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  1. A few months ago I decided I would make an air scribe setup I could put in my office. It took about a month of research and planning to settle on everything. It works great, is totally safe, and my wife hasn't gone mad yet! I thought this would be something the forum would enjoy seeing, as I couldn't find any good information on this topic to help me build mine at the time so I might as well share what I learned along the way! The basic considerations were as follows: Be safe Be professional Be quiet Be reasonably priced Let's break down the requirements and see how they influenced the project. Be Safe The number one concern was airborne dust particles, and their potential to cause major damage to my lungs, and also the lungs of my dogs and wife over time if it got circulated throughout the house through the AC. To combat this I needed to make a box that could contain the dust/rock chips and some form of dust extraction. Not only that, I also needed to ensure the dust extraction was rated for such abrasive dust, and that it would have a HEPA filter to catch the dust and not recirculate it out into the room. Let's start with dust extraction. I had suggestions to just use a shop-vac, however this is not a good idea. Firstly, it's not safe as the filter cannot catch the fine damage-causing silica dust but also it couldn't be run for hours in a row without burning up. I found through my research that this is not an easy product to source, especially not in the US. After a lot of time spent looking and some helpful advice I found Vaniman, and specifically the StoneVac II to be the right product for my needs. It has a bypass motor so the motor doesn't get damaged by the dust which gives it a much longer lifespan. I did not get the brushless version, one reason being this price, but it's also was just unnecessary. For a smaller prep box the Abrasive Vac would work just as well, jsut make sure you request the HEPA filter. Speaking of the box! For the box I designed it based on The Wobbly Fossiler's design. It was made out of one sheet of 1/4" plywood and 1x1's as stringers. The base is 2'x3' as I wanted plenty of room to work on larger pieces. I screwed the wood together and caulked all the joints, then painted over that. The entrance for the hands is garage door brush seal on the top and bottom. This allows ease of access for the hands, mobility/flexibility, keeps chunks from flying back out and, very importantly, is not airtight. One thing I didn't consider initially is that the box cannot be totally airtight or the vacuum won't be able to pull the dust out due to no airflow. I attempted to make everything airtight except this entrance so that the air is predictably entering the box from the front and being drawn straight out the back. For the window I cut a piece of plexiglass and put clear silicone inbetween it and the lid, then bolted it together. This makes it an airtight seal, yet makes it easy to replace in the case of damage to the plexiglass. I ran weather strip seal around the edges of the lid, used latches to secure the lid shut, ran strip LEDs around the inside and cut a hole in the back for the vacuum hose to enter. I used a gromet to ensure an airtight seal around the vacuum hose, which surprisingly was the hardest part of the whole build to source. I could certainly make a better box if I did it again, but I am very satisfied with the result. Professional Capabilities This consideration steered the vision of the project and its scope. I purchased 2 PaleoZOIC scribes (the Velociraptor II and the Balaur) as my scribes to use in this box. There would be no reason to invest in such nice prep tools if the environment they were being used in was poorly constructed, cheap and unable to get the most out of this investment. I also wanted to make sure I had plenty of room to work on some large chunks of Limestone I had collected in the past, and to do that I needed a much larger and more versatile box than any prebuilt ones I came across. I also like the ability to move my arms in and out and side to side to get to whatever position is comfortable as I have some sensitive wrists. Prebuilt boxes and they were either absurdly expensive, or unreliable. Don't Drive my Wife Insane (Be Quiet) As mentioned, this setup was going to go into my inside office. For this consideration, that meant I had to be considerate of others who the noise might impact, namely my wife. Another great advantage of the StoneVac II that I didn't previously mention is how quiet it is. It is quiet enough to have a, maybe slightly elevated, conversation over. However, it is leagues quieter than a ShopVac. This means with the door shut to my office it is not an issue for others in the house. The same can be said for the air compressor. I got an 8 Gallon air compressor from California Air Tools and am very pleased with both its quiet noise level and ability to easily keep up with my tools. It is also oil free and brushless, allowing for virtually no maintenance and a longer life span. I am very satisfied with these two pieces of equipment. Price For this final category, I had to make sure to balance budget, efficiency and safety. Because I saved money on the box I was able to get two very nice air scribes. The air compressor was also quiet inexpensive all things considered. The biggest single expense was undoubtedly the dust extractor, however that is also the piece you cannot skimp out on since it is the most important piece to the puzzle of safety and health. I debated whether it was worth spending so much for this, but in the end I knew my health was more important. The biggest place you could save money over my setup is undoubtedly in the scribes. I needed some high quality scribes for some very delicate prep work I needed to do, so depending on what you're doing you could certainly save a lot there. Conclusions I am very satisfied with my setup as it strikes a great harmony between functionality and price. I would recommend a similar setup to anyone who like myself wants to prep inside for whatever reasons, needs a setup that isn't too expensive, and wants the ability to do professional-grade prep. I am happy to answer any questions! I hope this wasn't too long-winded, I wanted to ensure everything was covered to hopefully inspire/inform others who might have similar limitations and restrictions. Happy prepping!
