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Found 24 results

  1. Here are three gorgeous megalodon teeth that @RJB collected over the years as a fossil vendor/collector. He asked me to restore them for him, and I was happy to take on the challenge. Here are the photos of the before and after. I hope you enjoy! -Matt
  2. This was one of the most difficult restorations i have ever done for color. The more unusual the color of a tooth, the longer it takes to restore, but also the greater the reward. I porbably spent 2-3 hours painting this one. I hope you enjoy!
  3. So I drew a paleo-reconstruction of a noteworthy but sparsely-known apex predator Temnodontosaurus eurycephalus, which was believed to be the top apex of the Early Jurassic until the rise of proto-pliosaurs like Rhomaelosaurus. Unlike its famous squid sucking sister T. platydon (metaphor, not literally), T. eurycephalus had a thick skull with deep jaws and large robust teeth suggesting a macropredatory diet and probably fed on other ichthyosaurs, plesiosaurs, and anything else that it could swallow (Also, growing lengths of over 30 feet, it probably could swallow everything other than another Temnodontosaurus) This is actually my first time finishing a paleo-reconstruction using only a pen tablet and photoshop (All my other drawings were either unfinished or done on paper). I used a Huion 1060PLUS drawing tablet and Photoshop CS6 to draw this. Took at least 3 hours to draw, and I heavily referenced the holotype skull to draw the head. Turned out pretty neat, but I don't know if I should color/shade this.
  4. This is my favorite restoration ever. I always find it easier to restore the root, so this was the perfect tooth for me. I have never seen a tooth with such incrediblle lines on the back of the enamel. some of the lines go diagonally to form a sort of grid. Let me know if you have any idea how that happened. I hope you enjoy!
  5. I received this little guy in the mail today from someone who felt sorry for the poor critter. This one quite truthfully needed a little love and care. Seems like someone in the field decided to dump about a gallon of glue on him. Apparently he was traded for sharks teeth or something like that. Not sure why anyone would trade a perfectly good arthropod for a tooth of all things. I guess it could have been worse, could have been for a brach... All kidding aside, the owner wanted this guy to be given back a little of its glory and splendor .......as you can see based on how it was received it needed a little help It was however quite obvious that this had a decent potential to be a good prone Penn Dixie trilo that was 39 mm in length and 24 mm wide. I was feeling a little bored and thought why not just get this one done and surprise the owner with something much faster than my normal slow turnaround. Besides this one was not going to be overly complex. The matrix was a known quantity and the phacopids are not that elaborate or delicate...... The first thing that was done was to trim off the excess matrix that was still around and under the bug with a Pferd MST31 air scribe. The goal being to get it into a more uniform place. Next step was to go through my piles of incomplete material from the same location (Penn Dixie) and find a piece of matrix that has a space available on it where this bug could take up residence. A piece was found that had a nice cluster of incomplete eldredgeops rana. Paired up with this bug I thought it might make an interesting piece. Here is the bug placed on that matrix after a pocket was created for the bug to spend the rest of eternity in. The matrix removed from the pocket was ground up and mixed with some Welbond Pro which dries quickly and is perfectly clear when dry. For those who need to know the mixture was about 60% pulverized matrix and 40% Welbond. Total time spent on the piece about 30 minutes at this point Here is the bug after 1 hour of prepping under a scope at about 10x magnification. Prepped with 40 micron dolomite with a .018 nozzle and using a COMCO air abrasion unit at 30 PSI. No airscribe was used once the bug was on the matrix. Here is the bug after a final 1/2 hour of prepping. Some minor restoration of field damage was performed with a two part sculpting product (Apoxie) and some mars black acrylic for coloration was used on perhaps 1% of the fossil. Not bad for perhaps three hours total investment. A piece that was pretty much a non displayable specimen can now be the centerpiece of a Penn Dixie collection PS.... don't always assume that when you purchase a plate of trilobites that that is the way they started out life. By the way this was done with the permission of the owner and they are not being tricked into thinking this is the way it started out.
  6. Rhino Jaw Repair

