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  1. Hello I would like to propose an exercise to you. I ask you to put some pictures of your fossils before preparation and after, also the time spent in that preparation and the tools used. The objective are to see the work of some members in the preparation of your fossils and have a ideia of the time spent in that piece... I gona start with a echinoid (Clypeaster found in december of 2016) I am preparing. Is not finished but it took me a several hours to get this. My preparation is made using a engraver Dremel. After removed from a block in the field: The first work: Next works:
  2. I'm thinking of investing in a quality work light to serve dual purpose identifying/prepping fossils and also in my woodworking adventures. Do ya'll use combo light/magnifying lamps? What works, what doesn't work? What spectrum works best for you? Any suggestions for best bang for the buck? Thanks
  3. Hello everyone! I found this fish in the Monterey Formation in California and have been unable to get the middle to pop off. I have zero experience preparing fossils of this type so I'm looking for some beginner advice on how to proceed without totally botching it. Thanks!
  4. Pouildu30

    Crinoid being prepared

    Hi everyone! I have recently acquired a crinoid from an old collection... I have never seen a crinoid of this type before but I think it comes from a famous fossil site maybe it comes from the usa.... I will soon prepare it but before that I need what exact species is that in order to have a mental image of the specimen and so avoid any damages while preparing it .... thanks for your help!
  5. David in Japan

    Field jacket mapping methods

    Hi preparators friends, I know that the method can be different according the preparator but can you explain us your method to map a jacket when you prep one. How do you proceed when multiple fossils are on each other in a jacket. What to do and don't. Please share with us your knowledge and experience.
  6. SteveE

    Crushing in a crusher

    I'm reading a 1960ish report on a formation near me (Bloomsburg). Among other interesting things it says "The most effective method of extracting the fossils from the claystone is by crushing in a crusher in which fine particles drop out so that they do not constantly undergo breakage." Can anyone elaborate on this process?
  7. Dracarys

    T rex tooth prep

    I have a chance to acquire a nice T rex tooth that is 3.5 inches in length. It was found in multiple pieces under plant roots and the pieces have all been reattached with cyanoacrylate and very stable. Who can I use as an expert prepper to fill in cracks, possbily, to bring it back to its glory? Thanks in advance
  8. Can coke be used to melt away Lyme Regis limestone?
  9. I'm looking at purchasing another Keichousaurus for preparation, and wondering what the experts' opinions are on which of these two would be easier to prep for a relative beginner like me. The first one looks entirely covered in shale, and the second seems to be a little more exposed. I have my Paasche air eraser that I was planning on using, although if someone recommends an acetic acid prep over the air abrasive for these specimens for one reason or another, I would love to hear suggestions. If the second one is more likely to be incomplete/damaged than the one under rock, I would prefer to stay away from that. But that being said, if it would truly be easier to work with the one that is already partially exposed, I am all for that!
  10. Recently found a decent ammonite at Lake Texoma. I wanted to reveal the specimen in its entirety, but this would require more preparation than I was used to - meaning it would require more than warm water and a soft brushing down. The preparation began with a tack hammer and a variety of nails. After the bulk of the situ was removed, I exchanged the soft taps of the hammer for the electric buzzing of a Dremel with a small carving tip, which seemed to work well for the remaining excavation. A little high quality wax was applied before display.
  11. I_gotta_rock

    Large Whale Bone to Stabilize

    I found this beautiful whale vertebra this weekend. It fell out of the cliff face just a few days ago and tumbled into the Potomac River (brackish?) just far enough for the waves at the tide line to gently lapped it clean. Gotta love it! It is currently soaking in clean water to get the salt and anything else out as much as I can, but I've never done anything this big before. I'm used to stabilizing little stuff and blocks of matrix that really just need a thick, hard outer shell. The little bones air dry quickly enough that I don't have to worry about moisture at the center, but this thing is 4 1/2 inches in diameter! I have both Paleobond and Paraloid on hand. Anyone have any practice at this?
  12. Hello everyone, I was wondering what tools people would recommend for fossil preparation, I am an absolute newbie in this area and am not familiar with what options there are out there but would really love to learn, so far I only have a pin vise which I have used on rough matrix removal but too scared to get close to the actual fossils. Thank you, Misha
  13. Hi all, I have an ammonite specimen from Folkestone, UK that is locked in a phosphate nodule. Is there any way for it to be removed? Thanks, Jay
  14. Scottnokes2015

