Mammoth Tusk Preservation..

[exodus2998]

Hey Everyone,

Attached is a few photos of my mammoth tusk. Approx. 4 1/2 ft. around the concave and 48 lbs.

I recently received 1kg of Butvar-B76 and plan on attempting to preserve this monster. This will be my first attempt at preserving any fossil so any tips/suggestions are highly appreciated.

I've read through Harry's articles, as well as a few others, and have a general idea of what to do here. Although, i've never attempted such a task.

I've found a large pond tub that would possibly fit the tusk but would spend a fortune in acetone filling it. Can I simply paint/turkey baste the solution onto the tusk or is it necessary to impregnate the entire tusk? Could I use a smaller container and only dip part of the tusk at a time? Is the Florida sun enough to cure this afterwords and how long should I expect to leave it to dry?

..Considering this is the only fossil I own at the moment, and i'm not an active hunter just yet, it is likely this solution will be for a one time use. Although, if it is possible to save such solution.. should I store in glass jars and what sort of shelf life does it have?

Any recommended dilution ratios of Butvar to acetone for this specific piece?

I do appreciate all the help/suggestions and I apologize if any of these questions are considered 'common sense'.

Thanks,

Steve Griffin

Edited June 28, 2016 by exodus2998

[Harry Pristis]

I suggest you purchase a plastic window-sill planter. They come in several sizes, but get the one that just accommodates the width of the tusk (the smaller the surface area exposed, the slower the evaporation of the acetone/butvar solution).

When all preparations are made, stick the proximal end of the tusk into the planter and pour the butvar solution over the tusk end. Use the turkey baster to flood the tusk again and again. Rotate the tusk to the next section and repeat the baster flooding. Rotate until the entire tusk is treated. Work quickly because the acetone will be evaporating as you work.

Good luck! Tell us about your experience.

[JohnBrewer]

I'd test the plastic first, acetone is a solvent for some plastics.

[Ptychodus04]

For projects this large, I prefer the "paint on" method. Mix a VERY THIN solution of Butvar/acetone somewhere around 50:1 by volume. This will penetrate deeply. Apply multiple coats to the piece allowing the acetone to evaporate completely between coats (it will dry fast).

This works well if you don't have an appropriately sized bath of solution.

[caldigger]

And do yourself a huge favor and wear a vapor mask while doing this. Acetone evaporates at an incredible rate and the vapors can easily overwhelm you. Also since it evaporates so fast it will be very cold to the touch so wear good protection gloves.

caldigger

I have to say, your tusk has some extreme curvature, where is it from?

Edited June 28, 2016 by caldigger

[amour 25]

As Harry said.

A nice piece , Siberia Florida?

[Uncle Siphuncle]

If a plastic bag can be found that is acetone insoluble, I'd consider trying to vacuum bag the tusk to get the job done with minimum Butvar required. Just a thought.

[exodus2998]

I appreciate all of the very helpful tips everyone.. I will be going to Home Depot today to do some shopping. If I can find a window sill planter w/o holes, I may give that method a shot. Otherwise, I will be utilizing the 'paint on' method.

I do believe I read somewhere that the acetone/butvar solution must be allowed to fully dissolve for 24 hours.. Is this correct? If so, should it be mixed in a bunch of separate glass jars with lids in order to mitigate the evaporation of the acetone?

I have to say, your tusk has some extreme curvature, where is it from?

I did not personally find this tusk but the gentleman I acquired it from said his friend brought it back from Siberia. Not sure how much truth there is to that though.

Again, I appreciate all the help and I'm looking forward to undergoing the project this weekend.. More so the end results ;]

Also, Kris.. I understand you built a stand for another member for his tusk. I may seek your help on this one if I cannot find a suitable stand locally. However, I feel it would be difficult to trace this tusk accurately due to the curvature; It doesn't lay flat so accounting for the twisting would be the issue. Regardless, I would just like to acknowledge the stand you built for that tusk.. looked great!