  2. Finished my first crab prep last week! To any other crab preparators, I was wondering what you use to cover up dings in the carapace? Is there some sort of paint or putty I could use?
  3. What air scribe is the best for a beginner? Preferably one that isn’t too expensive. Please help I have no idea what i’m doing...
  4. I am looking at upgrading from a Dremel 290 engraver with ZOIC Paleo's tips, but I am not sure about the differences in the various air scribes available. I'd like to hear anyone's nuanced opinions on why they like/dislike particular scribes, and how they each compare to one another. Things like ergonomics for your hand size & any influencing health conditions you would be willing to share, maintenance demands and difficulty, how easy it is to swap tungsten carbide scribe tips, tips like "jiggle it like this to quick fix the issue", etc. This forum is full of so many helpful and experienced people , but some of the best information is scattered across the forum in unlikely places. For example: Dremel 290: Relatively loud so you should use ear protection. It has strong vibrations so you should use anti-vibration gloves or anti-vibe measures as well as frequent breaks to prevent nerve damage. I have somewhat large hands and the Dremel 290 is still slightly unwieldy for me due to the shape, weight, and size, which also creates the need for frequent breaks. I have damage to my wrist bones, but this tool doesn't irritate the damage as long as I take a 5 minute break ever 10 minutes of run time, and use anti-vibration gloves. You should take breaks like this even if you don't have wrist issues. The default tip is faster than hand tools, but not the greatest -- ZOIC Paleo's 3rd party tips are a significant upgrade as they are a better quality tungsten carbide, better shape choices, and are narrower along the shaft to reach in tiny gaps. I have not tried other 3rd party tips, but I have seen numerous posts on the forums stating some of them are quite good as well, though I don't know how they compare to ZOIC Paleo's. The Dremel 290 has an okay range of motion you can control, from barely visible linear motion to ~1.7 mm of linear motion. There is no airflow from the tip like an air scribe, so you must find other methods of removing chips & dust (you shouldn't be blowing on it because you need to be wearing a mask!) After you use the Dremel 290 for a while, the depth control dial may come loose as it did for me. I am stuck with the longest range of motion, but I don't entirely mind. The accuracy and precision of the strokes in this tool are lacking for detail work. I've measured ~2 mm in lateral "slop," meaning the tip of the scribe has ~2mm movement from the furthest left to the furthest right (same for top and bottom), but this ~2 mm "slop" is only present in certain conditions like sweeping motions or if you get caught on a piece and keep moving the tip may stay caught on the point for up to ~2 mm before it is pulled away. In practice, the lateral "slop" is more like ~1 mm (you may end up striking anywhere up to 0.5 mm from your intended point on contact). No matter which tips you use, they'll need sharpening -- diamond sharpening plates/stones should work. A low-cost diamond knife sharpening stone (~$15 USD, as of late 2023) from any hardware store should be okay. For the price of the Dremel 290, it is a great entry level tool, especially in comparison to the extensive amount of equipment needed to run an air scribe, which can easily cost over $1,000 USD, as of late 2023. The purchase of 3rd party tips is a must for anyone using this tool for more than a few days in their lifetime, but the tips are almost as expensive or moreso than the Dremel 290 itself (as of late 2023).
