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Found 15 results

  1. Acetone soak

    Hi all. I have a piece of matrix that has been consolidated in paraloid. How long do I soak it in acetone to dissolve the consolidation? Thank you in advance.
  2. hi guys i need to stabilise quite a lot of sth stuff at the moment so am need of quite a bit of paraloid b-72 and acetone, maybe 200g paraloid and 500 g acetone, im not quite sure on what ratio to use so any help/advice would be great, in return, ask for any kid of fossil, i have quite a wide variety that i can offer
  3. Can Acetone remove Vinac from Fossils?

    Hey everyone, Today I worked on applying vinac to plant fossils and messed up on one fossil and I was wondering if there was anyway to remove vinac from a fossil? Could acetone work? Any suggestions are wanted! Thanks!
  4. Will this Respirator work for acetone?

    Hey everyone, Today I am going to be creating vinac with acetone and I was wondering if this type of respirator will work against acetone. It’s a 3M performance respirator with p100. Thanks!
  5. Hey there, im hoping some of the clever folks here might be able to offer some advice on a prep im working on. Im currently prepping a large 150 - 200 pound block. In the initial prep, a part of the block cracked and opened up a small crevice. This crevice did not beak completely into two pieces, it was still held together by the un removed matrix surrounding the fossil. At the time, i didn't want this to slowly shake into a bigger crack or lose pieces due to the vibration of the air tools. There was/is a lot more prep to do and between prep and flipping over a large block i was worried about loosing pieces. So i filled this gap with super glue with the idea that i could reverse this later on and join the two pieces together much tighter so the crack would disappear or be less noticeable. As the prep continues, im getting closer to the time when im going to have to re glue the pieces. The problem is that a lot of small pieces of the fossil are glued back on around the area of the break. So i need to figure a way to dissolve the glue at the break but not in the area around the break. Normally i would place the entire fossil in a tub of acetone to dissolve the glue from the joint and then glue the two pieces back together. But since there are a lot of small, non descript pieces close to the break, im reluctant to do this. I already tried poring acetone over the break to try to separate the two pieces but this didnt work. This would all be easier if the fossil was not so large, heavy and hard to move. I may end up having to soak the whole thing in acetone to dissolve this joint but i want to avoid this if possible. Does anyone have any suggestions for alternate ways to remedy this problem? Hard to photograph this fossil so here is a basic drawing of the problem. Nick
  6. Hello all, I started collecting fossils as a hobby a few years ago, trusting sources without question. I recently bought my first expensive fossil (Keichousaurus) online. I know they are often faked (or at least heavily restored) so I want to confirm that mine is legitimate. I did a scrape test which revealed more bone so that was good. However, I did an acetone test on a couple of the bones and the bones faded a little bit and the q tip I used picked up some dark grey/black. I also tried it on the matrix in three places which pulled up even more black on the q tip (more than the fossil had done). I was wondering if this is normal or not. Can you please help me determine if my Kiechousaurus is genuine? The picture shows one arm untouched (the top of the picture) which you can see is a bit darker than the bottom arm which has been swiped with acetone. Thanks for your help!
  7. Acetone additives

    I just received what I thought was pure acetone for mixing with Paraloid B72. However there is an additive of denatonium benzoate, which I assume is a required bittering agent to prevent consumption. Will this cause any issues?
  8. I am going to feel bad if there is already a post with as much information as I am looking for, but I can't seem to find one. Essentially, I am having a hard time finding the proper consolidation materials. I have never prepped before, and I am going to be starting my first project this weekend. That being said, the extent of my knowledge of sealants comes from research on this forum. I am looking for the right materials to use (with or without acetone dilute) to keep my fossils from being damaged while working on some Moroccan matrix. I'm not finding anywhere reliable to purchase PVA B-15, Butvar, or anything of the sort. Is there a more easily accessible material I can work with? I need very little at this point in time, and not necessarily something expensive or overly high-quality as the items I will be working with are small and cheap. What are other alternatives that people use, and what are the benefits of each of them? I am eager to know all there is to know, and I've been slowly going down the list of each of the topics in this thread hoping to find what I'm looking for!
  9. Mixing Paraloid

    JohnBrewer kindly sent me some paraloid, i've gone out and bought some 98% acetone and a glass jar. How much Paraloid should i put into a small coffee jar? Thanks
  10. Butvar artifacts.

