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I got a fish fossil, which is the first I've ever done. They had lines marked and was wanting to ask if I may have missed something? There was 2 line marks below and 3 on top that would guess was for fins. But the fish seemed to stop way before any fins? There is a raised line bump near the back of the spine(back where tail fin should be), is it a second fish maybe? or did I mess up?

Hi! Just got this fossil fish from a trusted source. He didn’t know much about the fossil more then that’s it’s a stichocentrus from Lebanon. I’m having a hard time finding out if this is rare on the market. I bought it because I think it’s unique and cool. It’s prepared with resin and acid transfer which i believe is mostly used in science when studying fossils. Do anybody know anything about it? best regards Emil!

I got my dremel and I want to prep the Ammonite in the picture. Can someone give me some advice or tip to use the tool and for that Ammonite? I will practice first with some Ammonite fragments. The matrix is kinda soft and weak.

I have dremel 3000 but I dont know if is good to prepare a short size fossil like this Ammonite

I found a piece of petrified wood, ammonites , some clam fossils, belemnites and other bits and bobs on the Yorkshire coast but do I need to do something to preserve them? Or do I just leave them how they are?

Recently found this rock on a trip to the Keasey formation near Mist Oregon. There are several crinoid stars visible on the outside of the stone and some segmented sections visible as well. Seems like they run throughout the rock. I found this on the ground by the stream and water erosion did a bit of work on the outside. Really curious and excited about what might be inside but no idea how to start and scared to ruin it. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

Hello Everyone, I'm relatively knew to fossils and preparation. I ended up finding a large piece of petrified wood over the weekend (about 200lbs) and was curious what the best way to clean it would be. I used some chisels, a delicate touch with a hammer, and a pressure washer to remove the obvious bits of clay. What would be the best way to proceed?

Hi all, to start -- I'm a beginner in this so excuse me if I ask things that may be obvious. I was thinking about ways to improve this ammonite, but I wasn't sure what would be the best way forward. Please let me know your ideas and what would you do to make it better. Thanks!

I dont know how to prepare this Ammonite (I have never done this before) so I want to know what tools can be used and stuff like that :p

Hi everyone, I found this mako tooth awhile back and I’m looking for guidance on the best way to remove the matrix off the tooth. What would you recommend? I’ve been able to remove some with just water and my fingernail, but the rest seems to be much tougher. Any suggestions would be great!

Hello, I wanted to share my progress on this green river fm. Diplomystus dentatus that I've been working on prepping. It's my first attempt at fossil prep and I've just been using the tool provided by the prep kit, which is a blunt needle-like thing. I'm finding it quite enjoyable even though it's taking a while and my hands/fingers ache after a couple hours from all the pressure! I'm also really learning a lot about a fossil that I didn't really pay attention to previously. So far I've roughly uncovered most of the body, and I've ordered some modeling knives to do some finer prep, especially around the head which I found flakes VERY easily. If anyone has any other suggestions I would like to hear them. Also, if I were to get more involved in fossil prep, what would be next? Would I get an air scribe? What sorts of unprepped material should I work on and where can I get it?

I've been recently looking into working with b72 for preserving and strengthening some of the pyrite and coal fossils I have. At the moment, I have a few questions regarding this topic: 1) For DFW folk, do you recommend any stores that sell b72 in the DFW area? For others, do you recommend any reputable online stores that ship it? 2) Should I store acetone in the original container I purchased it in? What is the safest part of the house to keep it? 3) What are any general tips/tricks you wish you knew before you started using b72? Feel free to answer as few of my questions as you'd like. All advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

wow so much information here. I wanted some info on how to do better fossil preparation. But I read a whole story about a bird that was cleaned. With x ray and super microscope. I myself thought I had a good tool but the needle that cleaned the bird it was so thin. Although I am very happy with my stuff, I do experience some difficulties. The fossil fish of Scotland slate are not so solid. i have a little one now but the slate is very hard. and the fossil soft. I damage unnecessarily I think. what do i need to make it even more fun? i have 3x zoom goggles dnsons.co.uk airpen. I ordered a UV lamp, maybe that will work well. i also tried sulfuric acid 97% (which works very well on pyrite by the way) The difficulties I experience are. can't see how the fossil is going. While scraping I hardly see any color difference of bone or matix. Stone is hard fossil softer. thank you in advance

Hi everybody, Last year I found this awesome chunk of whale bone and I am getting enough time on my hands to prepare it. I think I need to consolidate the tiny cracks before I try to clean off the sand and dust. But I'd like to consult the experts before I proceed. I used to have Paleobond but that ran out and I don't know what to get for use on this big guy. Any thoughts or comments appreciated!