Thanks,

Steve Griffin

Edited June 30, 2016 by exodus2998

[Ptychodus04]

I appreciate all of the very helpful tips everyone.. I will be going to Home Depot today to do some shopping. If I can find a window sill planter w/o holes, I may give that method a shot. Otherwise, I will be utilizing the 'paint on' method.

I do believe I read somewhere that the acetone/butvar solution must be allowed to fully dissolve for 24 hours.. Is this correct? If so, should it be mixed in a bunch of separate glass jars with lids in order to mitigate the evaporation of the acetone?

I did not personally find this tusk but the gentleman I acquired it from said his friend brought it back from Siberia. Not sure how much truth there is to that though.

Again, I appreciate all the help and I'm looking forward to undergoing the project this weekend.. More so the end results ;]

Also, Kris.. I understand you built a stand for another member for his tusk. I may seek your help on this one if I cannot find a suitable stand locally. However, I feel it would be difficult to trace this tusk accurately due to the curvature; It doesn't lay flat so accounting for the twisting would be the issue. Regardless, I would just like to acknowledge the stand you built for that tusk.. looked great!

Thanks,

Steve Griffin

Thanks Steve. I can help you out. We can get it worked out with enough photos and measurements. Let me know if you need some assistance.

I would mix it up in a large mason jar with a lid as it does take a while to dissolve. If you use the paint on method I suggested, that would be enough to properly treat this tusk.

[Xiphactinus]

I like to mix it in laundry detergent bottles. It pours out easy and can be resealed. (Extra bonus, I just pour into the cap when I just need a bit and pour the remainder back in.) It's easy to shake and remix if necessary too.

[Uncle Siphuncle]

Thanks Steve. I can help you out. We can get it worked out with enough photos and measurements. Let me know if you need some assistance.

I would mix it up in a large mason jar with a lid as it does take a while to dissolve. If you use the paint on method I suggested, that would be enough to properly treat this tusk.

Hey Kris - I can whip out 3D CAD models and dimensioned 2D drawings on a lunch hour and send the latter as PDFs, if that's of any help.

[exodus2998]

So I went shopping and gathered all of my required materials yesterday. I mixed up my solution yesterday evening into an empty paint can w/ lid that I purchased from Home Depot. Worked well. The ratio I used was approx. 3 tablespoons of Butvar-B76 per 800ml of acetone, and I mixed 3200ml of acetone with roughly 12 tablespoons of Butvar-B76. I chose this ratio after reading many helpful posts here on the forum, and my desired outcome is more of the glossy, wet look.. opposed to barely noticing the treatment. I would imagine this is a preference choice. Please advise if not. I still have time to adjust.

I've decided to use the 'paint on' method as well as a turkey baster to inject the crevices. Will one coat suffice? ..or should I apply multiple coats?

This project is planned for Saturday morning. Weather permitting. I will definitely take a few before and after photos to share.

Thanks Steve. I can help you out. We can get it worked out with enough photos and measurements. Let me know if you need some assistance.

I would mix it up in a large mason jar with a lid as it does take a while to dissolve. If you use the paint on method I suggested, that would be enough to properly treat this tusk.

Okay, I may take you up on that, Kris. My ideal stand would probably be some sort of floor model bringing the tusk up 2-4ft so that I could display it in my office. I'll send you a PM once I complete the tusk. Thanks.

I like to mix it in laundry detergent bottles. It pours out easy and can be resealed. (Extra bonus, I just pour into the cap when I just need a bit and pour the remainder back in.) It's easy to shake and remix if necessary too.

Very good recommendation, I will probably transfer my remaining solution into a detergent bottle, simply for ease of use. Thanks.

Hey Kris - I can whip out 3D CAD models and dimensioned 2D drawings on a lunch hour and send the latter as PDFs, if that's of any help.

If this is something that Kris feels would assist in turning out a better stand, let me know what you would need from me. Thanks.

Edited July 1, 2016 by exodus2998

[RJB]

What a great group of people we have here on the FF. Just amazes me how helpful this place is. Nice tusk too.

