thought what if I use Paraloid instead? So the questions are as follows: 0. Is it worth it? 1. If so, what solution should I use? 2%? 5% or more? 2. How much will be required? (the biggest ammo is about 40 cm in diameter and 15 cm thick, 20+kg) 3. How and how many times to apply? With a brush? Once a day for several days in a row (as with PVA) or otherwise? 4. Do I need to cover the surface with a stronger solution afterwards? Thanks in advance! The matrix:
  12. Hello! I'm considering coating some of my delicate fossils in Paraloid (mixed with Acetone), to seal them and protect them for the future. How long would a typical, let's say, Green River fish take to decompose without such or similar techniques applied? I am very wary of doing irreversible acts to the rocks, so, how would one de-Paraloid a fossil, and would there be any damage? Just, any tips whatsoever would help, I'm feeling pretty inadequate about all this
  13. This may be familiar to most people who use paraloid dissolved in acetone. It is now familiar to me. Acetone trumps crazy glue. If you take a specimen held together in one place by crazy glue and submerge it in paraloid/acetone to consolidate it, the pieces that were held together by crazy glue will no longer be so. When you take your specimen out of the solution, the paraloid won’t have dried yet, and so you can’t count on paraloid’s adhesive qualities to compensate for the now-missing crazy glue. No big harm done, luckily. And now I know. I may have read this somewhere already on this forum, but there’s nothing like hands-on experience to remember a fact.
  14. Hi there, I picked up a couple of pieces of flaky shale with some bivalves and ammonites from Whitby a couple of days ago and want to use a paraloid-B72 solution to consolidate them. I’ve never done this before so am hoping someone can share some advice. At the moment I’ve got them soaking in water to remove any salt and in a day or two I’ll remove them to dry naturally. I want to do a bit of prep with some dental tools and then consolidate. My main question is do you think I should soak them in the paraloid or brush it on? In terms of dilution I want to buy a premixed bottle as I live in a small flat and want to avoid stinking of acetone as much as possible. The lowest concentration I can find is 5% wt/vol, would this be suitable for submersion/brushing on? If submerging, how deeply does the specimen need to preserved and can I submerge more than one specimen in one container? I can see myself having to buy a lot of solution for this... Sorry for all the questions, I’ve found it quite difficult to find clear answers online. Here are the pieces in question
  15. Jurassicz1

    How to preserve fossils?

    So how do u preserve fossils like shale/limestone and teeth? I heard something about paraloid? Where do i buy it? And i have washed some fossils with tap water when i started fossil hunting. And some say they can get discolored with sunlight How do i know that? I got a old trilo that now have alot of dots of matrix they were not dried in sunlight but the rooms light was turned on i used normal hand soap.
  16. I would like to know what brand of acetone is the best to use with paraloid b72, or if they are all the same. I would also like to know how to mix it, and what percentage of paraloid b72 to use. The fossils I find here are often very dry, brittle, and have cracks in them. I would like to use the paraloid solution to coat the surfaces.
  17. Dracarys

    Acetone soak

    Hi all. I have a piece of matrix that has been consolidated in paraloid. How long do I soak it in acetone to dissolve the consolidation? Thank you in advance.
  18. hi guys i need to stabilise quite a lot of sth stuff at the moment so am need of quite a bit of paraloid b-72 and acetone, maybe 200g paraloid and 500 g acetone, im not quite sure on what ratio to use so any help/advice would be great, in return, ask for any kid of fossil, i have quite a wide variety that i can offer
  19. Where do you guys buy your prep supplies? I've looked on line and have mixed feelings about some of the places that do offer this kind of stuff. I'm sure people here have their favorite sellers who won't rip a rookie like me off. Thanks!!!!
  20. I would like some paraloid B72 solution for protecting fragile fossils. I have found the paraloid B72 crystals for sale. What percent solution should be used for fossils, using acetone as a solvent? Is there any special way to mix it? Is there a way to safely store it?
  21. Dozens of articles written about stabilizing crumbly specimens but I have yet to find someone who can make me feel confident about a solution. I kayak rivers and find tusks and crumbly bones on the sandbars. They are wet or at least half wet from contact with the ground. The stabilizer must dry quickly, be reversible and work on a wet specimens. Currently I leave most of them where I find them because I cannot come up with a good solution.
  22. Found a paper today using Paraloid B-72. It’s a very useful read for any that prep
  23. triplefacepalm

    Vertebra Prep Questions

    I would like to try to prep a whale vertebra I found, but I have a few questions before diving into the preservation part. My questions come in 2 parts: Paraloid suggestions and matrix removal questions. Paraloid: For something this big, should I attempt to find a container and dunk the whole thing in the paraloid solution, or should I use a brush to go around the whole surface? Any suggestions for the ratio of paraloid to acetone? 1:10? 1:20? I've read different ratios thrown around, but I'm not sure what is best for which situation. Matrix removal: There is a large section of material on the under side of the vertebra that I'm unsure about removing. This rectangular section seems to be much harder than the rest of easily removable soil. Even though it transitions from reddish to tan in color, it is all the same hardness. Should I even attempt to remove it, or just leave it? It's clearly not part of the original vertebra, but I'm not sure what it even is. Thanks a lot for any help and/or suggestions! Fossil ID post with additional pictures:
  24. Yoda

    Sulphurous patch?

    So I was treating my collections from Betteshanger trip with Paraloid. Noticed that this specimen has this large soft yellow patch. Looks like some sort of sulphur compound? How should I treat this? Just cover the whole rock with Paraloid? Or should I remove this first?
  25. connorp

    Acetone additives

    I just received what I thought was pure acetone for mixing with Paraloid B72. However there is an additive of denatonium benzoate, which I assume is a required bittering agent to prevent consumption. Will this cause any issues?
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