My name is Jerome and I'm a newcomer I would like to have an opinion on this trilobite that I found in a yard sale… (no info available on location) The trilobite was stored outside and was covered with dirt/dust. When I tried to clean it with water I obviously triggered a kind of chemical reaction and white spots appeared. How can I get rid of these white stains? Thanks in advance

Back during an April trip to the Widder Formation (Mid-Devonian), I came upon a rather sizeable placoderm. It is very likely the arthrodire, Protitanichthys sp., although it is a bit of wastebasket taxon, but new research is underway. It was pretty much stuck in this rock, and it was only going to come out the hard way. I collected every little bit I could find from that dirty, messy bench, including the impression. Here is the in situ photo:

I am located in Central New Mexico. I have picked up several of what I believe to be nodules, fully calcified. A lot of what I’m seeming are the teeny tiny beads of crystals all grouped together, I hope you can see the detail. I am very new and I am trying to learn the best way to prepare and clean them. The specimens I seem to find are coated in multiple layers of various sediment, making identification difficult. I believe I see sutures around the circumference of the nodule, in a spiral-ish pattern, the sutures seem to have a zipper/teeth look to them. When I try to open them, carefully, slowly….they just chip away. I didn’t want to try anymore to I hopefully don’t do more damage. I need……..help.

Any tips on preserving this specimen I found over the weekend? I'm happy with the aboral side but I'd like to uniformly remove a majority of the sediment below, which is loose enough to scratch off with a fingernail. However, avoiding damage to the fossil is obviously of utmost concern... is there something I can safely apply to the fossil surface to prevent stress cracking?

Mostly sandstone from clallam formation WA. The fossils are flaky and the sand stone has many cracks threatening to break into pieces. I know it’s not the prettiest, but I was hoping to stabilize the matrix a bit as well as some of the more preserved shells to expose and highlight them a bit

