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Carbide tips for Chicago 9361


Brian-miller

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Hey just a quick question so I've been hunting around and it seems like an air scribe is the way to go I found a brand new Chicago 9361 used and picked it up it has lots of carbide chisels and engraving tips but it has nothing with a  really sharp tip. Where do you find tips for these? That are more geared for fossil prep? I typically dont grab a tool before I know how to use it but it was 75$ from somone clearing out a shop and it had never been used. Also I'm in Canada if that makes much of a difference for retailers? 

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Hey Brian. Im going to follow this thread out of interest as I just bought a CP9361 as well.  Im in Cow Bay but up island regularly.

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Oh, that's the kind you've got? I've got one too but have never used it, but I understand it's more of a heavy-duty model, good for bulk matrix removal. For finer work you'll need something else, but I'll leave it to others with more experience to recommend what kind exactly.

@Malcolmt  @Ptychodus04

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I think paleo tools sells a replacement stylus for the CP9361. That’s a good scribe for general use work on larger specimens. It will remove some significant matrix. I have 2 smaller scribes for more detailed work but, depending on what you prep, this may be all you need.

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To the best of my knowledge, there are no Canadian retailers that sell parts for this unit. As Kris said above, your best bet is to consider PaleoTools (US), but be prepared to pay a high customs/duty that is sent as a separate invoice. An ARO-type scribe will be much better on finer details, although I've made do with the CP in a pinch (and being exceedingly careful).

...How to Philosophize with a Hammer

 

 

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You got a good deal.on the 9361.

I was able to find a new CP-9361-1 kit on Amazon.ca for $249 all in. It has a selection of points included. Other Cdn sources were at least 50% more expensive for the same. My 8315, and longer point, was ordered from All-Air Products for $155 USD. 

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Just now, Wxman said:

You got a good deal.on the 9361.

I was able to find a new CP-9361-1 kit on Amazon.ca for $249 all in. It has a selection of points included. Other Cdn sources were at least 50% more expensive for the same. My 8315, and longer point, was ordered from All-Air Products for $155 USD. 

Awesome I'll check out the all air products I'm tempted to just grind down on of the larger chisel bits (the guy had 3 different ones that he gave me with it) down to a longer needle point as all the bits that came with it have quite large tips and are for chisel work and engraving. At least until I can order a better tip I'll just practice with it. Do any of you guys know if paleo tools tips are compatible with the 9361? I know they make their own version of that called something I cant remeber. 

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43 minutes ago, Wxman said:

@Brian-millerI'm in CR tonight if you want to chat. A couple of noobs might might learn stuff to help each other.

Shoot! I'm out of town for work today and tomorrow!! Next time shoot me a message! I'd be down for that! 

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9 minutes ago, Brian-miller said:

Shoot! I'm out of town for work today and tomorrow!! Next time shoot me a message! I'd be down for that! 

I will. I'm in Cow Bay, but I'm up there every couple of months as a minimum. 

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22 hours ago, Brian-miller said:

Awesome I'll check out the all air products I'm tempted to just grind down on of the larger chisel bits (the guy had 3 different ones that he gave me with it) down to a longer needle point as all the bits that came with it have quite large tips and are for chisel work and engraving. At least until I can order a better tip I'll just practice with it. Do any of you guys know if paleo tools tips are compatible with the 9361? I know they make their own version of that called something I cant remeber. 

 

If you grind one of your tips, be sure to keep dunking it in cool water every couple of seconds or you will lose the temper and have a soft tip that will dull in about 1/2 a second. The trick is not to let it get hotter than around 400F. The Paleo Tools ME9100 is comparable to the CP9361 but I don't think their stylus is an exact fit.

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Unfortunately you cannot really grind the stylus tip that come with the CP9361 If it is an original. They are made from two different materials and the actual tip is quite blunt and round., DNSONS in England makes a number of styluses that will fit the CP, here is one in the picture below (they have lots of others, some which are better for fossil work). They have a website you can check out the rest. I have no experience with these as I have tools that are actually meant for fine detailed work. (Pferd MST-31, Paleotools Microjack 2, and a couple of ARO's. I also have a Sealy from England (great for roughing out matrix) and an 8315B as well as a couple of other less know scribes for bulk removal. 

