Fossil Preparation/Cleaning

[Charmouth_V]

Hi all fossil enthusiasts,

 

I'm very new to the fossil hunting scene-live in the UK and recently went on my first hunt at Charmouth beach on our south coast (Jurassic coast)...loved it so much I plan to go regularly. Having done 2 hunts, I'm wanting to make sure I do right by the fossils I find, and to present them in all their glory. Charmouth is overflowing with Belamnites and also I have found quite a few ammonites already (mostly looking barely recognisable preserved in iron pyrite). 

 

For the belamnites,they are already pretty good but wondering if there is anything I should spray or soak them in, now they're fully exposed to air and dry.

 

For the pyratised ammonites, can anything be done to remove the pyrite that is not ammonite (or are they all one entity now?). 

 

I also have a piece that appears to b a slatey rock with ammonite imprints...bit worried it could break easily...any advice on how to treat it (see photo).

 

I would also also like help identifying one (photo attached of round fossil on its own)...I thought when I first found it that it was an ammonite,but it doesn't have rings wrapping around it. Could it b something else (or just a central bit of an ammonite with the outer rings lost?).

 

N.b. To date, I have soaked them all in tap water and used a toothbrush to clean mud off...hope that is ok?!

 

If u made it reading this far,thanks so much for your time-any help would be greatly appreciated! 

K

V

[Kane]

Welcome to the forum, and a very rewarding passion/obsession!

 

Just as a preliminary note, I'm not sure you'd want to remove the pyrite from the ammonites, but instead remove any matrix instead - you did say some of the pyrite was not part of the ammonite, but you want to be sure. You are in the right place: we have a lot of ammo collectors here, and many UK collectors, too. You might also gain more information than you could ever want from our dedicated fossil prep sub-forum thread. There are certainly instances when it is appropriate to use gentle brushing/soaking, while other times it may require more intervention using dental picks and pin vises, right up to engravers and the gold standard of air abrasion / compressors. Your first pic looks like it could use some picking and pin-vise work to remove some of the matrix to reveal more of the specimen, but especial care must always be taken not to damage the specimen. One bit of advice is to practice any of these methods on disposable/dispensable specimens first to practice the techniques before tackling the indispensable ones. It is as much an art as it is a craft, and just about every collector who takes on prep has (horror) stories about wrecking a beautiful piece with lack of technique, impatience, overzealousness, or using the wrong tool for the job.

 

Knowing the 3D aspects of your specimens is really important. Like sculpture, you are "freeing the form" from the rock. 

 

More of our seasoned ammo and belemnite prep experts are sure to chime in shortly!

[JohnBrewer]

The 3rd and 4th images are of the Charmouth mudstone. Do not get water on these! They'll dissolve. I'm telling you from experience 

 

i dont know know obviously where you're searching but the walk from Charmouth to Lyme has been productive for me for ichthyosaur bits. You'll see a big black land slip, that's Black Venn, which after a storm or heavy rain can be a great place. Do not go near the base of Black Venn after a storm, it's VERY dangerous regardless of what you see others do. Look on google for what ichthyosaur bone and vertebrae look like and keep your eyes open. The tide line is good as the tide goes out. Winter is better, less tourists picking the beaches clean

 

Well worth going on one of Paddy's fossil walks at Lyme, much better than the Charmouth organised walk but that's my personal opinion. Paddy works out of the fossil workshop 55 Broad St Lyme Regis. And GO to Lyme museum, you'll love it. Here's my recent report of the museum. 

 

 

 

 

[Wrangellian]

I don't know your material personally but with my crumbly black shale I get around here, I usually apply some glue around the edges (not on the fossil itself if I can help it), just to stabilize the specimen/matrix. That is usually enough. I've been using WeldBond white glue diluted with water and so far no real problems, but others here will recommend something like Paraloid which is more tricky to handle (I find) but easier to undo with acetone if you make a mistake. WeldBond is somewhat undoable with soaking in water but not as easily. I have also used PaleoBond (crazy glue) which soaks readily into the cracks and dries quickly, but it tends to crawl more beyond where you want it to go so you have to be careful with that. I believe it is also somewhat undoable with acetone, but as long as you get it right the first time you won't have to worry.

The important thing is to not coat your fossil in such a way as to leave a glossy finish - it's no good if you want to photograph your specimen..

I can't help you with the pyrite...

That first ammo is very nice.