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  1. I have a few pleistocene bones and large shell fragments that are fractured, and I'm unclear on the best way to repair them. I've read many topics on the forum about the importance of consolidation and materials to use, and I have materials on order, so I should be able to get started soon. But I'm a little unclear on the process if the bone is in two or three pieces. If you have a completely broken bone, should you consolidate the broken pieces separately first (i.e. in an acetone/butvar mix), then glue them back together with something like CA glue? Or would the consolidant make it harder to piece and glue them back together after they dry? Thank you, Brandy
  2. Hi All! I am new to fossil collecting and I recently bought a Carcharodontosaurus tooth from an online fossil store. I just want to double check with more experienced people to see if the tooth looks real and is as described by the seller. The description said it is from the Kem Kem deposits of Morocco, and has no repair or restoration. The tooth is one and 1/16 inches long. Thank you for your help!
  3. While out on a hunt in the Marias River Shale (Cretaceous) near Fort Benton, MT, I found what I believe to be either a holoscaphites or clioscaphites, based on the research I have done. The rocks in the exposure are quite segmented and eroded and don't take much force to break apart; a few small taps from my hammer made the rock, and the fossil inside, essentially fall apart into several pieces. My question is not one of ID, but rather of how to best prepare this fossil. From looking around this forum, it seems that many people use super glue for repairs that aren't very large. Would super glue be smart to use here, or should I order some Paleo-Bond? My best guess is that this fossil is only about 10 cm across or so, but it's hard to tell because it's in pieces. I am also about 95% sure that I got all the pieces, but I'm sure there's small fragments missing here and there. Is it important/necessary to fill in missing bits with epoxy, clay, etc.? My next question is about the white powder that covers this fossil. Most every fossil I found still in matrix had some amount of white powder on it, so I can assume it's either part of the shell or a chemical/geological effect of the fossilization process. Is this powder important to the integrity/aesthetic of the fossil, or is it something that can/should be cleaned/removed? There are some very neat internal structures visible on the breaks, plus some crystallization. The white material rubs off at the slightest touch. I have tried my best to minimize how much white comes off the main segments (this one was a swipe off a piece of the negative). I have not done anything to this fossil except attempted to fit the larger pieces together to make sure I'm not missing any other major pieces; I've already made one return trip to the site to recover some bits that I know I left behind the first time. Please let me know if I need to upload more pictures. I would love to repair this gorgeous ammonite and do it justice by not destroying it even more. Thank you!
  4. quam_fossilium

    Fossil repair

    Hello all! First, let me say I am a relatively new fossil collector and new to this forum. I am a biologist and typically study living things, so please don't throw me out! I recently purchased a Keichousaurus hui from another collector but when it arrived the specimen was damaged. It appears to have broken along 2 previously repaired cracks in the matrix. I would like to repair this specimen or perhaps more ideally, have it repaired by someone experienced. Can anyone point me toward a suitable resource for proper guidance, or an experienced collector or professional who can repair this specimen? Any assistance you can offer will be much appreciated!
  5. Phos_01

    Fossil hunting

    Hello, Just wondering, when you visit a large Fossil or Mineral expo / fair, do you guys bring your UV light to check if the fossils are real ? If you spot something suspicious on for example a tooth of claw, what will it look like? Im buying my UV light for future purchases. Looking forward to hear what you all take along when you're on the hunt for new fossils. Another question, can you spot a Fossil in matrix with the UV light? Best regards, Egon
  6. Greetings All! I have an old (ca. 1960s) S.S. White Model F (that's right, Model "F") that has stopped working. I've taken it apart and tested what I could, but I'm pretty sure it's an electrical issue, and I don't have much experience in circuit testing. Does anybody on the Forum know someone who repairs such ancient technology? Preferably in the Midwest (I live in Michigan) to avoid shipping charges (it is both big and heavy). Thank you much for any referrals that you can provide!
  7. Looking to purchase a new Megalodon tooth that is not from the United states. Came across this one. Is this worth it or should I skip it Edit 1: The big and actual only thing i am kind of skeptical about is the right part of the Bourlette. I've purchased and traded with this person for a longer time now and he is trustworthy
  8. I found this bag of shattered fossils in my father's fossil collection. Where might this type of fossil material come from? Is this shale? It's almost chalky and very fragile. It seems to be have shattered in shipping. Is any of it worth saving? And if so, what to do? Thanks in advance!
  9. I’m planning on trading for this tooth but before I do I wanted to make sure if there’s any restoration or repair on the tooth. The tooth is labeled as Zhuchengtyrannus cf. and is from the 75-71 million year old Djadochta Formation of Southern Mongolia. Though I think it’s safer to call it Tyrannosaurid indet. at the moment as the species or any Tyrannosaur species hasn’t been formally described from the formation.
  10. Mantelliceras

    Big Ammonite Repair Adhesive

    Hello everyone! I managed to bring home this crazy guy, the problem is that it was so big it broke in pieces when extracting it. I've been using "Loctite Super Glue 3" (ethyl cyanoacrylate) for repairing my fossils until now and it worked pretty well. However, this one might be too heavy I'm afraid it wont be enough to keep the pieces together and it can be dangerous (since the whole fossil probably weights over 70 lbs). There are also some cracks I would like to fill, I heard a technique where you ground some matrix rock to dust and then use that powder to make a glue that has the exact same colour of the fossil, anyone knows about it?. To summarise: what is the best adhesive for heavy rocks? and, is there a way to fill the cracks so it won't look like it's broken? Thank you very much for your help. Here goes the picture of the fossil: Best regards,
  11. Ptychodus04