  5. During the past few years, I have tried several methods of fossil preparation, including manual prepping with needles and pin vises as well as some chemical techniques. Earlier this year, I decided to try pneumatic scribes and I purchased two of the Hardy Winkler models. Before deciding on these two scribes, I was informed by the helpful comments of others on the Forum. I am now submitting my comments in the hope of adding to those reviews. Since scribes must be selected with specific purposes in mind, I will state that I am a hobbyist (not a professional) and collect relatively small fossils (ranging from couple of millimeters to a few centimeters in their longest dimensions). Also, most of the fossils I find are partially embedded in limestones, mudstones, shales, and phosphate nodules. I do nearly all of my preparation under a stereo microscope. Since my fossils are mostly small, I wanted scribes with a range of uses from very fine micro work up to moderate matrix removal. I also wanted scribes that impart minimal vibration to protect delicate fossils (as well as my own nerves and blood vessels). Finally, I wanted scribes that operate at relatively low air pressures and air volumes so I would not have to replace my 30-year-old compressor. Based on reviews in the Forum (and other sources), I decided to try the highly-adjustable HW-322 and HW-70. Skipping to the punch line, I am very happy with both scribes. They complement each other well enough to cover the entire range of my needs. For those who may be considering these scribes, the following comments will provide some pros and cons of the two models. HW-322. This scribe operates with a pointed chisel that floats in a removable head. The chisel is driven by a piston. The movement of the piston is affected by air pressure from an external regulator, a tuning adjustment in the body of the device, the actions of o-rings, and a spring. Here is an overview of how the tool’s action can be adjusted to fit the work: 1. The HW-322 typically comes with two different springs: A soft spring and a hard spring. Use the soft spring for intricate cleaning of delicate fossils. Switch to the hard spring for chiseling away somewhat larger amounts of matrix. 2. Two types of pointed 1.3 mm needles are available: Use the fine-tip needle for delicate work. Use the standard needle for less-fine uses. 3. You can vary the air pressure with the supplied regulator: For fine work with the soft spring, you can set the pressure anywhere in the range of about 0.5-1.4 bar (7-20 psi). For less-fine work with the hard spring, you can operate in the range of 0.9-1.8 bar (13-26 psi). At 1.0 bar of pressure, air consumption with the soft spring is about 17 liters per minute (0.6 cfm). With the hard spring at 1.4 bar of pressure, air consumption is about 20 liters per minute (0.7 cfm). 4. The twist-to-tune feature in the body adjusts the depth of stroke through a range of movement from a nearly imperceptible vibration of the needle to full engagement of the needle with the piston. With all of these adjustments, the tool can be configured for a range of work so broad that it’s almost like two or more scribes in one. With the soft spring and fine needle, this tool handles all of my needs for ultra-fine work. With the hard spring and standard needle, I can use the tool will remove matrix to a depth of a few millimeters over areas of a few square centimeters. Negatives/cons. As with all tools, there are some limitations. My main complaint relates to the difficulty of finding consistent technical information and instructions for the user. Some retailers offer their own pdf summary sheets and videos with use and care tips; however, there are occasional discrepancies in the advice, and I have yet to find a definitive user’s manual from the actual manufacturer. As another negative, the scribe is designed to be used only in a forward bulldozing motion. Sweeping the scribe from side to side is discouraged because side movement may cause abnormal wear to the nylon head bushing. This means you may not be able to use the scribe to sweep away tool tool marks (I am currently removing my scribe marks manually, with a hobby-type razor tool). Finally, due to limited manufacturing, retailers are often out of stock, and waiting lists are sometimes long. Most retailers sell the HW-322 in a package with one tip, both springs, a 0-4 bar air regulator with fittings, and an air hose. Mine came with European fittings, so I had to order a global-style high-flow quick connect socket (which I could not get at the local hardware stores). HW-70. The HW-70 can be adjusted for a range of uses from borderline-fine work to moderate matrix removal. Adjustments in the action of the tool are affected by the many needle sizes/styles and by varying the air pressure from the regulator, as follows: 1. Three sizes of pointed heads/needles are available (1.3 mm, 2.0 mm, and 3.0 mm). In addition, some needles are also available with chisel or hybrid tips. With the 1.3 mm pointed tip, it is possible to work relatively close to many fossils. With the larger needles in different styles, you can remove rather significant amounts of matrix in short order. 