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Found 187 results

  1. Miocenic fish and teredine

    Hi Guys, I'm preparing this beautiful Miocene fish lying on a bed of teredins. Arriving at this point in the preparation I am undecided about what to do, there are two options: 1) eliminate the teredinas to free the fishing also from the other side (assuming it is intact) and make a 3d fish. 2) Do not go further and refine the work. What do you recommend? In the picture the 2 sides. video-1573331835.mp4
  2. I've been doing preparation for four years now and have tried various masks but none seem to work for me. I've used the disposable ones and the hard ones, but since I use a microscope for preparation all they seem to do is restrict me or send all the air I'm breathing out upwards and steam up the eye pieces! I have a pretty narrow nose so I sit pretty close to my microscope. I've found when I do wear the disposable masks I end up pulling it under my nose - pretty much defeats the purpose. I was just wondering what others around the world use? I know it's dangerous to not wear a mask, and that's what I'm currently doing. For ear protection I use some noise cancelling headphones - best investment I ever made! They are a million times better than earplugs or earphones in my experience, and you can still hear when people are talking to you. Any general notes or suggestions on PPE used around the world would be great!
  3. Hello friends. i am from Vietnam. People in my country dont know much about fossils, and we have no forums to ask about fossils. So, can you help me to finish my preparation? ------ I bought from internet I used sandblaster to expose specimen. Looks more and more beautiful: More bones were exposed. These are hands and foots. But when i use sandblaster, the bones were destroyed, too. So i stop using sandblaster, and dont know WHAT CAN I DO NEXT? ----- I see other Keichousaurus on internet. It's perfect: -------- I want to prepare my fossil like that. I am thinking about using Acid, but i havent used acid before. CAN YOU GUIDE ME WHAT TO DO NEXT? --------- I plan to use acid to soften the stone and expose the bones. Then continue using sandblasting gun (because now the stone is softer, sandblasting at low intensity will not destroy bones). Do you think so? Thank you my friends!
  4. Hello all, I was wondering if anyone could give me suggestions for cleaning this tooth. It is a C. poseidoni (sokolovi) from Harleyville, South Carolina. The tooth has some dirt covering parts of the crown, bourlette, and root. I tried using warm water and a toothbrush, but I was unable to remove anything. Are there any other methods for cleaning fossil shark teeth? Should I just leave the tooth as is? I would prefer not to use vinegar. Thanks for any suggestions.
  5. Trimming matrix with saws

    Hi All. I am looking for suggestions on trimming matrix (hard shale, limestone) from specimens. I have used a tile saw in the past. I am wondering if small hand saws with diamond blades would also be effective. I appreciate the help.
  6. Preparation training!

    Hi, that's my second preparation using only handtools and table grinder for rough shaping. Limestone can be a pain but I'm slowly learning moves, can't wait for engraver I'm still loooking for my "style", let me know what's wrong and what is right
  7. Help with preparation

    Hello, i have a few fossils like the one in the picture, they are all shells in limestone. I want to clean them and i have had some success with acetic acid. I just wondered if someone had any tips or a better way to clean them, also if anyone knows whats the best concentration to clean them, mine is 25% acid but this seems a little high. I can post a picture of a relatively clean one if it helps to identify the best way to clean them.
  8. I recently found a nice Calymene tuberculata trilobite on my vacation to Gotland. I’m currently in the process of preparing it and wonder what coating I should use? Is it possible to give it a slightly wet look while not making it look glossy and artificial? I’m considering some kind of vax-based product. Any tips?
  9. Hi we are newbies, went to Kemerer and found a lot of fish, and a slab with a tree branch (about a foot long 6 " wide). YOu can see patterns of the bark, but it is very faint. I am not sure if we should remove the covering and see if there is a darker layer under the stone? As it was a fairly larger specimen it may be more 3 dimensional. Any Suggestions? Any one have ideas? (On the fish I have heard 1:6 and 1:20 diluted wood glue is that correct?
  10. Hoping some of the pros here are willing to share microfossil prep techniques or suggestions to journal articles on the subject. I have been hunting conodonts and the like for quite some time, but the glacial acetic acid digestion and pan and scan techniques have failed me. I experimented with HCl and H2SO4 in various concentrations, and even tried some ion exchange extractions ( which work on paper, but are lousy in practice)! This sort of fossil hunting has become vendetta for me and I suspect I am using the wrong search terms in the academic data bases. I'll be on an excursion until the 26th of July, but I'm going to try and check in here from Spanish Fork or Delta. (And hopefully have some non-nebraska samples to work with and turn my students loose on!)
  11. Preparation Machinery