    Next prep job is a major repair. This poor jaw discovered what happens when potential energy is converted to kinetic energy! It needs some serious oral work. I'm using PVA adhesive where possible and Paleobond where I have to. Most of the bone is very porous so the PVA will hold well once set (it takes several hours). Here's the jaw after an hour of consolidation and piecing back together. Later today, or tomorrow, I'll continue the gluing process. Originally, this jaw was put together with something like Gorilla Glue and it's all over the place in one side. Once I have it back together, I'll scribe off the glue and do some restoration on the cracks.
  7. Hi everybody, I'm a fossil freak from Germany and while all kind of fossils are fascinating to me, my main focus is on vertebrates. Since a while I'm looking for a nice, large Spinosaur tooth and just found an attractive looking one on an auction site. The seller mentions a repair near the tip. I guess it's the reddish, smooth part which is visible on the first photo. I could just deal with that if the rest of the tooth would be fine. Are there any other repairs or restorations, what do you guy think? Thanks for your opinion!
  8. Just received pictures of my Cuban megalodon tooth that is nearly finished being restored. The tooth is one of the nicest I have ever seen. Here are before and after pictures.
  9. Hi everyone, Here are multiple repairs I just made to megalodon teeth. For some of them I forgot to take before pictures, The blue tooth has a completely reconstructed left side of the root, and a chunk of the blade and enamel are repaired.
  10. Hello all! This is my newest attempt at restoring a megalodon tooth. I got this tooth as an absolute bargain on ebay for $5.50. PM if you are looking to sell/give away any teeth like this. it is over 5 inches!
  11. Hi everyone, I recently acquired this big megalodon tooth and I was wondering if it is possible to restore a tooth with this much damage? I was also wondering if people had any recommendations on where I could possibly send it to get it restored at a reasonable price.
  12. Hi everyone, I've had a couple people lately asking me how I restored the megalodon tooth I posted about a couple years ago here. I decided to pick out a damaged tooth on Ebay for $15, and take you through it step by step. Here we go! What You'll Need: PaleoBond Sculp Hardener and PaleoBond Sculp Resin (You can substitute with epoxy putty but dries faster and is less malleable) X-Acto Knife Wire brush or any brush with very stiff bristles Any brand of acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby or Michaels (specific colors listed further below) A small paintbrush of reasonable quality Fine sandpaper and steel wool SITUATIONAL: Clear gloss used for acrylic paint Step 1: Examine the fossil and the damage. This is the bargain tooth I purchased. It's over 5 inches, and you can see it's actually in nice condition minus the chunk missing. The broken edge is still sharp and jagged, so it appears that the damage occurred recently as opposed to millions of years ago. To fix this tooth I will need to recreate parts of the root, bourlette and enamel. Since the tooth has fairly nice detail I will definitely need my razor blade to create fine lines and serrations. Step 2: Prepare and apply the putty Pull out a small chunk of putty from both the PaleoBond Hardener and Resin containers. Knead them together with your hands until the colors mix completely. Mix thoroughly otherwise the putty will be squishy in some places and will not harden properly. Once mixed, take a very small piece from your ball of putty and mash it into the damaged area of your tooth. Step 3: Building your shape Less is more when you're working with putty. Smaller pieces are much easier to manipulate, so build gradually piece by piece. You may get to a point where you're putty structure is not stable enough to continue building on. Take a break for 2-3 hours to let the putty dry and come back. When building the root of my example tooth, I had to take two or three breaks in order to get a foundation sturdy enough for me to continue building up. Pay attention to how your repair is taking shape and keep the edges of your putty level with the natural edges of the tooth. This is one of the most difficult parts of the repair, but it makes a big difference when you get it right. Wash your hands every once in a while to keep them from getting to tacky and sticking to your putty. Step 4: Begin to work in detail As your repair begins to fill out, work in natural-looking cracks and lines with your X-Acto knife and fingernails. Mimic the natural aspects of your tooth as best as you can. When repairing my tooth's root, I created fissures and cracks that matched up with the real side of the tooth. This really helped create the illusion that the repair is natural. To mimic the heavily detailed surface of the tooth's root, I gently pushed my wire brush into the surface multiple times. Try to do this when your putty is still wet because if the putty is dry it takes much more effort. ALSO, make sure to keep the putty very smooth in areas of enamel (excluding line/crack detail). Once the putty dries, take some fine sandpaper and smooth it out further. Steel wool can then be used to make the surface even smoother. (Thanks to steelhead9 for those two tips!) Be very anal retentive about this. You will appreciate it in the next step. Step 5: Paint! This is my favorite part because it's the point in this process where the repair finally comes to life! It also happens to be the most frustrating part. Depending on your tooth's coloring you will likely need the following colors in your arsenal: Umber Black White Sienna (maybe) Red (maybe) Blue (maybe) This step is where perfectionism (making the putty super smooth in areas of enamel) really pays off. Paint highlights the imperfections of your putty, so don't be disappointed or surprised if you have to start over. I started over probably two or three times. As far as painting technique, I would love to give more instruction, but that is really an entire lesson in itself. Don't be afraid to paint a little onto the actual fossil. You will need to do this in order to properly camouflage the merged area of putty and tooth. In fact, don't be afraid to overlap your putty a millimeter or so onto the tooth as well. My biggest tip though is make sure you paint in a well lit room. Painted colors can look spot-on until you step into good lighting... Step 6: Apply a finish depending on your tooth Some teeth with top-quality enamel will need a glossy finish applied in order for the repair to look natural. My tooth did not require a high-gloss coat. Either way, you ought to apply some kind of light finish to your tooth in order to preserve the repair from scratches and humidity. I have not yet found the perfect finish to do the job, and am still experimenting with spray finish, clear acrylic gloss, clear furniture gloss, low-gloss nail polish, etc. Feel free to add your thoughts and recommendations below! Below you can see my repaired tooth. The root could use a bit more texture and the enamel and bourlette are a little rough in places. Overall, I'm happy with the result though. I hope these instructions were helpful! If anything is unclear or too general I'd be glad to elaborate further. Good luck!!!! Your Fellow Fossil-Fanatic, Lauren
  13. Phytosaur Prep