2. The overall aggressiveness of the tool is controlled by adjusting the operating pressure at the regulator. The HW-70 works well at a range of pressures from about 0.3-2.0 bar (4-29 psi). Air consumption at 2 bar is about 20 liters per minute (0.7 cfm). At low pressures with the thinnest needle, the HW-70 seems to pick up where the HW-322 leaves off. Although I always do my finish work with the HW-322, I’m happy I have the HW-70 for quicker matrix removal in the harder and larger rocks. Negatives/cons. On the negative side, the same cons apply as already mentioned for the HW-322: A disappointing lack of documentation from the manufacturer, the inability to use the scribe in a side-to-side sweeping motion, and limited availability. Concluding comments. If you are looking for high-quality scribes with minimal air supply requirements, one or both of these models may be worth considering. Before buying any scribe, I recommend you search for other reviews on this Forum. When searching for reviews, keep in mind that some members include the dash in the model numbers and others do not. Therefore, you may find more reviews if you try separate searches for HW-322 and HW322. Also try separate searches for HW-70 and HW70. If you are new to preparation work, you’ll also want to study the many informative forum posts regarding fossil repair, consolidation, and general prepping techniques. It may be worth noting that I decided to try pneumatic scribes because I tend to damage fossils when I push too hard with manual pin vises and needles. I do not have this problem with pneumatic scribes because the scribes do all the work and remove matrix with very little pushing. In fact, the HW-322 will often remove the last remaining bits of matrix from delicate fossils when the tool is held perfectly still with the needle just barely touching the matrix. There are some items you’ll need that are not provided by the manufacturer, including an air compressor, an air filter, a hose from the compressor to the filter, and all of the fittings between the compressor and the quick-connect fitting that is provided with the regulator. If you are working on small fossils, you will also benefit greatly from a stereo microscope. All of this can be expensive (not bass-boat expensive, but it may still require some time to save up). As with any scribe, the standard warnings apply: wear eye protection (unless your eyes are pressed against a pair of microscope lenses), wear respiratory protection such as a NIOSH-approved N-95 or P-100 respirator as protection against crystalline silica ( https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/silica/ ), and if you use a scribe frequently or in cold environments be sure to learn about hand-arm vibration syndrome ( https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/ergonomics/default.html#vib ). Best wishes.
  6. I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot my CP 9361 air scribe. I'm copying my same post from Facebook in hopes to get more visibility. The main issue is that once the stylus touches rock, the stylus jams, or simply stops working. When changing the dial for air from 0 to 5, settings 0-3 blow out little to no air. Setting 4 blows out much air. Setting 5 blows out little to no air. If I turn the dial slowly, sometimes the stylus will engage Sometimes I have to bang the casing on something (either the palm of my hand or the leg of a table) to get it to start again I've cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and lubricated with 3-in-1 machine oil If I have just 1 O-ring on the stylus it will work for a few moments. If I have 2 O-rings on it, the stylus will never vibrate / engage. Do I need to just buy a new air scribe? Video 1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/XsgPtxhdi16ps2fT8 Video 2 (forgot to mention the piston area) https://photos.app.goo.gl/bQ37FcioyyiZRtuZ7
  7. I was wondering if anyone knows whether the KN-95 mask is sufficient enough for air scribing outdoors? And if it isn’t could someone recommend something that would work? I’m mostly asking this because there’s a wider variety of face mask types post-COVID compared to pre-COVID. I’d also prefer the mask to be reasonably priced and easily available.
