Think I Should Work On This A Tad To Show More?

[amour 25]

I am all new to this kind of stuff , but am ordering one of those lower end air engravers today.

Thanks for any hints.

Jeff

[Auspex]

Keep your points really sharp, and keep them pointed away from the bone when in use.

[Scylla]

Um, yes show us more! Tell us more too, where is this from? Found, bought, etc.

[amour 25]

Bought ,and is from S.D. is a Leptauchenia, more I do not know.

Best place to buy replacement tips for the CP 710 is where?

Thanks

Jeff

[snolly50]

I think this is a great piece that certainly deserves additional prep. There is a lot that can be done with non-power tools while you wait for the air rig. An Xacto blade, carbide needle or even a small screwdriver could be very useful and productive. In my opinion the power implement will be most useful in shaping the "base" and on the matrix heavy right side. I assume the major North/South break has been rejoined in a secure manner. The visible bone shows substantial breaking into a mosaic pattern. This is not a problem in itself, but it may indicate areas which may undesirably pop off the matrix. To me it just reinforces a general caution to be careful in manipulating the piece as you work on it. That is, it's real easy to be working on an area and being careless with your hand on another spot, as you move the piece about. Here is my Forum post detailing the prep of a similar piece. Good luck, have fun, it's going to look great.

Oreodont Prep Series - Fossil Preparation - The Fossil Forum

[amour 25]

I think this is a great piece that certainly deserves additional prep. There is a lot that can be done with non-power tools while you wait for the air rig. An Xacto blade, carbide needle or even a small screwdriver could be very useful and productive. In my opinion the power implement will be most useful in shaping the "base" and on the matrix heavy right side. I assume the major North/South break has been rejoined in a secure manner. The visible bone shows substantial breaking into a mosaic pattern. This is not a problem in itself, but it may indicate areas which may undesirably pop off the matrix. To me it just reinforces a general caution to be careful in manipulating the piece as you work on it. That is, it's real easy to be working on an area and being careless with your hand on another spot, as you move the piece about. Here is my Forum post detailing the prep of a similar piece. Good luck, have fun, it's going to look great.

Oreodont Prep Series - Fossil Preparation - The Fossil Forum

Cool thanks missed that.

Jeff

[siteseer]

You're getting good advice. I would also make sure you save all the matrix you shave off. You can use it to help reinforce and/or shape the base assuming you're keeping it in matrix.

You also want to make sure all the bone surfaces are clean and then apply a Butvar (or Vinac) solution to soak into and strengthen the bone.

You also want to be careful with that glue job. It looks like a good connection, but as you work, you might find it could be tighter especially after vibration from the scribe. In that case some people would take it apart, clean the old glue off, and then reglue it better. That's always a personal choice. Watch for cracking in the bone as you work.

When I prep, I use a scalpel. I like them better than Xacto knives because there are a variety of blade shapes.

Always use eye-protection. Matrix chips and blade tips fly everywhere. On two occasions I had a blade tip break off, fly up, and bounce off my safety glasses.

I am all new to this kind of stuff , but am ordering one of those lower end air engravers today.

Thanks for any hints.

Jeff

[Ptychodus04]

Be patient and take your time. Work for no more than a couple hours a day with a few breaks. This will help you keep from getting anxious and pushing too fast, thus damaging your specimen. Every preparator has done it. Get some good lighting and at least a magnifying headset. Your preparation will look so much better if you do it under magnification.

Pieces of bone will come off, just glue them back on with some cyanoacrylate. I would stabilize the visible bone with Butvar or Vinac prior to beginning mechanical preparation. A couple coats of very thin solution (50:1 plastic to acetone) will help to lock the microscopic cracks together. Also, apply the stabilizing solution to exposed bone as you go. This will save you a to of heartbreak. I spent 26 hours prepping a fish recently and this method saved the specimen. The bones were encased in a loosely cemented sandstone which was covered by a concrete hard ironstone. The vibrations from removing the ironstone compromised the integrity of the sandstone so I had hair thin fish ribs completely unsupported by matrix. Liberal application of stabilizer as I uncovered the bones kept them together.

Good luck. I can't wait to see some progress pics.

[amour 25]

Be patient and take your time. Work for no more than a couple hours a day with a few breaks. This will help you keep from getting anxious and pushing too fast, thus damaging your specimen. Every preparator has done it. Get some good lighting and at least a magnifying headset. Your preparation will look so much better if you do it under magnification.

Pieces of bone will come off, just glue them back on with some cyanoacrylate. I would stabilize the visible bone with Butvar or Vinac prior to beginning mechanical preparation. A couple coats of very thin solution (50:1 plastic to acetone) will help to lock the microscopic cracks together. Also, apply the stabilizing solution to exposed bone as you go. This will save you a to of heartbreak. I spent 26 hours prepping a fish recently and this method saved the specimen. The bones were encased in a loosely cemented sandstone which was covered by a concrete hard ironstone. The vibrations from removing the ironstone compromised the integrity of the sandstone so I had hair thin fish ribs completely unsupported by matrix. Liberal application of stabilizer as I uncovered the bones kept them together.

Good luck. I can't wait to see some progress pics.

Thanks for the info, I do have Butvar, bought say 14 years back ,I guess still good in a big jug I think 5 or more pounds.

But really don't know where to start, I guess on the back side where no teeth exposed.

And yes will be kept on matrix, I can make a plaster base to finish it off as I have the pigments, plus I am a modeler also.

No problem there, can make a nice base and use the stuff extracted as the color or whatever, Pen won't be in until next week , microscope here already.

Will post when something happens.

And I think a nice Cherry or Walnut base for all of them.

Do wood also.

Jeff

[Ptychodus04]

Your Butvar should still be in good shape. It may have gotten a bit clumpy but that's not a concern. I would recommend starting in the back. Also, when you get your engraving pen, practice on a few fossils you don't care about so you can see how it handles.

[amour 25]

Waiting on that pen deal, so I started.

Okay started with a small x-acto blade today an hour to get that far.

So far no teeth showing, and should the Red stuff be removed most looks like some kind of Coral colony stuff.

Reminds me of some weathered stuff in SW Ok in the permain beds there.

Pics below.

Thanks.

Jeff

[amour 25]

Well a little more.

Jeff

[Auspex]

Coooool!

[Ptychodus04]

Nice progress!

[jpc]

I would avoid coating it with butvar or vinac. It is a SD white river skull. They are generally very sturdy. Plastic will make it shiny.

Edited January 7, 2015 by jpc

[jpc]

No... Do not get rid of the red stuff.

[Ludwigia]

Now you're getting somewhere! Excellent!

[amour 25]

Thanks all okay red stuff stays, I will use the B72 now and can be removed with acetone at a latter date , sound alright that?

I can't seem to find where the next tooth heads too.

Wish I had an x-ray machine.

Jeff

[amour 25]

So which way should I go?

Back in more continue to move along the teeth line?

I can not find where the next tooth starts.

And can the Mod move this to Fossil prep please.

Thanks

Jeff

[sseth]

Looking good. be cautious when working around the teeth. even a slight nick can often cause them to fracture or even explode. Sadly I am speaking form experience. We all start somewhere and I have a few I wish I could redo.