Trig Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Hello...Regarding Madagascar Split Pair Ammonites from China... It would seem that what they "sell for $$$" probably indicates they're "Finished" very quickly...just the economics of it...??? Maybe only a 2 step sanding on the "Face" to achieve the finish they have...and maybe not much finer than a 600 grit...??? I ask because I'll probably try to achieve a "Finer" finish on a small test pair...If they're gon'a live in an Old Crystal Candy Dish on the Coffee Table...they might as well be as "Glitzy" as the dish they live in...I'm sure I've got 1000 - 2500 grit lay'in around in the Garage somewhere...another hunting expedition...any thoughts on what grit might be "Fine Enough" for a bit finer finish...??? On the backs I might want to try removing the "Nacre"...I hope that term is correct...to expose the Sutures and maybe get to a finish similar to the image below...I have a Variable Speed Dremel but would prefer not use it...I don't have the hand dexterity or vision I once had and even with a soft Brass Brush...I'd probably do more harm than good...Any best way to go about that...??? I think I've seen some reference to a Vinegar Wash and "OO" Steel Wool could be used...??? And...since it's basically Calcite...what about maybe trying a little 'Diluted" CLR and Steel Wool...???...It's a pretty thin layer... Then hand finishing with say 1000 -1500 grit sand paper...??? I'd love to hear any thoughts you might have...Trig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digit Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Would love to see how the refined polishing works out. One quick point to note though about using steel wool and vinegar wash. Make sure the steel wool and vinegar aren't used at the same time. Steel wool dissolved in vinegar makes a strong oxidizing solution that is often used as an "aging" finish for wood products--do an internet search for "steel wool vinegar" and you'll see lots of information on this. I've used this to age a custom made kava bowl that I picked up in Fiji a few years back--to good effect. I have no idea what this would do to the minerals in a nice ammo like the one pictured above but I think I'd want to test it on something less precious in case it stains it black. If you are looking at spiffing-up the finish on the curved surface of the ammo, you might consider getting a buffing wheel (or buffing ball) for a drill and use some fine polishing compound to evenly work over the surface till it gleams. I'll state up front that I have absolutely no experience doing such things to ammonites but that is how I'd approach it from my experience with other materials. Post photos of the finished product--and maybe some of your experimentation along the way. Make this a learning experience--for better or for worse--that the readers of this forum may use to their benefit. Cheers. -Ken 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJB Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 What digit said. Your 1000 grit under water will work perfectly. Some polishing ruge, I use stainless steel ruge, with your dremel and a firm polishing wheel and it will shine like nobody's business. Here is a polishing wheel I use with my foredom. Same thing as a dremel, just a bit more industrial. RB 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJB Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Oh, you may want to keep the shell material on the opposing side to show what it looks like with the shell still on? Makes for an interesting comparison. Just my opinion. RB 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trig Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Thanks Much for your thoughts...I seem to ALWAYS learn something new around here...and better for it...!!! The "Tip" concerning that the "Vinegar + Steel Wool" might not be such a good idea...is well noted... I do have several flavors of "Buffing Wheels"...But the Dremel does make me a bit nervous... Whatever I might do...It'll be a very small test spot...Maybe a single drop of the diluted CLR off of a Q-Tip... Let it sit for while and see if a "Scotch Bright Pad" might just be enough...??? If I do try something I'll keep a few notes and snap a pix or 2 along the way...and always endeavor to "Do No Harm"... And I just might have the perfect pair...smallish but big enough to work on...especially the back of the 1/2 on the "right"...below... Thanks Again...Trig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digit Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 It's just me--and these are YOUR ammonite halves--but I kinda like the contrast of the rough exterior and the smooth colorful interior of the split pair you just posted. If you need to further polish up the inside of that split ammo it looks like you'll have a flat finish to work on (where it was bisected with the saw blade). That should be easy to work with some wet sandpaper at 1000 and 2000 grits (maybe with some rubbing compound). Should be easier to work than the curved surface of the first one you posted. Looking forward to see how they turn out. Cheers. -Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trig Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 (edited) A quick caveat...I am in complete agreement with 99 3/4% of the folks around here that "Fossils" should NOT be coated/sealed etc...with one exception being as the last best chance to preserve structural integrity of a specimen... Another exception would possibly be a "Split Pair Ammonite"...I guess I feel their journey down the road to being presented as a "Jewel" of sorts...began the moment they were split with a Lapidary Saw...I'm quite sure I'll have at least one pair where the backs will remain "Un-Touched"...I'm equally as sure the pair I find to live in the "Crystal Candy Dish" will be properly attired to reside in the Dish... And...it also addresses an obvious protection issue for both the Dish and the Ammonite...The rims of those split pairs are quite thin and I'm sure are as fragile as they look...If someone can't sit on my couch and check'em out up close...I wouldn't want them there in the 1st place...I have certain special Acrylic Clear Coats that are my preferred finishing top coat on "Tiny Cars"... Posting a pix of my little test spots would be worthless...you can only see what I did in-hand with a glass or a loupe...and little effect... 1. The 'Nacre"(?) on the back is tougher than I would have guessed at 1st glance...CLR..no luck...240 dry very little effect... A Dremel / Abrader /Wire Wheel would seem the only choice...and honestly...in Retirement...It'd be too much work for me... 2. The "Face" of the one I played with obviously had some sort of polish/sealer on it...the half I sanded a bit got a little dusty so I gave it a quick washing with a single drop of Dawn...even my rusty eyes could see that the shine was virtually gone...mostly... Now that I've gotten quite wordy...again...when I find that "Right" pair and they're all "Gussied Up"...I'll post a shot or 2 of those... And...Thanks So Much For Your Comments And In-put...I Do Appreciate Your Time...Trig Edited May 26, 2016 by Trig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatinformationist Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 The best polishing cheat is the same stuff that you polish your teeth with.. toothpaste. Works on auto headlamp covers too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trig Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 I did take a few more quick shots where you could actually see something...just mess'in around at this point...here's 2... Pix 1: Left Half...you can plainly see how the "Finish" was removed with just a quick bath...single drop of Dawn & finger... Top Left same half got a test patch of the Acrylic Clear Coat I use on "Tiny Cars"...It's a Gloss but not obnoxiously shiny... Pix 2: Left Half...just a bit of sanding but you can see the Sutures becoming more obvious... Another tid-bit is there was a spot on the "Rim" that was pretty darned sharp...not Obsidian sharp...but sharp enough to notice... Basic Goal: A light protective coating...Dress'em up just a little bit...Easy to clean..."Of Course you handle them...check'em out"... Trig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdsnl Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 The best polishing cheat is the same stuff that you polish your teeth with.. toothpaste. Works on auto headlamp covers too. Is it better than sand paper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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