  8. I was wondering if a blast cabinet is required to air scribe fossils outdoors? (As long as one wears the proper PPE and safety equipment of course.) I’m trying to save some on my setup until I gather the rest of the cash needed to buy the blast cabinet and move my prepping indoors. And besides, the cold has never really bothered me anyways.
  9. Hi everybody. Maybe someone have used th Zoic Palaeotech Velociraptor 2? I am looking for an air scribe for a little bit matrix removal and fine work on different rock types and often with fragile fossils. I found two scribes that are potentially good at that: the Zoic one and the HW10. The Zoic seems to me better in terms of power and versatility and has a very low air consumption, but is two times more expensive than HW10. Zoic can also make a diffuse exhaust, but is it worth? So what is the best scribe for my pruposes? Or maybe there are other scribes that I missed? LSG Lab
  10. I am new to fossil prep, so I figured that air scribe tips would be highly cross compatible. I recently bought two air scribes: one Chicago scribe and one Fossil Shack air scribe. Additionally, because I read it was good, I bought a Paleo Aro 2.5" stylus. It is very sharp, which is excellent, but when I tried to put in in either of my air scribes, it was too wide to fit through the head hole. Would I need to get a whole different air scribe to use the tip, or would I be able to attach a head from Paleotools to the Fossil Shack scribe I already have?
  11. Today's Fossil Friday contribution is about the chicago pneumatic air scribes. Periodic maintenance is highly important, but many new owner dont know how or are intimidated to open them up.
  12. Hey everyone! So I recently purchased The Zoic Chicago, it is a very nice tool but I would like to get something for details. I would love to hear your recommendations!
  13. Haravex

    Barasaurus prep thread

    So, I thought I would share this topic with you all. This is going to be the beginning of a long thread with any luck. This is the first one I have prepared, coming close to the end. It's turned out ok. I feel it could be better, While looking at multiple examples, and studying the bone through journals, previously prepped specimens, and other resources is great. It's a completely different game, learning to prepare first hand, and the differences in each nodule affecting position and rotation of the bones. So a friend of mine contacted me saying he had some unprepared nodules, and me loving a prep challenge, accepted. . Arriving shortly after my trip to the IOW, (which went well and I will do a report on shortly) this nodule was delivered by the good local postal woman It had already been split to check the contents, and was more of an example piece than a more pristine uncracked nodule And this is the current prep stage I am at. Just exposing more of the vertebrae column and ribs and the fine details, and smoothing out the scribe marks. This work can take some time, as it needs b72 after each new section is exposed, due to how small and fragile the bones are, but when you compare this to how they are normally seen( just split in half with a complete loss of detail) I think the time is well worth the effort, and once this is finished I can't wait to get started on the next one. I hope you all enjoy reading this short prep story and will try and post more of my prep work in the future. (Been slacking on the show and tell part in recent months.)
  14. fossilhunter21

    8315-C Air Scribe Question

    Hi everyone! So I really like the PaleoAro from paleotools.com but I would rather not spend $470. So I am just wondering if the 8315-C from qtena.com would work with the PaleoAro bushing and PaleoAro stylus from paleotools.com? Thank you in advance! -@fossilhunter21
  15. TyrannosaurusRex

    Air Scribe Issues

    Hey all! I’ve been at a loss for what to do with the scribe I purchased due to the fact it simply doesn’t work, and I’m wondering if anyone might have some advice about what I might could try. Perhaps I’m simply missing something I’m not aware of. Back in August, I purchased a Fossil Shack air scribe. Unfortunately, it didn’t work when I received it, and it was sent back. I did receive a replacement several weeks ago, and I got a chance to try and see if it worked over Thanksgiving break from school, but again, no luck. I had been told the one I’d received first was defective, and maybe this second one is as well, but I’m hoping that’s not the case. I’m using an in line air filter set to 50-60 PSI from a 20 Gallon air compressor. Haven’t gotten any sort of air coming from the scribe or anything, it seems to be ‘dead in the water’ as the saying goes. If anyone has advice for what I could try, I’d greatly appreciate it! Thank you.
