Glue for Dinosaur Bones

[keithmegalodon]

Hello TFF,

 

 I own this dinosaur bone that broke. I do not have any experience in prepping dinosaur material so I just wanted to ask what would be best to glue the fossil together or what glue to use?

 

Thanks so much guys!

[Mike from North Queensland]

Keith

 

As you are in Australia use Tarzans grip as this is one I was told to use by a friend who used to work at a museum.

 

Mike

[LordTrilobite]

For repairing broken off parts. Cyanoacrylate (super glue).

[Ptychodus04]

I use Paleo Bond. They have a very low viscosity (2cps) cyanoacrylate penetrant/stabilizer that you apply to both surfaces. This will draw into the bone to give a deep base for the glue. Then, if the joint is VERY clean and tight, you can just bond it with a few more drops of the stabilizer. If the bone is a bit porous or the break is a bit messy, you can employ a variety of higher viscosity cyanoacrylates (100, 750, 1500, or 80000 cps) for the bond. the higher the viscosity, the longer it takes for the glue to set.

[Minnesota Nice]

25 minutes ago, Ptychodus04 said:

I use Paleo Bond. They have a very low viscosity (2cps) cyanoacrylate penetrant/stabilizer that you apply to both surfaces. This will draw into the bone to give a deep base for the glue. Then, if the joint is VERY clean and tight, you can just bond it with a few more drops of the stabilizer. If the bone is a bit porous or the break is a bit messy, you can employ a variety of higher viscosity cyanoacrylates (100, 750, 1500, or 80000 cps) for the bond. the higher the viscosity, the longer it takes for the glue to set.

 

 

1 hour ago, LordTrilobite said:

For repairing broken off parts. Cyanoacrylate (super glue).

 

Ptychodus04 and LordTrilobite, 

I am interested in your thoughts on use of cyanoacrylate for repairs. I have read in the forum elsewhere that it is difficult to reverse cyanoacrylate once it is absorbed into the material and set. I understand that not everyone is concerned about reversibility in their repairs but are there other options that have the same strength? 

[LordTrilobite]

Indeed. I don't consider cyanoacrylate reversible. It the repair has to be correct the first time. Which is why I only glue with cyanoacrylate if I absolutely know for sure that the pieces match. And I place them together first and then apply the glue to make sure it's in the correct position.

[Ptychodus04]

Cyanoacrylate is actually a relatively weak bond. The trade off is in the setting time. It's strong for a quick setting adhesive. If you have plenty of time (at least 24 hours) and a way to stabilize a fossil during a slow set, Vinac, Butvar, or Paraloid (mixed in a high viscosity solution) are the best for a strong yet fully reversible bond.

 

You can soften cyanoacrylate in acetone enough to disassemble a bad bond but for full removal of the adhesive you need to employ a scribe to mechanically remove.

[keithmegalodon]

Oh wow thanks guys for your replies! 

[keithmegalodon]

On 20/12/2016 at 11:15 PM, Mike from North Queensland said:

Keith

 

As you are in Australia use Tarzans grip as this is one I was told to use by a friend who used to work at a museum.

 

Mike

Hey Mike

 

  I saw they had different kinds of Tarzans grip.   just one last question, should I use the general purpose glue or the super glue? Thanks again

[Pemphix]

One remark for the cyanoacrylate: i use it to stabilize weak bones in the field or to fix bigger fragments fast. This works fine for small to medium-size bones, but i would not trust for big ones like from dinosaur.

Another -well known- problem with the superglue: you always better wear safety-gloves and -glasses not to glue your fingers or eyes accidentally. At least you need to be aware, always read the use-instructions - the chemicals of the superglue are not really healthy...

 

[Ridgehiker]

Some perspective is needed. 

 

If this is just to fix an isolated piece of bone or glue two halves of a vertebra...just use white glue.  

 

If the specimen has some scientific value beyond this then one can explore other adhesives.

 

I use white glue for bones and superglue for teeth...no issue after 40 years.  If I have a specimen that I want to be able to look at the interior, then I dont glue it or I use childrens washable glue as it dissolves with warm water.  

 

Many specialty   bonds are great but mostly used by those who are prepping and trying to restore a specimen. Reversible sounds fine if you have a specimen that has full documentation and potential scientific value.  However I'm not concerned about reversible if gluing two halves of a hadrosaur vertebra together or sticking a tip on a Tyrannosaur tooth.  If I have a rare raptor jaw...I'm more diligent. 

