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Found 7 results

  1. Hello again! I have done my first experiment with Butvar 76 after drying my Green River fish fossils for 15 days. For this first experiment I selected a thin partially complete Diplomystus from the lower quality end of my haul last month. I gently blew compressed air over the fossil which had been picked lightly with a dental tool, then applied my mix of Butvar-76 and acetone. I found different recommendations for the ratio, and probably used to much powder in my solution because as you can see, upon returning from work I found that small bubbles were trapped inside. I assume the surface tension was too high to allow them to escape as a result of using too thick Butvar. For my next experiment I will thin it out, and brush on thin coats and apply them one at a time instead of thickly applying it. I also noticed that some of the stone dust washed into the solution above the fossils midsection in the depressions between the thin bones. Feel free to critique my first attempt and give any advice.
  2. Ptychodus04

    Iron Powder Abrasive

    I have started prepping Green River fish for one of the quarries in Kemmerer and one of their requirements was that I switch to using iron powder for my abrasive. It's expensive but I wish I had done this years ago! It took a fair bit of cleaning to get the baking soda out of my dust collection system (you don't really want them mixing together). Iron powder is slightly harder than soda but is more rounded. It removes the matrix really quickly with less damage to the specimen. I can operate at significantly lower pressures as well. The softer bits of matrix come off easily at 8 psi. Another aspect of the iron powder is that it is easily recoverable with a magnet in a bag. about 50% drops in the box. I pick it up with the magnet, sift it through a 100 micron sieve and dump it back into the abrasive hopper. My dust collector dumps into a bucket to collect the heavy/large particles on the way to the fines bag. This grabs about 90% of the abrasive that gets picked up by the suction. I have another magnet in the bucket that gathers most of the iron and every 4 or 5 hours of work time, I open the bucket and recover the abrasive. This gets sifted and goes back into service.
  3. PaleoPat

    Fish Identification

    Hi everyone, I got this fish at a mineral shop and he had no identification for it. My son thought it might be a knightia or a mioplosus. It also looks to me like it got fossilized when going to the bathroom. Can anyone help me ID it? Am I right about the poop? I'd really appreciate it. Pat
  4. Hello, I'm about to start my first experiment in preparing an Eocene fish from the Green River 18 inch layer. I've done some prep of fish from the "split fish" layer with some success. But the matrix here appears much different! I'll be doing with with a pin vice, scribe and a head band magnifier with good lighting. I could use any advice from y'all with MUCH more experience than me! Thanks
  5. aeon.rocks

    FIRST DIPLOMYSTUS PREP

    Hi all, it's my first green river fossil fish prep, i think head preped out ok, but before I start with the rest, since there are some very experience Green river preparators here, I would appreciate any tips how to preserve soft tissue parts (between ribs i.e.)!? Thank you in advance! Hope to save as much soft tissue as possible, like in example below (not sure if any colour enhancements though?). Downloaded this pic from fossilrealm web:
  6. Kurufossils

    Green River Fish Amia Head???

    Hello everyone, I'm looking for a second opinion on this piece, a fish head from the green river fauna, while I believe it maybe Amia due to comparisons I'm not to confident, any help/guidance is and will be appreciated.
  7. Hey all, I have a Green River fish I purchased many years ago. The bones mostly seem well preserved, but the fins at least (and likely all of it) was painted a dark brown and then some sort of a sealant was applied. The matrix is different from the usual split fish material, it is more like a hard sandstone (much more sturdy than the split fish layer) and it is a brownish color. Likely the fish was painted to "improve" contrast with the dark matrix. I would like to remove the paint and restore the fish to its natural condition. I have soaked it in acetone for hours (in a fume hood of course) and that removed the sealant but the paint is almost untouched. Does anyone know what kind of paint commercial dealers use (or used to use 30 years ago) and how to remove it? Don
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