Getting Started In Southeast Wisconsin

[BeforeDinosaurs]

I'm excited to get into fossil collecting, but before I spend money on gear, I'd like to be able to make an informed decision. The fossils I'd be collecting are from the Silurian age Racine Dolomite. I know that Estwing tools are generally considered the best, but other than that, I am completely unsure as to which hammers and chisels would be most appropriate for breaking these apparently very hard rocks, or even how to go about using them. I know a spot on a friend's property (by the Milwaukee River) where there are a bunch of Silurian rocks piled up, so I don't think access will be a huge problem. Still, info about good sites would be welcome. Thanks.

[Thomas.Dodson]

2 hours ago, BeforeDinosaurs said:

I'm excited to get into fossil collecting, but before I spend money on gear, I'd like to be able to make an informed decision.

A wise decision since as you guessed different gear is suited to different types of rocks.

 

Have you read these threads yet? Lots of good information available.

 

 

As is mentioned in the threads tool size is as much an issue of where you're collecting (BLM size regulations for example) as it is an issue of effectiveness. You say you have access already but if you think you'll end up hunting elsewhere it is important to keep legal size in mind.

 

If you're going to start in hard dolomite I'd recommend an Estwing crack hammer to start with. I'd get at least a 3 lb crack hammer to start, maybe a 4 lb although this will drain your stamina over time. Some people use ordinary sledge hammers and these certainly work but It's tough to work hard material repeatedly and a good, balanced hammer makes a big difference if you're going to do a lot of swinging. Some big tools like the paleopick might be useful but I don't have a lot of experience using these as I find them heavy and cumbersome to carry long distances.

 

As for chisels, I'd get some good masonry chisels. Cold chisels work although these will dull a lot quicker so keep that in mind. There are specially made chisels available now for splitting limestone and shale but I wouldn't subject these to thick bedded dolostone and the like.

 

 

 

 

[minnbuckeye]

When hunting rock as you describe, a crack hammer and a rock pick are a good start. I prefer the chisel end verses the tapered end. It can be used as a chisel by rapping it with your crack hammer. A crow bar isn't a bad thing to have on hand to move around larger rocks. These three items and a bottle of superglue will accomplish your rough extractions. Once home with the fossils, then work with finer equipment. 

 

Mike

 

[BeforeDinosaurs]

Thanks for the quick replies! A couple questions; is the crack hammer used to smash rocks directly, or only in conjunction with a chisel, and which sizes and shapes of chisel would work best? Is this one good? https://www.amazon.com/Worksite-Protection-Demolishing-Splitting-Breaking/dp/B08G11XM78/ref=sr_1_3?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Masonry+Chisels&qid=1611524239&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-3&ts_id=553146

[Bob Saunders]

A crack hammer looks like a short version of a sledge hammer, double head.  The ones we use to crack or break open hard geodes weight 8 lbs to 12 lbs. Using for the hard a good quality and hard  cold chisel. Some now have carbide tips but cost around $100 USD. and up. Home Depot and now my True Value Hardware store has the DASCO brand of masonry chisels. Get the one with the molded grip to protect your hand from a miss. Of this brand I have had to file or belt sand the wedge point and it seems like many have to. I have found a few at garage sales or flea market dealers with used tools. Personally I would rather see it in person and ask a worker if needed V's mail order new. An 8 lbs hammer would likely smash softer rocks. Never use a carpenters claw hammer on chisels. 

[minnbuckeye]

With a crack hammer, you swing away!! The weight of the head breaks MOST rocks.

[Thomas.Dodson]

A crack hammer can be used to drive chisels or break rock directly like a sledge. Rock hammers, brick layer hammers, and claw hammers shouldn't be used to drive chisels. They're liable to chip. As Bob Saunders mentioned for really tough stuff more weight is better but if you're trying to balance use in various types of rocks something medium sized would be better. Since you're starting in dolomite I'd start at LEAST a 3lb crack hammer though. I'm something of a hammer minimalist myself and generally carry around a 3lb crack hammer and the chisel ended bricklayers/geologist hammers minnbuckeye mentioned. If I have to hike I don't want to be carrying around a huge assortment. Of course this varies based on my location and sometimes I'll bring a large sledge to supplement.

[minnbuckeye]

19 minutes ago, Thomas.Dodson said:

If I have to hike I don't want to be carrying around a huge assortment.

 

That is why simplicity is nice!!