I recently completed my first fossil prep. Woohoo! As a novice, I did a lot of reading and research; trying to piece together exactly what I was supposed to do. How exactly I was supposed to "prep" the fossil and what that process entailed. While I found a wealth of information here on TFF, and other avenues, that information took a while for me to uncover and assemble into something useful. Not that the information itself wasn't useful, but uncovering a bit of info would often cause even more questions to arise. Consequently, it sometimes felt like taking 1 step forward but 3 steps back at the same time. So here is a novice guide, written by a novice, for other novices. It is intended for someone trying to figure out how to get started in Manual Fossil Preparation. The following information is what I feel is the basics of getting started in prep work based on my observations, research, and very limited experience. A quick guide to help get someone started who has been wondering what to do, but hasn't quite figured out where to start yet. Hopefully this will open up the wonderful world of fossil preparation for a few more people. What is Fossil Preparation? Fossil Preparation is the name given to the process of cleaning and repairing fossils. Making them more presentable for display, and revealing more diagnostic detail for study and research. Preparation at it's most basic form, is cleaning. Simply using a brush with water could be considered preparation. However, when most of us discuss fossil prep, it typically involves removing matrix. There are basically 3 ways to remove matrix from fossils. Using hand tools is generally referred to as manual preparation. Using power tools that require an air compressor, or electricity, is referred to as mechanical preparation. The third option is chemical preparation. Which, as the name implies, is using chemicals to prepare a fossil. Typically by dissolving matrix. Most people use one, two, or a combination of all three methods. I chose to focus on Manual Preparation. In my opinion, it is the cheapest, easiest, and the most forgiving form to start with. This is where most people tend to begin their prep journey. The process is pretty much the same with mechanical means. The more aggressive tools just make it go much faster. Which can lead to quicker results, but also quicker damage if done improperly. I figured it was better to cut my teeth on the cheaper, slower option, then upgrade tools if I liked it. I typically see “starter kit” recommendations for mechanical prep in the $800-$1000 USD range. You may get by with spending a little less, but it will still cost hundreds of dollars to get going. I spent less than $50 USD on my manual prep “starter kit” and you can get by with spending much less. Chemical prep can work well, and can be fairly cheap. A gallon of vinegar doesn't cost much... but it can VERY easily damage the fossil if you are not careful and don't know what you are doing. Proper precautions will need to be taken as well. Most chemicals used in fossil prep pose some sort of health hazard. Also, not all chemicals will work in all situations. What tools do you need to get started in Manual Prep? Anything that is sharp and can dig into the matrix that you want to remove. Seriously... Anything! There are people on TFF who started prepping with a wood nail, drywall screw, a push pin, and even a steak knife! That being said, there are definitely tools that will make life easier. Listed below are ones that I found the most helpful and personally used. Pin Vise* Magnification Lamp Dental picks Razor Knife** Brushs Sewing Needles Scribes (Sometimes referred to as Scribers) Scratch Awls Water *A word on Pin Vises... These are handy little gadgets, who's name is somewhat of a misnomer. While they are very useful for holding pins/needles and the like, they are typically sold as small hand drills, and can come with an assortment of micro drill bits. You will not need these drill bits for fossil prep, and if you can find a pin vise without the bits, it will usually cost less. They are sold by many hobby stores, or can be found online very easily. Simply put, they are handles with collets or chucks, used to hold very small things.You don't need a pin vise, but if you do purchase one, I would suggest a range of 0-.125 (1/8) inches or 0mm-3mm. This way you can hold the smallest of needles, and things up to the size of a standard rotary tool bit. Which is 1/8 inch or roughly 3mm. What you put in your pin vise will vary depending on what you are prepping, but I found that a scrib(er) or engraving tip for removing bulkier matrix, and a larger sewing needle worked rather well. They come in double ended forms, or you can usually find them cheap enough to buy more than one for quick switching between tips if you desire. **A word on Razor Knives... These are also known as hobby knives and are commonly referred to by a brand name that is rather “exact”. I had read people recommending to use these and how great they were to have around. I thought “Why use a razor blade on rock?” I didn't fully realize their use in fossil prep until I actually broke down and tried it. The tip of the knife can be used similar to a dental pick or needle and can slide between the layers of rock to pick it away or split it. I found that it could also be used to sculpt the matrix around the fossil. Sure it will dull quickly, but replacement blades are cheap, and it actually cut and planed the soft shale I was working with pretty well. I am sure there are more uses that I need to discover. Very handy and cheaply purchased. So... How do you actually prep? Well... You remove matrix without damaging the fossil. Things can happen, but this is the ultimate goal. First you use a larger tool to remove the bulk of the matrix. Depending on the size of excess matrix, you may be using