    Every time I use Butvar in acetone (10% w/v) on a fossil, I get a white milky residue that is very difficult to clean off. I was told that the relative humidity had to be below 50% to avoid the white residue, but in Florida that does not happen that often. Questions: 1) How can I pull off the white residue without damaging the mammal fossil (manatee skull)? 2) Will a 5-10% PVA solution in ethanol work better in a high humidity environment than Butvar? 3) Would dissolving Butvar in ethanol work better than in acetone for the white residue? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. TrilobiteAndrew
  11. Can I use nail polish remover made of acetone as a solvent for PVA to stabilize a fossil? If not, what is the safest way to dispose of a can of partially used acetone? thanks!
  12. Butvar questions

    Hey Guys, I'm working on trying to mix up some butvar and acetone to put on a tusk tip fragment thats cracking/falling apart. I have had some butvar in a plastic ziplock in the garage for about 3-4 years and never used it. I worked thru the math from some of the other threads and decided that 1 tsp in 8 oz of acetone would get me started and might not be too shiney. About 4 hours ago I put the stuff in a glass jar and its still looking cloudy and I can still see lots of material floating around inside when I swirl it. Will it be completely clear or still somewhat cloudy? I read some threads about it taking a while--not sure what that really equates to. I know some of you are probably dealing with temps much colder but its only 70 here today and overcast at the moment and I'm wondering if this is going to take most of the day for the butvar to dissolve before I can use it. Could butvar sitting in a very hot garage for years and exposed to excessive heat degrade? and that might be part of my problem? Acetone was just purchased last night. Or could I just be impatient as usual? LOL. Thanks! Regards, Chris
  13. Removing crappy glue

    Ok so while in morocco I bought 2 rib fossils but have been poorly put together in my opinion trying to remove said mystery glue I heard acetone works and did soften and turn to a loosish sticky gunk however now it has dried the bones have this white milky coating over them is this normal? I've never had to remove glue before any help would be appreciated. Matt
  14. Paraloid Ponderings

    My first shot at prepping ANYTHING! I will describe by process with the hope of some constructive criticism. PIX 1: I used only dental picks for this Oreodont partial jaw as the matrix is soft. I also found that a Qtip with water, softened some of the tougher spots. PIX 2: I used a soft bristle brush to apply a dilute acetic acid which served well to remove the last of the residual matrix. PIX 3: I neutralized the acid with a soak in Sodium Bicarbonate PIX 4: Into the oven at 200 F for one hour to drive off all moisture. PIX 5: Into a 5% solution of Paraloid. I used Pyrex brand with a snap lid and seal that does not react with the Acetone nor does the lid seem to get gummed up with the Paraloid. The piece was still warm when I put it in the Paraloid solution and it bubbled vigorously for several minutes as the solution soaked in. All told the bubbles lasted for 1 hour. PIX 6: Cool shot of air escaping the piece. PIX 7: To slow down the evaporation of the Acetone, I sealed the piece in a ziplock and placed in at 25 F (note the snow!!! this is Minnesota) I could see the Acetone condensate on the bag. After 1 hour I opened the bag and let it dry completely. PIX 8: Finished and on the way to my 8 year old grandson in Florida!
  15. I love the look of polished stones, but I'm not going to tumble my fossils! I also have fossils that are constantly "shedding" bits of sand, gravel, and brachiopod parts. Yes, I have the expensive, special order Paraloid/Acryloid B72 and the acetone to cut it with. But its a hassle to mix up. I have been using ModPodge with great success! And it reverses with just a soak in acetone, just like B72. Inexpensive, available at any craft store, no mixing, comes in matte and gloss, but even the matte has a little shine. It is a glue, so it keeps them from shedding if sandy or fragile. Also, if you rub mineral oil onto an agate and bake it for 20 minutes or so to help penetration, it comes out with a "poor man's shine". Just an FYI. :-D
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