  16. Volksburgs

    Fossil Shack Scribe

    Hello, I bought a Fossil Shack air scribe but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the needle aka tip out. Can anyone help me? Thanks!
  17. Hello Fossil Forum, Thank you all for the fantastic information I've already been able to find on prep tools and overall prep lab requirements. I'm in the investigation phase right now and am poised to purchase my first air scribes as an upgrade to the electric engraver I've been using so far. My question is this; for any of the Canadian experts out there, do you have any suggestions on where to look for tools and supplies that can be delivered easily within Canada? There are a lot of great retailers out there, but they all seem to be located in the USA or UK, are there any Canadian options/resources I might be missing out on? Cheers, Ryan
  18. PrehistoricWonders

    Air Scribes

    Hi all, I was wondering if anyone could give me advice on 1. air scribes you’ve found are good for fossil prep, and 2. All the parts needed for Scribes. I’m not quite sure all the parts needed for a scribe, I know you need the scribe itself and an air compressor, but I don’t know beyond that. P.s; the fossils I’ll be working on will be Green River fish, for the most part.
  19. Preferably to the friends from UK: What is the best preparation method for a Pterichthyodes milleri from the Devonian of Achanarras? Carbide tipped graver, air scribe or abrasive blaster? And if you can use an abrasive blaster, which abrasive is best? The fish is still almost completely covered and lies in a devilishly hard and thick slab. I want to prep the fish from the other side. What you see here should be the ventral side. What do you think? @Terry Dactyll, @Kosmoceras, @James_R_V
  20. zeromangoCO

    Air scribe/air compressor?

    Hi everyone, I just had a question to ask about air scribes/compressors. I've been doing manual prep on green river specimens, and I'm happy with the results I'm getting, but I've been thinking it might be time to move up to an air scribe. I really enjoy the prepping process, I just want to be able to work faster. The one I've seen from Fossil Shack seems pretty good, and I've heard it was designed for green river fish, so it seems like a good tool for my purposes. It's also a fair bit cheaper than the other scribes I've seen. So my question is: does anyone have experience with this scribe? Would you recommend it? And if so, what size air compressor would you get to go with it? I'm okay with it cycling, I'd just like to get a decent bit of work done between air compressor cycles. Any answers you've got would be truly appreciated. Thanks and have a good day Edit: Also if this is the wrong place to post this or if there's a better place to ask, lemme know. I'm new to the forum so I don't know all the formatting guides.
  21. Looking for some tips. I've been given an older CP 9361 but want to get a new stylus. Looking at getting it from Paleotools. What my question to you prep pros is what stylus would you recommend? I'm thinking the 1.5' or 2' pointed stylus? Will be mostly doing trilobites and plants in shale and mudstone. @Kane @piranha
  22. Hi All I'm looking to get a rough work air scribe and have 3 options so far (let me know if you have any other to look at please!): PaleoTools Junior Jack ZOIC Paleotech T Rex Ken Mannion SQ This is to work on some large New Zealand concretions. Has anyone got any experience using any of these or ideally, have used multiple of them? Thanks so much! @RJB I think you have a Junior Jack, any experience with any of the others?
  23. Hello friends! I am experimenting this period with my new Haufwerk W224 air scribe. It is recommended as ideal for beginners and rated for medium to fine preparation. My first lab rat turned out above my expectation. First attempt was done without press. regulator and without filter, since I did not know I needed these. Lab rate Prior preparation and After. Soft limestone for your reference. After having finished the above and onwards I work with pressure regulator (never above 5bar~70psi) and water separating filter to ensure I am using dry air. The next one turned out really bad. One side was already exposed 100% due to weather erosion. The other side was fully covered except the edge. The beginning seemed promising. The first material was removed around 2 o'clock and started chipping away easily. After that I lost my path completely. I couldn't define what is material to remove and what is ammonite. The stone is quite hard limestone from the Jurassic of Bulgaria, Ammonitico Rosso. I believe that with air abrasion with hard material the result would be totally different, but I do not have yet this set up.