    Trilobite from Udig, Utah

    Hi everyone. I'm new to preparing and don't have the money to get the proper equipment. However, I do have the Harbor freight Air eraser I was recommended by several b people on here. Anyway, I have one of those tiny to segment Trilobite who name I forget for the minute. The matrix he was in broke up, so I've mounted it to another piece of same udig shale before I start work on the Trilobite so I don't have it break n in half. There's a small Gap in the matrix because it's not a perfect fit, but Very close. The glue is holding well and clear , but what can I use as filler for the tiny Gap? Can I mix clear glue with some sanded matrix mixed in to make a filler? Thanks everyone
  15. Hello everyone, A geologist friend of mine roped me into his love of all things ancient, so here I am new to the fossils, and new to the Fossil Forum. I received my first Green River fish slab yesterday and spent most of the day on and off working off the layers with dental scaler that I've used for in the past for Roman coins. Must say that this matrix is much easier than the stuff encrusted to the coins! So far I'm pretty happy with the progress, but am looking for advice on how far to take this so that I don't overwork the piece. Here are a couple of photos of the progress. Note the series of three stages use lighting from the top to highlight the 3D effect of the specimen. The other photo uses light from the lower left to show a more natural visual look if you just look at it laying on the table. I believe I still have a lot of detail work taking off sediment between the bones and along the spine, etc. Any advice on around the head and eye socket, the border? How about surface finishing? If the slab is dampened, the fish stands out more, so would a mat clear coat of something be a reasonable finish, or should I leave it alone? I believe I read that a 20% solution of white glue in water might create a good effect. Any experience with that? Again, there seem to be many schools of thought. Thanks in advance for your help. Also, I believe this is a Knightia, but wouldn't mind confirmation from someone in the know. The fish is almost exactly 4" head to tail. Again, thanks.
  16. Hey, I'm just starting out and I wanted to know, what preparation tools and tactics will work best for removing limestone without damaging the specimen? (Preferably low budget) I also don't have a lot of workspace since I'm just taking a crack at this legitamate, fine-detail stuff for the first time; and after some research on air scribes, abrasives, and erasers, I realize they are much too costly and the whole air system and workbox takes up a lot of room I don't have. So is there anything you all could recommend for me?
  17. I'm a fairly novice preparator and I was wondering if some of you more experienced folks could help me out a bit. I am working on a dipleura that unfortunately broke apart upon extraction. Some fragments of the pygidium were lost. I have the imprint and was considering casting the missing parts in plaster or something ideally reversible. My goal is to turn this fossil into a nice display piece. There are also some large voids in the matrix I would like to fill in. I've never done anything of this sort to a fossil before and I was hoping for some guidance on materials, techniques, etc. I have attached a couple of photos of the areas I would like to repair.
  18. DanJeavs

    Whitby Hildoceras Prep

    A little Hildoceras I picked up recently from Saltwick Bay in Whitby. Unfortunately I didn’t take any before pictures to show. All that was showing was the top of the keel and a small portion of the outer whorl. It’s be no means finished yet, but thought people might enjoy the process so far. Iv prepped out some of the matrix underneath to give the ammonite a floating effect.
  19. Hi! I recently posted about two weeks ago asking for techniques on repairing a 6' megalodon tooth. I only had about 60% of the tooth to work with, so my intent was to recreate the missing section. I received helpful feedback and support from fossil forum members, and I've finally taken a crack at it. I am pretty excited with how it's coming along, so thought I'd share my progress. Aside from a shattered triceratops rib, this is the only fossil repair I've ever done. I'm still finishing up the back half of the tooth as well as adding more detail to the front (trying to better hide the split). Please let me know what you think and any further advice you may have! Also, in case anyone is interested, the materials I have used so far are: Metal repair epoxy Wood repair epoxy Acrylic paint Clear gloss top-coat Thumb-tack Thanks!! Lauren
  20. elcoincoin

    Finished this summer score

    Took some time to be done, but it was more about alot of small operations, than endless hours of pneumatic pen. All in all, the more time spent was with the dremel polishing the matrix. Before : Only operation before the picture was an emergency glueing on the field. Some time it s better to do this on the field, sometimes you better packed the different part of the puzzle home, clean them and glue them home. This time it was on the field. Then a bit of small chisel and a bit of pneumatic pen. Then a lot of dremel that will give the grey aspect to the matrix Then a bit of scalpel to remove a bit of matrix from the caudal spine. Then a bit of cutter to save one of the eodal' eyes from the counterpart. Then a bit of glue to set the said eye. And here we are :
  21. From the album: La Dominelais / La Noe Blanche - automnal prep - a few more to join the trilo army

    Association of Ectillaenus giganteus and Eodalmanitina Sp - before preparation (except it has been glued on the field.
  22. Kane

    Greenops fourplex

    Back at the end of June at our spot in the Thedford area a small group of us were busy making benches and unlocking slabs from the Widder Formation. Once we got to splitting, one lucky split resulted in finding three Greenops widderensis on a single plate. With flying genal spines and lappets on an already delicate and thin-skinned species, it was nothing short of miraculous that I was able to get it to the car with no damage. Right away I applied cyanoacrylate, and then it started to rain. This is how it looked in the field:
  23. sseth

    Platecarpus skull Finished 2

    From the album: Platecarpus start to finish

    Platecarpus ptychodon skull finished. (Platecarpus ptychodon Arambourg 1954), Oued Zem, Morocco, Cretaceous: 146-65 MYO

    © Seth Sorensen

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