Need help. General bone cleaning.

[GrandJunction]

Hi all.

 

Complete novice and haven't been able to find a thread that specifically addresses what I'm trying to do.  Basically, I'd like to figure out the best way to further clean the specimens in the photos attached to help accentuate the color and details.  So far, I've only given them a thorough rinsing under warm water and a light brushing to remove some of the exterior dirt.  

 

What, if any, next step can I take?  Mild chemical solution?  Blasting with baking soda?  Further soaking in water? 

 

Also, I'd be curious to know what type of chemical application would be appropriate to bring out that varnished wet look?  I've seen several chemicals mentioned in other threads, but want to ensure that whatever I end up using is proper for my application.  Again, being a real novice, I'm trying to eliminate any errors due to my lack in general knowledge.  

 

Thanks for the help as always.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ludwigia]

Your best bet for getting that "varnished wet look" as you call it would be to cut, sand and polish.

[GrandJunction]

2 minutes ago, Ludwigia said:

Your best bet for getting that "varnished wet look" as you call it would be to cut, sand and polish.

I was thinking the same thing as far as some of the less complete gembone pieces I've found on my ranchland.  That was until I checked the prices on all the cutting and polishing equipment.  Obviously, if I found anything that was more complete, I'd do my best to keep it that way.

 

Without going in that direction, I'm trying to figure out a simpler and more cost effective method to present some of my better pieces more naturally.  The pictures attached were just several examples of the general state of things I'm working with.  

 

Perhaps giving them just a basic washing and scrubbing is the best I can do?  Would chemical washing or abrasive blasting make any noticeable difference?  I would have to purchase an air compressor and blasting equipment, so I'm trying to weigh the cost / benefit of lots of money spent for minimal gains.

 

Thanks

[Ludwigia]

I wouldn't try anything with chemicals or abraders. It wouldn't make all that much improvement in my opinion, or could even cause some damage. I suppose you could try some kind of stone conservation laquer on a piece or 2 to try it out, but I still think the best solution is to cut and polish or tumble. Maybe you could find someone in your neighborhood who would do some commission work for you? That wouldn't be nearly as expensive as buying equipment.

[Ptychodus04]

If you want to leave it in its current form and make it shiny, get some Paraloid B72 and some acetone. Mix 1 part Paraloid with 30 parts acetone (this is more viscous than my preferred consolidation solution) and brush it on. This will give it the “wet look” you’re looking for.

 

As for further cleaning, there’s not much anyone could do to these pieces.

[grandpa]

OK, so I may be alone in this position, judging by the above responses, but I would leave the specimens as-is showing their natural look.

 

They look like fossilized bones, which they are.  They have no dirt nor matrix on them that would need to be removed.  They do not appear to have silica mineralization (e.g., agate or jasper), so cutting them would likely not give you a surface that would take a polish.  Coating them with Paraloid B72 and acetone, while it would give them a wet look, would (in my opinion) give them an unnatural look that would detract from their value. 

 

Enjoy them as they are in their natural state.  That's my 2 cents, anyway.

[Ptychodus04]

24 minutes ago, grandpa said:

OK, so I may be alone in this position, judging by the above responses, but I would leave the specimens as-is showing their natural look.

 

They look like fossilized bones, which they are.  They have no dirt nor matrix on them that would need to be removed.  They do not appear to have silica mineralization (e.g., agate or jasper), so cutting them would likely not give you a surface that would take a polish.  Coating them with Paraloid B72 and acetone, while it would give them a wet look, would (in my opinion) give them an unnatural look that would detract from their value. 

 

Enjoy them as they are in their natural state.  That's my 2 cents, anyway.

PSA... Don’t read the below as combative. I think it might read that way but I can’t find a more innocuous way to write it.  I am a gorilla with a shovel after all.
 

These bones are souvenirasaurus, there’s no innate monetary value in them unless cut and polished for jewelry so the only value is in the desired display purpose of the owner. 

The OP specifically asked how to give them a wet look. Responses to that request were made without regard for personal viewing preferences. 
 

That being said, if the OP was looking for a best practice for conservation, my response would have been only slightly modified (i.e. a different ratio for the Paraloid).

[GrandJunction]

Thank you all for the responses so far.  Each method gives me a different perspective with the pros and cons.

 

What I should have included in my origional post was at least their sizes, as that would certainly affect opinions.  From left to right, they are 4.5lbs, 3lbs, and 1lb.  They are also only representative of many pieces up to about 6lbs, as well as your smaller several ounce samples, so I do have test pieces.  Some of them are "regular" bones and some are gembone.  

 

Now knowing the sizes we are talking about, does that change opinions?  I know these aren't even close to being pristine samples with real scientific value, which would obviously increase monetary value, but I do believe, in my humble opinion, that my larger samples could be worth some decent pocket change. 

