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Tile Saw for Hash Plates


Nimravis

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I love hash plates, but the problem is that they are usually big and heavy. I have tried to break them down a bit with a hammer, and though it works sometimes, I also do damage a fossil on occasion. So I usually either leave them at the site, or if I do bring them home, I put them in a tote and forget about them.

 

Flash back to Black Friday and I was walking through a local chain Do It Yourself Hardware store and on an endcap I saw a small diamond blade tile saw for $35.00. I decided to buy it and see how it worked. Prior to putting it together, I decided to check the internet for reviews, and a lot were not good. But I think that was more geared to a person who was going to use it day in and day out. So I decided to keep it and try it out today. I have to say that I was extremely pleased with this little piece of equipment. It cut many Ordovician hash plates down to a size that makes the fossils easier to store. Many of the larger hash plates that I have in my collection have a lot going on, so I just trimmed them down a bit. Other plates that just had one fossil on it I cut the access off so the fossil was just left.

 

If you are looking for a little saw that in my opinion works well, this is it.

 

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Here are a couple of individual fossils that I trimmed down.

 

 

 

 

 

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28 minutes ago, KimTexan said:

Cool sounds like a pretty good buy. I could use one of those.

For a plastic saw, it works nice and is easy to use- you would like it.

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We will see what Santa brings this year. Who knows it could be one of those. 

I don’t usually buy fossils, but I’ve been admiring the polished coral fossils lately. They remind me a little of millifiori glass, which I’ve always liked.

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Very nice! I also use a tile saw to cut matrix slabs that can handle getting wet and aren't too thick. For the others, I use a diamond cutting wheel on my angle grinder. It kicks up a ton of dust but will eat through some serious rock without the water issues. I always wear a respirator when dry cutting BTW.

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2 hours ago, Ptychodus04 said:

Very nice! I also use a tile saw to cut matrix slabs that can handle getting wet and aren't too thick. For the others, I use a diamond cutting wheel on my angle grinder. It kicks up a ton of dust but will eat through some serious rock without the water issues. I always wear a respirator when dry cutting BTW.

I make a lot of dust just trying to process just about anything. I don’t always see it as I’m making it, but there is always a thick layer of dust coating me and everything when I stop. I’m just learning to process. I’m doing it pretty low budget with my Dremel.

I’ve thought that I need to wear something so I’m not breathing in the dust, but so far I haven’t gone out and got anything for that.

I’ll end up with COPD if I don’t watch it.

I’ve also thought about making a makeshift tent around what I’m working on. Ideally I’d have a bench top hood to work under. I use chemical fume and biological hoods at work. Those would be great, but they’re too pricy.

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10 minutes ago, KimTexan said:

I make a lot of dust just trying to process just about anything. I don’t always see it as I’m making it, but there is always a thick layer of dust coating me and everything when I stop. I’m just learning to process. I’m doing it pretty low budget with my Dremel.

I’ve thought that I need to wear something so I’m not breathing in the dust, but so far I haven’t gone out and got anything for that.

I’ll end up with COPD if I don’t watch it.

I’ve also thought about making a makeshift tent around what I’m working on. Ideally I’d have a bench top hood to work under. I use chemical fume and biological hoods at work. Those would be great, but they’re too pricy.

 

You will be lucky if all you get is COPD. You’re also likely to wind up with scoliosis or pulmonary fibrosis. I watched my father die from pulmonary fibrosis after working in a foundry. It was not fun for him or me.

 

You can get a commercial grade respirator at Home Depot for around $40.00. It is good for particulates down to .3 microns as well as vapors from acids and solvents. I wear this every time I prep. I also use a homemade fine dust collector hooked to my shop vac. I posted about it in the tools section. It doesn’t do beans for larger debris but it sucks up the fine airborne stuff amazingly well.

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@Ptychodus04 ok thank you very much for the suggestion and insight. 

I work at UT Southwestern in organ transplant. We do a lot of lung transplants for COPD and pulmonary fibrosis. It is sad to see people struggle with those diseases. Many times it was preventable, but people just didn’t have the knowledge of the danger different things posed to their health.

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14 minutes ago, KimTexan said:

@Ptychodus04 ok thank you very much for the suggestion and insight. 

I work at UT Southwestern in organ transplant. We do a lot of lung transplants for COPD and pulmonary fibrosis. It is sad to see people struggle with those diseases. Many times it was preventable, but people just didn’t have the knowledge of the danger different things posed to their health.

 

I’m sure you’ve seen some stuff in your life! I tend to hit the safety topic pretty hard when it comes up. Rock dust is much nastier than most people think. Minimal exposure won’t do anything but if you get into serious prepping that exposure goes up really fast. Then, get into abrasive work and we’re talking about some serious lung wrecking components. :blink:

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20 hours ago, Nimravis said:

For a plastic saw, it works nice and is easy to use- you would like it.

A tile saw for reduction of fossils for storage was one of the best purchases I ever made.  Mine is a bigger, heavier duty version, but whatever works!  Also useful for sectioning corals and bryozoans.

