First air scribe

[Phevo]

Hello everyone

 

I have decided to start prepping with some mechanic aid and was hoping for some advice.

 

The compressor I have runs at 8 bar, 120l/min and has a 6l tank. 

 

The air scribe I am considering is from Krantz and has the following technical data:

 

36000 beats/min
air consumption: 25–30 l/min 
pressure: 3–7 bar 
weight: 250 g 
size: Ø 17 x 160 mm 
length of the tube: ca. 2,5 m with internat. plug-in coupling 
pointer: acute, hard metal, medium, 38 mm

 

My first question is if it looks like a good choice for a first scribe, any other alternatives anyone can suggest?

 

My second question is if I need an external component to control the maksimum air pressure?

On the compressor I can adjust the pressure range it runs on from x-8 bar, where x is the minimum pressure i allow it to go, before it brings it back up to 8 bar, but the scribe prescribe a 3-7 bar running pressure.

 

Any spare parts worth getting straight off the bat?

 

Best regards

[Kane]

I’ve heard good things about Krantz from some Russian preparators I know, but is this for fine detail or bulk matrix removal? As far as the pressure, the dial on the compressor should be fine if you set it to the specifications of the tool; it should only blow air at the pressure you set it at. Mine has two gauges: the capacity/maximum, and the one it pushes air through.

 

Ok, I just had a look at it (model W224). This should be fine for general purpose detailing, comparable to Paleo Aro. One thing I would recommend if you don't already have it is some kind of desiccant/moisture trapo to keep the air dry to prevent moisture from interfering with the function of the tool. 

[Phevo]

11 hours ago, Kane said:

I’ve heard good things about Krantz from some Russian preparators I know, but is this for fine detail or bulk matrix removal? As far as the pressure, the dial on the compressor should be fine if you set it to the specifications of the tool; it should only blow air at the pressure you set it at. Mine has two gauges: the capacity/maximum, and the one it pushes air through.

 

Ok, I just had a look at it (model W224). This should be fine for general purpose detailing, comparable to Paleo Aro. One thing I would recommend if you don't already have it is some kind of desiccant/moisture trapo to keep the air dry to prevent moisture from interfering with the function of the tool. 

 

Thanks Kane

 

Right now it would be general purpose, later on I might get two specific scribes for bulk removal and fine detail. 

 

I looked at the schematics and it does have two gauges, so I should be able to control both the range and maksimum pressure afterall.

 

I'm ordering a moisture trap now, are there any air scribe tips worth getting straight away?

 

Best regards

 

 

[Kane]

2 hours ago, Phevo said:

 

I'm ordering a moisture trap now, are there any air scribe tips worth getting straight away?

 

Best regards

 

 

I would go with a slightly longer tip if you're needing to get into tighter spots. Carbide will be much better than diamond tip, of course. The tip your unit comes with should be good. Once you get it, give it a try and let us know (I'm curious about how the Krantz performs!). 

[RJB]

  I live in cold weather country here in Montana and found by adding 50 feet of hose from the compressor and then to a water trap, it greatly decreases the water making it all the way to my tools.  Good luck

 

 

[Ptychodus04]

My water trap sits at a level with the bottom of my compressor tank and the hose runs up the wall and over the door to get to my bench. This has done well to keep the water out of my tools. I only use my desiccant filter on my abrasive line. The scribes aren't nearly as sensitive to a bit of water so the desiccant doesn't have to be replaced nearly as often. I like @RJB's suggestion of the added hose before the water trap. I may add a coiled line between the two on my system so it acts kind of like the cooling coil on an old Kentucky moonshine still!

[Phevo]

Thanks for the advice everyone,

 

I ordered the above mentioned air scribe and will be trying it out some time next week

 

 

[Mark Kmiecik]

9 hours ago, Ptychodus04 said:

I may add a coiled line between the two on my system so it acts kind of like the cooling coil on an old Kentucky moonshine still!

1/4" copper coil in a tub/container filled with ice water when the air is hot and humid and a drain at the bottom of the container and another at the lowest part of the coil should do nicely.

[Ptychodus04]

1 hour ago, Mark Kmiecik said:

1/4" copper coil in a tub/container filled with ice water when the air is hot and humid and a drain at the bottom of the container and another at the lowest part of the coil should do nicely.

We have mostly hot and humid here, and it is less of a problem for condensation in the lines since the heat keeps the moisture that gets past the trap as vapor in the lines. The real issue is the two or three "cold" weeks that we have here. The colder air causes the vapor to condense in the line and work its way out the end of the scribe. A 25' hose coiled up ahead of the trap would provide enough surface area to promote condensation. Then, this would get picked up in the trap more easily.

[Mark Kmiecik]

Yeah, but the copper tubing can be used for other things when you're not prepping fossils. 

[Ptychodus04]

13 minutes ago, Mark Kmiecik said:

Yeah, but the copper tubing can be used for other things when you're not prepping fossils. 

 

Hmm. My hunting lease has 2 huge corn fields...