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Restoration Methods


32fordboy

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Back from the dead! As far as resto affecting commerical value, it all really depends. I have seen numerous specimens that couldn't be sold until the restoration had been done, even when the resto has been appropriately pointed out to the buyer. Sometimes natural beauty is missing and a helping hand is needed to make a specimen more displayable.

Since this thread took a break back in June of 2010, I've become quite proficient at restoration. The major project was a huge Chilotherium (bigger than the one in this thread) and the current project (that is on hold) is a Hoplophoneus. Through trial and error I've learned things this thread can't cover...only hands-on experience can. An avid, competetive model builder uses the same procedures I do. Texture and paint matches the real bone and can be very difficult to find. Of course, that can be a bad thing, as well. Some people want restoration to be obvious.

Some photos of te larger Chilotherium are below. You'll notice how it looked terrible before resto. I couldn't give it away at that time. Restoration was completed and one of the most influential "ameteur" paleontologists of our time snappd it up like it was hot (by the way, this guy is trimming his collection and the skull is for sale again for 4k).

Long story-short, if a specimen is highly collectible but severly damaged, restoration is key for value. On smaller, more common specimens, you're wasting time unless you plan on keeping the specimen or are just practicing.

I, too, will end this by saying: always point out restoration and keep a photo log of the process so nobody gets ripped off.

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Edited by 32fordboy
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  • 3 months later...

Another "filler" to use other than bondo is Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty. You can mix it to various consistencies, it carves easily and gets really strong. It's also very easy to paint. I've seen it used at the Denver Museum as well as the Smithsonian and I've used it for years.

.................and no vapors , can be done in your living room if need be. John
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  • 2 years later...

I prefer PC Lumber epoxy putty. It is a two part epoxy putty in a tube, and can be cut off with the amount you want, and you don/t have to worry about getting the mixture right. I work mostly with white river fossils, and the color is close so the painting is easy.

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  • Fossildude19 unpinned this topic

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