Stone Chisels

[Blakfistforge]

I am getting ready to buy some new/better rock chisels and was wondering if I could get your advice or preferences on good general purpose chisels for fossil collecting? The rock I collect in are limestones and shales.

I was leaning towards buying Estwing but am unsure what sizes are the most practical:

Estwing ERC-8C= 1 1/8" wide bit

Estwing ERC-7C= 2 3/4" wide bit

Estwing ERC-12C= 5/8" wide bit

Of course I may be way off base, and hopefully will get set on the right path here.

[Bullsnake]

In my opinion, a variety of sizes is good.

As opposed to a quality hammer (Estwing, or reasonable facsimile) being important, decent chisels can be picked up at discount hardware/tool stores, garage sales, etc.

I'm sure you know this, but just make sure they're cold chisels, and not wood chisels.

Edited May 30, 2013 by Bullsnake

[Malcolmt]

I almost exclusively use a Stanley 1 1/2 inch wide with the big yellow plastic hand protector on the top. In combination with my blue eastwing mini sledge it works great.

[xonenine]

yours sound like great choices Blakfistforge. I like to have a 1 1/4" and a 2" mostly, and I will switch often as needed.

When I start pulverizing the shale, instead of getting clean breaks, rather than get frustrated with the cross-bedded shale, I usually just need the larger chisel, so now at least two are always with me. Never mind the fact that I have misplaced a chisel or two, and I'd feel pretty silly stuck in the field far from the car with no chisels left when I lose one...

In the limestone, where I am looking for cracks or weathering to gain purchase, more than one chisel is almost necessary. And it is always handy to have several chisels if you want to get larger blocks of shale cracked so they can be separated with the crow bars/pry bars.

[larry739]

Let me suggest the use of a 12" masonary trowel for shale layer separation. It brings loosely layered shale off in nice large slabs.

[erose]

Some of my best chisels are from garage/yard sales.

[mikecable]

One thing you have to know--I'm from Texas. The only proper way to hunt fossils is with a high explosive charge, followed up by some heavy earth moving equipment--buy John Deere or if you can afford it Caterpillar.

One other thing you have to know--I'm from Texas. I don't find T. rex that often. I find tiny echinoids not much bigger than a centimeter. So I tend to leave the bulldozer at home. Buy a good light-weight Estwing hammer. Get a couple of small chisels. And have them with you. Everything is site specific, but the gear you leave in the trunk of the car because it's too heavy is useless. An old pocket knife in hand is better than the collection of chisels in the boot of the car.

Buy good boots, knee pads, and a hat that makes you look like Indiana Jones. And a loupe. If you have money left over go to

http://www.cat.com/equipment

Find your explosives on your own.

[Blakfistforge]

Thanks everyone for all of the input. Right now I have some ancient "farm-used" mason chisels and some money I put aside to purchase better ones. I do appreciate all of this information for my upcoming chisel shopping trip!

@mikecable....no $ here for nitro and a Cat, will some firecrackers and a 1948 Farmall M tractor with a scoop work?

[Fossildude19]

As others say, you don't need to spend tons on chisels, as they are readily found in flea markets and tag sales.

I do suggest getting one with the hand guard, although I may be prejudiced - my hammers seem strangely attracted to my hand, particularly, when holding a chisel.

Regards,

[mikecable]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320736762263?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I recently bought this item. Haven't use it yet. Gary pounds heck out of his hand regularly. If I start doing so I figure I'm dehydrated or drunk, and quit hammering. Since I don't drink in the field my bet is I'm dehydrated. That could have something to do with the night before, though. Mad dogs and Englishmen. Fools and old cowboys. Drunks and children. We don't alway get a pass. Hydrate and watch your hammer. I almost chewed somebody out a few days ago (Gary), about the scree you kick downhill. Be aware of what's above and below--on the way up and on the way down. I can get away with calling him by name because I know a few of the foibles of my collecting partner well. I'm sure he could call me my name on several faults as well.

[BobWill]

Most limestone will split with any cold chisel that fits your hand. There is some harder limestone that can be cut easier with a special tool. I got a hand chisel from Trow and Holden with square notches cut into the end (their style F). If your stone is really hard and a regular edge isn't working well give this a try.

[Fossildude19]

Hi Guys. Is there a difference between the Estwing hammers sold on say Geo-Tools.com and the Brick Layers Estwing hammers sold at home depot? Seem about the same to me. Other than the price

After checking out Home Depot's website and the Estwing website, the model #'s on the Brick Layer's Hammer appear to be the same.

Regards,

[RJB]

Hey blackfistforge, all these guys are very helpful. My very first prepping tool was one of my wifes steak knifes. Ha! Glad no one said to get one of those. Good luck

RB

[BobWill]

I got a link for the notched chisel I use now. Even on softer limestone it removes rock far easier than a solid blade. Probably because it is attempting to remove less material at once. On really hard stone I can see why it's what sculptors use for marble. They come with different styles of notch and different widths. I still pick up yard sale chisels too but when I want to really dig in I grab this tool.

Scroll down to "Steel Marble Hand Chisel" for the one I get. Style "F" in the 1/2 inch or 5/8 size for most things. At $32 and $36 you pay a little extra but these are made to last with a temper meant for hard stone. Try one and you'll never go back to solid blades.

http://trowandholden.com/store/agora.cgi?product=cat2

Edited March 30, 2016 by BobWill

[TNCollector]

Chisels are one of the most important tools you can have. I highly recommend that you get multiple sizes, some for more fine work, some for medium duty work, and some for busting larger rocks up. I also find it useful to have chisels with different tip styles.

Also don't make the mistake of using a wood chisel, as I did the first time I bought some. They look almost identical as the concrete ones but won't last long at all.

[Ptychodus04]

I also use a 2" wide 12" long piece of high carbon flat steel ground to a chisel edge for splitting shale. It works amazingly well for opening slabs.

[sTamprockcoin]

My favorite chisels were made/formed from the Leaf springs of old farm equiptment. Hard as all get out, can be resharpened, and not a big loss if lost though I have put Flourescent Green or orange Duct tape around the shaft to make them a bit more visible in the rock pile.

[Ridgehiker]

I've got everything at thrift shops, garage sales. Dollar or so each.

It's hard to know what chisels are best until out at a site...could be anything from a bread knife to a tank destroyer.

I'll second what Samprockoin advises. I tie fluorescent tape to my pack, chisels, hammer, etc. I also loop a piece on my car keys and then use a safety pin to fasten the keys to the inside of my pocket. Tape has a lot of uses for marking trails, specific findings, etc.

[BobWill]

High carbon and spring steel are great for splitting material and working in softer rock but after they are cut or ground down they have to be re-tempered properly for use with hard rock or they will get dull too fast. For that you need a source of high heat and some knowledge about metals.