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Butvar 76 Bone Frosting Solved


megaholic

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I recently began preserving some Pleistocene mammal bones with Butvar and discovered that I had a chronic problem with the bone edges turning white after drying. Read on if you have had the same issue. I was given some great tips on how to dry the bones, heat the bones, and store the bones, in order to drive out all the moisture in them. All attempts met only reasonable success, until I stumbled onto the idea of slowing down the evaporation process. That is the answer to a perfectly preserved bone! I mix my Butvar with acetone, and it evaporates very quickly, cooling the bone in the process. By covering the bones with any cover that still allows the fumes out slowly, the bone dries much slower, and there are no more frosted edges to go back and deal with. The items still must be COMPLETELY free of any moisture, but if you just keep them covered for about a day immediately after they come out of the Butvar, they will be perfect. One word of caution: Some bones absorb a huge volume when dipped in the Butvar solution. Placing them in a container to dry will also mean that they will have to be drained of all the excess that collects on the bottom. Failing to drain them would result in the fossil being glued to the solid resin that would puddle on the bottom. I like to use a plastic bowl that just allows the bones to fit inside. I like to preserve everything I find except shark teeth, and you can dry a batch of fossils together as in my pictures. Never forget how explosive and harmful these fumes are!!!! See my pictures, and let us all know if you have more hints on this subject.

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any kind of containers will work fine

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larger bones done in old roasting pan also used to heat bones in with heat lamp prior to dipping

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small groups are easier for me

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the finished product with no evidence of preservation.

"A man who asks is a fool for five minutes. A man who never asks is a fool for life".

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good thoughts. up this point i've allowed frosting to occur, waited a week for complete drying, then brushed pure acetone onto frosted spots to clear them up.

Grüße,

Daniel A. Wöhr aus Südtexas

"To the motivated go the spoils."

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i also like to put big bones and tusks in ziploc bags with butvar to promote saturation with minimum butvar volume required. leave them bagged a few days then pull out and air dry. most of the frosting i've experienced came when specimens couldnt be fully dried unstabilized due to runaway disintegration. so i at time have to butvar them wet then dissolve frosted areas later as mentioned.

Grüße,

Daniel A. Wöhr aus Südtexas

"To the motivated go the spoils."

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Dan,

Those are more great ideas for the subject. I would suspect that any bones could be treated in a ziplock bag, then just drain out the Butvar and leave the items in the bag to slowly dry with the bag seal left cracked open. As long as there is no rapid flash drying of the items, you should not get any frosting.

MH

"A man who asks is a fool for five minutes. A man who never asks is a fool for life".

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you might get a little localized pooling forming high spots where bone contacts bag...speculative but worth considering

Grüße,

Daniel A. Wöhr aus Südtexas

"To the motivated go the spoils."

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Dan, and everyone else too!!!

I spent the afternoon preserving my Mastodon big pieces that I have been concerned about how to preserve. I used your bag method, and poured the Butvar directly into the bag which was in a safety container. Then I drained the Butvar back into the can, and just left the bones in the bag to dry.

They all came out perfect with NO FROST. :jig: The open Ziplock bags allow just the right amount of air in to get a nice slow evaporation. I had no problems with pooling, or bone sticking to anything.

Thanks for the idea....Keep them coming!

Megaholic

"A man who asks is a fool for five minutes. A man who never asks is a fool for life".

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kewl...have fun!

Grüße,

Daniel A. Wöhr aus Südtexas

"To the motivated go the spoils."

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