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Found 235 results

  1. Hello community, A friend of mine recently gifted me this keichousaurus. But as you can see the Preperation is not the cleanest/nicest. Can I as an amateur fix this by myself or make it look cleaner and nicer? I also had the Idea that I maybe could work from the other side with Acid layer by layer. Then I could also be able to see the upper side of the specimen rather than its belly. Or would that not work/ be to risky? Isbthe rock maybe to thin? Can i as an amateur who never worked on a fossil with acid before make that or is it generally not possible?
  2. I know that a trilobite in limestone is found by breaking the rock, seeing its cross section in the pieces, and noting where it is. Then it is prepared by gluing the rocks back together and using jacks and air abrasion tools to remove the rock. My question: What sort of glue is used when gluing the rock back together? What set time does it have?
  3. Hello everyone! I recently received this cool fossil from the Devonian in Scotland, it is a Palaeospondylus gunni: I have seen fossils of this enigmatic organism prepared in really wonderful ways to expose more of the animal and I was wondering: would this be possible to do here? I am not exactly sure of the process used on the others, possibly just really fine air abrasion? The fossil seems to be rather thin against the rock but it isn't completely flat, here are some pictures I took under the digital microscope, hopefully they might show it a bit better. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am happy to provide more pictures if necessary. Thank you for your time!
  4. Hello friends! I am experimenting this period with my new Haufwerk W224 air scribe. It is recommended as ideal for beginners and rated for medium to fine preparation. My first lab rat turned out above my expectation. First attempt was done without press. regulator and without filter, since I did not know I needed these. Lab rate Prior preparation and After. Soft limestone for your reference. After having finished the above and onwards I work with pressure regulator (never above 5bar~70psi) and water separating filter to ensure I am using dry air. The next one turned out really bad. One side was already exposed 100% due to weather erosion. The other side was fully covered except the edge. The beginning seemed promising. The first material was removed around 2 o'clock and started chipping away easily. After that I lost my path completely. I couldn't define what is material to remove and what is ammonite. The stone is quite hard limestone from the Jurassic of Bulgaria, Ammonitico Rosso. I believe that with air abrasion with hard material the result would be totally different, but I do not have yet this set up.
  5. Cifelli, R., Madsen, S.K. and Larson, M.E., 1996. Techniques for recovery and preparation of microvertebrate fossils (No. 4). Oklahoma Geological Survey. http://preparation.paleo.amnh.org/assets/Madsen1996Microvertebratepreparation.pdf https://www.researchgate.net/publication/259022020_Techniques_for_Recovery_and_Preparation_of_Microvertebrate_Fossils https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Richard_Cifelli/research Hibbard, C.W., 1949. Techniques of collecting microvertebrate fossils. Contributions of the Museum of Paleontology, University of Michigan 3 ( 2 ) : 7-19, illus https://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/bitstream/handle/2027.42/48245/ID084.pdf;sequence=2 https://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/handle/2027.42/48245 Schiebout, J.A., Ting, S. and Sankey, J.T., 1998. Microvertebrate concentrations in pedogenic nodule conglomerates: Recognizing the rocks and recovering and interpreting the fossils. Palaeontologia Electronica, 1(2), pp.1-54. https://palaeo-electronica.org/content/1-2-microvertebrate-concentrations http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.581.964&rep=rep1&type=pdf Yours, Paul H.
  6. Acid Prep

