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Found 41 results

  1. New Member

    Hi, I have been a mineral specimen collector and have dabbled a bit in fossils for fun. I recently acquired a fossil and was seeking some advice. This piece still needs some work and restoration and I was wondering if anyone knew someone who could help me out. I am pretty sure it is a protoceratops skull. Still lots of loose pieces that need to be added to it. I am in Atlanta. Attached is a picture. I can send more. Thanks for any help or advice. Demetrios
  2. Not the best greenops ever

    About a month ago I went to Penn with two fossil buddies and they both found prone greenops. Sadly I did not find one. However both of these greenops were split between the positive and negative and probably were missing some skin as the material was quite flaky. For one of my friends this was his first ever find of a prone greenops. Prone greenops that are nicely laid out are a very rare find in the Windom shale. Most of the ones I have found from there or others that I have prepped for people are fully, partially enrolled or distorted. So to my fossil buddy this was a bit of a special find. We wrapped up the two pieces in tin foil in the field and I agreed to take it with me and prep it for him. Well zoom ahead a month in time and I am going out with him last week to collect and he asks how is his greenops coming, whereby I realize that I have not only not started it ,but in my senility had forgotten I had it and had no clue where it was. Well when I got home it turns out that I had never unpacked the bucket of fossils from that trip and low and behold his fossil was packed just as we had left it. A careful look at both parts under the scope confirmed my opinion that the bug was in pretty rough shape , but a prone greenops, not to mention perhaps his first ever prone warranted we attempt to bring it back to life. Unfortunately I did not take any pics until a ways into the prep but here is what I did to start. 1. Washed the mud off both plates scrubbing with a tooth brush 2. Squared up what would become the fossil plate with the diamond gas saw 3. Cut out as small as possible a square from the top piece of the matrix that contained the top part of the greenops using my 7 inch tile saw with diamond blade 4. On a belt sander using aluminum oxide 120 grit thinned the top piece as much as safely possible to help minimize my prep time later. 5. Using super thin cyanoacrylate glue reattached the top portion to the main slab clamping tightly with a c-clamp. Asusual all prep was done under a zoom scope at 10x to 20x magnification using a Comco abrasion unit and in this case a German Pferd MST 31 scribe exclusively.. Not a lot of scribing was done other than to outline the bug as the skin was not in great shape. Abrasion was pretty much done with a .18 and .10 nozzle using 40 micron previously used dolomite at 30 PSI. Here is the bug after about an our of prepping . I have outlined in red where you can still see the outline of the section that was glued down. A lot of people do not realize that many of the fantastic trilobites you see on the market have actually been glued back together because the splits are often through the bug. I once did a Moroccan trilobite that was in 7 pieces when I received it Here is the bug after another 40 minutes Took some pictures of the prep but frankly they ended up too blurry to use so here is the prep after abrasion is complete and after I have repaired a lot of the parts that broke of in the split. I tend to use a white repair material and always take a picture to let the owner know what has been repaired Here is the bug after coloration applied . The repairs were allowed to cure overnight before coloration and a bit of extra carving to clean up spots.Just waiting for me to do a final cleanup tomorrow after everything has cured a bit more. A long way from being the worlds most pristine or perfect bug but I am relatively pleased that we were able to breath some new life into an ailing bug. Totally prep time about 3 1/2 hours over 4 days. I suspect the owner will be pleased with the result. I have seen people toss bugs in the field that were in this type of shape. For those of you who just need to know the bug is 27mm x 18 mm A slightly different view