 

 In my  humble opinion  the CP 9361 (I have 2) is a good starter scribe for doing general matrix removal and landscaping at the end of the fossil preparation process. It will never, even with a sharp stylus be up to precise fine detail work. Too much wobble and inconsistency in stroke length of the stylus. The very best have very high frequencies and absolutely consistent stroke length. They are literally capable of taking off the equivalent of dust not chips like the starter scribes. In my opinion the original ARO (not a clone) is the best scribe that is relatively affordable and is capable of scribing close to the fossil. It is not in the same league as the Pferd, or the Microjack 1,2, and 3 s. 

 

The German HW10 is another scribe that does a good job a detail. It is using the same design as the ARO with higher tolerances and options for longer styluses. They have a conversion kit for an ARO as well if I recall. In the US I believe that The Stonecompany is the distributor. 

 

FYI that is likely the next scribe I am thinking of Acquiring. You can never have too many scribes if you do a lot of prep as I do. Every scribe is different and each can do a few things well, no scribe even the most expensive can do everything. A German Pferd is pretty much terrible for bulk removal and using for that will destroy the stylus's which are very expensive.

 

People can always PM me with specific questions, eventually I do respond 

 

 

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

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@Malcolmt that's all great info. Thanks so much for your input. I'm starting with a CP and an 8315, as they seem to cover the bulk of the work from what I have read. I hear you on the Pferd and microjacks for the really fine stuff, that's good to know. Are you usually under magification at that point? What do you use?

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If you happen to know a tool and die maker (like me) or machinist, they may be able to help. The company that supplies our pre-made pierce punches made me a couple of stylus' to my detail drawing, and I'm sure the material used- high quality tool steel-  is a lot better than the original stylus material. Not the cheapest unless you order several, but at least I know the quality is high and no need to replace any other parts to accommodate the Paleotools version.

There's no limit to what you can accomplish when you're supposed to be doing something else

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9 hours ago, Malcolmt said:

Unfortunately you cannot really grind the stylus tip that come with the CP9361 If it is an original. They are made from two different materials and the actual tip is quite blunt and round., DNSONS in England makes a number of styluses that will fit the CP, here is one in the picture below (they have lots of others, some which are better for fossil work). They have a website you can check out the rest. I have no experience with these as I have tools that are actually meant for fine detailed work. (Pferd MST-31, Paleotools Microjack 2, and a couple of ARO's. I also have a Sealy from England (great for roughing out matrix) and an 8315B as well as a couple of other less know scribes for bulk removal. 

 

 In my  humble opinion  the CP 9361 (I have 2) is a good starter scribe for doing general matrix removal and landscaping at the end of the fossil preparation process. It will never, even with a sharp stylus be up to precise fine detail work. Too much wobble and inconsistency in stroke length of the stylus. The very best have very high frequencies and absolutely consistent stroke length. They are literally capable of taking off the equivalent of dust not chips like the starter scribes. In my opinion the original ARO (not a clone) is the best scribe that is relatively affordable and is capable of scribing close to the fossil. It is not in the same league as the Pferd, or the Microjack 1,2, and 3 s. 

 

The German HW10 is another scribe that does a good job a detail. It is using the same design as the ARO with higher tolerances and options for longer styluses. They have a conversion kit for an ARO as well if I recall. In the US I believe that The Stonecompany is the distributor. 

 

FYI that is likely the next scribe I am thinking of Acquiring. You can never have too many scribes if you do a lot of prep as I do. Every scribe is different and each can do a few things well, no scribe even the most expensive can do everything. A German Pferd is pretty much terrible for bulk removal and using for that will destroy the stylus's which are very expensive.

 

People can always PM me with specific questions, eventually I do respond 

 

 

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

Thanks so much for the info (and everyone else!) That tip you posted the picture of was from where? And I think I'll also look at those paleo tools as well that sounds like a good mix to have something  for hogging off matrix and them some finer detail work. I'm mostly hunting for ammonites here on Vancouver island so I dont know where those fall into the spectrum of detail work. I keep searing and then post some stuff up as I find and clean! Thanks again everyone for the input! 

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That tip is from Dnson Tools in Britain. They have others that are better for fine detail on their website but at the end of the day it is still a CP 9361 so it can only do what it can do.

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On 2/5/2020 at 1:10 PM, Wxman said:

Are you usually under magification at that point? What do you use?

I never prep anything without magnification. for larger specimens (croc skulls, massive fish, mammal skulls, etc) I use a magnifying lamp that is 5x. For smaller specimens, I use a stereo microscope at 10x.

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