    This could possibly be a random incoherent thought bubble, but here goes anyway. I was reading another thread which mentioned acid prep as the way to go for a particular item and then was proceeded by a bunch of professional preparators (that I repsect) being scared of the prospect of attempting it themselves. This really bothered me. I know I have a wealth of experience preparing far surpassing what a normal fossil aficionado would have, and I have always thought of acid as a tool in my bag and not something to be scared of. I am not a professional preparator, though I may be as close as one could be without being one. Absolutely it takes knowledge and safety and time. But it is no reason to scare our community away from it. Some of the best specimen have been prepared this way. There are two instances where I have used acid extensively. 1. Pennsylvanian stromatolites containing terrestrial vertebrate material. (Hamilton quarry in Kansas) 2. Brazilian fish nodules. Given exposure to other materials, that list might expand quite a bit but I generally stay in the lane of terrestrial vertebrates. My studies were generally only in that area. The setup is simple. 1. Make sure you are working in a ventilated area. You either need a lab hood or a private outdoor location (I do have the benefit of living in a sparsely populated area, my preference was to build a 'covered' workbench that holds several acid baths). 2. Protect yourself, wear gloves and a mask appropriate for your acid. I generally worked with 10% acetic. Note: Test, test, test, find practice pieces to get your exact acid strength and boundary agent defined. 3. The process is daily and repetitive. Don't do acid prep while you are traveling/not home. 4. Coat exposed fossil in acetone & polystyrene mixture or other appropriate material (you are creating a boundary between the fossil and the acid but not the matrix you want to remove). 5. Drop matrix in acid bath. 6. Remove matrix daily, wash and repeat 4 & 5. 7. Stop when you are happy. Please professionals, correct me where I am wrong. In my opinion, anyone who has done a chemistry 101 class should have the skills/knowledge to do acid prep. A few google searches should fill any holes that are lacking. Absolutely choosing the right acid for your particular piece takes some research, but it shouldn't be something we are scared to attempt. Absolutely safety should be first. Absolutely you should have practice pieces before attempting something major/important. I don't think we consider acid preparation enough, myself included, My default is mechanical removal followed by air abrasion. But when we have a case that screams acid prep, we should have the tools, knowledge, and expertise(and probably some technical forum thread) to deal with it. If we aren't using this forum to document our techniques and expertise for the next generation of preparators, what's the point? I learned from Orville Bonner at KU in the last few years of his working life, he may have trained 5 other people in his lifetime. How is that advancing our field? I think it is barely sustaining the practice. The knowledge will disappear if we do nothing. Currently, I work as an IT architect. My job is to listen to the needs of a project and find the appropriate solution. Fossils are no different. We all want the answer/solution first, this is the current society/culture: immediate gratification. We need to remember to listen to the needs of the specimen, have the wisdom to choose the right solution, and the knowledge to perform the proper technique. Please add your thoughts and experience. P.S. I may have inspired myself to 3D acid prep some Brazilian fish this summer.
  7. I had an issue with my Paasche AECR remote canister where the flow of abrasive (bicarb) was very inconsistent. I had to shake the canister manually every minute or so, and the flow was much more abrasive right after I shook the van because more bicarb was floating in the air, decreasing abrasive ness until I would have to shake it again a minute later. This led to very inconsistent prep results. I decided I needed to take some sort of vibrating device and attach it to the canister containing the abrasive so that it would constantly shake bicarb into the air to be run through the air abrasive system. I settled on an old vibrating head scratcher. I removed the wiring from the device. I built a small wooden box to house it to dampen the vibrations so that the whole prep station would not vibrate, just the canister. I put a towel in the box to further dampen the vibrations. It worked like a charm! The system now runs with a consistent flow of abrasive when I turn the head scratcher on, and I never have to shake the canister manually. I cannot feel the vibrations from the device at all because the towel and box keep them contained. Below are photos of the whole process.
  8. Hello all. Does anybody know the best way to preserve a 'Tully monster' specimen. I recall once reading that the surface often needs to be coated with a preservative against oxidizing, etc. One of my specimens has a tiny bit of red on the one eye, which I don't recall being there last year. Please see photos; advice deeply appreciated.
  9. Diplomystus

    My latest completion. I like this one but still prefer the Mioplosus. I'm looking for a Priscacara next. Maybe Santa will bring me a fossil for Christmas!
  10. A few crinoids

    I preface this by saying I'm not a crinoid collector, nor someone who has the foggiest idea of how to prep them effectively. If I encounter one that looks relatively complete, I'll bring it home. I focus prep on trilobites mostly, and there is a thread where I park those. It's been a busy week at the bench, and I thought I'd close it out with one finished piece, and one that is halfway done. First up is the finished piece. I didn't take a before photo for some reason, but these appear as faint traces in this material. This one is an Ectenocrinus. It already had some damage in the field up at the arms.
  11. Fossil Tooth Tip Restoration?

