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I have dremel 3000 but I dont know if is good to prepare a short size fossil like this Ammonite

I got a fish fossil, which is the first I've ever done. They had lines marked and was wanting to ask if I may have missed something? There was 2 line marks below and 3 on top that would guess was for fins. But the fish seemed to stop way before any fins? There is a raised line bump near the back of the spine(back where tail fin should be), is it a second fish maybe? or did I mess up?

I found a piece of petrified wood, ammonites , some clam fossils, belemnites and other bits and bobs on the Yorkshire coast but do I need to do something to preserve them? Or do I just leave them how they are?

Recently found this rock on a trip to the Keasey formation near Mist Oregon. There are several crinoid stars visible on the outside of the stone and some segmented sections visible as well. Seems like they run throughout the rock. I found this on the ground by the stream and water erosion did a bit of work on the outside. Really curious and excited about what might be inside but no idea how to start and scared to ruin it. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

Hello Everyone, I'm relatively knew to fossils and preparation. I ended up finding a large piece of petrified wood over the weekend (about 200lbs) and was curious what the best way to clean it would be. I used some chisels, a delicate touch with a hammer, and a pressure washer to remove the obvious bits of clay. What would be the best way to proceed?

I dont know how to prepare this Ammonite (I have never done this before) so I want to know what tools can be used and stuff like that :p

Hi all, to start -- I'm a beginner in this so excuse me if I ask things that may be obvious. I was thinking about ways to improve this ammonite, but I wasn't sure what would be the best way forward. Please let me know your ideas and what would you do to make it better. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I found this mako tooth awhile back and I’m looking for guidance on the best way to remove the matrix off the tooth. What would you recommend? I’ve been able to remove some with just water and my fingernail, but the rest seems to be much tougher. Any suggestions would be great!

Hello, I wanted to share my progress on this green river fm. Diplomystus dentatus that I've been working on prepping. It's my first attempt at fossil prep and I've just been using the tool provided by the prep kit, which is a blunt needle-like thing. I'm finding it quite enjoyable even though it's taking a while and my hands/fingers ache after a couple hours from all the pressure! I'm also really learning a lot about a fossil that I didn't really pay attention to previously. So far I've roughly uncovered most of the body, and I've ordered some modeling knives to do some finer prep, especially around the head which I found flakes VERY easily. If anyone has any other suggestions I would like to hear them. Also, if I were to get more involved in fossil prep, what would be next? Would I get an air scribe? What sorts of unprepped material should I work on and where can I get it?

wow so much information here. I wanted some info on how to do better fossil preparation. But I read a whole story about a bird that was cleaned. With x ray and super microscope. I myself thought I had a good tool but the needle that cleaned the bird it was so thin. Although I am very happy with my stuff, I do experience some difficulties. The fossil fish of Scotland slate are not so solid. i have a little one now but the slate is very hard. and the fossil soft. I damage unnecessarily I think. what do i need to make it even more fun? i have 3x zoom goggles dnsons.co.uk airpen. I ordered a UV lamp, maybe that will work well. i also tried sulfuric acid 97% (which works very well on pyrite by the way) The difficulties I experience are. can't see how the fossil is going. While scraping I hardly see any color difference of bone or matix. Stone is hard fossil softer. thank you in advance

My name is Jerome and I'm a newcomer I would like to have an opinion on this trilobite that I found in a yard sale… (no info available on location) The trilobite was stored outside and was covered with dirt/dust. When I tried to clean it with water I obviously triggered a kind of chemical reaction and white spots appeared. How can I get rid of these white stains? Thanks in advance

Hi everybody, Last year I found this awesome chunk of whale bone and I am getting enough time on my hands to prepare it. I think I need to consolidate the tiny cracks before I try to clean off the sand and dust. But I'd like to consult the experts before I proceed. I used to have Paleobond but that ran out and I don't know what to get for use on this big guy. Any thoughts or comments appreciated!

I am located in Central New Mexico. I have picked up several of what I believe to be nodules, fully calcified. A lot of what I’m seeming are the teeny tiny beads of crystals all grouped together, I hope you can see the detail. I am very new and I am trying to learn the best way to prepare and clean them. The specimens I seem to find are coated in multiple layers of various sediment, making identification difficult. I believe I see sutures around the circumference of the nodule, in a spiral-ish pattern, the sutures seem to have a zipper/teeth look to them. When I try to open them, carefully, slowly….they just chip away. I didn’t want to try anymore to I hopefully don’t do more damage. I need……..help.

