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Found 68 results

  1. When prepping fossils with an air abrasive unit, what is the micron size of the dust created? I've been looking on here, googling, etc trying to find some data on this with no luck. I know it varies on what you're working on and substrate for blasting, but wondering if anyone knows what the smallest particle size is released from the prep work?
  2. As it doesn't look like I'll be able to get out to collect today, I thought I'd throw the ol' shoulder into some basic prep, and this one presents a few challenges. I did manage to find two full Flexicalymene senaria prones in Brechin, but lost one in the field (doh!). This one is pretty kinked up, almost as though a cartoon iron bar was dropped on its thorax. So, it undulates and stretches accordingly, and it is unclear just how much of it is tucked in the matrix. The first pic is pretty much how I found it.
  3. Question to you master preppers out there. When you prep with hand tools such as dental picks, sewing pins, etc, do you wear respirators? I know with the air abrasive you need to be careful, but I'm wondering how much of those tiny particles are released when doing a more mechanical prep. I'd like to set up a nice prep workshop as I bought the pneumatic tools, but don't want to use them until I figure out a safe way to use them without making a mess of my garage or venting it outside where my kids play. Until then I thought I'd try and give it a go with hand prepping, but want to make sure I'm protecting myself as well as my family as the kids will undoubtedly want to be part of it. i imagine that it wouldn't hurt more than playing in the sandbox, but just curious what others opinions are on it. The matrix I'd be removing would be Pierre shale, sandstone from hell creek, and maybe dolomite. Thanks in advance.
  4. I just finished up a prep for @Fossil-Hound of some E. rana trilobites from Penn Dixie. It was a lot of fun and they were cool to prep. I got to really put my Micro Jack to work! Here are a few pics of a before and after.
  5. I have been working on making my own air abrasive unit but the pen section I created it not precise enough being made of plumbing parts. I am curious if any of you have found a somewhat affordable pen. I have only seen tip replacements and pens with the abrasive feeder. Thanks
  6. @pamk7802 brought me a slab from the Lower Cretaceous Duck Creek Formation full of brittle stars to prep recently. Most of the prep was with abrasive. I did have a couple areas of thicker matrix that required some scribe work. Here's the slab before: and after: PVA consolidant applied to lock everything down as the arms are VERY fragile. Close up pics:
  7. I don't have much experience with splitting rocks (just about zero), but I got this nice trilobite in the mail recently. Looking at it, there are some negatives in other layers, so I am wondering what my odds of finding more inside the rock would be. It is fairly thick, but I don't want to damage the big one. Do you think it is a good idea to split it more, or should it be left alone? Is I were to split it, what is the safest way to go about it?
  8. Hi, was going to test my pen/compressor today, water trap not been delivered yet, is it safe to have a little play with the pen on a few specimens without the trap for a little while ? Cheers.
  9. Right... bought my ST pen few months back, got my compressor today (50l) going to order my water trap soon, got hoses too, got a build up of large Ammonites and bone concretions that need to be prepped, will start off with a few practice Ammonites then move onto bigger things, any hints n tips for first time set ups and prep ? Cheers.
  10. Now that Snollyfish and the Oreodont Smoothie are done, the next project is another fine specimen belonging to our very own @StevenJDennis. I swear, he has all the luck and a collection to rival the Smithsonian's. This little baby is a nice phytosaur snout. It has really brittle teeth and hard matrix (exciting combination), so fast removal with the CP9361is out. The Aro is almost too much and I'm having to be extremely careful around the teeth with liberal use of PVA consolidation. It has had previous "restoration" done with what appears to be wood filler on several breaks. Thankfully, it appears to be holding on well so I'll only mess with it to finish it up. Here's a pic of it before work started. And, here's how it sits currently after 4 hours of prep. The distal end will eventually be reattached.
  11. Hi so this is not an ID request more of an advice post. I had a very productive day at Port Mulgrave this week but unlike a number of the people on the shore who were smashing everything in site and leaving anything but perfect fossils strewn across the beach I prefer to collect a few potential nodules to bring home. This is I hope going to yield a nice specimen. Before I start could anyone offer advice on how to start and whether it appears to be a keel on the rim or a geological feature. I have a Dremel and a cheap air pen for detail but have never undertaken anything like this. i am reluctant to just hot it with a hammer. Any thoughts and sorry for the above rant but over the past few weeks the area at Port M has become a draw for treasure hunters rather than collectors. each to their own probably but I see each fossil as special. Steve
  12. Hi all, First off, I am a real noob when it comes to prepping fossils... This is why I have a question for you, which I don't think would be too hard for you pros out there. Some of you may have seen this sea urchin before; anyways I wanted to prep it, as I believe it will look quite nice after a good prep. There is just one problem though: the matrix is very hard (compared to what I'm used to). So how should I clear all this matrix? The tools I have are very limited, but I can buy new things (as long as they are very cheap materials). I have: one long thin metal needle, one strong pointed needle, one strong small chisel, and one thing to blow the matrix away (sorry if I don't have the correct terms)... If needed I can post a picture of the tools. Here is a picture of the fossil:
  13. I found a really cool Calamites fossil with exquisite detail on a wet day a couple months ago, but after a week or so of keeping it indoors, the details started to fade and the colors became dull. It springs back to life when damp, but that only lasts so long and I fear that annually applying water might eventually wear the fossil. I think I've read somewhere that you can use vegetable oil to keep rocks/fossils looking saturated, but I was wondering if that might cause any structural damage or any other ill effects to a sandstone-based fossil. Thanks!