RB

[Harry Pristis]

So I went shopping and gathered all of my required materials yesterday. I mixed up my solution yesterday evening into an empty paint can w/ lid that I purchased from Home Depot. Worked well. The ratio I used was approx. 3 tablespoons of Butvar-B76 per 800ml of acetone, and I mixed 3200ml of acetone with roughly 12 tablespoons of Butvar-B76. I chose this ratio after reading many helpful posts here on the forum, and my desired outcome is more of the glossy, wet look.. opposed to barely noticing the treatment. I would imagine this is a preference choice. Please advise if not. I still have time to adjust.

I've decided to use the 'paint on' method as well as a turkey baster to inject the crevices. Will one coat suffice? ..or should I apply multiple coats?

This project is planned for Saturday morning. Weather permitting. I will definitely take a few before and after photos to share.

Okay, I may take you up on that, Kris. My ideal stand would probably be some sort of floor model bringing the tusk up 2-4ft so that I could display it in my office. I'll send you a PM once I complete the tusk. Thanks.

Very good recommendation, I will probably transfer my remaining solution into a detergent bottle, simply for ease of use. Thanks.

If this is something that Kris feels would assist in turning out a better stand, let me know what you would need from me. Thanks.

The reason to use a colorless glass jar to mix the Butvar is so that you can see if the plastic is dissolved or is a snot on the bottom of the container.

I agree that a quart may be enough consolidant to do this tusk, but it is best to have more at hand so that there is no interruption to the process. If you let the consolidant dry between applications, a plastic halo will form just below the surface, blocking penetration of any subsequent application. You get only one good shot at this consolidation. Flood, flood, flood with the baster until the tusk stops releasing air bubbles and you are convinced that the ivory has absorbed as much consolidant as it can.

[exodus2998]

Okay, well I closed the office early and decided to run home to paint the tusk on this hot Florida day.

Unfortunately, after flooding and painting it vigorously.. This white film appeared.

Will this film disappear as it dries or did I do something wrong? I am kind of leaning towards the 'I did something wrong' side.. and If thats the case, what should I do now?

Edited July 1, 2016 by exodus2998

[Harry Pristis]

I usually heat specimens with an infra-red lamp to drive off moisture just before dipping the fossil. I do this with all sorts of fossils, and have never had one damaged by the heating. The untreated specimen is always at least as wet at the relative humidity of the air around it, I surmise. (A microwave oven may be as effective, but I've only dried glass beads for my air-abrasive unit.) Residual moisture may cause a white film to develop on the surface of a fossil after dipping in the consolidant.

Here's how the white film forms: As the acetone in the consolidant evaporates, the temperature at the surface of the specimen chills abruptly, lowering the dew-point at which ambient water vapor condenses. And, that's my theory -- that the white film has two potential sources: residual interstitial moisture and ambient humidity condensing at the surface chilled by evaporation.

Think about a plastic bag of food placed into a freezer, where frost is moisture and bag is the film of consolidant. Frost can form on either or both sizes of the plastic bag, inside frost from moisture in the food and outside frost from atmospheric moisture.

My solution is heating the specimen to drive off residual moisture, and consolidating while it is warm to increase the dew-point at the specimen's surface, inhibiting condensation as the acetone boils off.

I might have left this tusk in a parked automobile in the sun to heat it; but, that opportunity is gone now. Now, your option is to wipe or "paint" the white film with acetone.

[exodus2998]

I usually heat specimens with an infra-red lamp to drive off moisture just before dipping the fossil. I do this with all sorts of fossils, and have never had one damaged by the heating. The untreated specimen is always at least as wet at the relative humidity of the air around it, I surmise. (A microwave oven may be as effective, but I've only dried glass beads for my air-abrasive unit.) Residual moisture may cause a white film to develop on the surface of a fossil after dipping in the consolidant.

Here's how the white film forms: As the acetone in the consolidant evaporates, the temperature at the surface of the specimen chills abruptly, lowering the dew-point at which ambient water vapor condenses. And, that's my theory -- that the white film has two potential sources: residual interstitial moisture and ambient humidity condensing at the surface chilled by evaporation.