Any tips on preserving this specimen I found over the weekend? I'm happy with the aboral side but I'd like to uniformly remove a majority of the sediment below, which is loose enough to scratch off with a fingernail. However, avoiding damage to the fossil is obviously of utmost concern... is there something I can safely apply to the fossil surface to prevent stress cracking?

Mostly sandstone from clallam formation WA. The fossils are flaky and the sand stone has many cracks threatening to break into pieces. I know it’s not the prettiest, but I was hoping to stabilize the matrix a bit as well as some of the more preserved shells to expose and highlight them a bit

During the past few years, I have tried several methods of fossil preparation, including manual prepping with needles and pin vises as well as some chemical techniques. Earlier this year, I decided to try pneumatic scribes and I purchased two of the Hardy Winkler models. Before deciding on these two scribes, I was informed by the helpful comments of others on the Forum. I am now submitting my comments in the hope of adding to those reviews. Since scribes must be selected with specific purposes in mind, I will state that I am a hobbyist (not a professional) and collect relatively small fossils (ranging from couple of millimeters to a few centimeters in their longest dimensions). Also, most of the fossils I find are partially embedded in limestones, mudstones, shales, and phosphate nodules. I do nearly all of my preparation under a stereo microscope. Since my fossils are mostly small, I wanted scribes with a range of uses from very fine micro work up to moderate matrix removal. I also wanted scribes that impart minimal vibration to protect delicate fossils (as well as my own nerves and blood vessels). Finally, I wanted scribes that operate at relatively low air pressures and air volumes so I would not have to replace my 30-year-old compressor. Based on reviews in the Forum (and other sources), I decided to try the highly-adjustable HW-322 and HW-70. Skipping to the punch line, I am very happy with both scribes. They complement each other well enough to cover the entire range of my needs. For those who may be considering these scribes, the following comments will provide some pros and cons of the two models. HW-322. This scribe operates with a pointed chisel that floats in a removable head. The chisel is driven by a piston. The movement of the piston is affected by air pressure from an external regulator, a tuning adjustment in the body of the device, the actions of o-rings, and a spring. Here is an overview of how the tool’s action can be adjusted to fit the work: 1. The HW-322 typically comes with two different springs: A soft spring and a hard spring. Use the soft spring for intricate cleaning of delicate fossils. Switch to the hard spring for chiseling away somewhat larger amounts of matrix. 2. Two types of pointed 1.3 mm needles are available: Use the fine-tip needle for delicate work. Use the standard needle for less-fine uses. 3. You can vary the air pressure with the supplied regulator: For fine work with the soft spring, you can set the pressure anywhere in the range of about 0.5-1.4 bar (7-20 psi). For less-fine work with the hard spring, you can operate in the range of 0.9-1.8 bar (13-26 psi). At 1.0 bar of pressure, air consumption with the soft spring is about 17 liters per minute (0.6 cfm). With the hard spring at 1.4 bar of pressure, air consumption is about 20 liters per minute (0.7 cfm). 4. The twist-to-tune feature in the body adjusts the depth of stroke through a range of movement from a nearly imperceptible vibration of the needle to full engagement of the needle with the piston. With all of these adjustments, the tool can be configured for a range of work so broad that it’s almost like two or more scribes in one. With the soft spring and fine needle, this tool handles all of my needs for ultra-fine work. With the hard spring and standard needle, I can use the tool will remove matrix to a depth of a few millimeters over areas of a few square centimeters. Negatives/cons. As with all tools, there are some limitations. My main complaint relates to the difficulty of finding consistent technical information and instructions for the user. Some retailers offer their own pdf summary sheets and videos with use and care tips; however, there are occasional discrepancies in the advice, and I have yet to find a definitive user’s manual from the actual manufacturer. As another negative, the scribe is designed to be used only in a forward bulldozing motion. Sweeping the scribe from side to side is discouraged because side movement may cause abnormal wear to the nylon head bushing. This means you may not be able to use the scribe to sweep away tool tool marks (I am currently removing my scribe marks manually, with a hobby-type razor tool). Finally, due to limited manufacturing, retailers are often out of stock, and waiting lists are sometimes long. Most retailers sell the HW-322 in a package with one tip, both springs, a 0-4 bar air regulator with fittings, and an air hose. Mine came with European fittings, so I had to order a global-style high-flow quick connect socket (which I could not get at the local hardware stores). HW-70. The HW-70 can be adjusted for a range of uses from borderline-fine work to moderate matrix removal. Adjustments in the action of the tool are affected by the many needle sizes/styles and by varying the air pressure from the regulator, as follows: 1. Three sizes of pointed heads/needles are available (1.3 mm, 2.0 mm, and 3.0 mm). In addition, some needles are also available with chisel or hybrid tips. With the 1.3 mm pointed tip, it is possible to work relatively close to many fossils. With the larger needles in different styles, you can remove rather significant amounts of matrix in short order. 2. The overall aggressiveness of the tool is controlled by adjusting the operating pressure at the regulator. The HW-70 works well at a range of pressures from about 0.3-2.0 bar (4-29 psi). Air consumption at 2 bar is about 20 liters per minute (0.7 cfm). At low pressures with the thinnest needle, the HW-70 seems to pick up where the HW-322 leaves off. Although I always do my finish work with the HW-322, I’m happy I have the HW-70 for quicker matrix removal in the harder and larger rocks. Negatives/cons. On the negative side, the same cons apply as already mentioned for the HW-322: A disappointing lack of documentation from the manufacturer, the inability to use the scribe in a side-to-side sweeping motion, and limited availability. Concluding comments. If you are looking for high-quality scribes with minimal air supply requirements, one or both of these models may be worth considering. Before buying any scribe, I recommend you search for other reviews on this Forum. When searching for reviews, keep in mind that some members include the dash in the model numbers and others do not. Therefore, you may find more reviews if you try separate searches for HW-322 and HW322. Also try separate searches for HW-70 and HW70. If you are new to preparation work, you’ll also want to study the many informative forum posts regarding fossil repair, consolidation, and general prepping techniques. It may be worth noting that I decided to try pneumatic scribes because I tend to damage fossils when I push too hard with manual pin vises and needles. I do not have this problem with pneumatic scribes because the scribes do all the work and remove matrix with very little pushing. In fact, the HW-322 will often remove the last remaining bits of matrix from delicate fossils when the tool is held perfectly still with the needle just barely touching the matrix. There are some items you’ll need that are not provided by the manufacturer, including an air compressor, an air filter, a hose from the compressor to the filter, and all of the fittings between the compressor and the quick-connect fitting that is provided with the regulator. If you are working on small fossils, you will also benefit greatly from a stereo microscope. All of this can be expensive (not bass-boat expensive, but it may still require some time to save up). As with any scribe, the standard warnings apply: wear eye protection (unless your eyes are pressed against a pair of microscope lenses), wear respiratory protection such as a NIOSH-approved N-95 or P-100 respirator as protection against crystalline silica ( https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/silica/ ), and if you use a scribe frequently or in cold environments be sure to learn about hand-arm vibration syndrome ( https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/ergonomics/default.html#vib ). Best wishes.

