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removing wax?


Wrangellian

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This may have been discussed before, but in case there are others with experience, I want to ask what is the best way to remove a wax coating from a fossil? Is there any kind of chemical that will effectively strip it without damaging the fossil/rock?

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Depends on what it is. Is it actual wax (bees, paraffin, etc.) or a floor type wax.

We have a product found here at the dollar stores called "Awesome" brand multi cleaner. That strips the wax right off the floor (warning- don't spill it) used to clean soap scum and greasy messes, but makes a strong stripper.

Hopefully someone else may know how to remove actual wax.

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I'm not sure where wax coatings occur naturally but this would have been applied. It's soft and greasy feeling, like either a beeswax sort of thing, or maybe a floor polish? Scrapes off very easy with fingernail but is impossible to remove it all that way, I need some sort of chemical.

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I use rubbing alcohol to remove wax from lapidary stones, but have not tried it on a fossil..

Roger suggested heat, If You place an absorbent cloth on the fossil before You heat it, that will soak up the wax as it melts.

Tony

PS Please let Us know how it goes.

Edited by ynot

Darwin said: " Man sprang from monkeys."

Will Rogers said: " Some of them didn't spring far enough."

 

My Fossil collection - My Mineral collection

My favorite thread on TFF.

 

 

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I was recently surprised to find out what acetone will do... I had some old pennies with some waxy residue (not really sure exactly what that substance was), put them in nail polish remover for a while (days/weeks), and when I took them out, they had stripped most of the patina/toning from them as well! I was only expecting them to remove the residue/buildup.

I might try the acetone idea on this.

I should ask if anyone knows what the fossils from Holzmaden (ammonite plates) are commonly coated with, if there is a particular thing, then it might help me to know what to use to strip it.

I'd be scared to try heat on this piece.

Edited by Wrangellian
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Acetone will dissolve some waxes, particularly man made such as ren wax which I quite like because it is archival and reversible. I'd try a small inconspicuous area first. You could also try ethanol even whisky. Use Canadian don't waste Scotch ;) Bee's wax dissolves in turpentine.

Oh, I suspect the wax on the coins was, um, many years build up of human skin oil. In the old days of film photography if we had a scratch on our negatives we would use skin oil to fill the scratches so they wouldn't show on the print. I worked fine :)

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The go-to solvent for removing stubborn waxes is xylene. It will quickly dissolve paraffin and other waxes. It can usually be found in the paint section of larger hardware stores. As a solvent, it's generally analogous to acetone, in that it dries quickly and leaves no residue. I've used it many times for removing spilled wax from concrete, carpeting, etc. Cheers, and best of luck!

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Don't say I didn't try.

Who said that? I never negated your idea.

Acetone will dissolve some waxes, particularly man made such as ren wax which I quite like because it is archival and reversible. I'd try a small inconspicuous area first. You could also try ethanol even whisky. Use Canadian don't waste Scotch ;) Bee's wax dissolves in turpentine.

Oh, I suspect the wax on the coins was, um, many years build up of human skin oil. In the old days of film photography if we had a scratch on our negatives we would use skin oil to fill the scratches so they wouldn't show on the print. I worked fine :)

No doubt the coins had skin oil buildup but there is also a waxy kind of verdigris that occurs, and besides that, the toning of the metal itself, which is the first thing to develop - on top of that comes the buildup. If I wanted to strip the toning too, I would have used Brasso or Tarn-X.

Is there a noticeable difference in quality btwn Cdn and Scotch whiskey??

The go-to solvent for removing stubborn waxes is xylene. It will quickly dissolve paraffin and other waxes. It can usually be found in the paint section of larger hardware stores. As a solvent, it's generally analogous to acetone, in that it dries quickly and leaves no residue. I've used it many times for removing spilled wax from concrete, carpeting, etc. Cheers, and best of luck!

Thanks, I'll try the acetone first, then that.

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Who said that? I never negated your idea.

That's just an expression we used in the old days in Brampton. I just figured you'd understand what was actually meant.

Edited by Ludwigia

 

Greetings from the Lake of Constance. Roger

http://www.steinkern.de/

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Verdigris can be formed by salt in sweat, sodium chloride, and react with copper to make copper chloride or verdigris. Atmospheric stuff will add to it too.

Just pulling your leg re the whiskey. Never tried Canadian, Scottish single malts are pretty good though! ;)

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For use on fossils just make sure your Scotch is properly aged...like a few million years.

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Verdigris can be formed by salt in sweat, sodium chloride, and react with copper to make copper chloride or verdigris. Atmospheric stuff will add to it too.

Just pulling your leg re the whiskey. Never tried Canadian, Scottish single malts are pretty good though! ;)

I know how verdigris forms, I'm usually trying to remove it without removing the toning/patina and this time I've failed. I guess there is no way to do it in bulk, can only do it one coin at a time in the ultrasonic cleaner.

I wouldn't know much about which whisk(e)ys are better, I can't afford any of them!

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The waxy stuff I'm told is called Fluat... anyone have any knowledge of that stuff, what might remove it? I'll try the acetone unless someone says I'd better not.

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The waxy stuff I'm told is called Fluat... anyone have any knowledge of that stuff, what might remove it? I'll try the acetone unless someone says I'd better not.

Oh-oh. I've heard of that stuff, but never used it before.

If this is what you are talking about ---> http://www.tikkurila.com/industrial_coatings/products/products_and_safety_data_sheets_in_alphabetical_order/temafloor_fluat.7754.shtml and https://www.schomburg.com/de/en/products/esco-fluat

then it isn't a wax, it is a very strong mineral crystal, so using all the organic solvents mentioned above will not touch it. The Fluat contains silicon fluoride, which mixed with water makes hydrogen fluoride acid, which reacts with calcium carbonate to make calcium fluoride.

It is mildly soluble in acids, but don't use sulfuric, because that will produce hydrogen fluoride gas (very corrosive and toxic).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_fluoride

As I mentioned, I've never used this stuff myself, or attempted to remove it.

Edited by tmaier
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Hydroflouric acid is bad bad stuff. In work environments it's recommended that you never work alone, admittedly that's full strength and in quantity.

As a collector of Roman coins I've had my fair share of verdigris. In the past I've tried removing it chemically and physically but I've damaged coins so I keep them sealed with silica gel now.

All whisky is good if it's a single malt and old. Best get others to pay for it ;)

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For crying out loud...

I think one of those sheets said HF can be produced when the product is heated, but that it is miscible(?) in water. Anyway it's apparently a deep-penetrating substance and I'd rather not have it on any of my fossils...

I'm going to try to return the fossil, and/or ask that the suppliers don't treat them with this.

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...

All whisky is good if it's a single malt and old. Best get others to pay for it ;)

I haven't quite mastered this trick.

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I have never seen any detrimental effect caused by rubbing alcohol and it evaporates without any residue.

If it does not work You will be no worse off than it is now.

Tony

Darwin said: " Man sprang from monkeys."

Will Rogers said: " Some of them didn't spring far enough."

 

My Fossil collection - My Mineral collection

My favorite thread on TFF.

 

 

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