3 ammonites and a stone cutting machine

[belemniten]

I want to show you three "old" finds from the lower Jurassic in Holzmaden/Dormettingen.

They are all big ammonites and because of that not that common there ...

I used this three ammonites too practice my new stone cutting machine and it works

I am very happy with it and its a new chance for me to solve my "space problem" ...

Here is it: 

     

https://www.amazon.de/Zipper-Fliesenschneider-ZI-FS115/dp/B00BP7OXLO

 

And i dont want to withheld the ammonites ...

 

1) Harpoceras falcifer with a maximal length of 28 cm:

 

 

2) Also Harpoceras (?) with a max. length of 25 cm. This exemplar need more prep ...

 

 

And the last one a bit smaller with a diameter of 20 cm but well preserved:

 

 

I am sorry for the bad photos especially the first looks very nice in real and the photo looks bad ...

But thanks for viewing !

 

 

 

[caldigger]

Actually Sebastian, your photos far exceed my abilities, I think they look great!  That stone trim saw looks like it is going to be a blast.

[belemniten]

8 hours ago, caldigger said:

Actually Sebastian, your photos far exceed my abilities, I think they look great!  That stone trim saw looks like it is going to be a blast.

Thanks caldigger !

I am also very happy with this stone cutte machine  Didnt think that it would be so good, because it was very cheap (in comparison with others).

 

[Wrangellian]

Nice ammos - I take it these are naturally shiny, have not been coated with anything?

Looks like a good machine for trimming flat fossil plates like yours.. Do you cut dry, or use water, and how do your specimens fare with exposure to water?

[belemniten]

16 hours ago, Wrangellian said:

Nice ammos - I take it these are naturally shiny, have not been coated with anything?

Looks like a good machine for trimming flat fossil plates like yours.. Do you cut dry, or use water, and how do your specimens fare with exposure to water?

Thanks Wrangellian !

They are naturally coated with pyrite, but i brushed the first and the third with lacquer ...

Its really a good machine, because its very easy to cut the stones (you dont need force )

Although its loudly and dirty ! You have to cool down the machine with water (because of that its so dirty ... )

I am not sure if i understand your last question right ....

The contact with water and the pyrite isnt problematic, but i had some problems with the lacquer

In some regions it seems that the lacquer was detached by the water.

[Wrangellian]

Yes, that's what I mean - I've had fossils in shale completely fall apart on exposure to water. I've been cutting dry (with a blade that's rated for dry cutting), and a lot of my fossils were stabilized using white glue so I've been afraid to get water on them too.

Do you have a means to completely clean and dry your pyrite fossils before adding lacquer?

[belemniten]

17 hours ago, Wrangellian said:

Yes, that's what I mean - I've had fossils in shale completely fall apart on exposure to water. I've been cutting dry (with a blade that's rated for dry cutting), and a lot of my fossils were stabilized using white glue so I've been afraid to get water on them too.

Ok ... too bad that your fossils were damaged ! 

I am not an expert with those cutting machines (far away from that ) but i think the water will not harm your fossils (also not the glue).

 

17 hours ago, Wrangellian said:

 

Do you have a means to completely clean and dry your pyrite fossils before adding lacquer?

No shadefully not ! But this would be a nice purchase ...

I normally wait 1 or 2 hours (sometimes more sometimes less) before i coat them. 

[Wrangellian]

Do you mean that, after coating with lacquer, water removed some of the lacquer? Or did you wash the fossil and then not let it dry long enough before lacquering?

 

Most of my shale fossils can stand up to short exposure to water, even the ones with white glue, but I have to be careful, and sometimes I have to add more glue into cracks or reglue parts that fall off during washing. But once it's done, it should not need it again. (I hope) 

[belemniten]

15 hours ago, Wrangellian said:

Do you mean that, after coating with lacquer, water removed some of the lacquer? 

Yes i have the feeling that the water detached the some parts of the lacquer .... but after coating it again its not visible anymore.

 

15 hours ago, Wrangellian said:

 

Most of my shale fossils can stand up to short exposure to water, even the ones with white glue, but I have to be careful, and sometimes I have to add more glue into cracks or reglue parts that fall off during washing. But once it's done, it should not need it again. (I hope) 

I wish you the best luck ! By the way which fossils do you find in your area ?

[Wrangellian]

Here is my field guide to my usual site:

Just skim thru it to get to the pics.

[Ridgehiker]

Every type of matrix is unique so good to always bring home a few pieces to experiment on.

 

I try not to disturb shale specimens in the field.  I bring them home and wash them and then let them dry slowly (if fragile I will mist them).  Then, before using the saw to cut them, I will resoak the shale for a few hours in clean water.  This will swell up the matrix a bit And strengthen the bond between the layers.  Then I cut them ( using a tile saw).  After cutting, I let them dry slowly.  

 

This method is especially useful for cutting specimens in thin layers or flaky matrix.  Also useful with graptolites and trilobites.

[belemniten]

5 hours ago, Wrangellian said:

Here is my field guide to my usual site:

Just skim thru it to get to the pics.

Thanks Wrangellian (and sry that i missed this topic) ....

Really nice finds and now i know why you are so carefully with cutting your specimen

 

5 hours ago, Canadawest said:

Every type of matrix is unique so good to always bring home a few pieces to experiment on.

 

I try not to disturb shale specimens in the field.  I bring them home and wash them and then let them dry slowly (if fragile I will mist them).  Then, before using the saw to cut them, I will resoak the shale for a few hours in clean water.  This will swell up the matrix a bit And strengthen the bond between the layers.  Then I cut them ( using a tile saw).  After cutting, I let them dry slowly.  

 

This method is especially useful for cutting specimens in thin layers or flaky matrix.  Also useful with graptolites and trilobites.

 This seems to be a good method !

Fortunately the shale on this ammonites (and in general on fossils from Holzmaden) isnt that fragile.

But i will try this if i found more breakable specimen !