Is this turtle fossil real?

[ynot]

1 minute ago, Moozillion said:

caldigger has suggested I put it away someplace safe until the weather warms up and I have time to learn more before stabilizing it. So that's my current plan. 

That is probably the best choice.

Another option is to send it to a professional prepper, and have someone experienced with prepping do it for You.

[Ptychodus04]

These are all fair and honest questions. I mix my PVA by volume. It is as easy as measure the right amount of plastic beads for the desired amount of solution, dump them into the acetone and shake. A solution this thin should dissolve very quickly (overnight at the longest). I use a ton of this stuff so I mix it up in old detergent bottles. For your needs, a mason jar with a lid would work well.

 

I might amend mend the procedure since the bones seem to be very brittle. Submerging then in solution could loosen them further (while it is wet). You can also mix up your solution an brush on 2 or 3 liberal coats with a disposable paintbrush.

 

Once it is dry, your bones should be well consolidated. You can simply allow your extra solution to dry out and toss the jar. 

 

If you’re outside, a respirator isn’t needed for this. Feel free to send me a PM if you have more specific questions. 

[Bobby Rico]

@Moozillion I have in the past had very good and lasting results with a high quality Arist clear varnish for acrylic paint that was brushed onto some North Sea Fossils mainly Mammoth teeth and bones . It stabilised, dried clear and has lasted about 12years so far . If you do try any of the methods described on this thread, I would do a test strip on the underside.

Also I think museums use Paraloid as s varnish in conservation on oil paintings, so a high quality Artist Acrylic varnish can’t be too dissimilar in its make up and effectively.

 

 

 

cheers bobby 

 

 

[Crazyhen]

This is mine.  Its shell unfortunately was lost.  I acquired it some 20 years ago from a Chinese products shop and no locality was known.  Based on its matrix, I guess it’s Anosteira maomingensis.

[Moozillion]

1 hour ago, Crazyhen said:

This is mine.  Its shell unfortunately was lost.  I acquired it some 20 years ago from a Chinese products shop and no locality was known.  Based on its matrix, I guess it’s Anosteira maomingensis.

WOW!!!! They really DO look so much alike!!!!!

[Crazyhen]

The shell shape of both specimens look a bit different.  Now I am not sure if they are both A. maomingensis or they belong to two different Anosteira.

[-Andy-]

7 hours ago, Bobby Rico said:

@Moozillion I have in the past had very good and lasting results with a high quality Arist clear varnish for acrylic paint that was brushed onto some North Sea Fossils mainly Mammoth teeth and bones . It stabilised, dried clear and has lasted about 12years so far . If you do try any of the methods described on this thread, I would do a test strip on the underside.

Also I think museums use Paraloid as s varnish in conservation on oil paintings, so a high quality Artist Acrylic varnish can’t be too dissimilar in its make up and effectively.

 

cheers bobby 

 

I echo Bobby's advise to use high quality artist varnish.

 

When I got this Anosteira maomingensis, it was crumbling away. I took a big risk and washed it, then I applied artist varnish over it. It's lasted me well to this day.

 

@Crazyhen Yeah I'd say it's an A. maomingensis.

[Ptychodus04]

I humbly disagree with the varnish recommendation. Yes, it will hold the specimen together but only superficially. The point of consolidation is to stabilize the bone in its entirety. The varnish is not nearly thin enough to soak deeply into the bones. It will allow the possibility of future damage to occur under the thin layer of bone sealed by the varnish.

 

You want a solution that is the consistency of water to soak deeply into the bone and completely stabilize it. The 50:1 ratio I recommended does this very well.

[Bobby Rico]

I have to say the Artist varnish has worked very well for me on North Sea fossils but they may only haves been crumbling on the outside then because they are solid now and has been for a long time . Also Andy has had a positive experience with Artist Varnish but Ptychodus04 said it is not thin enough to penetrate rock completely. Artist Varnish is thinner than wood Varnish but not that thin. You will be best to following the advice form @Ptychodus04 he has the greater experience. In fact I have use both methods but not very often as I find very little bone.

I have also used the Varnish on  some ammonite form Watchet, Somerset, UK which are very compressed , easy chip off and thinner than egg shell. Also works perfectly fine.  Sorry if I have confused maters but @Ptychodus04 does know this stuff.

[Ptychodus04]

@Bobby Rico I often use a solution of PVA that is the viscosity you are describing for shells (trilobites, ammonites, etc) as they don’t require the deep penetration that fossil bone requires.

[Bobby Rico]

2 minutes ago, Ptychodus04 said:

@Bobby Rico I often use a solution of PVA that is the viscosity you are describing for shells (trilobites, ammonites, etc) as they don’t require the deep penetration that fossil bone requires.

Thanks I keep it in mind when I run out of Varnish. The Varnish I have does a great job for me on the ammonites that need it and is not to glossy. 

 

Cheers bobby