    Now that Snollyfish and the Oreodont Smoothie are done, the next project is another fine specimen belonging to our very own @StevenJDennis. I swear, he has all the luck and a collection to rival the Smithsonian's. This little baby is a nice phytosaur snout. It has really brittle teeth and hard matrix (exciting combination), so fast removal with the CP9361is out. The Aro is almost too much and I'm having to be extremely careful around the teeth with liberal use of PVA consolidation. It has had previous "restoration" done with what appears to be wood filler on several breaks. Thankfully, it appears to be holding on well so I'll only mess with it to finish it up. Here's a pic of it before work started. And, here's how it sits currently after 4 hours of prep. The distal end will eventually be reattached.
  14. Hello everyone, I've got a Megalodon tooth that I restored and posted on here a couple of weeks ago, and I'm wondering how I might preserve the restoration I did. I used acrylic paint, and I want to apply something really subtle over the paint in order to protect it. I've tried gloss finish, but as you would expect...it's too glossy. I need something that won't take away from what's there already and will not be noticeable. As you can see in the pics I've attached, the tooth has a nice shine but is not super glossy. Can anyone help me with this? Your advice would be much appreciated! Thanks, Lauren
  15. I brought this tooth back from Cuba last week and would like forum members opinion, should I have it restored or left as is? Do you think restoration would increase or decrease value? The tooth is 5.81"
  16. I was thinking of starting a side business of helping collectors by restoring teeth, claws, and alike. would anyone trust a business like this? I have had a bit of experience restoring mosasaur, horse, and spinosaurus teeth previously. Is this enough to even start a small business?
  17. Alethopteris Serlii Restoration

    I haven't really been on here in awhile. But I decided to join the land of the living once more and start doing what I love again. I had found this nodule at Fossil Rock a few weeks ago. Several freeze/thaw cycles later here she is. I knew I could clean it up and make it look presentable, so I took on the challenge. Plus it is my biggest specimen of A.serlii to date. Here she is glued back together. Then she needed a good soaking in vinegar. Sometimes I won't clean the Calcite off. But in this case it was covering most of the fine detail, so I did. Here she is cleaned and with a bit of prep work. Then I decided to restore it a bit using Magic Sculpt. Filling cracks adds stability as well as makes it pleasing to the eye. Continued......
  18. Spino-Resto