a hammer and chisel for this, or you may use something like a scratch awl. My first prep was on a brachiopod valve so the scratch awl method worked well for me. I used the awl to pick and scratch at the matrix. Removing as much as I could, as quickly as I dared. Use a brush to get dust and debris out of your way. I used a small paint brush. Something that puffs air or even a little water can also work. Once you start to get closer to the fossil you will want to use something finer. When I got down fairly close, I switched over to a smaller scribe tip. When I was right next to the fossil I started using the sewing needle and dental picks. When you are right up against the fossil you will want to be very, very careful. Hopefully their will be a small gap between the matrix and the fossil. You can slide a dental pick, sewing needle, or tip of a razor blade in this gap and pick away the piece. Lifting it away from the fossil will hopefully cause it to flake off. If the matrix is more “sticky” you may need to painstakingly pick it off grain by grain. OK. Now you know how to prep, but what do you actually prep first? My advice is...Don't start with a nice, expensive, rare, or scientifically important specimen. Don't grab the one that you have just been dying to see revealed and start poking at it. There is a learning curve to prepping. The concept is simple, but in practice it is difficult. You WILL mess up. Especially on your first try. It happens. The needle slips and scratches. That piece of matrix that looked like it was going to break away cleanly took a piece of valve with it. Practice. Build up your skills and technique, then tackle that nice fossil. Your results will be much better and you will be happier with the outcome. Also, don't grab that big hash plate. Get something small that will give you a sense of completion in a few hours. A hash plate may take 10s or 100s of hours to complete. Starting with a small piece will give you a sense of completion and a much needed reward for your hard work and first try. If you collect fossils, I suggest getting something that is common to the area. Something that you might even currently pass over because they are everywhere. If you purchase your fossils, look for the same type of thing. Something that is common and not too expensive. Something that is a dime a dozen. Maybe even a fragment of a larger specimen that isn't worth much monetarily because it is broken. I would also suggest something that is relatively simple. Something with a lot of bones and pieces might throw you for a loop. Here are some Tips and Tricks that I learned just in my first few hours of prep work. Take your time! This is probably the most important tip I can give. Don't rush it. This process will take hours, not minutes. Even on something small like a brachiopod valve. I didn't time my first prep, but it took at least 4 hours. If you are tired, stop and give yourself a break. If you are frustrated with a piece that just doesn't seem to want to come off, move to another section to work on, and come back to it later. Rushing and frustrations cause mistakes. Magnification is very helpful. I would even say necessary. I used a magnification lamp. The magnification and light combo worked great for letting me see what I was doing. Especially when working close to the fossil. I have seen others who use those magnifying visors, or even a microscope. Keep your tools sharp. It sounds crazy I know. You are pushing these things into rock, and they will dull quickly, but they do work better when sharp. There is a noticeable use of less force when using a sharp tool. To borrow a philosophy from knife use... A sharp tool is a safe tool. Good lighting is a must. This goes hand in hand with magnification. If you can't see what you are doing, you can't prep. Wear proper safety equipment. Dust and flying debris is a real hazard. Even when using a tiny sewing needle. I would wear a dust mask and eye protection at the least. Gloves for protecting the hands from the errant dental pick/needle tip may come in handy as well. Know the morphology and/or anatomy of what you are trying to prep. You need to know what you are trying to dig out of the rock and what it looks like to avoid damaging the fossil or digging into the wrong place. The pieces and parts may not be where they are supposed to be, because of the nature of the fossilization process, but you need to have a good idea of what you are looking for. I wet the fossil from time to time. This isn't always an option depending on the fossil and matrix, but in my situation it helped wash away dust, bring out detail so I could better see what I was doing, and softened the matrix slightly, making it easier to prep. Stone is like wood, it has grain. Look for it and use it to your advantage. Picking and poking with the grain will typically yield better results that digging across or against it. Some things are not worth prepping. There I said it. Sometimes things will take way to long to prep, or are too delicate. You need to realize, and be ok with the fact, that some fossils, or part of a fossil, is better left alone. I'm sure I'll think of something else after posting... I hope this quick little guide will encourage other novices to try fossil prep. It is an enjoyable and rewarding aspect of the fossil obsession. Seeing something revealed for the first time in millions (sometimes hundreds of millions) of years has a distinctly wonderful feeling. Thanks to all those who helped get me going with their comments and suggestions in various threads. A special thanks to those that I PM'ed and asked questions of. You know who you are. Your knowledge and expertise were invaluable and greatly appreciated! Comments, corrections, and constructive criticisms are always welcome! Best of luck! Here is a link to my first prep that I referenced...

