Minnesota Nice Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 I am looking specifically for a preference in use as a consolidant for Verts in Whiteriver formation matrix. Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FossilDudeCO Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 I prefer paraloid as a consolidant My experiences are with Merycididon and leptauchenia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Paraloid, Butvar, or PVA. Whichever you can get the easiest and cheapest. All 3 are well used in conservation arenas. I prefer PVA. Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 37 minutes ago, FossilDudeCO said: I prefer paraloid as a consolidant My experiences are with Merycididon and leptauchenia Can you give me an idea as to ratios? Brushed on vs submerged? I have seen reference to slowing the drying process by creating an air restricted environment. Thoughts? Again this would be for material found in the white water formation. Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 36 minutes ago, Ptychodus04 said: I prefer PVA. Thanks , can you elaborate on pva Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 PVA is an acronym for the polymer polyvinyl acetate. It is a stable consolidant and adhesive soluble in acetone and denatured alcohol. It it was once sold under the trade name Vinac. It it is applied in the same manor as Butvar either by complete submersion of the specimen or local application by drop or brush. Are you looking for any specific information? Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TqB Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Whilst widely used, PVA is effectively irreversible once dry. Butvar (I think) and Paraloid remain easily soluble with acetone or alcohol. Tarquin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opisthotriton Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 With all of these products, you have to be specific with the names due to the wide variety of chemical formulas used. PVA (polyvinyl acetate) encompasses a large group of materials. Vinac (old name, now sold as McGean B-15) is a PVA, and is easily reversible/soluble with acetone and/or alcohol, same as butvar/paraloid/acryloid. You might be thinking of a PVA emulsion like Elmer's white glue, which is water-soluble when wet, and effectively irreversible once dry. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 FYI, Bought 1# Paraloid B72 from these folks $15.00 plus $8.00 shipping. Quick, easy and great customer service. Conservation Resources International, LLC http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/section_40/section40_04.htm Phone: (800) 634-6932 Fax: (703) 321-0629 E-mail: sales@conservationresources.com Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpc Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Are you looking for a field consolidant or something to use at home after you get the things cleaned? I use McGean PVA-15 ('vinac') in the field but rarely ever put anything on them when preparing them. If they are falling apart I glue them together with PaleoBond. White River bones tend to be pretty solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 23 minutes ago, jpc said: White River bones tend to be pretty solid. Sorry I wasn't more clear. Yes this is for prep at home and you're right most of the material is pretty stable I do have a scull, partial sculls and jaw bones that are fragile. This will be my first experience with prepping! Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 What are your thoughts of using paraloid at a 50-50 ratio for gluing pieces together. I like the idea that it's reversible with acetone. Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpc Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 50-50 is probably way too thick, but then I am a vinac guy. PS... vinac (McGean B-15) is easily reversible with a small dose of acetone. But yes, a thick solution of paraloid should be a good glue. I am just not sure the ratio. Did you get any instructions with your paraloid purchase? If it says 50-50, go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 50/50 was information from the technical paper referenced often here for adhesive. I have a pound on the way and I will post a picture of the consistency later. Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 My very first prep will be this jaw section. It is in two pieces and need cleaning and consolidating. I plan on posting a step by step for critique Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 50/50 is a good solution for a VERY thick glue. I would suggest pouring 50:1 (very thin) onto both bonding surfaces several times prior to applying the glue. This will help to give you a stronger bond. For this piece, I would get everything positioned right and wrap it in about 75 rubber bands. Come back in a few days and you should have a very strong yet reversible bond. Excess glue can be cut away with a scalpel and dissolved with local application of acetone. 1 Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpc Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 what sorts of tools do you plan to use on this project? By the way, nice chunk of rhino jaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 4 hours ago, Ptychodus04 said: 50/50 is a good solution for a VERY thick glue. I would suggest pouring 50:1 (very thin) onto both bonding surfaces several times prior to applying the glue. This will help to give you a stronger bond. For this piece, I would get everything positioned right and wrap it in about 75 rubber bands. Come back in a few days and you should have a very strong yet reversible bond. Excess glue can be cut away with a scalpel and dissolved with local application of acetone. Hey Kris, Thanks for the pointers. My thought is to submerge in 50:1 then bond together,THEN do some final cleaning and prep. I am concerned that the piece will crumble if I don't consolidate 1st. Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Nice Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Just now, jpc said: what sorts of tools do you plan to use on this project? By the way, nice chunk of rhino jaw. Jpc, I am open to suggestion as this is my very first vert prep. See my comment above. I have a selection of dental instruments that I plan on using to remove the traces of matrix that remain. I also like the idea of filling the joint where the repair is made with Apoxie Sculpt tinted close (but not to close) to the surrounding material. Again, I want to stress that I am looking for guidance and opinions. Frango Ut Patefaciam...I Break in Order to Reveal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Don't fully consolidate (immersion) prior to preparation if you are using hand tools. This will remove the separation between matrix and fossil making the preparation almost impossible to do by hand. If if it is so fragile that it will crumble without consolidating, you may not have a choice. I try to avoid this scenario when possible. If this is the case, repair with cyanoacrylate rather than the Paraloid and then consolidate by the brush method. Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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