    Hello fossil people of the world! I'm desperately looking for an old Paleotools microjack. It doesn't have to be in working condition, but if it is that's a bonus! Anyone out there have an old secondhand one or one they are no longer using? I'm ideally trying to find a 3, but any size will do. I have borrowed a 3 but need to return really soon. So hoping someone out there has a secondhand one to sell! Or any ideas of where a used one can be purchased? I do very fine work on ribs and finger bones like on the picture I've attached, so the larger scribes are a bit too hardcore!
  12. Dremel engraver fine tips

    I just wanted to give a product recommendation here. I was looking for a finer tip for my Dremel engraver so I could work on smaller areas without fear of damage. I was recommended this guy (from our favorite auction site) by a fellow member. I was a little skeptical at first since it's hand crafted, but I figured hey why not, costs about what I spend on coffee every day. But I must say, this is one of the best purchases I've made. It outperforms the standard tips by several factors. Not only does it allow you to work on tighter areas, but it is very long, which increased the working distance by almost an inch. Also, since the tip is so small, it more easily took advantage of weak points in the matrix. The standard tips mostly pummel the matrix to bits, whereas shale has been sliding off like butter with this new tip. I highly recommend this to the folks on here who can't get a higher end setup. Makes a world of difference.
  13. Removal of Glue Marks

    I am trying to prepare this nice plant fossil I found in Wyoming, but can’t figure out how to remove the glue marks left over from stabilizing the fossilized piece of branch in the center. The glue marks are the dark area near the fossilized branch. Anyone have any advice?
  14. Fossil-Hounds Fossil Prep

    FYI @DevonianDigger @JamesAndTheFossilPeach @Kane @Malcolmt @caldigger @RJB @Ptychodus04 @Fossildude19 @FossilSloth @FossilDudeCO I need your guy's input as I go along! I'm a green horn! Thank you in advance. Well since some of you who I know have started your own fossil preparation threads I thought I'd do the same. A lot has transpired since, well Saturday morning. I went all chips in and bought a really nice two stage, 60 gallon Kobalt air compressor. You don't want to know the cost. My jaw dropped when the cashier rang up the total but I had no other choice. I was all in at this point. Went home and my neighbors helped me lift this monster out of my cousins pickup and I spent the rest of the day setting everything up then realized that I didn't have the connector for the 3/4 output on the tank so went back today and figured it out. The Lowes guy and I had fun figuring this puzzle out together. So I have a moisture trap, emergency shutoff (isolator) valve, regulator, 25 foot air hose, CP-9361, some fossils to prepare, and 240 volt connection (yes I wired up the plug and cabling). Wiring up this 240 volt electrical housing was probably the scariest thing I've ever done in my life. Definitely not a lot of room for error. Really was nervous about doing this. Also nervous about this. Had to punch a hole through 11 inch dry wall and plywood to get to the washer/dryer room to access the 240 volt dryer outlet. Thankfully we weren't using that outlet as our drier runs on natural gas. Here's the big 250 lb air compressor. This thing pumps out a ton of air. I was able to run the scribe continuously for three hours. No stopping! Moisture trap, shut off valve, and the regulator all hooked up to a large 3/4 elbow. One of the reasons why I had to get the elbow was because I knew with all the extra valves and connections it would put strain on the line so I wanted gravity to compliment the setup (as punishing as gravity can be at times). So now for the good part. The fossils. Recently acquired a massive Tumidocarcinus giganteus crab concretion from New Zealand. Within a few hours the carapace is well exposed. I'm not exactly sure what to look for here. There's either an exoskeleton that's flaking off or that's some sort of chemical process on the outside. I'm really not sure as I've seen these crabs in both that light pinkish hue and then in the black color. Where the black is was where the concretion was exposed to the elements. You can see the non-dominant left claw being teased out. That's also delicate so I've really been taking my time. Worked on it for about 3 hours total. So far so good. Here's a couple pictures to illustrate the process. Unlike @RJB I may not have a beer by my side but I'm ready to go crabbing. Definitely needed the safety goggles. Will need to pickup an air mask tomorrow along with some noise cancelling headphones (have some Beats at work). Roughly 10 minutes in and am really taking my time (don't want to do anything that I might regret later). About 40 minutes in. Slowly inching my way towards the left claw. About two hours into the process. The carapace is starting to show. Decided to leave at this point with nearly three hours invested. I hear crabs can have leg parts in virtually any arrangement depending on their displacement and preservation but I'm anticipating legs going from the carapace region out towards the edges (you can see points where legs should be). Really decided to slow down and take my time. I think this is going to be a very special fossil especially since it's the first crab I'm preparing and the first fossil prepared by my first owned air scribe the tried and true CP-9361. I'm sure I'll make mistakes along the way and I'm not doing this the way other more experienced prepares would but it's a start. The CP-9361. I'm in love. Then for kicks I decided to do some work on this little Knightia from the split fish layers. The Museum of Ancient Life curator that I've been volunteering with has been teaching me the ways of prep. Some secrets I won't be able to divulge here as I've sworn an oath of secrecy but he's really good at preparing Green River fish. He actually uses a CP-9361 so I figured why couldn't I right? Well I went in really slowly on this fish and exposed it in about five minutes flat. There's a few punch holes on the far end of the tail from where I was a tad bit to aggressive with the scribe but with time and practice I'll get a better feel for how to work with this soft matrix. I'm sure the 18 inch layer is a bit harder. Still I think it came out for a common fish and it looks pretty good. I forgot to take a before picture but here's an after picture. Little Knightia required only 5 minutes of preparation work with the CP9361 when it would have taken at least an hour with dental picks, which I'm never going back to again.
  15. Looking for material to practice, like the u prep site but not as much of a gamble
  16. Looks like a new set of photography techniques will assist us in determining what is associated and what was added to those drool worthy discoveries. Progressive Photonics
  17. Back during an April trip to the Widder Formation (Mid-Devonian), I came upon a rather sizeable placoderm. It is very likely the arthrodire, Protitanichthys sp., although it is a bit of wastebasket taxon, but new research is underway. It was pretty much stuck in this rock, and it was only going to come out the hard way. I collected every little bit I could find from that dirty, messy bench, including the impression. Here is the in situ photo:
  18. Does anyone create fossil prep videos/ tutorials. Or do you know of any videos worth a watch? Would be great to expand my knowledge and enjoyable to watch others work!
  19. Jay's Prep Blog

