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I have a couple of questions regarding using a circular saw for bulk matrix removal. First, is it safe to use the circular saw to remove soft matrix from a fossil? Secondly, can I use the saw to shape/slice the matrix or is this best left to another tool? Finally, what do you do to clean up the fossil, once it has been exposed and prepped? For example, let's say I prep a trilo, expose it to my liking and I end up with a bunch of mounds and lines from using the Dremel. What do I use to smooth the bumps and lumps out of the surrounding matrix?

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If your circular saw has a diamond blade, then ok. Or else use an angle grinder. As to your questions about smoothing bumps, etc., it's probably better to try it and then show photos here. Otherwise I'd suggest studying our section on fossil preparation. I'm sure you'll find some threads which would be helpful to you.

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Greetings from the Lake of Constance. Roger

http://www.steinkern.de/

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I’ve already cut soft matrix, shale, with a manual metal saw. It isn't dangerous and strong enough to cut soft rock.
 
Coco
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OUTIL POUR MESURER VOS FOSSILES : ici

Ma bibliothèque PDF 1 (Poissons et sélaciens récents & fossiles) : ici
Ma bibliothèque PDF 2 (Animaux vivants - sans poissons ni sélaciens) : ici
Mâchoires sélaciennes récentes : ici
Hétérodontiques et sélaciens : ici
Oeufs sélaciens récents : ici
Otolithes de poissons récents ! ici

Un Greg...

Badges-IPFOTH.jpg.f4a8635cda47a3cc506743a8aabce700.jpg Badges-MOTM.jpg.461001e1a9db5dc29ca1c07a041a1a86.jpg

 

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I have no experience using a circular saw for bulk removal of matrix, but I do know a diamond blade on a circular saw cuts through 3 inches of asphalt pretty well so I would think that it could be used. Maybe a little dangerous, but could work with some precautions I would think. @Ludwigias option of an angle grinder (with a diamond blade) should work as well.

 

To smooth out the lumps and bumps from surrounding matrix would depend on what type of matrix you are working with. Soft shale can be planed down with a razor blade style hobby knife or even smoothed with sand paper, whereas something harder like dolomite may need a different approach. Pictures or more info as to what you are working with would help.

The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.  -Neil deGrasse Tyson

 

Everyone you will ever meet knows something you don't. -Bill Nye (The Science Guy)

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Grinding wheels for the Dremel work well for landscaping.

    Tim    -  VETERAN SHALE SPLITTER

   MOTM.png.61350469b02f439fd4d5d77c2c69da85.png      PaleoPartner.png.30c01982e09b0cc0b7d9d6a7a21f56c6.png.a600039856933851eeea617ca3f2d15f.png     Postmaster1.jpg.900efa599049929531fa81981f028e24.jpg    VFOTM.png.f1b09c78bf88298b009b0da14ef44cf0.png  VFOTM  --- APRIL - 2015  

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"In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks."

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Using a circular saw is asking for an injury if done wrong. They are not forgiving tools. The piece being cut needs the be clamped down or well secured in some way. Then, with the proper blade, cut slowly to avoid kickback of the saw. Even a diamond blade will cut you pretty badly.

 

This will kick up a thick cloud of lung destroying dust, so wear a respirator. An angle grinder is easier to control.

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I agree with Ptych.  Unless your rock is huge and does not need to be clamped down, the circular saw on a loose rock is an accident (lots of blood) waiting to happen.  

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