Labeling your fossils

[njfossilhunter]

I have been doing some research into labeling and cataloging fossils and was wondering if anyone has tried using a oil base pen marker...I have a white sharpie Paint/peinture for labeling small dark fossils and I would like some opinions before I use it....I have been on the AMNH site and they didn't mention its usage but I did read something about it on another site.

P.S. Should I use something to coat it have its use,

Thank You

Edited October 13, 2015 by njfossilhunter

[ZiggieCie]

Hi NJ, IMHO I would think that if you first put a thin stripe of B-72 and than write your numbers etc on that, it would protect your fossil from any seapage from the oil in the paint, if any. Just to be safe.

[erose]

Ziggie makes a good point. The problem can be the ink soaking in and spreading into the fossil or matrix so painting a small strip or patch on which to write is always good practice.

Above is an example of black sharpie on white out. Almost total failure…additional paper labels saved the day.

[njfossilhunter]

Hi NJ, IMHO I would think that if you first put a thin stripe of B-72 and than write your numbers etc on that, it would protect your fossil from any seapage from the oil in the paint, if any. Just to be safe.

Thanks Ziggie...I read a little about it the other day.

[njfossilhunter]

DSCN5308.JPG

Ziggie makes a good point. The problem can be the ink soaking in and spreading into the fossil or matrix so painting a small strip or patch on which to write is always good practice.

Above is an example of black sharpie on white out. Almost total failure…additional paper labels saved the day.

I read that whiteout can get brittle over time and flack off....I read that using B-72 on the fossil and then attaching the paper label to that area and then put another coat of B-72 on top of the label seals it.

[tooth_claw]

Try this link.

http://vertpaleo.org/PDFS/7f/7f3a76e9-e87c-4b0a-a893-8e9b53a6efec.pdf

[Ridgehiker]

An aside, each to their own but...

Marking fossils has a purpose. The purpose can determine how you may want to label them.

I always marked fossils for research being put into curation. In contrast, I never perm-a-mark my own personal fossils.

For my own collection no issues over the decades. Depending on the fossil, I use a sticky backed white 'dot' on the specimen with the collection number in it ( ballpoint pen) Then the specimen is often placed in a zip plastic container with anothersticky label number on it, ...then a label placed with them with, again, the collection number.

I have several thousand specimens and have no issue confusing them, mix ups, etc. People collect all types of objects without the need to write on them. I'm sure fossil collectors have thousands of shark teeth, little shells, tiny bones, etc. without marks.

It's just a personal preference but I don't like anything marking my specimens...especially permanent ink on white paint. Again, it has it's purpose in an institution but not a necessity in a private collection.

Edited October 15, 2015 by Ridgehiker

[jpc]

I disagree respectfully with canadwest. If your fossils are big enough, they should be labeled. And, yes, white out will very quickly (5 years?) crack and fall off. See the link above in tooth%-claw's post.

Edited October 17, 2015 by jpc

[Wrangellian]

I never cared for the white blotch with cat# written on, though it is better than no label at all. What looks nicer to me is the cat# written in white pen (on dark specimens), then a clear protective coating of whatever kind on top of that. I still haven't managed to get anything for that clear coat yet, all my fossils since I discovered the white pen have just the white #, and so far so good. White pen on dark specimens and dark pen on lighter specimens (with clear coat, eventually) is the way to go for me.

Edited October 17, 2015 by Wrangellian

[ZiggieCie]

W, here is a link for B-72, he sells it in half pound batches. For using it over cat numbers I would use the Alcohol mix, as I would think that the acetone mix would wash off the lettering. Acetone does a job on paint and ink.

[Wrangellian]

W, here is a link for B-72, he sells it in half pound batches. For using it over cat numbers I would use the Alcohol mix, as I would think that the acetone mix would wash off the lettering. Acetone does a job on paint and ink.

Maybe alcohol will do the same! I'm not sure what the ink solution in the pen is based in.....

[erose]

I never cared for the white blotch with cat# written on, though it is better than no label at all. What looks nicer to me is the cat# written in white pen (on dark specimens), then a clear protective coating of whatever kind on top of that. I still haven't managed to get anything for that clear coat yet, all my fossils since I discovered the white pen have just the white #, and so far so good. White pen on dark specimens and dark pen on lighter specimens (with clear coat, eventually) is the way to go for me.

That is what i have been doing for a number of years now. There are several companies that sell clear coats for archival labeling. One interesting thing i found with the kit I purchased is that the white and the clear coats have stayed good since I bought them maybe 10 years ago. The lack of acids seems to make them stable?

[Wrangellian]

That is what i have been doing for a number of years now. There are several companies that sell clear coats for archival labeling. One interesting thing i found with the kit I purchased is that the white and the clear coats have stayed good since I bought them maybe 10 years ago. The lack of acids seems to make them stable?

What company/ies or product(s) would you recommend for the clear coat material?

Edited October 18, 2015 by Wrangellian

[ZiggieCie]

Here is an instruction sheet on archival marking techniques used by the American Museum of Natural History. This should answer most questions.

Assembling an Archival Marking Kit for Paleontological Specimens

LINK

I think tooth and claw posted it earlier, but it answere a lot of questions.

[Wrangellian]

I like the idea of the white acrylic with quill pen, I might try it someday if I get fed up with my white pen. Also the B-72/acetone mixture in the nail polish bottle seems about the easiest method, but it's a matter of finding these things. I wonder how long you can leave this solution in the bottle without it degrading..

[jpc]

I like the idea of the white acrylic with quill pen, I might try it someday if I get fed up with my white pen. Also the B-72/acetone mixture in the nail polish bottle seems about the easiest method, but it's a matter of finding these things. I wonder how long you can leave this solution in the bottle without it degrading..

If the bottle doesn't leak so axcetone/alcohol doesn't evaporate, the stuff should be fine. One of the plusses of B-72 and Vinac is that they indeed are stable and don't degrade.

[Wrangellian]

Yes I assume they wouldn't be promoting the stuff if it didn't degrade, but what about the brush in the bottle? is it not made of plastic? I guess there are different types of plastic, some which can stand up to acetone (like the nail polish remover bottle but I can't speak for the nail polish bottle) My worry is I would mostly need a bit of it at a time, and it might sit for long periods in between uses, so I hope the bottle does not degrade in the prolonged presence of acetone and is also airtight.

[erose]

What company/ies or product(s) would you recommend for the clear coat material?

http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com

But there are many others. Just search under archival materials.