    Okay, so everyone else is doing one it looks like, so I figured I would jump into the fray.
  20. So, finally on the last leg of my trip and headed home tomorrow. Am thinking ahead about trying to prep my DSR Dipleura. Doubt I could but does anyone think it would it be possible to flip the cephalon to straighten this bug out? There is about 3/8 inch of matrix between at tip of cephalon. Otherwise the plan is just to re-glue the pygidum break, cleanup the cephalon and enjoy my beginners luck Dipleura
  21. On rare occasions and on a purely subjective basis, Admins on TFF will award The Golden Drool Bucket. The award has evolved to encompass 'off the charts', museum-worthy finds; a best of the best, stunning and well documented collections; or world class preparation on a world class find. You will be amazed, entertained, and educated as you enjoy what these members have shared with us. 1. worthy 55 - "Big Bird" 2. Xiphactinus - "Bob" 3. docdutronc - world class plant collection 4. Terry Dactyll - ammonoid discovery and preparation 5. RCFossils - world class Mazon Creek fossil collection 6. triarthrus - pyritized blastoids 7. lormouth - amazing dinosaur skull replicas 8. John K - pterosaur brain endocast 9. piranha - world class documented fossil collection 10. paleoflor - incredible Carboniferous trace fossils and attentive scholarship 11. LordTrilobite - bambiraptor skeleton project 12. isurus90064 - world class shark tooth collection 13. Troodon - world class dinosaur collection 14. Welsh Wizard - discovery, preparation and donation of a new Jurassic dinosaur 15. oilshale - world class fossil collection 16. minnbuckeye - amazing find of the trilobite Dolichoharpes reticulata 17. Aurelius - exquisite achievements in amber photomacrography and collection 18. MattFossil - world class Ichthyosaur Fossil
  22. Giving fossils wet look