    Hello, I have a large canine tooth (~14 cm with the root, ~6.5 cm with just the tooth) from the White River Formation that I collected this summer on privately held land in northeastern Colorado, and though the fossil in its natural state is fantastic as-is I’m thinking about doing a little bit of restoration on the fossil and am looking for some insights. The tooth itself is from either an entelodont or the rhino Metamynodon, with the shape of the tooth and root strongly suggesting the latter to me (feel free to speak out if you have an opinion one way or the other, though I’m not specifically asking for an ID in this thread). I found the tooth in several pieces and glued everything that I could find back together. I have most of the tooth, but only a small piece of the tip remains. Also, I have not glued the tooth back to its root, and instead simply display them together as if they were connected. I am thinking about restoring the rest of the tip by sculpting it in using paleosculp from Paleobond, using what piece of the tip there is as a guide. I am looking for any information anyone can give me on paleosculp and the process of restoring a fossil using this material. Would this be the correct product for the job? Is there anything I should know when working with the material? Is restoring the tip of this tooth even a good idea at all, or in the name of science should I leave it as I found it? I intend to leave the paleosculp unpainted for the purposes of not risking damage to the fossil and also making it obvious which pieces of the fossil are original (most of it) and which pieces are restoration (just a little section of the tip). I understand that dinosaur teeth are frequently restored in this way, but I want to make sure that I’m not committing blasphemy by doing such a restoration. Also, paleosculp is advertised as being sand-able and drill-able after it dries, and so I figure if the restoration ever needs to be removed for whatever reason it could be sanded away in a labor-intensive process, but do let me know if this is not the case. I also intend to clean the fossil up a bit more (ie get rid of some of the residual dirt still on it) and potentially glue the tooth onto the root. Thank you for any insights and information you may have! Picture of the fossil and of the tooth tip provided for context.
  12. Latest project

    From the album Winter Hobby

    This has become very addicting. I've been using an art gum eraser with a bit of success. I'm hearing that a micro abrasion tool is the next "tool" to invest in if I want to take this to the next level. They seem a bit pricy and cumbersome. Any thoughts?
  13. Hi guys! I am not sure if anyone has encountered such fossils before but when collecting fossils at the Salons Formation in PA this summer I found this brachiopod: This brachiopod is nicely inflated and has great detail, one problem is that the surface of it is covered in this layer of limestone with patches of calcite. I would love to get rid of it but I am really not sure how to go about doing so. Here is an extra picture of how it looks up close: Any help would be appreciated, Thank you!
  14. Detail work

    Unlike the soft oil-shale, I've been preparing this Knightia from a much harder matrix. It's still oil-shale but doesn't seem to flake off as easily as the other. I love how I can see the specific bones and the scale is a bonus. Here is my question to the frum: The dental tool shown in the photo is what I've been using but it doesn't seem to be able to get that final bit of matrix off. It looks like it's covered in a thin layer of dust and I'm worried that if I scratch it off, I will lose much of the detail. How do I remove the final layer and get that dark brown carbon color that makes me proud to show off my work?!?
  15. New project

    I was warned that this can get addictive. My current project is 2 Knightia in oil shale. I'll post updates but I'm going slow on this one.
  16. Identifying

    I'm told the middle fish is a Knightia. Any ideas about what the other 2 are? Also, When I'm done preparing this, how can I darken the fossils and seal it up? It's in oil-shale. Thanks!
  17. Hi everyone, I've been a bit of a skulker on these forums so I will make my introduction brief and get to the pretty photos. I moved to New Mexico about 2 years ago and have been fossil hunting and rock hounding ever since. I've found some pretty awesome stuff, but this past weekend I really had my first major find, what I believe to be Coilopercas inflatum (see attached pictures). I have managed to get this specimen out of its surrounding matrix very nicely, and I would like to keep it whole and attached to the matrix base that it is currently on (the ammonite is actually detached from the matrix currently, but sits nicely in the fossil impression and my plan is to re-secure using cyanoacrylate gel once I have prepped the actual ammonite). My question is how should I deal with the white crust that is obscuring the ammonite structure? It is fairly soft, so I am wondering if a dilute acetic acid will take it off without damaging the underlying fossil. Secondly, how would one go about polishing this ammonite, and what varnish is typically used to keep it shining and protected from UV? Thanks for your help everyone! Really want to prep this one right!
  18. Removing hard matrix

