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Showing results for tags 'preservation'.
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Been using paraloid for a while now but I've found that it dries way too quickly making it difficult to achieve a smooth and consistent finish. I've heard I could use isopropyl alcohol instead of acetone which takes longer to evaporate which could be useful in allowing me to cover my entire specimens with an even layer. I was wondering if anyone else has tried this and if so I was wondering if there was anything I needed to know before trying this. I also wanted to ask about concentrations, at the moment I'm using a roughly 2% mixture to improve contrast and minimise that dusty look you get on many fossils on some brachiopods I found in Morocco. Is this the correct concentration? I hope someone can provide some insight here. Thanks.
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Hello! I have this iridescent Petalodus tooth that I would like to preserve. Firstly, it has a severe crack though the matrix (see pictures). Secondly, is there anything that I should do with the tooth itself? What are my options? I appreciate your help.
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Mouth of Anomalocaris
crimsonfossils posted a topic in Partners in Paleontology - Member Contributions to Science
Contributed this anomalocaris mouth to my university’s collection for research. Owner of the quarry said he only finds one every decade or so. Found in the Wheeler Formation in Utah (a Konzentrat-Lagerstätte where soft bodied organism can be preserved).
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Based on comments in the Fossil Forum, I am not the only one who has had prized specimens reduced to small piles of rubble (e.g., a prized ammonite and a prized evaporite mineral). There appears to be at least two types of problems with preservation: 1) reactive iron sulfide oxidation after exposure to atmospheric humidity (marcasite, greigite, mackinawite etc.; pyrite appears to be relatively more resistant), and drying out of specimens (I have some isotelus trilobites that have become more brittle with age). I was wondering what other members have done to forestall this problem. I have read that a coating of polyvinyl acetate dissolved in acetone has been successfully used by some. Have others exercised this option? What other options are available? It would be helpful if sources of preservation material supplies were given with other preservation options. Thank you in advance.
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Preservation of colour in fossil shells
pachy-pleuro-whatnot-odon posted a topic in Questions & Answers
Hi all, Some time ago I found this shell in (what I believe to be) the French Upper Muschelkalk (Triassic). Now I'm not into shells myself, but to judge from the remains of operculum on the underside of it, the specimen concerns an oyster. Most strikingly, however, the shell has a pattern of darker-coloured lines that do not correspond to any three-dimensional/elevational differences on the shell surface - which is, in fact, entirely flat. I haven't seen this on a fossil shell before. Now when doing a Google search for my response on whether it would be possible for crustacean carapaces to retain traces of their original colour, I bumped into an article that described that molluscs may incorporate melanin in the calcite of their shells to create the colour patterns we see (e.g., here). This got me wondering: could the lines I'm seeing indeed be traces of the original melanin pigmentation of this shell? And, if so, how common is this phenomenon? Does anybody else have examples of such shells? I'd also be very happy if someone could furnish me with a genus or species name to go with my specimen. But here I'd like to primarily raise the topic of ancient colour reconstruction in shells.
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I posted a topic in the prep subforum, but I guess it's also a general question. I notice that a lot of dinosaur claws from Niger have raised patches of black material on them and I'm wondering what this is. Is it hard rock/matrix attached to the bone or are they remnants of the original bone. Sometimes they seem to have some bone texture, other times they are very rough and rugose. Here are a few photos of what I mean. @LordTrilobite@jpc
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Have a collection of what appear to fossils though none authenticated, samples below. If correct, as they come in different media. Closest have found regarding simple care is a mixture of water and Elmers glue mixed up to to 90-10. Results are disappointing bt would like to have advice as some turn rust colored after a while. Additional question, is it advisable to wash salt from sea off before storing? Many different varieties including fossilized bone.
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Hello again! I have done my first experiment with Butvar 76 after drying my Green River fish fossils for 15 days. For this first experiment I selected a thin partially complete Diplomystus from the lower quality end of my haul last month. I gently blew compressed air over the fossil which had been picked lightly with a dental tool, then applied my mix of Butvar-76 and acetone. I found different recommendations for the ratio, and probably used to much powder in my solution because as you can see, upon returning from work I found that small bubbles were trapped inside. I assume the surface tension was too high to allow them to escape as a result of using too thick Butvar. For my next experiment I will thin it out, and brush on thin coats and apply them one at a time instead of thickly applying it. I also noticed that some of the stone dust washed into the solution above the fossils midsection in the depressions between the thin bones. Feel free to critique my first attempt and give any advice.