  14. I'm just curious to see what all your pros are working with. My station is pretty much complete, I have a limited area in south tampa. I've seen a lot of the air abrasion boxes, and I'm curious, what's the point? Why not just use a full face APR, gloves, and call it a day? Anyway, SHOW ME WHAT YOU GOT!
  15. Recently acquired this piece of rock with some jaw segments, vertebra and teeth in it along with a squalicorax tooth. What is the best way to prep it for display? Should I just leave it alone?
  16. Looking at different compressors, some are 2hp and some 2.5hp, some have 7cfm and some 9.3cfm would these make a difference when prepping do you think ? Any real noticeable difference ? Thanks
  17. Hi I read that some collectors give some of thier ammonites a light rub with clear bees wax too bring out a nice lustre. I was thinking my trilobite block may benefit from this as it is a little bit of an ugly arrangement and not the prettiest of fossils but the wax may make it stand out more .Any advice from the good people of fossil forum will be appreciated . Thanks Bobby
  18. So, I had a Greenops boothi that was missing the the glabella and the entire left portions of the cephalon. @ischua and I dug this fella up at Penn Dixie in the fall. I decided to finally have a go at him to see how much could be salvaged. Here's the before: A little more work: A little more: And, finally: For size:
  19. hi, i bought this big ammonite to prepare, a megalytoceras maybe, any suggestions? i dont want to ruin it.
  20. Hello all fossil-friends! (I'm not sure whether this is in the right thread, if it's not I'd love the admins to put it where it's meant to be .) Anyways, I wanted to tell everyone that their is a big fossil market at Ede (Netherlands) this weekend, and that I would love you to come! It is organized by the Paleobiologische Kring van Nerderland/Vlaanderen (Paleobiological Group of Netherlands/Flanders), the Werkgroep Fossielen Wageningen (Workgroup Fossils Wageningen), and the famous Fossiel.NET (basically a Dutch version of TFF); many other organizations/museums will be there too. There will be plenty of stuff to do: amateur-paleontologist encounters, fossil IDing by experts, fossil trading, fossil buying/selling, lectures by paleontologists, prep demonstrations, and many other fun fossil-related activities/workshops! Here's the info you need to know: Date: Saturday 11th March 2017 Time: 10:30 till 16:00 Address: Het ROVC, Galvanistraat 13, 6716 AE, Ede, NETHERLANDS Entry fee: FREE! Stuff to bring with you: fossils you are willing to trade, to prep, to get IDd, etc; and some money. No food needed (drinks and food available). Here is a link with all the information you need: https://english.fossiel.net/beursede/ BUT: this is only for fossils, so NO minerals, artifacts, etc.! I will of course be there, and I hope that you will also be. I hope to see you there! Max PS: I'm not an organizer or anything of the event, I'm just telling everyone about it so that there will be more people to meet.
  21. Hi, i'm doing some practice of fossils prep, like i wrote in the title im looking for some unprepared fossils , better if from uk or europe. if someone got some let me know. thanks!
  22. Hi Folks, I did not take a true before picture so I am sorry, but here is my work on a branching stem. The sandstone matrix is very hard and breaks very randomly. In this case, I think due to winter freezing and thawing with moisture, there was a natural crack where the rock split and another that can't be seen in the photo that greatly aided the prep. I used a dremel with a carbide burr to ensure the crack would end where I wanted to and not spread into the already exposed fossil. I also have the counterpart to this fossil so I wanted to see what I could get. The first photo is the fossil with the removed pieces put back on. Second is the revealed branch, and third is a close up of the other fossil that showed up in the split. Some kind of textured bark impression or larger branch.
  23. I bought a slab some time ago, and have finally gotten around to prepping it. (Note, I do not have an air scribe, so it takes quite a bit of time) Current Progress: (20 minutes) Only the vertebrae and a few ribs are visible here. I have noticed as I am going along, it is much more difficult than it appeared when I first purchased it. The skin is fairly intact, though there are some patches that are missing. Use a gum eraser to help clean away the dust because it is gentle, particularly on the fragile bones. All I am using is a small hand prepping tool, and though it is time consuming, it still works for me.
  24. Here are copies of images that Kris posted in the "Auction prep" topic. The slab he is prepping contains this large plant fragment. I have scanned Grande's text looking for a match, but have had no success. Does anyone have a clue as to a possible donor of the fragment? Also check out Kris' interesting prep series on this Notogoneus specimen.
  25. @StevenJDennis brought me quite the project. It's a central Texas mammoth tusk that is in terrible shape! Texas tusks are as close to the complete opposite in preservation as compared to Siberian or Alaskan tusks. They are always brittle, broken, and just looking for an excuse to fall apart. Props to Steven for rescuing this monster from a terrible fate in the back of an old man's shed! The pics below show the tusk in the sate of preservation as they arrived to me. I have spent the last week with the fragments on end literally pouring medium viscosity PVA solution (about as thick as 20w 20 motor oil) into the cracks in an effort to stabilize them. 1 gallon later and they are beginning to toughen up a bit. PVA application will continue until the fragments will no longer absorb the solution. Then, I will attempt reassembly of the fragments. Unfortunately, there has been serious degradation of the fragments in many places. More to come!