Air Scribes for Green River Fish Prep

[Cluros]

Hi,

I just got back from Kemmerer with a large amount of fish fossils to prep and have an Aero scribe. I was wondering if a Micro Jack would be better as the vibration of the Aero knocks some of the scales off. If the answer is yes, which Micro Jack would be best in your opinion. If anyone has other prep suggestions I would also be interested. I've read all of the old posts that I could find on the subject.

[Fossildude19]

@Ptychodus04  @RJB  @FossilDudeCO @sseth

[RJB]

Scales coming off, you must be in the split fish layers.    I started out with a sharpened chainsaw file and with the split fish you can still loose some scales and such.  I dont think there is any real way around it.  Sometimes the fish has loose material under the rock or a recently exposed fish where places become loose while drying.   I have done the 'stop and glue' technique a few times also, but not just to try and save scales, but even rib bones. 

 

RB

[sseth]

For the split fish I prefer the Microjack 3 for most prep including stingrays but for 18 inch I like my chicago.  For more delicate pieces like shrimp antennae I use a microjack 1.  I also love just using an xacto knife from time to time.

[FossilDAWG]

Regarding the "split fish", is there a way to glue the part/counterpart together and then expose the fish? I have some that have 1/2 the bones/scales on one side and 1/2 on the other; it would be great if these could be "combined" to make 1 specimen with more of the skeleton.

 

Don

[jpc]

I am pretty sure there is no good way to glue two halves back together if they split unevenly.  I usually prep split fish by hand... Shapened dental tools.  

[FossilDudeCO]

@FossilDAWG I have glued 2 sides back together and prepped from the top, but it only works as JPC said if they are pretty flat on each half.

 

@Cluros I am guessing from the description that you are working split fish as well. The Aero is a bit aggressive, but the micros work wonders. If you do not have a micro you can use a Dremel engraver delicately. As JP mentioned, dental pickas are always great, as well as a box cutter. I use my box cutter to wedge off thin pieces in the field.

 

I know most people beat me to this one, but maybe I have offered some more info for you  

[sseth]

1 hour ago, FossilDAWG said:

Regarding the "split fish", is there a way to glue the part/counterpart together and then expose the fish? I have some that have 1/2 the bones/scales on one side and 1/2 on the other; it would be great if these could be "combined" to make 1 specimen with more of the skeleton.

 

Don

Don

 

I do glue larger fish back together from time to time.  The way I have found best is to first mark the rocks after you have placed them in the appropriate position so you know how they go back together.  Next apply a thin layer of super-thin superglue to the side where the bone is missing.  This stabilizes the matrix and creates a surface for the other material to bond to.  After that has dried, apply a layer of thick superglue to the other side and put them back in place and clamp them for at least 12 hours, using your marks to ensure they are back in place correctly.  This is important as it will not work if they are off even the tiniest bit.  You are now ready to to prep down.  Of only a few parts came off on one side you can even try splitting the rock again and in most cases it will trnasfer the bone over.  I prefer the prep down method better though.  Much safer.

 

Seth

[RJB]

Hey Cluros, also, take your time.  Dont rush it.   You can always put it aside and come back later with 'fresh eyes' and renewed vigor.  But really, its a learning experience that will be tons of fun.  good luck man.

 

RB

[Ptychodus04]

I like the Micro Jack 4 for my detail work under the scope. You can get really close with little air blowing on it.

[Cluros]

Thanks for all of the advice. I have the patience of Job so taking my time is not an issue. It sounds like micro jacks work well for preparing fish. I now have to convince my economic advisor (wife) to let me invest in a micro jack. I had her do her first trilobite prep with a U Dig trilobite because the material is so easy to work with and she loved it. Getting a micro jack might be in the cards.

[Ptychodus04]

4 hours ago, Cluros said:

Thanks for all of the advice. I have the patience of Job so taking my time is not an issue. It sounds like micro jacks work well for preparing fish. I now have to convince my economic advisor (wife) to let me invest in a micro jack. I had her do her first trilobite prep with a U Dig trilobite because the material is so easy to work with and she loved it. Getting a micro jack might be in the cards.

 

They are well worth the cost. One thing to note is that the stylus of the Micro Jack is so small it pulverizes the matrix rather than chipping it away as an Aro or larger scribe will. This makes the need for high magnification and bright lighting ever more important as it is harder to utilize the natural separation layer between matrix and fossil.

[oilshale]

On ‎18‎.‎07‎.‎2017 at 8:58 PM, sseth said:

Don

 

I do glue larger fish back together from time to time.  The way I have found best is to first mark the rocks after you have placed them in the appropriate position so you know how they go back together.  Next apply a thin layer of super-thin superglue to the side where the bone is missing.  This stabilizes the matrix and creates a surface for the other material to bond to.  After that has dried, apply a layer of thick superglue to the other side and put them back in place and clamp them for at least 12 hours, using your marks to ensure they are back in place correctly.  This is important as it will not work if they are off even the tiniest bit.  You are now ready to to prep down.  Of only a few parts came off on one side you can even try splitting the rock again and in most cases it will trnasfer the bone over.  I prefer the prep down method better though.  Much safer.

 

Seth

 

Never tried this with split fish from Green river Fm, but this is a very common  method for Solnhofen stuff.

I prefer a low viscosity polyester resin (Akemie Marmorkitt 1000) - depending on temperature and amount of hardener, setting time will be between 2 and 20 minutes (Superglue is too fast for me). Solnhofen stuff tends to split right in the middle of a fish. The head of this 58cm / 23"  Solnhofenamia was on one side of the slab - most of the body on the counter slab . Neither of them were complete - so glueing the head onto the counter slab and prepping down from the top was the only way to get a 'complete' fish.

Most of the time I use a HW 322: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fB81Mb6D4 ... e=youtu.be 

[Ptychodus04]

I'm working on some fish for @abctriplets from @sseth's quarry (I think) and they are really delicate. If I drop some Vinac on the matrix before I hit it with the Micro Jack, everything holds together pretty well. The real trick is to let the acetone fully evaporate before going after the matrix or you will peel bones up with the partially set Vinac.

 

Also, don't attempt without some serious magnification. I'm using 10x but thinking about bumping up to 20x. Add more Vinac after a few square millimeters are exposed or the bones will still come off.