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Preservation/Sealing of extremely fragile Green River Limestone
Superhedger posted a topic in Fossil Preparation
Hello, My wife and I recently returned from the Green River Formation in SW Wyoming and have about 20 decent fish fossils. The limestone was wet from snow melt and is currently drying out on a table. My question is, what is the best medium to use to seal them forever? I have read about using Elmers-Glue All, Butvar and other resins, and clear lacquer. I read through some posts on this but they seemed more focused on cleaning/detailing the fossils which I have done as much as I am willing to risk already with an air blower and dental pick. Once they are dry, what is the best method to seal them completely with a clear finish so I can give some as gifts and not worry about how fragile they are?
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Greetings! I just learned about pyrite disease and got really scared. Is it really common to happen to a fossil? Is it present this possibility for every fossil? How do I recognize it if it starts happeningnon a fossil? How to prevent it from happening? How do I stop it if it happens? Please help me because I start to become paranoid....
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Does anyone know of deposits other than the LeGrand crinoids where each species is preserved in a different characteristic color, all on the same slab? We have this kind of thing in the brachiopods and trilobites of the Decorah Formation (Late Ordovician) here in Missouri, which is what got me thinking about it. But I've never seen a report summarizing other cases of this phenomenon, and as I think about it I'm not sure I can name any others. Can you? Brachiopod photo info: A= Zygospira B= Rafinesquina C= Doleroides 1 = Isotelus, rusty brown 2 = ?Achatella, light gray. Highway M near Antonia, Jefferson County Decorah Formation, Late Ordovician, ~450 million years old
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Hi there! I am brand new to the forum, but have been a fossil lover all my life. I am hoping to learn the best way to preserve sandstone leaf fossils. I've been finding them since I was a kid and my mother use to coat they in polyurethane, I believe. I'm just not convinced this is the best practice. I imagine the chemicals would deteriorate the stone overtime? Anyways, I would appreciate any and all advice. Thanks in advance! Dea
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What is the oldest identifiable organic material original to the organism?
joshuavise posted a topic in General Fossil Discussion
Just a silly curious question, but I thought I'd throw it out there. What is the oldest identifiable organic material that could be found? In case this is not phrased correctly, what I mean is "What is the oldest bone we could expect to find that would actually be bone, and not a mineral replacement?" I am aware that Mary Schweitzer may have found blood vessels and osteocytes in a T-rex limb. Are there any other things that may have been preserved in their original state as long, or longer than, this one? -
These are graptolites I dug out of an Athens Shale outcrop. They're fragile, so I am questioning whether it is better to leave them be, or seal them somehow? And if so, the best substance to get the job done. Thanks in advance. I have trilobites in shale too, so im hoping I can extrapolate from the answer here.
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Hi all, Just got back from my second trip to Shark Tooth Hill and wanted some advice on how to preserve these teeth. Mako? how would you prep these buggers for long term display?
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Hello. I recently acquired a fairly high-quality Edestus specimen (9 inches long; with two 'complete' teeth and two partial teeth). Location: Lively Grove, Illinois. However, when it arrived I immediately noticed an artificially added dark-purple colored type of "stain" material that is covering significant parts of several teeth. (Please see attached photos). I know that it's common to glue the entirety of Edestus fossils owing to the materials' fragility, but I've never encountered an additional 'stain' like this. Notably, the enamel looks a bit 'restored' in the areas where the stain is most evident (as the surface clearly changes both color and texture in those areas, particularly near the serrations), but it appears to have dripped down onto otherwise well-preserved sections of the base of several teeth, and/or been added to serration edges that are, I think, authentic.. Can anybody help me to better understand what I'm dealing with here? Any insights are deeply appreciated, Ryan
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I have a large piece of soft limestone from Lake Texoma. It contains an external mold of both a large and small ammonites. These are the first cephalopods I've ever found, and I'd like to preserve them. Any suggestions?