 

Now, I'm not looking to sell anything at this point, so my goal is to keep them in a state that is presentable, but also would not detract from their value in the long run.  As far as the gembone I have is concerned, I'm leaning toward the option of having some of the larger and nicer pieces cut and polished, since ultimately that is the only way to reveal their colors and should I decide to sell anything, the end buyer would be doing the same, so value is only added by doing it myself and I get the enjoyment for my own display.  There is a rock and mineral club nearby that has an open workshop for a small fee, so I think that might be my best option as of now to work the material.

 

Thanks again.

 

Edited October 11, 2019 by GrandJunction
Words

[GrandJunction]

Attached is a nicer piece of gembone I have.  It is pictured wet.  There is a large crack on one end, but it does not run the length of the piece.

 

 

[Ptychodus04]

My advice doesn't change at all. If you don't like the way the Paraloid looks, you can soak the piece in acetone to take it off without any detriment to the bone.

[GrandJunction]

1 minute ago, Ptychodus04 said:

My advice doesn't change at all. If you don't like the way the Paraloid looks, you can soak the piece in acetone to take it off without any detriment to the bone.

Good to know it is reversible.  I think I'll try it on some of the smaller pieces to see how it looks.  It's just so striking the difference it makes when you look at the bone wet vs. dry.  Goes from "eh" to "ahhh."  

[GrandJunction]

8 minutes ago, Ptychodus04 said:

My advice doesn't change at all. If you don't like the way the Paraloid looks, you can soak the piece in acetone to take it off without any detriment to the bone.

Just looked online to see where I can buy this material.  Surprisingly not on Amazon.  Seems that it can be pretty pricey.  Any idea how much I should be buying?  Obviously it would depend on how many pieces I apply it to.  Let's just say a dozen the size of your fist.

[Ptychodus04]

1 minute ago, GrandJunction said:

Just looked online to see where I can buy this material.  Surprisingly not on Amazon.  Seems that it can be pretty pricey.  Any idea how much I should be buying?  Obviously it would depend on how many pieces I apply it to.  Let's just say a dozen the size of your fist.

Take a look at talas.com Their Paraloid B72 is pretty cheap. A little goes a very long way. The acetone will out-price the Paraloid in about a second.

[GrandJunction]

2 minutes ago, Ptychodus04 said:

Take a look at talas.com Their Paraloid B72 is pretty cheap. A little goes a very long way. The acetone will out-price the Paraloid in about a second.

Thanks. Any tips for application?  Type of brush, number of layers to apply, etc?  

[Ptychodus04]

4 minutes ago, GrandJunction said:

Thanks. Any tips for application?  Type of brush, number of layers to apply, etc?  

I use a cheap natural bristle paint brush. Do one coat and see what it looks like. The more you add, the glossier it gets (to a point).

[GrandJunction]

1 minute ago, Ptychodus04 said:

I use a cheap natural bristle paint brush. Do one coat and see what it looks like. The more you add, the glossier it gets (to a point).

Thanks.  One last, I hope, question.  You said it can be removed by placing it back in the acetone.  What is this process like?  Am I dunking it and then washing with water?  Paint it on and then rinse?

[Ptychodus04]

5 minutes ago, GrandJunction said:

Thanks.  One last, I hope, question.  You said it can be removed by placing it back in the acetone.  What is this process like?  Am I dunking it and then washing with water?  Paint it on and then rinse?

Typically it’s a soak for an hour max and let dry. If the coating is very light, you can get it to come off by rubbing a rag soaked in acetone on the bone.

[GrandJunction]

4 minutes ago, Ptychodus04 said:

Typically it’s a soak for an hour max and let dry. If the coating is very light, you can get it to come off by rubbing a rag soaked in acetone on the bone.

Awesome.  Thanks for all the tips.  I'll try to update the thread once I have the chance to order the materials and have the time to experiment a little.  Scrambling to complete some outdoor projects before winter hits.  

[holdinghistory]

I am a little late, but you can do dino bones with an air abrasive. Talking to people who collect out there it is typically bi-carb at a high flow rate (I have done the same on a few Hadrosaur pieces I have prepped). But I agree that polishing would be the best option for these. You can polish by hand too. Takes longer, but that is how I do my amber and I have had excellent results. You can use an aggressive grit to shape it initially, then go down finer and finer. For amber I usually stop at about 2,000-3,000 grit with wet sandpaper. Then I finish off with white jeweler's rouge on a buffing wheel. The buffers can be purchased relatively inexpensively, especially compared to cabbing machines. Not sure if this same process would work for the dino bones, but I would imagine hand polishing would be possible if you are patient and don't mind putting in a little elbow grease.