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Found 16 results

  1. Does anyone know of any good resources on and/or off the forum to learn proper techniques regarding sudden field excavation? More specifically, in the event of a significant/highly fragile find, how to properly consolidate, collect, and transport it from the field, especially in limited circumstances where proper tools, glue, paper towel/tinfoil may not be available? I’ve got the documentation/field notes bit down, but I wanted guidance on the extraction part. Photos, articles, videos, books, etc. appreciated! (Note: if this is too specific or narrow of a search request, that’s ok, any even mildly relevant material is appreciated regardless)
  2. hadrosauridae

    Trip to the Field Museum

    Just got back from a weekend trip to Chicago to visit the Field museum and a few other places. I'm really kind of at a loss for words on what to say about it. "Wow" is all I can think of right now. I spent 4 hours there and never went anyplace other than the dinosaur hall. Over 200 pictures and video clips to download, I plan to make a short review video but thats going to take a while. It just really is breathtaking. From seeing Maximo the Titanosaur in the main hall, and the ability to walk under it. So many beautiful specimens from the Texas Permian beds I recently had the chance to work in. Displays from the Fossil Lake of Wyoming, including so many holotypes! And of course, seeing SUE the T.rex. I've seen the movie "Dinosaur 13" dozens of times, and met the Larsons who found and excavated her. I've even seen the traveling Sue here in Oklahoma, but its still amazing to stand there and see it in person.
  3. This past weekend I attended the Florida Paleontological Society's spring field trip to a shell pit in Charlotte County, Florida. These trips along with others I take, give me the opportunity to catch up with friends, many who are Fossil Forum members. This got me thinking about a topic for pictures of FF members in the field. From this past week @Shellseeker collecting 1.8 million year old fossil shells from the Caloosahatchee Formation in South Florida.
  4. OverHolluf

    What is this?

    Hi all Im quite new to this. What could these two things be? (if anything) Found in Denmark.
  5. Looking for guidance on what to collect today. 1/2 - Could this be pet wood or is there decent potential for fossils in this piece? I put bit of lichen to mark some areas I found interesting (potential marine fossils?). I could leave in place, peel off another layer, pour done water on it, or move on? 3- About same size as 1st one. Multiple trackways or insect burrows? For now, Collect or leave it? 4- hmmm, burrow or stem looking, but all pointed in same direction. 5/6-Not sure, but does not look weathering. AHH SNIKIES! I think that is poison oak & of course I was using my glove as a make do scale Gotta get to the sink! Thanks!
  6. Hello all, Do you have any tips to minimise back strain while fossil hunting? We go home with stiff backs, weather we walk on the beach or scratch next to the road, and it takes a few days to fully recover. I tried to think of some solutions, like buying kneepads so that I can put more weight on my knees instead of my back while I scrach and hit at rocks.
  7. Phillipfiltz

    Tooth?