During the past few years, I have tried several methods of fossil preparation, including manual prepping with needles and pin vises as well as some chemical techniques. Earlier this year, I decided to try pneumatic scribes and I purchased two of the Hardy Winkler models. Before deciding on these two scribes, I was informed by the helpful comments of others on the Forum. I am now submitting my comments in the hope of adding to those reviews. Since scribes must be selected with specific purposes in mind, I will state that I am a hobbyist (not a professional) and collect relatively small fossils (ranging from couple of millimeters to a few centimeters in their longest dimensions). Also, most of the fossils I find are partially embedded in limestones, mudstones, shales, and phosphate nodules. I do nearly all of my preparation under a stereo microscope. Since my fossils are mostly small, I wanted scribes with a range of uses from very fine micro work up to moderate matrix removal. I also wanted scribes that impart minimal vibration to protect delicate fossils (as well as my own nerves and blood vessels). Finally, I wanted scribes that operate at relatively low air pressures and air volumes so I would not have to replace my 30-year-old compressor. Based on reviews in the Forum (and other sources), I decided to try the highly-adjustable HW-322 and HW-70. Skipping to the punch line, I am very happy with both scribes. They complement each other well enough to cover the entire range of my needs. For those who may be considering these scribes, the following comments will provide some pros and cons of the two models. HW-322. This scribe operates with a pointed chisel that floats in a removable head. The chisel is driven by a piston. The movement of the piston is affected by air pressure from an external regulator, a tuning adjustment in the body of the device, the actions of o-rings, and a spring. Here is an overview of how the tool’s action can be adjusted to fit the work: 1. The HW-322 typically comes with two different springs: A soft spring and a hard spring. Use the soft spring for intricate cleaning of delicate fossils. Switch to the hard spring for chiseling away somewhat larger amounts of matrix. 2. Two types of pointed 1.3 mm needles are available: Use the fine-tip needle for delicate work. Use the standard needle for less-fine uses. 3. You can vary the air pressure with the supplied regulator: For fine work with the soft spring, you can set the pressure anywhere in the range of about 0.5-1.4 bar (7-20 psi). For less-fine work with the hard spring, you can operate in the range of 0.9-1.8 bar (13-26 psi). At 1.0 bar of pressure, air consumption with the soft spring is about 17 liters per minute (0.6 cfm). With the hard spring at 1.4 bar of pressure, air consumption is about 20 liters per minute (0.7 cfm). 4. The twist-to-tune feature in the body adjusts the depth of stroke through a range of movement from a nearly imperceptible vibration of the needle to full engagement of the needle with the piston. With all of these adjustments, the tool can be configured for a range of work so broad that it’s almost like two or more scribes in one. With the soft spring and fine needle, this tool handles all of my needs for ultra-fine work. With the hard spring and standard needle, I can use the tool will remove matrix to a depth of a few millimeters over areas of a few square centimeters. Negatives/cons. As with all tools, there are some limitations. My main complaint relates to the difficulty of finding consistent technical information and instructions for the user. Some retailers offer their own pdf summary sheets and videos with use and care tips; however, there are occasional discrepancies in the advice, and I have yet to find a definitive user’s manual from the actual manufacturer. As another negative, the scribe is designed to be used only in a forward bulldozing motion. Sweeping the scribe from side to side is discouraged because side movement may cause abnormal wear to the nylon head bushing. This means you may not be able to use the scribe to sweep away tool tool marks (I am currently removing my scribe marks manually, with a hobby-type razor tool). Finally, due to limited manufacturing, retailers are often out of stock, and waiting lists are sometimes long. Most retailers sell the HW-322 in a package with one tip, both springs, a 0-4 bar air regulator with fittings, and an air hose. Mine came with European fittings, so I had to order a global-style high-flow quick connect socket (which I could not get at the local hardware stores). HW-70. The HW-70 can be adjusted for a range of uses from borderline-fine work to moderate matrix removal. Adjustments in the action of the tool are affected by the many needle sizes/styles and by varying the air pressure from the regulator, as follows: 1. Three sizes of pointed heads/needles are available (1.3 mm, 2.0 mm, and 3.0 mm). In addition, some needles are also available with chisel or hybrid tips. With the 1.3 mm pointed tip, it is possible to work relatively close to many fossils. With the larger needles in different styles, you can remove rather significant amounts of matrix in short order. 2. The overall aggressiveness of the tool is controlled by adjusting the operating pressure at the regulator. The HW-70 works well at a range of pressures from about 0.3-2.0 bar (4-29 psi). Air consumption at 2 bar is about 20 liters per minute (0.7 cfm). At low pressures with the thinnest needle, the HW-70 seems to pick up where the HW-322 leaves off. Although I always do my finish work with the HW-322, I’m happy I have the HW-70 for quicker matrix removal in the harder and larger rocks. Negatives/cons. On the negative side, the same cons apply as already mentioned for the HW-322: A disappointing lack of documentation from the manufacturer, the inability to use the scribe in a side-to-side sweeping motion, and limited availability. Concluding comments. If you are looking for high-quality scribes with minimal air supply requirements, one or both of these models may be worth considering. Before buying any scribe, I recommend you search for other reviews on this Forum. When searching for reviews, keep in mind that some members include the dash in the model numbers and others do not. Therefore, you may find more reviews if you try separate searches for HW-322 and HW322. Also try separate searches for HW-70 and HW70. If you are new to preparation work, you’ll also want to study the many informative forum posts regarding fossil repair, consolidation, and general prepping techniques. It may be worth noting that I decided to try pneumatic scribes because I tend to damage fossils when I push too hard with manual pin vises and needles. I do not have this problem with pneumatic scribes because the scribes do all the work and remove matrix with very little pushing. In fact, the HW-322 will often remove the last remaining bits of matrix from delicate fossils when the tool is held perfectly still with the needle just barely touching the matrix. There are some items you’ll need that are not provided by the manufacturer, including an air compressor, an air filter, a hose from the compressor to the filter, and all of the fittings between the compressor and the quick-connect fitting that is provided with the regulator. If you are working on small fossils, you will also benefit greatly from a stereo microscope. All of this can be expensive (not bass-boat expensive, but it may still require some time to save up). As with any scribe, the standard warnings apply: wear eye protection (unless your eyes are pressed against a pair of microscope lenses), wear respiratory protection such as a NIOSH-approved N-95 or P-100 respirator as protection against crystalline silica ( https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/silica/ ), and if you use a scribe frequently or in cold environments be sure to learn about hand-arm vibration syndrome ( https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/ergonomics/default.html#vib ). Best wishes.