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31 minutes ago, Ptychodus04 said:

 

I’m sure you’ve seen some stuff in your life! I tend to hit the safety topic pretty hard when it comes up. Rock dust is much nastier than most people think. Minimal exposure won’t do anything but if you get into serious prepping that exposure goes up really fast. Then, get into abrasive work and we’re talking about some serious lung wrecking components. :blink:

You’re from Texas. You know how encrusted ammonites and other fossils can get, especially if encased in matrix. I’m sure they’re that way everywhere though. 

I don’t know all the terms for fossil prep, but I’m pretty sure I’m doing some abrasive work. 

One of the things I’d use such a saw for is to cut off matrix to get closer to the fossil. I have a nautiloid I hammered out of the marl in Hurst a couple weeks ago that has 3-4 inches of marl matrix on one side. I’m not sure how to get it off, but the saw would get me a lot closer. I’m trying drilling holes at the base of the matrix with the hopes I can knock the block off without damaging the nautiloid. If nothing else it’s good practice and a learning experience.

I need to try other locations where the fossils don’t need as much prep work to look good. I don’t think there are too many fossil utopias out there where fossils come out clean and perfect, but I can hope and dream of such a place.;)

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Yep, my tile saw is invaluable for trimming my finds.  Mine is a 7 inch model from Harbor Freight but I’m sure your 4 inch model will do fine.  And you got it at an unheard of price.  I assume that included the blade.

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1 hour ago, Sagebrush Steve said:

Yep, my tile saw is invaluable for trimming my finds.  Mine is a 7 inch model from Harbor Freight but I’m sure your 4 inch model will do fine.  And you got it at an unheard of price.  I assume that included the blade.

Yes - it was a Black Friday 4 hour deal.

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10 hours ago, KimTexan said:

You’re from Texas. You know how encrusted ammonites and other fossils can get, especially if encased in matrix. I’m sure they’re that way everywhere though. 

I don’t know all the terms for fossil prep, but I’m pretty sure I’m doing some abrasive work. 

One of the things I’d use such a saw for is to cut off matrix to get closer to the fossil. I have a nautiloid I hammered out of the marl in Hurst a couple weeks ago that has 3-4 inches of marl matrix on one side. I’m not sure how to get it off, but the saw would get me a lot closer. I’m trying drilling holes at the base of the matrix with the hopes I can knock the block off without damaging the nautiloid. If nothing else it’s good practice and a learning experience.

I need to try other locations where the fossils don’t need as much prep work to look good. I don’t think there are too many fossil utopias out there where fossils come out clean and perfect, but I can hope and dream of such a place.;)

 

You’re right, I’m well acquainted with the gnarly matrix on our local fossils. The problem is complicated by the ornamentation on the ammonites. It gives the matrix more to stick to. 

 

I’ve employed saws to trim matrix off a specimen for easier prep. If you’re sure of the extents of the fossil, it can save a ton of time chipping away at the matrix. Chipping works better than grinding as a general rule (there are times you need to grind) for matrix removal. If you’re doing this by hand, it’s simply a small hammer, a small chisel, and a large drywall screw. At least that’s where my prep began (minus the chisel).

 

Let me know if you find the Wonka’s Chocolate Factory of fossil sights where normal physical laws are suspended. :D Although I do enjoy prepping, it would be nice to find some stuff ready to go! 

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Looks like just the thing for that job, though unless you've got a ton of specimens and trying to cram a bunch into a Riker mount or something, I hate to see nice natural hand-sized pieces trimmed down so drastically! :faint:

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5 hours ago, Wrangellian said:

Looks like just the thing for that job, though unless you've got a ton of specimens and trying to cram a bunch into a Riker mount or something, I hate to see nice natural hand-sized pieces trimmed down so drastically! :faint:

I agree- I only do it for certain plates. I have others that tell a story of life and I would not cut those down.

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6 minutes ago, JohnBrewer said:

@Nimravis one thing with these saws is make sure you empty all the water and dry the blade. They do rust up quickly, well my first blade did. 

Thanks John, I did dry it out and wipe the blade a little bit- hope that is ok for now. I plan on using it again on Saturday and I will do a better job with the blade. Thanks for the advice.

 

Ralph

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2 hours ago, Nimravis said:

I agree- I only do it for certain plates. I have others that tell a story of life and I would not cut those down.

It looks like that brach piece had imprints and other things around it that you cut through...?

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45 minutes ago, Nimravis said:

Thanks John, I did dry it out and wipe the blade a little bit- hope that is ok for now. I plan on using it again on Saturday and I will do a better job with the blade. Thanks for the advice.

 

Ralph

Does it have a metal blade?  Mine has a masonary blade which is nice, because it won't slice off fingers and hands and won't rust.

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14 minutes ago, Wrangellian said:

It looks like that brach piece had imprints and other things around it that you cut through...?

Yes it did- almost anything from the St. Leon and Lawrenceburg, Indiana area that I stop at while heading South has tons of fossils, but if it is not complete or of significance, I will reduce to get a particular fossil, otherwise I would not be able to move in my Fossil room. 

 

A plate like below I would not reduce.

 

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12 minutes ago, Peat Burns said:

Does it have a metal blade?  Mine has a masonary blade which is nice, because it won't slice off fingers and hands and won't rust.

This blade is metal and it would take a finger off.  :dinothumb:

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