    So me and my pops was going over a field again to find more fossils/artifacts and he found what looks like a old tooth. We thought it was a rock but after busting out the magnifying glass seen otherwise. Maybe it’s nothing but thought I’d ask you guys and gals.
  8. This has come up a bit around the forums lately, and with the shopping holidays just around the corner, I figure it is a good time to open up this can of worms! Well that and I am buying up equipment for my new earth sciences students to use, so might as well dig two trilobites with one hammer... But first, a few disclaimers: I will use brand names for some items. This is not an endorsement, but a statement on quality/price/durability, etc. With tools, not all manufacturers are the same. Why buy junk ten times, when you can buy the pro-grade once the first time? Also: Everyone has their personal preferences and different sites require different tools for the job. (Example: I bet I'm the only one that carries a "emergency pack" that can keep me alive for 72 hours in most situations for a fossil hunt and I think the paleo pick makes a better automotive tool.) There is a certain amount of opinion, personal preference, and experience involved in getting the right tools for the job Last: I am not going to talk about backcountry and general outdoors safety in detail (for the most part). I am not going to discuss your local laws and such unless my tool suggestions might get you into trouble. There would be too much to cover. This is mostly about tools. This guide is intended for those new to the hobby, not those of us that sweat trilobites and poo T-rex teeth. Next up is SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY. Thou shalt not be Mike Rowe (Mr. Safety Third) Please refer to this excellent thread on how to use rock tools safely: Fossil Hunting Field Tools for Beginners: The Basics- All you really need is eyes and hands for most fossil hunting trips. A bag, satchel, or pack is handy to put your finds in. A pocket knife and a couple of old screwdrivers are handy too. Dressing for the climate and weather is also very important. Prepare for insects ahead of time. In snake and scorpion country, wear the proper gear. Know the law before you go. Never ever ever go out alone. It is dangerous and boring to do so. Always let other folks, not on the excursion, know where you are going. Write a schedule/itinerary and leave it with someone you trust with your life. Stick to said itinerary without exception. Leave the solo excursions to us anti-social nihilists. Use maps and learn how to use a compass. Smartphone based apps will get you lost and dead. Period. GPS units are OK if they are designed for backcountry use. Automotive "GPS" is no better than smartphone apps...and will get you lost and dead. And don't think you thousand dollar backcountry GPS with Iridium Satellite subscription is going to save you...they are only good till the batteries die... and, in my experience, 99% of users do not know how to use such gadgets properly. Really smart beginners hook up with the local fossil/rockhounding club and limit their first few excursions to those with the club in order to learn from the more experienced. No website or book can do that. In my opinion, channel your internal Indiana Jones, and wear a wide brimmed hat. Look the part and keep the sun from scorching you to death. In addition to the above, the most important bits of gear these days for beginners is a smartphone (or other camera) and a tape measure for those finds you can't take with you. A camera and tape is also handy to collect information about where you found it and in what member of what formation to help with later identification. Bonus points for turning location data on on your smartphone camera so that the location data of your finds is imbedded. Why carry a notebook when you have a computer in your pocket anyway? For folks in the United States: Buy a tape measure that has both imperial and metric units on it. Paleontologists, geologists and all other scientists use metric measures. If you need help identifying something from photos later on, a metric scale is crucial. Also, you won't have to do arithmetic with fractions out in the field or try to remember which mark is 32nds and which mark is 64ths. While I learned how to think in metric decades ago, I use this exact tape measure in the field: Please take notes about your finds. Where are you? What Formation? What Member? What other rocks and fossils where around where you found it? What is the date and time? All of this stuff can help the pros help you later on if need be. Finally, use the right tools for the job. A geology pick is not needed on a sandy beach. A shovel does you no real good in a shale quarry. A big bucket can be more useful than a back pack. Think before you pack, in other words. Enough of that. Now that we have covered the first tool (your brain and how to use it) let us discuss the actual tools! Hammers- There are three basic types you will need, depending on what and where you are fossil hunting. rarely will you need all three at the same time, but it is a good idea to have them in the car, just in case. #1 Geologist's Pick These are the industry standard for a reason. There are two basic styles, the modern and the traditional. Both are available in a variety of weights and sizes. I prefer the modern 22 ounce (about 624g) size for general use. If you carry a lot of gear, or have small hands, you will want the smaller weights. If you are going to be swinging for long periods, the long handle version will benefit you. Keep in mind that there are size limits on the tools you can use. In the US on public lands in particular, you are better off keeping the 22oz and skipping the bigger stuff. Also, do not make the mistake I made in Arizona a decade back and have these tools out and visible in driving compartment of your vehicle. Some law enforcement folks consider this stuff "weapons" and they can make a simple tail-light out become a real fiasco... Keep your tools in the trunk or toolbox, or in a backpack or such to prevent headaches. #2 Mason's Hammer This is basically the same thing as the geologist's pick, save that it has a chisel head rather than a pointy head. These are best for you shale splitters, though like the pick, it is also a handy tool for moving around soft stuff. Again, I call out the Estwing here. My granddaddy, the life-long union bricklayer stated "If it ain't no Estwing, yinze jus' wastin' yinze money." That review was good enough for me. Also, one gets what one pays for. I tried to be cool and buy the cheaper stuff and...well...this brand is worth every penny. I have a box of broken, damaged, and useless albeit cheaper tools to prove it. #3 Breakers, Smashers, and Kabonkers (the scientific terminology) I'm lumping these all together as they all serve the same purpose: Smashing stuff or driving a chisel. Personally, I prefer a ball peen, a deadblow, and/or a sculptor's mallet, but this depends on the rock I plan on breaking. DO NOT USE CLAW HAMMERS OR THE ABOVE SPECIALTY HAMMERS TO DRIVE CHISELS! They are not designed for metal to metal strikes and are a surefire way to get access to the glass eye/can't get through airport security club. Plus, the lack of depth perception makes later fossil trips a bit more difficult. I prefer