[Mike from North Queensland]

Keith

 

The Tarzans grip I use is the general purpose clear adhesive in the 30 ml tube that claims to glue most things - from the safety data sheet is an Ethyl Acetate / acetone mix.

It was not until I saw your post asking which Tarzans Grip I checked and found the manufacturer now uses that trade name for several different lines now, so even more confusing.

I like the others use the small tubes of super glue (cyanoacrylate) in the 3 ml tube when joining smaller specimens and this seems to be one of the few glues that is sold under a universal name worldwide. The only other universal glue / product is Paraloid B72 that comes as plastic bead and you mix yourself to various strengths depending on the use and is a specialised product.

As you may have noticed as an international forum is people like myself use "trade names" we have always used for most of the various glues, as this is what we always brought the item as, I am still not sure what Vinac or Butvar are and suspect white glue is what I would call PVA (poly vinyl acetate).

[Ptychodus04]

On 12/22/2016 at 11:27 AM, Canadawest said:

Some perspective is needed. 

 

If this is just to fix an isolated piece of bone or glue two halves of a vertebra...just use white glue.  

 

If the specimen has some scientific value beyond this then one can explore other adhesives.

 

I use white glue for bones and superglue for teeth...no issue after 40 years.  If I have a specimen that I want to be able to look at the interior, then I dont glue it or I use childrens washable glue as it dissolves with warm water.  

 

Many specialty   bonds are great but mostly used by those who are prepping and trying to restore a specimen. Reversible sounds fine if you have a specimen that has full documentation and potential scientific value.  However I'm not concerned about reversible if gluing two halves of a hadrosaur vertebra together or sticking a tip on a Tyrannosaur tooth.  If I have a rare raptor jaw...I'm more diligent. 

 

I would humbly argue that with the ready availability of conservation grade adhesives there is never an appropriate time to use white glue on a fossil. It forms a rather weak superficial bond that is almost wholly irreversible. If you have something large to glue and you are fine with irreversible, why not go for a slow set epoxy which is much stronger?

 

The internet has made conservation grade products available at reasonable cost to the general public. $25 worth of B-15/Butvar/Paraloid when purchased in bead form will last the average collector for years.

 

 

[Ridgehiker]

White glue has served me fine for decades.  Cost $1.99. 

 

The superglue is available at a dollar store.  4 tiny tubes for a buck.  This way I open a tube, use it once, then toss it.  

[Minnesota Nice]

2 hours ago, Ptychodus04 said:

I would humbly argue that with the ready availability of conservation grade adhesives there is never an appropriate time to use white glue on a fossil. It forms a rather weak superficial bond that is almost wholly irreversible. If you have something large to glue and you are fine with irreversible, why not go for a slow set epoxy which is much stronger?

 

The internet has made conservation grade products available at reasonable cost to the general public. $25 worth of B-15/Butvar/Paraloid when purchased in bead form will last the average collector for years.

 

1 hour ago, Canadawest said:

White glue has served me fine for decades.  Cost $1.99. 

 

The superglue is available at a dollar store.  4 tiny tubes for a buck.  This way I open a tube, use it once, then toss it.  

 

THIS is why I love this forum! Much of this conversation has to do with our diverse personalities. I am brand new to restoration, repair, and reinforcement in fossils and my SLIGHT OCD tendencies immediately led me to an in-depth research on the Forum and in the scientific papers and I was led to the obvious conclusion that I must order a batch of Paraloid B72 for my consolidating and adhesive needs...if its good for the REAL paleontologist it must be good for a poser like me...or I could have gone to the dollar store....dang

[Ptychodus04]

16 hours ago, Canadawest said:

White glue has served me fine for decades.  Cost $1.99. 

 

The superglue is available at a dollar store.  4 tiny tubes for a buck.  This way I open a tube, use it once, then toss it.  

 

@Canadawest To each his own right? I've just had too many people bring me fossils to restore that were coated in white glue decades before and now it is yellow and cloudy. They always want it removed and I get to spend hours playing with acetone, praying the piece doesn't start to fall apart, and scraping old white glue boogers out of every indentation in the specimen. (I cringe with the memory).

 

I certainly appreciate the friendly debate. I like how we can disagree here and nobody gets their feelings hurt.

 

 

[Kane]

I've used white glue on a trilobite that shattered, and purely for presentation purposes. I've also used sticky tack (the kind of stuff you might use to affix small things to a wall without using nails or thumbtacks). Of course, if I found a rare, museum-quality piece I'd just as soon use nothing and trust the experts!