    Call it what you may, but i decided to be cheap and cheat a little. I've always wanted a big honkin' dino tooth in my collection, but like most i don't have $1,000+ burning a hole in my pocket. So i bought the fattest, longest and cheapest tooth i could find. $150 Spinosaurus it is (no shocker). It was 4 1/2" when i bought it, and in really rough shape. Moroccan sand glue everywhere, thick clear epoxy gushing from the repaired cracks and enamel missing in spots. And whom ever decided to "clear" it, must of been a cat hoarder, because there was hair everywhere. Here she is, fresh from the bubble wrap I started by dremeling most of the sand glue i could find (I kept a bit on for character). Then i cleaned up any messy seams and got rid of the cat coat. Next i whipped out the ol' Magic sculpt epoxy and started sculpting. This was a bit tougher then i had anticipated. Given the volume of the area, detail that needed to be crafted and the soft nature of the Magic Sculpt it went slow. I did however find a trick to harden the epoxy temporarily for more control for detail. Stick it in the freezer! It doesn't really harden, it just stiffens up. I tried my best to not inflate the size of the tooth and i did my best to follow the natural lines. After it was sculpted and dry, i took my trusty dremel and fine tuned the striations and cleaned up any bumps, lumps or anything else unpleasing to the eye. Here she is sculpted Next was the paint. Oh the paint. Being severely color blind i just had to guess. It's a shame really, but what am i going to do?! In my eyes it looks pretty darn good, to you i don't know..... YOU let ME know. Being a perfectionist, I've learned in some cases (such as this) being imperfect is perfect. Being a bit "sloppy" and "erratic" with my colors makes it look more authentic. When the paint dried, i cleared it. This is important, because it blends my restoration epoxy into the real deal, forever camouflaging my devious deception. Here she is all ready for her close up She was 4 1/2" and worth $150 Now she's 5 3/4" and worthless! Hahahaha! Edit: added another pic
  19. Hi! I recently posted about two weeks ago asking for techniques on repairing a 6' megalodon tooth. I only had about 60% of the tooth to work with, so my intent was to recreate the missing section. I received helpful feedback and support from fossil forum members, and I've finally taken a crack at it. I am pretty excited with how it's coming along, so thought I'd share my progress. Aside from a shattered triceratops rib, this is the only fossil repair I've ever done. I'm still finishing up the back half of the tooth as well as adding more detail to the front (trying to better hide the split). Please let me know what you think and any further advice you may have! Also, in case anyone is interested, the materials I have used so far are: Metal repair epoxy Wood repair epoxy Acrylic paint Clear gloss top-coat Thumb-tack Thanks!! Lauren
  20. Im looking to restore a few of my very delicate Mazon Creek fossils and im looking for something that can be sculpted but will harden over time without baking. I'm trying to fill small cracks, tiny voids and sculpt very detailed missing parts. I'll post some pics a bit later of what pieces im talking about, so you can get some insight of what im trying to do. Thanks, Charlie
  21. I Think I Have A Broken Rib...

    So, I got a call from a collector about this "little" triceratops rib. Apparently, her cat decided it looked better on the floor than on its display stand! Boy was it in bad shape... On top of it all, the bone was very unstable and just touching it caused pieces to crumble off. So, I gave it the full treatment... 1. Paleo Bond stabilizer on the breaks as an adhesive. 2. A healthy dose of thinned PVA to soak in and stabilize the bone. 3. Magic Sculpt epoxy clay to fill the new cracks 4. A bit of custom acrylic paint to disguise the needed restoration
  22. I have a very large Mammoth tooth that came with a large lot of fossils I purchased. It's not in the best shape but definately recognizable. Unfortunately one of the scales has separated from the rest of the tooth and it has also broken in two pieces. It may have previously been broken and fixed (may also be fixed along other scales, too, I can't be sure). What is the best way to: (1) repair the scale to make it whole (2) reattach the scale to the tooth (3) any other sealing, cleaning, or work that can be done to stabilize the tooth Please see the pictures (grid is 1" spacing), and ask me any questions- I appreciate any response or advice!!
  23. Restoration Techniques

    I have been looking at a post today regarding a fossil fish and shrimp plate from Lebanon. The shrimp had been drawn around in pencil to make it stand out from the rock (although i suspect it had some bits drawn on) at the fish on the same plate looked to have been inked. It got me thinking how much restoration work I do on my own fossils, and I was wondering about techniques people have for restoring their own fossils. As this is a part of the process that people tend not to talk about. The nature of how fossils are collected (14lb sledge hammer for large ammonite blocks) lends itself to the preparator having to get to grips with certain techniques regarding restoration. When is restoration called for? If it is just for aesthetics, what are peoples thoughts on this? One thing I hate to see is fossils that have been restored but are stated in the description as being 100% genuine. I was helping a friend in his workshop and he had a consignment of Moroccan pieces to clean up from a wholesaler. Some of the pieces were laughable, a lump of rock with no end of stuck together ammonites just glued all over it. Still makes me chuckle now. What materials do people use and on what type of fossils? When restoring fossils of bone I use 2 part car body filler. You can mix a little gouache in with it to match the colours roughly, it sets very quickly and can be carved and sanded very easily and unlike different type of putty it will never fall out. I prefer not to use any filler in my work if I can get away with it. I like the 'as fossilised' natural look of pieces. Preserving and presenting fossils. I use artists varnish, uv stable and does not colour over time, used for protecting paintings. Any filler will need touching in, What types of paints do people use? I know some prefer acrylic over oils, what have people found that works best? Just some thoughts. Dan
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