    I dug this up in Wyoming and was told it's a Mioplosus. The soft sandstone came off with only a bit of effort. Now I'm on to a harder crystalized matrix around the most delicate areas. I don't want to lose any of the carbon so I'm asking for help. I've used dental tools and pen razors so far. I see amazing, beautifully completed fossils on this site with no sandstone on them at all. Is there a method or tool I am unaware of?
  19. Preparation tips - newbie

    Hello everyone. I'm sorry to bother you. I have a few ammonites and ammonite impressions from a trip. I was wondering if you have any suggestions in how to clean them. I'm afraid of destroying them in the process. Thank you.
  20. Prepping trilobites

    I got some trilobite fossils that i found many are possibly complete bodies but how do i prep them? How do i know where the body starts and ends? I kind of know where the body ends because of the size of the trilobites. But not really what way it goes in the rock. Up down the side? It also depends on the rock. Its not shale its limestone from kinnekulle. What really worries me are the rib things i Will use dental picks and small and other small sharp hand tools
  21. I am new to fossil preparation, I really want to prepare this echinoid I found on Jebel Hafeet, Al Ain, UAE. I have started prepping it with a small needle, since I don't have access to any fancy machines, but I think I just ended up damaging the fossil. The rock seems to be a type of clay, not too hard. It might also be limestone, since the area is known for its shallow marine sedimentary rocks. Should I soak it in water? Or vinegar? Should I have a go at it with my dremel?
  22. I have a nice selection of various species of Ammonite from cowboy pass, Utah. I’ve been sitting on them for a year as I have no clue how to prepare the ones that have the very hard encrustations. Wire wheels had little effect. I’m thinking something more aggressive on the bench grinder... last year I saw some prepped on here, but was no info on technique. And I cannot seem to find that thread now... will post photos when not on mobile!
  23. A cute little kettneraspis

    I have not posted anything for quite a while as I have been very busy doing prep for a number of dealers and a major Museum. Unfortunately without their permission I cannot post what are some spectacular pieces. I figured I deserved to do a piece for myself for a change. Started this one on the Sep. 19th and finished this afternoon. I did not really track the time but probably in the 6 to 8 hour range. Unfortunately the fellow that split the rock in Morocco was not the gentlest on the bug. The matrix was in three pieces before I glued it back together. There is no restoration or coating on this Kettneraspis (Leonaspis)at this point in time... Might do a tiny bit of restoration on the join line but have not made that decision yet. Let me know if you would do any restoration on this one. The preparation was with a COMCO MB1000 at about 20PSI using 40 micron dolomite mostly with .018 .015 and .010 nozzles. The scribes used on this one were HW-10, Pferd MST-31, CP 9361, and HW322. All preparation was done under an Olympus SZ3060 Zoom scope. As many of you know I never prep anything without a scope. The matrix was put back together with super thin cyano acrylate and was clamped for 24 hours before starting prep The bug is 24.3mm long 24.07mm wide The first two pics are as it is sitting right now (potentially completed) and the ones before are taken during the prep. The difference in matrix color is due to indoor versus outdoor pics The reddish matrix pics were taken outside. Not the greatest pics just with my phone.
  24. Sizing Compressor for Prep Lab

    Looking for some assistance and guidance. I have spent countless hours reading posts about fossil preparation and specifically about fish prep. The knowledge shared here is humbling to say the least. So here goes: If your end goal is to be able to do all the things necessary for 18" layer Green River material, split fish Green River material, Hell Creek material; how big of a compressor should I start thinking is overkill? The smallest capacity I've considered is 20 gallons, the largest 80. I'm just wondering what people are using in terms of capacity and if I'm better off going bigger for future growth of my needs, or for example a 27 gallon is all that I would ever need running 1 tool at a time. I very much appreciate any input!
  25. While I was prepping my first oreodont (his name is Charles ) I noticed something, there seems to be some puncture like fractures. There is a killer out there? My poor Charles has been killed? What do you think based on your experience?
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