the mini-sledge for smashing open stuff. I prefer a sculptor's mallet for driving chisels. I prefer a deadblow for all my other kabonking needs. These can be had on the cheap. These images are the exact ones I use, a reverse image search can direct you to a source. Next: Loved by pros, oft ignored by newbies.... The paint brush. Yup. Same one you would use to paint your kitchen or bedroom. Again, there is a range of personal preferences here, but in the field I carry a couple of cheap, disposable chip brushes and a synthetic angle brush (AKA a sash brush by painters) depending on where I am headed. If weight is an issue, I take chip brushes. Sash Brush Chip Brushes Next up are chisels. Safest bet is Masonry chisels, followed up by Stonecutter's chisels. You can get by with "cold" chisels for fieldwork, and many folks do, but they are designed for metal work and will not withstand rockhounding as their purpose made counterparts will. You will need to take along a file to keep cold chisels sharp. Most non-specialty masory chisels are no more expensive than their metalworking counterparts. Pictured are the exact masonry and stonecutter chisels I use. There are also specialty chisels available for splitting shale. They are a necessity for anyone into such work. They are made from hardened tool steel. They are thin, sharp, and precise. Another is called the "gad pry" and is invaluable for quarry for work and the like. It is a bit heavy though, and only the Estwing is rated for stone work. It gives you all the benefits of a chisel and crowbar in one tool. Next up is Digging Tools First and foremost: If you are new to the hobby, know before you go. On US public lands and many other places, most sites are "surface collecting with minimal disturbance only", meaning, it is a violation of the law to dig. For general fossil hunts, I quit carrying around entrenching tools, folding shovels and the like years ago. They are heavy and I almost never needed them. However sometimes one needs to move a bit of soil, and I prefer the "hori-hori" also known as the garden knife. There are lots of them on the market, but only one meets my standards: The A.M. Leonard Deluxe. They sell these as "stainless steel" but they are not. They are Italian INCONEL steel, and will surface rust/patina a bit if not properly maintained. However, I can tuck this guy in my boot or belt, and when used with a geology pick, I rarely need anything else. I use the version that does not have the useless gator serration edge. This is not a sharp knife, it is a digging tool. The serrated edge is handy for cutting weeds and roots in the garden but merely a pain in the gluteus maximus for rockhounding. (sometimes literally) Other popular digging tools for fossil hunters: The classic entrenching tool, also called a council pick: The classic military folding shovel, often (mistakenly) called an trench tool by The Estwing Paleo Pick is also popular* civilians and a latrine tool by military veterans. *Please note that the paleo pick is illegal in many public fossil hunting areas in the USA as it is bigger than the size standards set by law. As of 2020, it appears Estwing has shortened the handle to bring it into compliance, but to be frank, I find this tool to be too heavy and too bulky to carry all day and it doesn't do anything my geo pick and hori-hori can't do. I keep mine in my car in the winter for snow emergencies these days. The last Item I'll discuss are sieves. Apparently, Sifting for micro and macro fossils has become popular in the last decade or so. Sifting isn't just for paleontologists and lonely kids in the middle of nowhere with nothing else to do anymore! It is hard to suggest sieves to beginners. Different sizes are needed for different locations. The most basic is just a few sections of "hardware cloth" in various sizes. This is also sold simply as "wire mesh". It is cheap and you can cut it however you like with scissors. When I was a barefoot farm kid back in the 70s and 80s, I would use a can opener to remove the bottoms of coffee and soup cans and duct tape sections of hardware cloth over the hole. Now one has a combination scoop and sieve for use in lose soil, beaches, and such. Depending on where you live, you can get this product in metric sizes too. This stuff is just galvanized mild steel, so it will rust after a while due to abrasion. You can get other sizes in brass and stainless steel and even copper, but they will cost you. The best way to use this stuff is start big and work down to small. I won't go into detail as the interwebs are full of how to videos for the techniques you can find on your own. These days, I splurged a bit a bought a cheap set of sieves made specifically for the earth sciences. Thanks again to the interwebs, you can get very nice sets for really very little money. I use eight mesh size version of this exact set: It can be had for as little as 30USD if you search a bit. Many vendors sell them for three times that...so it is worth the extra effort to find the affordable ones. They are all made by the same overseas manufacturer and feature stainless steel mesh and ABS plastic. They also nest into a pack friendly stack. They are very light weight and a big improvement over my garbage bag full of duct taped coffee cans... If you have money to burn or live in mining country, you can find professional sieves at thrift and antique stores, industrial auctions, etc. . I don't recommend these to beginners as they are heavy and have sharp edges, but they are beautiful to look at and can provide bragging rights. A brand new set of these will set you back at least a few hundred USD. Used ones can be had in mining country for just a buck or two a piece. So, there you have it, an sensory overload of goodies to use in the field. Just remember, all you really need is your eyes, hands, and a bit of common sense, but as with many hobbies, the more you get into it, the more you want the right stuff. Good hunting.
  9. Nimravis

    Field Collecting Container

    Today I picked up this cool, handled container at a local hardware store for I believe $16.00. This will be perfect for me when I collect in Southern Indiana. I can separate the fossils by species as I find them.
  10. Stij

    Unidentified Fossil

    Hi, first time on the site. Walking along a track beside a newly ploughed field on a hilltop in a small town in the south of England and came across a fossilised bone and wondered if anyone out there had any ideas as to what kind of animal it may have belonged - appreciate any feedback on this.
  11. Becky Benfer

    Fossil?

    Could this be a fossil or just a concretion?
  12. Becky Benfer

    What’s on the bottom of this ?

    I believe it’s a flint core because it feels really soft and smooth. I love it’s look but when I look at the end of it there’s a golden color (please tell me it’s gold)! I’m sure it’s not .... haha... it won’t wash off or scratch off easily. Any ideas? Thanks for your help! Found in Ohio in a field ,in North central area.
  13. John_smith

    Flint fossil ID

    Hi, am totally new to fossils but came across this in the corner of a farm field in Surrey, England, UK. Was wondering if anyone could ID it for me? Thanks!
  14. caterpillar

    alien

    I've found an alien
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