I purchased this Dinosaur egg and now I want to prep it a little. I don't have an airscribe, is there another way to remove the thin layer of matrix without damaging the eggshell or shell structure?

Hi I’ve been wondering for a while if some fossil preparation tools cause nerve damage. I have been prepping for a for years now mainly with air scribes and haven’t noticed a difference. However a few people say that the vibration coming from the tools can cause nerve damage in the future. Is this true? Thanks for any information.

Hi, I’ve been wanting to prep some Morrison formation material for a while now however I’ve never prepped Morrison stuff. I have prepped many Hell creek and lance creek fossils. So what are the best tooth for preparing Morrison formation material specifically things like sauropod and theropod vertebrae’s? Thanks!

Hi all! I've just found this curious stone on the Lyme Regis beach, during a low tide, between some other rocks. I was trying to crack it open but I had to stop as it looked to be containing something more delicate. I'm sorry for the poor quality of the photos. It has a thin layer of grey stone on the top part, and underneath it there is a golden patina that reflects the light mixed with a brownish sort of varnish (similar to when fossilised bones are prepped, that sort of texture). It has a circle of a different colour on one of the shorter side that reminds me of a sectioned bone or similar. Now, do you think is worth to prep this stone? Is it even a fossilised something? If so, how would you prep this? Many thanks, I know this is a tricky one... at least for me. Cheers.

