Air scribes

[Metopolychas]

Another air scribe question. I'm looking at scribes and after some reading I've understood there's two main types based on how they function. Don't remember the words but one types was 'push lever' or something and the other i can't remember at all. The point is that one is kinder to the rock than the other. My local stone is mostly limestone (some of it mildly metamorphosed) and shale. Shale I know is defined as soft rock, but what does limestone sort under? I have a hard time doing any prepping with hand tools, and most of the best fossils are found in the lime.

 

So my question is, should I go for the kinder but also weaker type of scribe or do I need the stronger one for the limestone fossils? 

 

Possibly worth mentioning is that it seems a lot of the fossils are made of mudrock and damage REALLY easily. 

[jpc]

What sort of air scribe to buy is a tough question.  Budget is very important.  Some of the best cost more than 500 USD.  But a 100 dollar scribe can be great as well.  A lot also depends on how much you will be using it.  

 

For starters, though, and Aro type tool is what I would recommend.  PaleoTools makes one they call it the PaleoAro.  But there are cheaper versions available, here in the States anyway, from auto parts stores and other places.  I don't think Aro makes them any more, which is too bad, cuz they are a Scandinavian company.  I googled 'engraving pen' and got this one:

 

https://www.wish.com/product/5950dc3d3d48c86ffbad3a02?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=US&_force_currency_code=USD&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=5950dc3d3d48c86ffbad3a02&ad_cc=US&ad_curr=USD&ad_price=86.00&campaign_id=6487461784&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5ZOV7dm35QIVIeeGCh1CAA-3EAQYCyABEgLWx_D_BwE

 

 This is what we call an Aro Tool.  You might have to buy better tips and housing form Paloe tools or someone, but this is a good inexpensive start.  The point that barley sticks out of the end will not last long on limestone.  You will also find out if your limestone fossils actually separate from the rock nicely with one of these.  But that is a whole different discussion.

 

 

[DeepTimeIsotopes]

10 minutes ago, Metopolychas said:

Shale I know is defined as soft rock, but what does limestone sort under? I have a hard time doing any prepping with hand tools, and most of the best fossils are found in the lime.

 

So my question is, should I go for the kinder but also weaker type of scribe or do I need the stronger one for the limestone fossils? 

Limestone varies wildly from place to place. I’ve met limestone that’s as hard as some granites due to the amount of silica that’s been leached in and limestones that can be removed with a toothbrush. Most of the time it’s usually harder than shale around 4-5 on the Mohs scale. Also take a look at these threads

And of course this pinned post 

 

[Metopolychas]

Thanks! I wasn't aware limestone varied quite that much. I have no idea where my local stone lands on the scale, but it's hard enough that I've realized I need a scribe. I'll read some more and re-read some others! 

[Kane]

I second jpc's advice.

An ARO or equivalent clone with a decent tip can be considered a "middle-of-the-pack," almost Goldilocks scribe for many rock types. It's a good starter scribe, and as your experience with prep increases and you more often bump up against the limitations, and demand more power or precision, then buying other scribes becomes more desirable. Of course, it is not always the case that using just one scribe type will achieve the results you are looking for, which is why having a range of them optimizes your opportunities (but it's an expensive proposition!). 

 

If you have a lot of matrix to chew through, having a more powerful scribe (like a CP or ME9100) will be helpful as using an ARO for that will take a long time and pretty much kill it! That being said, once bulk matrix is removed and you get much closer to the fossil, using the power scribes risks destroying the fossil, so swapping out power for precision becomes necessary. Even closer to the fossil would then mean abrasion -- although if the Baltoscandian material you are working with is similar to that found in the St Petersburg area, abrasion would not be recommended for trilobites. 

[Metopolychas]

Agreed, Kane. If I try air abrasion on the trilobites I've found so far there would be nothing left . I can scratch and leave deep marks with only my nail! I think I'll look into the ARO or a duplicate since it's in the middle. Or a used one if that's possible. And read more! I don't have the economy to put in a lot of money but I don't want something that'll burn out after one fossil either, then I'd rather save up my finds until I can afford at least reasonable quality. 

[Ptychodus04]

I’ve been using a Chinese Aro clone with the Paleo Tools stylus for about 15 years. They are almost indestructible. The air valve tends to get stuck these days but regular maintenance (aka cleaning) helps keep issues to a minimum. The worst part of getting a pneumatic scribe is the compressor required to effectively drive it. You need a large storage tank and around 4 cfm air flow. That can be as expensive as a high quality scribe.

 

Be careful getting into pneumatic tools. You will quickly find that you can’t just have one. I use 4 different scribes and am contemplating a 5th! I have more money invested in my pneumatic get up than my first 2 vehicles combined.  

[jpc]

I also have the same tool Ptych mentions.  And a big air compressor.  Air compressors do not do well in apartments.  This is also something you need to consider if you in an apt, or have close neighbors.  They are noisy.  Air compressors, maybe not your neighbors.  

 

I also started with just one air tool.  I am up to about 8 and still contemplating another.  But then, we both do this sort of work professionally.  

[Metopolychas]

Compressors are no problem. I live on a farm and we got access to several compressors, from tiny ones I can lift to one who's holding tank is taller than me. Most likely I'd use the one in the workshop, I think that's a 500 liter or so. 

 

It is PaleoTools that supplies a clone ARO? I know it's 'risky' to start down that path but if I want to expose my finds I don't think I have a choice? Unless you think hand tools would still work? In my opinion the matrix is very hard, buuuut I'm not exactly using sharp tools yet either. 

[Ptychodus04]

Pneumatic tools are great and well worth the investment. Many people don’t realize the costs that add up so we tend to want to bring them up.

 

Paleo Tools makes a redesigned Aro called the Paleo Aro. Paleo Tools stuff is on the lower cost side of really good, professional grade prep tools. There are some German manufacturers that are higher precision tools but are more expensive.

 

A search on Amazon for “air scribe” turns up several options, one is an Aro clone for $104 USD.

 

When you start down the prepping road, don’t forget your safety equipment (PPE). You need hearing protection, a good respirator, and eye protection. You’ll need some kind of magnification like a lens/lamp combo and/or a microscope. 5x is the minimum and 20x is pretty much the maximum useful magnification. You will also want to keep in mind that fine dust is going to get on everything in your prep area, so prep somewhere that isn’t a problem.

 

Being in Norway, you have the opposite problem that I have. I deal with unbearable heat. You’re going to struggle with the cold more. Most prep tools don’t like the cold so you’ll need to prep only in summer or indoors with good heating. You will want a good water trap on your compressed air line so condensation doesn’t get in your tools.
 

It’s always exciting being around at the birth of a new preparator.

[Metopolychas]

Thanks to everyone for great advices! If I set up a heater in the work shop I should be able to prep at least part of winter, but it does get really cold in January-February, like -20 to - 30°C at the worst. 

 

Would a regular dust mask be enough? +glasses/screen of course. I do have a military grade gas mask too buuuut I'm not allowed to unseal the filter, lol. I'll def check the Amazon ARO, sounds like nicely in my price range! 

[Ptychodus04]

A regular dust mask is good if you don’t do a lot of prepping. As your exposure goes up, your protection has to as well. I prep on a daily basis for hours at a time so I wear a respirator that filters 99.97% of all particles as small as .3 microns.

 

Look for disposable masks that are rated NIOS P100 or N95.