    Rhino Repair

    I received this “little” project today. This restored wooly rhino skull was dropped while trying to be moved.
  12. This looks to have some small spots of fill, but do any of you see something more? Also hard to tell if the horn was put into the left eye socket to make it look like a fascinating death fossil versus really found like that. thanks
  13. Hello everyone This tooth is one is like to buy if it's no repair, but it's a strange one. It looks as if it's supposed to have repair because the contours are off. But the enamel is really pretty. What say people here? Repairs?
  14. Hello all, I'm thinking of buying this carcharodontosaurus tooth, it's 78 mm long, but it looks a little restored in my unprofessional eyes. What do people here think?
  15. PrehistoricWonders

    Ungluing help

    Hey, I was wondering if there was something I could use to unglue a tooth I’ve got. It broke during shipping and I glued it, but there’s a piece that I have that doesn’t fit where it should go. I don’t want to use acetone cause I know that can be harmful to fossils sometimes, and paleo debonder didn’t work great previous times I’ve tried using it. TIA
  16. Hi im and amateur collector and I'm not sure if the was the right section to post this under. I purchased this tusk a couple years ago. The seller said he's had it since the 1970s. Because of the large crack from top to bottom and the inside is quite powdery. Is there and thing I can do to preserve it? Its about 6.5 feet along the curve and 120lb so I get worried when I move it. Also I see that great patina on some tusks is that something that is added 5o make it shine or does it comes out of the ground like that? Any help would be appreciated!
  17. Edit: Wrong use of photos. Will update shortly! Hello! I've been eyeing this tooth for some time now - but before buying I could need a bit of help! The price is very reasonable for a tooth at 11,3 cm and overall the condition is good - which makes me a bit suspicious The market for fossils in the country I live in is very niche, which might explain the price, but I would like to hear the opinion from folks that have more knowledge than I do. Cheers! Anne
  18. I've owned a sweet Keich that came from China via Germany in the mid-20th century. In our last move, it was broken. The photos attached show the main break point with missing vertebrae. The next photo shows the cross-section, just for the sake of proving authenticity (you can see how the matrix striae curve around the bone as well as the details of the spine in cross-section). As I was lucky enough to find the missing vertebrae I placed the pieces together in the next photo and held the pieces in place in the final photo to show how it should look when finally repaired. My question: What adhesive should I use to repair the matrix and is there something different I should use to glue the delicate piece with the vertebrae into place? Many thanks to all for any experience/advice.
  19. jnicholes

    Fossil catastrophe

    I have posted many times pictures of my big Phareodus testis fossil. Well, it fell and broke today. Fortunately, I have all the pieces, and I am going to put it back together as soon as I get some of the right glue. This is a disaster. My best and biggest fossil broke. I am not too upset, because there is hope to fix it, by the way. As soon as it is fixed, I am going to put it in a sturdy frame so this does not happen again. Ill post pictures when it is fixed. Jared
  20. Ptychodus04

    Mammoth Repair

    I picked up this mammoth humerus from the Brown County Museum of History a couple weeks ago and have begun the repair. Apparently, someone tried to move it and it must have gotten dropped. I don't have the story on the damage, only the request for repair. Nobody's admittin' nuthin'! It came to me in 3 boxes (never a good thing for a single bone). This bone has an unknown provinance but has been at the museum for decades. Judging by the state of the plaster restoration, I would say this was done sometime in the 1960' or 70's. I soaked the exposed bone in stabilizer and applied a liberal mount of clear, non-expanding, Gorilla Glue to the joints and strapped the whole thing together for a couple of days. My lab is still covered in Green river fish so, while the wife was away from the house, the bone got moved to the dining room table. to her credit, she didn't say a word about it when she got home! I think she's been around me long enough to expect random dead things showing up in her house. This was when I discovered that I am completely out of white Apoxie Sculpt for the crack filling. Thankfully, I have to paint the repairs anyway so, they will get dark brown epoxy. I don't have a picture of the epoxied cracks yet but they are done and I've used about a gallon of cyannoacrylate on the plaster because upon closer inspection, the whole thing was covered in hairline cracks and just waiting to fall apart. I don't want to do a full restoration on this thing so I made the decision to save what is there.
  21. Hi there I recently purchased a Albertasaurus tooth. A portion is in a matrix and there are some broken off pieces. This would be my first attempt a putting a fossil back together. If you could provide any input on 1. if it would devalue it by doing it, 2. how I should do it, 3. and what tools or glue or putty I should use. If you could dumb down the language for me that would be appreciated, like I said this is my first time!
  22. So I have recently seen a few Glossopteris of interest and have bought a few to add to the collection. This one arrived in the mail in pieces Am quite disappointed as it was a good size (24 x 15 cm) at a very reasonable price. The seller has given me a full refund and has said I can keep the item. (Must say that after seeing a number of "red flag" items on their website, I will never touch this company again)....anyhow. Is this worth repairing? If so, how would I go about it?
  23. Wxman

    Crazy glue or epoxy?

    Hi all. I was hoping to find a pinned set of notes on when and how to use the various glues available for strengthening weak pieces, or repairing fractured ones; but there doesn't seem to be one. Can anyone point out a great thread, or chime in here on what you use and why you choose it in a given situation? Thanks.
  24. Which of these two would you pick? Both say some repair and restoration and I can see the repaired cracks and assuming the darker areas are the restored areas. I have no idea and the dark brown is on both unless it’s part of the glue and wondered if it would come off.
  25. Hi there I recently purchased a cave bear paw and arm. It unfortunately cracked almost clean thru along a pin at the end of the humerus and a few piece broke off the head of the humerus. The seller said to use super glue for the repair. I am a total amateur. Is this the best thing to use? Any recommendations on how repair or what to use. If you recommend something other that super glue please let me know if it's something I can buy online Thanks!
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