Think about a plastic bag of food placed into a freezer, where frost is moisture and bag is the film of consolidant. Frost can form on either or both sizes of the plastic bag, inside frost from moisture in the food and outside frost from atmospheric moisture.

My solution is heating the specimen to drive off residual moisture, and consolidating while it is warm to increase the dew-point at the specimen's surface, inhibiting condensation as the acetone boils off.

I might have left this tusk in a parked automobile in the sun to heat it; but, that opportunity is gone now. Now, your option is to wipe or "paint" the white film with acetone.

I did read this post of yours prior and left it in my driveway for nearly an hour.. Must not have been long enough.

Would you recommend a full soak in acetone to remove all of the Butvar solution or should I simply just paint off the white film? Would I reapply the Butvar solution after painting off the white film w/ acetone?

I do appreciate your help.

[Harry Pristis]

No, don't do anything but treat the white film. You can use your paintbrush to apply the acetone (this is the closest thing to "painting" that you'll do in consolidating the tusk). The white film should disappear readily with minimal application of acetone. This re-touch is the job I like to avoid -- because of the time spent and the acetone exposure -- by pre-heating the fossil.

[exodus2998]

No, don't do anything but treat the white film. You can use your paintbrush to apply the acetone (this is the closest thing to "painting" that you'll do in consolidating the tusk). The white film should disappear readily with minimal application of acetone. This re-touch is the job I like to avoid -- because of the time spent and the acetone exposure -- by pre-heating the fossil.

Okay, I appreciate the wealth of knowledge here. I will post photos of the tusk once completed.

Thanks,

Steve Griffin

[amour 25]

Harry nailed it.

Not much of the white film a little more with the Brush and gone.

Might take more then once.

[exodus2998]

Okay, well here she is..

I am quite satisfied with the results and look forward to proudly displaying it in my office.

How does everyone else feel about the final results? Is this what is expected? Any tips for future care/handling?

I appreciate all of the help everyone here has so generously given me.

[Ptychodus04]

Hey Kris - I can whip out 3D CAD models and dimensioned 2D drawings on a lunch hour and send the latter as PDFs, if that's of any help.

Awesome. I have AutoCAD but only use it for floor plans. This might be something helpful if I can't figure it out based on pics and measurements.

I have used a lint free cotton towel soaked in acetone to wipe off excess Butvar with good results. This gives an even coverage over the surface of the specimen.

Steve, Very nicely done. It should remain stable for many years after this process. Future care would be dusting and keeping away from direct sunlight so the UV rays don't damage it over time.

Edited July 2, 2016 by Ptychodus04

[Ptychodus04]

Steve was brave enough to let me build a mount for his tusk. He supplied me with a ton of photos and different measurements, enough for me to make an approximately 1:1 model from chicken wire, paper mache, and packing tape!

I used this model to design the stand. It was quite interesting to design a mount for a specimen that is curved, twisted, has varying diameter, and is 1,100 miles away!

I used rebar as the medium for the stand and constructed a rigid base with somewhat flexible arms to hold the twisted little guy. This allows a stable mount with some adjustibility for minor imperfections in my model.

[Ptychodus04]

Steve sent me some pics of the mammoth tusk in the mount. I nicknamed it the "revine" mount since we were going for an artistic interpretation of vines and I used rebar as the medium. It looks much better with the real tusk rather than my paper mache model!!

 

I think it turned out well.

Edited September 1, 2016 by Ptychodus04

[exodus2998]

Hey everyone,

 

Kris has been absolutely amazing to me, and as you can see, is very talented. The stand came out perfect and is truly one of a kind. 

 

This forum facilitated my relationship with Kris and that's pretty cool too. What an asset to these boards! I also appreciate everyone else who helped me along my journey with this tusk. It was not only a learning experience, but was also an enjoyable one.. And I was able to make a great contact along the way. 

 

I will certainly look forward to future interactions here.

 

P.S. Stay tuned. Kris is working on a few other projects for me that he may or may not want to share. 

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Steve Griffin