  3. Hi everyone- I have a juvenile mammoth tusk that I would like to learn how to stabilize and restore. The problem is I have (almost) no idea how to even start! The tusk is fully dried out, but it’s split down the middle. I need some advice! Here’s what I know has to be done: 1. Clean the outside and inside as much as possible without using water- any suggestions on what to use? 2. Superglue the two pieces together and use hose clamps to hold the two pieces together- any suggestions on glue/method? 3. Fill gaps/cracks with epoxy- any suggestions on a good type? 4. Sand sand sand! 5. Beyond this point I’m not sure- is there some sort of protective varnish people use? I’m sure I’m missing about a dozen crucial steps here- I have literally never tried anything like this before, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I posted some photos of the tusk, and I will post photos of progress! Thanks everyone.
  4. I was down in Florida in January to see family, and visit old friends I haven’t seen in 20 years. While out for dinner I showed them some pictures of my sharks teeth, and also pointed out that some had restoration. One of the people in the group happened to be an artist and was very intrigued with the fine details in the restoration work and asked if I could send her some cheap teeth so she could play around. I sent her 10 teeth, this tooth is the tenth tooth she has ever handled or worked on, and I am quite amazed at the work. Here are pictures of the finished tooth, I will post the before picture shortly. All feedback would be greatly appreciated so I can give it to the artist to help her get better.
  5. I purchased a unsightly Franken-Basilosaurus tooth a few weeks ago for pretty cheap. Seeing as though i don't have $400-700+ to spend on a nice basilosaurus tooth i saw potential and a fun project in this cheap ugly duckling. Yes, it's Moroccan. It came with the typical glue/sand mix covering it, filling all cracks, voids and roughing out transitions of deceptive franken composites. How it came: Ok, first things first. Clean it. I used acetone, a razor, a needle, a tooth brush and my engraver. Hours of delicate work later i finally see what i'm working with. After cleaning: Yeesh, this might be more work than i thought...... And someone composited a incisor or canine tooth tip on the top of my premolar!! Bwahahaha!! Ok, composites need to go. Bye, bye Next i noticed this was not lined up correctly when it was glued back together. So i grab my trusty dremel tool and proceed to carefully saw this baby in half. Then i removed most of the epoxy/sand glue from each side. Continued.........
  6. I know that Megalodon tooth more than 7 inch are scarce and command high premium. There is a seller who has a 7 inch Megalodon tooth. He sent me pictures of the same tooth before and after Restoration. I am attaching the photos of the same tooth before and after restoration (1-3 are UnRestored and 4 to 6 are Restored) The dimensions of the tooth after restoration: Long side 7 3/16'' (7.18 inches), short side 6 13/16" (6. 81 inches) and almost 5'' wide. I guess my question is 1. Could the tooth have been slightly less than 7 inches before restoration? 2. Does tooth restoration add any length to the tooth (Do people do that to tooth that are slightly less than 6 and 7 inches to bring it to 6 plus and 7 plus inches?) My main concern is what if the tooth was less than 7 inches before restoration.
  7. Greetings, I recently bought a beautiful Spinosaurus tooth that was previously restored as some parts were obviously broken and put together with some sort of brown putty which looks like dirt or rock fragments. The problem is that the tooth had an accident a few days ago (it fell from the stand) and it broke again. I put the parts together with super glue but the cracks are now wide and visible and I would like to hide them a little bit by using some putty or resin, I don't want the tooth to look perfect and unbroken, just to look like before it fell, like there is some dirt or rock fragments instead of cracks. Do you have any tip about how to do that? Any brown putty or resin? Thank you very much.
  8. Hello everyone. I would be wanting, since I did a tooth to tooth trade with an other person, to restore an albertosaurus tooth. I didn’t receive the tooth yet. I would be wondering if there are members or persons who could professionally restore my tooth. The only conditions is that the people restoring the tooth have to be in Europe and the restoration has to be relatively cheap because I’m a bit short right now... I will pay for the tooth to be shipped. Can you guys restore my tooth or do you know professional people who can? That would be great great help. Thanks so much
  9. Hi, I want to apologise if this is a silly question or if it has been talked about before, but a few of the fossils in my collection were commented by the seller as having filled fractures. I wanted to ask exactly what this means, like if it has matrix/sand added to stabilise the fossil or if some composition has occurred (or if the entire fossil is one natural piece), and if this is a normal practice for fragile fossils. Thanks.
  10. Repairing Fossils In Shale