    I only prep with hand tools at the moment so I can rarely get all the matrix off a fossil. However, when wet, the matrix is usually impossible to see and the fossil looks very well prepped. Is there a coating I can use to keep the fossil looking wet? I’m looking to try this on trilobites in particular.
  23. I had the pleasure of attending the recent Penn Dixie Dig With The Experts and had the opportunity to catch up with some old collecting friends and make some new ones. As one of the people helping out collectors and cutting a heck of a lot of bugs out of rock for people I had the opportunity to see most of the really awesome bugs found that weekend. Without a doubt this one found by Scylla's son was one of the best and one of the rarest finds to be had a Penn. Gus and his son were kind enough to trust me with their prize find. The bug was damaged a bit and split between two sides of the matrix. I will look at repairing some of this at the end of the prep. Regardless this is a huge bela and has remarkable preservation. This is being prepped with relatively low PSI dolomite / sodium bicarbonate mix with some minimal scribing using a Pferd MST-31 with fine stylus. At the point of this picture I have already trimmed down the counter part to make it ready for reassembly. Reassembly was by super thin cyano acrylate clamped for 24 hours
  24. Compressor for prep?!

    Well this year I've started collecting items to begin preparing crabs and trilobites. Obviously the crab nodules are a bit tougher than the trilobites so I'll need to take that into consideration. I recently purchased a CP9361 for a pretty good deal and also have a decent microscope with 20x magnification. I'll build an air cabinet for micro blasting later and then pickup a medium hopper and micro sand blaster for trilobites eventually but I'm going to start off preparing crab nodules which is why I went for the CP9361. Also probably going to pickup a long 2" tungsten point tip for the CP9361 as their stock tip isn't that good (or so I've heard). I work at my nearby museum preparing a Barosaurus and they use everything from the ARO (couldn't find one of those), ME9100, Micro Jacks, and the CP9361. The museum curator advised going with the CP because they are cheaper and he said he's never had one break down on him and he's had a couple ME9100 break down. So now I have to look ahead and decide what compressor to get! I'll probably be preparing fossils for no more than 2-3 hours at a time but want to be prepared just in case. Everyone who is experienced at preparing on this forum suggests prepping for as long as possible to avoid shutting the compressor on and off thereby fluctuating the hardwares air regulation system. A few things to keep in mind when working on fossils for a long time with a compressor as your power source: * Avoid oil lubricated compressors as the oil can leak from your air line to the fossil. * Go with a compressor that outputs at least 90-110 PSI since most scribes operate at this level. Also make sure it outputs at least 2 CFM (cubic feet per minute). Most tools I've observed require about 1 CFM but it's always good to have more in case you want to use your compressor for other things or more heavy duty tools. * Go with a compressor that holds 20 gallons of air or more if you're going to be working on fossils for a while. Here's a couple I had my eye on: 15 Gallon Dewalt: https://www.lowes.ca/air-compressors-kits/dewalt-16-hp-15-gal-200-psi-portable-electric-air-compressor_g1335346.html @Malcolmt didn't you say you had one like this? This one is 15 gallons and I thought you recommended 20 gallons? Thanks. 27 Gallon Dewalt: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-27-gal-200-PSI-Portable-Vertical-Electric-Air-Compressor-DXCM271-COM/303655008?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-206796177-_-303655008-_-N 20 Gallon Husky: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-Gal-175-PSI-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-C201H/206189626 10 Gallon California Air Tools: https://www.homedepot.com/p/California-Air-Tools-10-Gal-2-0-HP-Ultra-Quiet-and-Oil-Free-Electric-Air-Compressor-10020C/206644539?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-206796177-_-206644539-_-N Probably won't go with 10 gallon as that won't produce enough air for longer preps. As long as the compressor runs continuously for a few hours that should be sufficient. I'm leaning towards the more expensive 27 gallon Dewalt because it has such a good rating and a bigger tank then the 15 gallon Dewalt or 20 gallon Husky. I'm a bit surprised both the 27 and 15 gallon Dewalts are priced the same from two different stores. What are your thoughts here? Obviously I'll get the three year warranty with this unit. Can't skimp on that!
  25. CP air scribe?

    Finally gonna start acquiring some air prep tools (scribe and abrasive) to better my prepping. My question at this point is this, on the CP brand air scribes, can you use other tips? Have seen here where sometimes a longer or different shaped tip is useful but didn't see in the Amazon description that the tips are changeable. Looking at the CP9160 scribe. So glad I found this group. Already learned much