I purchased this Dinosaur egg and now I want to prep it a little. I don't have an airscribe, is there another way to remove the thin layer of matrix without damaging the eggshell or shell structure?

Hello all I recently got permission from my family to build a preparation room, so I'm getting some tools to finally start preparing fossils. I've got a few fossils from my own hunts that I can start practicing on, but those are all in extremely hard, sticky rocks, and often badly preserved. I would however like to get some fossils from other locations to practice different techniques, mainly with air abrasion and to get a feel with the preparation of a wild variation of fossils. I picked some fossils (mainly from the USA), that aren't too complex I think, but please correct me if I'm wrong. - Flexicalymene or other trilobites from that are fit to prep with a combination of air abrasion and scribes, preferably some from Ohio, New York, since I think those rocks aren't too hard? - 18 inch Green River fish - White River formation fossils - Hell Creek/Lance... bones, not sure how hard these are, but stuff like this really interests me. I would prefer a couple of partials/broken specimens to practice on, and then a few nice ones to prepare after some first practice. Here are some things I'm offering in return. I will/can probably offer more, but here is at least some of the stuff I can trade. 1: Big (30 cm) vertebra from the Ouled Abdoun location in Morocco. 2 small parts glued back 2: Rooted Carcharodontosaurid tooth from the Kem Kem beds in Morocco, just shy of 10 cm (4 inch). Looks all natural to me. 3: Chilotherium jaw with associated 'tusk'. 4: Chemically prepared Keichousaurus. Very large one (skeleton measures over 30 cm). Slab looks unbroken and all natural. Hope someone can help me

Hi I’ve been wondering for a while if some fossil preparation tools cause nerve damage. I have been prepping for a for years now mainly with air scribes and haven’t noticed a difference. However a few people say that the vibration coming from the tools can cause nerve damage in the future. Is this true? Thanks for any information.

Hi, I’ve been wanting to prep some Morrison formation material for a while now however I’ve never prepped Morrison stuff. I have prepped many Hell creek and lance creek fossils. So what are the best tooth for preparing Morrison formation material specifically things like sauropod and theropod vertebrae’s? Thanks!