    Recently, I have been out fossil hunting more often than usual, and many of them have since been damaged. Some were broken during transportation, and others were broken as I excavated them. The fossils are all from the black Billings Shale, which fractures easily. Is there any way that I can repair them without leaving any obvious markings?
  11. Bought this off an auction site from what I thought (and maybe is) an honest seller. Asked twice if there was ANY restoration done. Said no. The long side measures 6.12" The tooth weights 13 oz, which seems like for a tooth of this size..but...who knows. I worry that the tips of the roots were restored to add some length to push it over 6". The ends of the root almost seem like a different matte, or color black. But also, this could be because the angle changes there, and the light changes...not sure. Also, maybe the enamel? I also bought a cheap UV flashlight and nothing really stands out when I look at it....but I admit I don't know what I am looking for. I am completely new to the Meg/fossil world. Here are the pics. Thank yoU!
  12. Hi all, there are many dinosaur eggs being sold online now, especially on our favorite auction site. One of the most prominent egg dealers there is known for selling composite or fake eggs, mixed in with real eggs. We have TFF members who've fallen victim to him already. This hadrosaur egg here is a composite of real eggshells stuck onto what seems like mud/matrix, then molded into the shape of a real egg. This is what a true hadrosaur egg looks like: As you can see, there's no matrix between the eggshells. You can see lines running throughout the egg, and most importantly, the eggshells look as though they can be pried out. Dino eggs are one of the most desirable fossil in the market, but also among the most commonly faked one. Take your time, and do proper research. If unsure, post here in TFF, and we will do our best to help you identify it. Good luck. @HamptonsDoc
  13. Greetings, I recently bought an Heteromorph Ammonite fossil from Morocco (my first moroccan ammonite) and I decided to clean it with a little bit of water the same way I did with previous fossils. Big mistake... since I was shocked to see how the red ammonite turned brown and some parts disappeared (those put together with some sort of brown putty) when I put the ammonite under the water... After speaking with some fossil collectors I found out that many Heteromorph Ammonites from Morocco are indeed broken and put together, and they are sometimes "created" using the parts of different ammonites... You can see the ammonite before (the red one) and after (the brown one) and what I would like to know now is how to restore it please. What is the brown putty they used to put all the pieces together and how do they obtain that red colour? Is it totally necessary to use the same procedure? I've been creating and painting clay sculptures for years and I wonder now if using some clay and acrylic paintings would work... Thank you very much.
  14. Good morning. I live in Oregon and I am looking for people that can “Professionally” do fossil preparation and restoration. I have specimens that are still in their field jackets. I have some specimens that just need some touch up. I have contacts in other states that are more than qualified that I have used in the past. But it always makes me nervous shipping specimens anywhere to be honest. I have had femurs that were packaged extremely well and still showed up snapped in half. Or on the smaller boxes for like teeth or claws end up missing. To say the least, it’s very frustrating and nerve racking! So what I’m looking for is someone local that will do top end work. And I would prefer someone that will have references or even people on here that can back their abilities up from personal experience. I 100% understand that when you want top quality, you’re going to pay a price for that and that’s ok. I also understand that quality takes time to achieve. So just to be clear, I’m not one of those guys that’s going to drop off the specimen on Monday, and then call you on Friday and ask if it’s done yet. It gets done when it gets done. Obviously If we get to the sixth month mark, I’ll probably reach out to you to make sure everything is fine. So now for keeping the admins happy. I think you need to PM me your information and not publicly post it because they don’t want to have people doing any business advertising If I understand them correctly. But please feel free to publicly post that you are sending your information my way and that way If anyone on here has used your services, they can speak up. I think that part is okay per the admin. I’m sure they will let us know shortly if I was wrong. Thank you everyone ahead of time. Sincerely, J
  15. Just wondering if there my be a way to put together a list of people that do fossil preparation and restorations that are legit for each state. I know for myself that I have specimens that are in field jackets still that need work done to them. And you really don't want to have to try box these things up and mail them across the states. Not only is it expensive, but by the time it reaches it's destination, it's going to need even more restoration. It would be great to know if there are people in your local area that have the ability and skills to take on such task that can be trusted. There are plenty of hacks out there just like in every other kind of work. But if we could compile a list of documented people that have references and history to back there abilities up, that would be awesome. Just a thought.
  16. I am definitely an amateur when it comes to collecting and need some advice: I recently purchased my first 'larger' Spinosaurus tooth from a small gem/fossil shop in Seattle. The owner told me that it had no repairs or restorations, and that it of course came from Morocco. I tested the tooth under a UV flashlight and there were no anomalies, but I just wanted some more experienced opinions. The enamel looks good- no apparent cracks or suspicious color variations, root still has some of the matrix on it, but the tip seems a little suspicious to me... maybe I'm just being paranoid, but I have read so much about fake fossils and just want to be sure! Let me know what you guys think- Thanks!
  17. Hi guys, I'm a pretty experienced shark tooth collector. But I'm still a little paranoid when it comes to identifying repair/restoration, since I have seen a couple of exceptional restorations that would be very difficult for even a seasoned collector to identify. This is especially the case for restorations to the root; I think I can almost always tell restorations to the serrations and enamel. Does anyone have tips for identifying root restorations? Some people suggest looking at it under a black light, which I will of course do, but for root restos this doesn't always seem to be effective. This question comes up since I recently bought a very large Moroccan otodus (pic attached). I got it from a seller I trust not to knowingly misrepresent anything, but given the price I want to be very confident. Thank you.
  18. Can anybody please help me determine how much restoration has been done to these 2 teeth. Are the entire tips on these completely made up? The seller claims 100% authentic with only small glued and filled fractures. Does that appear to be true? To my untrained eye it looks like a lot more than that. The whole top 1/4 of the teeth seem replaced to me but like I said “untrained eye”. Any input would be appreciated.
  19. Cleaning Mammoth Tusk Pieces