  24. Well gang, a month or so and 1500$ USD later, I have upgraded/replaced, and modernized my prep lab. (pictures to follow once the new flooring and dust collector is delivered and installed) Between all the prep I need to do for my hobbies, my job, my degree, and many many vintage VW parts, plus an overall need for new toys when the budget allows... Well, that and my dissertation is coming up next year and I have to get my display ready for that... I managed to finagle some really good deals on scratch and dent, factory returns, and industrial auctions so I got about 5+ grand worth of equipment really, really cheap. (All those years slaving away in factories fixing other people's junk finally paid off!) Anyway, I purchased a slightly used bench top Cyclone Manufacturing media blast cabinet (retail around 300, got it for 50 as the hinges and lid seal were shot and the air inlet valve needed replaced so put 25$ into it). Looking for suggestions for appropriate media to use in with fossil/artifact prep. I'm used to only working with metals for welding repairs and such, not sure if there is a specific media type for rock and stone. Winter is coming and I have years worth of specimens to play with while the weather is awful! If you have a preferred media, nozzle, outlet size, please let me know, I'd like to try it out! To go with it, I installed an Ingersol-Rand 80 gallon 240 volt compressor with a "blown" motor (200$ at auction, 15$ for replacement brushes and a new rotor bearing and a 2$ replacement relay- retails new for around 2 grand) in my garage and then plumbed a feed line and manifold up to my work room. Now I can run my all of my Volkswagen tools in the garage and art and fossil prep stuff upstairs without having to wait for the tank to recharge every 15 minutes. At the same auction, I got them to throw in an Extract-All variable speed collector for free, which I modified to work as both a bench top collector and some rather clever if I do say so myself adapter system for my various woodworking and fossil prep tools. They retail for around 2 grand. Found that the set screws on the squirrel cage were stripped, so retapped them and and did some fill and polish on the shaft to get it working. Set up an old shop-vac as an intermediate for the bigger chunks and flakes. I already owned a number of different air tools, but added a used Fossil Shack air scribe from a certain auction site to my so-old-I-cant-get parts and so-battered-they-do-more-harm-than-good Chicagos. I haven't tried it out yet, but the claim of no more cold fingers lured me in. I suspect I may finally get my Cowboy Pass finds suitable for display... I was also able to get a used dental drill rig with all the goodies from a scientific/medical auction, so I am going to be teaching my self the techniques for really fine control of that toy. That was the most expensive part of all the deals and a knee-jerk purchase at 450$, but I figure it will come in handy for some of the stuff I have to prep in the harder matrixes. I am also converting the water cooling jets over to compressed air cooling venturis as I'm pretty sure the "patients" aren't feeling anything... I was also able to get a new motor for my vacuum pump, and a modern table vibrator for under 200$ as I have dozens of display/teaching casts to make for the Uni (I am also a sculptor/model builder and can finally do limited edition repops of the stuff that sells real well...Warhammer 40k Chaos tanks and weird biologically textured display stuff the art folks are willing to pay far too much for).
  25. My daughter and I do most of our collecting around the Whitby area where we mostly collect ammonite nodules with high iron content, making them very hard. I have tried prepping them with a Dremel rotary tool and while it often works quite well around the outer whorls it barely scratches the centre. I’d like to step up to using an air pen or similar but it looks a heck of a jump in terms of cost. Initial research looks like it’s going to cost £400-500. Is this a realistic estimate for entry level, but decent equipment? I wouldn’t want to throw a couple of hundred at poor quality gear that isn’t up to the task. (I’ve seen cheaper alternatives on a popular auction site that are shipped from China that I’m keen to avoid) Any advice is greatly appreciated
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