Hello all I recently got permission from my family to build a preparation room, so I'm getting some tools to finally start preparing fossils. I've got a few fossils from my own hunts that I can start practicing on, but those are all in extremely hard, sticky rocks, and often badly preserved. I would however like to get some fossils from other locations to practice different techniques, mainly with air abrasion and to get a feel with the preparation of a wild variation of fossils. I picked some fossils (mainly from the USA), that aren't too complex I think, but please correct me if I'm wrong. - Flexicalymene or other trilobites from that are fit to prep with a combination of air abrasion and scribes, preferably some from Ohio, New York, since I think those rocks aren't too hard? - 18 inch Green River fish - White River formation fossils - Hell Creek/Lance... bones, not sure how hard these are, but stuff like this really interests me. I would prefer a couple of partials/broken specimens to practice on, and then a few nice ones to prepare after some first practice. Here are some things I'm offering in return. I will/can probably offer more, but here is at least some of the stuff I can trade. 1: Big (30 cm) vertebra from the Ouled Abdoun location in Morocco. 2 small parts glued back 2: Rooted Carcharodontosaurid tooth from the Kem Kem beds in Morocco, just shy of 10 cm (4 inch). Looks all natural to me. 3: Chilotherium jaw with associated 'tusk'. 4: Chemically prepared Keichousaurus. Very large one (skeleton measures over 30 cm). Slab looks unbroken and all natural. Hope someone can help me

Hello, forgive me if this question has already been answered. I found dozens of crinoids this last fall. They look great when wet, but when they dry they're dull and dirty looking. I've tried soaking them in soapy water and scrubbing with a toothbrush, but nothing spruces them up. I've also tried using vinegar given that the limestone doesn't fizzle, but it destroys the crinoid. Is there anything I can do to brighten or clean these things? The last two pictures are the crinoids when wet and the first is dry. Thanks for the help.

Hello all, Me and my friend would like to start practicing chemical preparation. Neither of us have done that before. We were mainly wondering what types of commercially available fossils are fit to practice this on? I know of limestone fossils like Keichousaurus, but that seems quite expensive for a first try. Neither of us lives close enough to a fossil location to reallistically obtain this way. So I tried to make a list of items that are not too hard to find unprepared. My friend has quite a bit of experience with working with chemicals, but doesn't know what chemicals would work with what rocks. It has also never been my strong side. Do you think chemical preparation would work on any of these fossils? -Schlaifhausen ammonites blocks -Khouribga fossils (don't think I've ever seen chemical preparation on this) -Spirifers from Barvaux, Belgium (been here a couple of times so have quite a few of those) Would love to hear more suggestions if anyone has any? We do not have the room to afford the other tools for mechanical prep, hence why we want to try it this way.

Hi all! Could you please share your experience with using hydrogen peroxide for disintegrating regular clay? Looking to find small, but not tiny fossils - teeth, gastropods and such - not smaller than a couple mm, most likely 3-10mm. What % would I need? Here we can buy any from 3 to 37%. Which will be enough? Which will be safe to use at home? Should I just plunge clay into peroxide and if so, for how long? How small should the chunks be? Anything I should be aware of? Thanks in advance!

Hello, I haven't been here for a long time so first of all, I want to say that it feels good to be back! I am a student in 11th grade and the pressures of school got my mind off of paleontology lately. But now came the opportunity I have been waiting for, I am learning in a class where we learn electricity, programming and biology. As part of our studying, we need to design and create a machine that solves a problem in the world. I would really like to make something in the filed of paleontology. But the first step is finding a suitable problem and research. So I am here to ask you what problems do you have in the field of paleontology? I was thinking that maybe I can find a way to make a more efficient tool for Fossil prep or for getting fossils from the filed to the lab safely. Obviously I can't solve problems like these entirely but maybe I can help a little bit. So please let me know any ides you have for me! By the way sorry if this isn't the right topic to share this post, I really wasn't sure where to post this.