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I have a bunch of petrified/coalified wood from Mazon Creek and have started a process to decrease the reactivity of the pyrite and sulphur in them. Thought I'd describe the process and results in case it is helpful to anyone else.

Some of them are fairly quick to form decay and even create lovely hairy crystal gardens of possibly Pickeringite or Halotrichite.

Here is an earlier post about that.

Here's some images of the cool crystal hairs that formed awhile back.

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Anyway here's my process that I've started on a few items. Not at all sure if this is the best process but thought I'd try it as an experiment and see what happens. It is an adaptation of recommendations by Reiner Mielke. Any suggestions or critiques would be great. I'm currently at Step 4 with the first batch and debating about Step 5.

Step 1:

Neutralize in water with some baking soda.

(I notice my pieces really fiz a lot and some of the material breaks a part in this reaction so one may need to be careful with fragile items.)

Step 2:

Dry in the oven at low temperature for several hours.

Step 3:

Immerse in WD-40 to displace all the water.

Step 4:

Let dry

Step 5:

Two options and I haven't decided between the two:

One option is to immerse in motor oil. (This is the Mielke approach)

The other option is to spray with Fluid Film (a lanolin product in a spray bottle to prevent rust)

Then let dry.

Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.–Carl Sagan

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The WD-40 has darkened the fossil considerably. I'll have to see how they look once they dry.

That could be a big drawback. The WD-40 (or maybe the baking soda) has also dissolved some of the outer part and you can feel a gritty texture.

Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.–Carl Sagan

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After the WD-40, the items appear to darken considerably.

Here's a photo of before and after. The light areas certainly darkened a lot. The black areas appear to be browner now.

Perhaps after several days when the WD-40 is fully dry it will get closer to the way it was. We'll see.


Psaronius wood 4a

Psaronius (after treatment to stop pyrite)

Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.–Carl Sagan

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I'm trying another test with a few other items. For this group, I'm drying them in the oven and then just applying Fluid Film (a lanolin-based oil spray) and rubbing it in after it has a chance to soak in a bit.

Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.–Carl Sagan

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I hadn't heard of the Fluid Film before. It will be interesting to see how it does.

My fossil test group has been out of the oil but still not dry yet.

Welcome to the forum!

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I just did some with solely fluid film yesterday. Found a spray can of the stuff from the auto store. It is nice that is just lanolin so you don't have to worry about it getting all over your hands. You just end up with soft skin :)

After wiping off the excess, they look pretty good. I think they end up always having a wet look which may or may not be desirable. Looks like the WD-40 ones always retain a 'wet look' as well.

ROZ: How did yours look before and after the motor oil part? I'm debating if the motor oil is completely necessary.

Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.–Carl Sagan

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I'm curious; it seems most of these oil methods would leave a residue that would trap dust and fibers over time...the bane of macro photography. :D

The human mind has the ability to believe anything is true.  -  JJ

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I wouldn't count on WD-40 drying up. It's a light machine oil and therefore will retain an oily residue that may for the most part soak into the object, but it will always be oil. I imagine motor oil will be the same way. Seriously doubt applying any petroleum based material will allow it to go back to it's original coloring. They will most likely all darken them to some extent.

 

 

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The fossils look as dark after the WD40 and still look the same after the motor oil.

Only one fossil turned a curious shade of reddish-brown. I don't think they will ever

go back to the original color either but it sure beats pyrite disease.

Welcome to the forum!

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W(ater) D(ispersant) 40:

  • solvent naphtha petroleum, medium aliphatic, > 60%
  • petroleum base oil as paraffinic distillate, heavy, solvent-dewaxed (severe), 15% to 25%
  • corrosion inhibitor unregulated, 1% to 10%
  • wetting agent unregulated, 1% to 10%
  • fragrance unregulated, 0% to 1%
  • carbon dioxide, 2% to 3%

It is an urban legend that it is based on fish oil.

"There has been an alarming increase in the number of things I know nothing about." - Ashleigh Ellwood Brilliant

“Try to learn something about everything and everything about something.” - Thomas Henry Huxley

>Paleontology is an evolving science.

>May your wonders never cease!

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So far, I prefer the look of the ones with just lanolin spray (Fluid Film) over the WD-40 treated ones. I think the lanolin could be more reversible with soap and water (perhaps). I'll see how they hold up over time and whether they collect a lot of dust or start getting hairy again :)

Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.–Carl Sagan

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After a week of drying, both the lanolin and wd40 coated fossils look much better and have regained much of their color.

And, no signs of white powdery pyrite disease.

Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.–Carl Sagan

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Do your specimens decay that quickly? Untreated specimens in my garage usually require months to show any decay even when wrapped up (leaving wrapped seems to speed the decay process.)

I can usually leave untreated specimens in the open air for much longer without any signs of decay.

We have an opportunity for some observational science here. You could take a treated specimen of all the various methods you've tried and an untreated specimen from the same area, wrap them both in paper and put into separate boxes. Then store them for 6 months. Upon opening, you should know if your treatments worked and how well.

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