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Hi all, I’m excited to be going on a field trip with a a group in Illinois (ESCONI) later this month to a site that has a huge mound of mined-up Pennsylvanian shale. There may be some carbon-film plant impressions there. I’ve never collected this type of fossil before, and I’ve heard that carbon films can disappear quickly when exposed to the air. My question is should I bring something to coat this type of fossil? And if so, what? In doing some research, I see that some people recommend spray-on Krylon while others recommend against it. Would brushing on a thin coat of Paraloid do the trick? (I’ll check with some members from ESCONI, but it’s a new site for them, and their material says that there is a lot they have yet to learn about preservation of specimens from this location.)
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Hello, I recently got this section of fossilized squid pen of the giant squid Tusoteuthis longa, from the Cretaceous Niobrara Chalk of Kansas, USA. It measures about 7cm long. After receiving it I realized that it seemed rather unstable, with small "splinters" flaking off like a fragile piece of wood. I hear it is recommended to consolidate vertebrate bones with something like Butvar B-76, but what about something like this squid pen? I don't know what the material even is. Does anyone have experience preserving these? Thanks.
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From BBC News : https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20220324-how-to-maximise-your-chances-of-being-fossilised
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Hello all, I have a small baleen whale skull that I need to preserve. It was found on a beach and the sun had bleached it. After a short time it has started to flake, crack and sort of fall apart. It's very aged and porous, is there something I can coat it in to preserve it?
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Hello! I'm considering coating some of my delicate fossils in Paraloid (mixed with Acetone), to seal them and protect them for the future. How long would a typical, let's say, Green River fish take to decompose without such or similar techniques applied? I am very wary of doing irreversible acts to the rocks, so, how would one de-Paraloid a fossil, and would there be any damage? Just, any tips whatsoever would help, I'm feeling pretty inadequate about all this
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Hello, I'm considering this crinoid, listed as Eucalyptocrinus crassus. It is about 6cm. I was wondering if there looks to be any reconstruction/repair, and if the preservation quality looks to be good/bad/typical of these specimens? I'm not an expert on these but from what I understand this specimen has the arms attached and preserved on the crown, but it is a little crushed? I'd like to add it to my collection if it's in decent state. Thanks.
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(First post so sorry if there are formatting errors) Yesterday I took my first fossil hunting trip ever and had some beginners luck! I went to Cory’s Lane in RI and stayed for about an hour and a half. I found a few pieces (pics below) that I’m really proud of. I’m not sure if the large one with big lines in it is a fossil so if anyone knows that would be great. All that said, I still have no idea what I did right (or what I was doing wrong). Some members told me that I should go for the dark grey shale and not the graphite-black stuff, which I tried to do. I was also told gentle digging would produce shale that may hold better prints but didn’t have a shovel with me. I definitely intend to go again so any tips on improving my technique for that site would be appreciated. I was also wondering if there is a way to tidy these up/make the imprints stand out at all? I looked at some posts about PVA etc. but those seem to be techniques for museum-grade pieces (which I know these aren’t). Also the first picture has lots of what I assume are rust stains and I was wondering if it’s possible to remove those without destroying the prints?
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Hi all! I recently bought these two pieces of mammoth tusk that have been fished up from the North Sea during the 80ties. The current owner inherited them and didn't know if they had been desalinized. The larger one was badly preserved and coated with some sort lacquer with all kinds of ugly blobs. I did 3 passes of 400 grit water resistant sandpaper on both of them which removed all the old gunk from the larger one and smoothed both of the tusks out nicely. As you can see in the pictures they both have some cracks, the larger one gets up to about 5 mm at most and the other one is about 1.5 mm. on the smaller one. I've got a couple of questions. - Should i still desalinize both tusks as I'm not sure this has ever happened. - should i clamp the larger piece to get rid of the cracks before stabilizing it ( the ducktape was a temp. option until i find out how to approach this) - I've read on here i should use paraloid B72 and acetone to preserve it properly. How much of both would i need is one kg of Paraloid b72 enough and 1 liter of acetone ( or do i need 5, bout 20 percent more than a gallon.) - is it possible to fill in the cracks with a lower dilution of Paraloid and Acetone? Thank you for your time!
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