    I just purchased some beautiful mammoth tusk pieces that I will hopefully restore into a tusk that will be at least 20 inches long down to within 2 inches of the tip (which is missing). It is a project I am working on with my daughter. I want to start by cleaning the pieces which are very dusty and dirty. I read to avoid water and maybe use rubbing alcohol but many of the pieces have a beautiful blue color to them and I am afraid of ruining that. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  20. First ever ammonite restoration

    Here is my first ever ammonite prep! Overall, I am pleased with how it turned out. I wanted to test how well my shark tooth restro experience would translate to other fossils. I got this lovely ammonite as part of a trade with @Ludwigia. I misplaced its ID so any ID help would be welcome as well.
  21. Here are three gorgeous megalodon teeth that @RJB collected over the years as a fossil vendor/collector. He asked me to restore them for him, and I was happy to take on the challenge. Here are the photos of the before and after. I hope you enjoy! -Matt
  22. So I drew a paleo-reconstruction of a noteworthy but sparsely-known apex predator Temnodontosaurus eurycephalus, which was believed to be the top apex of the Early Jurassic until the rise of proto-pliosaurs like Rhomaelosaurus. Unlike its famous squid sucking sister T. platydon (metaphor, not literally), T. eurycephalus had a thick skull with deep jaws and large robust teeth suggesting a macropredatory diet and probably fed on other ichthyosaurs, plesiosaurs, and anything else that it could swallow (Also, growing lengths of over 30 feet, it probably could swallow everything other than another Temnodontosaurus) This is actually my first time finishing a paleo-reconstruction using only a pen tablet and photoshop (All my other drawings were either unfinished or done on paper). I used a Huion 1060PLUS drawing tablet and Photoshop CS6 to draw this. Took at least 3 hours to draw, and I heavily referenced the holotype skull to draw the head. Turned out pretty neat, but I don't know if I should color/shade this.
  23. I received this little guy in the mail today from someone who felt sorry for the poor critter. This one quite truthfully needed a little love and care. Seems like someone in the field decided to dump about a gallon of glue on him. Apparently he was traded for sharks teeth or something like that. Not sure why anyone would trade a perfectly good arthropod for a tooth of all things. I guess it could have been worse, could have been for a brach... All kidding aside, the owner wanted this guy to be given back a little of its glory and splendor .......as you can see based on how it was received it needed a little help It was however quite obvious that this had a decent potential to be a good prone Penn Dixie trilo that was 39 mm in length and 24 mm wide. I was feeling a little bored and thought why not just get this one done and surprise the owner with something much faster than my normal slow turnaround. Besides this one was not going to be overly complex. The matrix was a known quantity and the phacopids are not that elaborate or delicate...... The first thing that was done was to trim off the excess matrix that was still around and under the bug with a Pferd MST31 air scribe. The goal being to get it into a more uniform place. Next step was to go through my piles of incomplete material from the same location (Penn Dixie) and find a piece of matrix that has a space available on it where this bug could take up residence. A piece was found that had a nice cluster of incomplete eldredgeops rana. Paired up with this bug I thought it might make an interesting piece. Here is the bug placed on that matrix after a pocket was created for the bug to spend the rest of eternity in. The matrix removed from the pocket was ground up and mixed with some Welbond Pro which dries quickly and is perfectly clear when dry. For those who need to know the mixture was about 60% pulverized matrix and 40% Welbond. Total time spent on the piece about 30 minutes at this point Here is the bug after 1 hour of prepping under a scope at about 10x magnification. Prepped with 40 micron dolomite with a .018 nozzle and using a COMCO air abrasion unit at 30 PSI. No airscribe was used once the bug was on the matrix. Here is the bug after a final 1/2 hour of prepping. Some minor restoration of field damage was performed with a two part sculpting product (Apoxie) and some mars black acrylic for coloration was used on perhaps 1% of the fossil. Not bad for perhaps three hours total investment. A piece that was pretty much a non displayable specimen can now be the centerpiece of a Penn Dixie collection PS.... don't always assume that when you purchase a plate of trilobites that that is the way they started out life. By the way this was done with the permission of the owner and they are not being tricked into thinking this is the way it started out.
  24. Rhino Jaw Repair

    Next prep job is a major repair. This poor jaw discovered what happens when potential energy is converted to kinetic energy! It needs some serious oral work. I'm using PVA adhesive where possible and Paleobond where I have to. Most of the bone is very porous so the PVA will hold well once set (it takes several hours). Here's the jaw after an hour of consolidation and piecing back together. Later today, or tomorrow, I'll continue the gluing process. Originally, this jaw was put together with something like Gorilla Glue and it's all over the place in one side. Once I have it back together, I'll scribe off the glue and do some restoration on the cracks.
  25. Hi everybody, I'm a fossil freak from Germany and while all kind of fossils are fascinating to me, my main focus is on vertebrates. Since a while I'm looking for a nice, large Spinosaur tooth and just found an attractive looking one on an auction site. The seller mentions a repair near the tip. I guess it's the reddish, smooth part which is visible on the first photo. I could just deal with that if the rest of the tooth would be fine. Are there any other repairs or restorations, what do you guy think? Thanks for your opinion!