sseth Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Just finished prepping this great Diplomystus found by a guest at our quarry. It was the first fossil they have ever found so I wanted it to be something special for them. Not much to work with but it turned out pretty good. I used a scribe to clean up the fish a bit, PVA to stabilize the fossil and prevent further flaking, and then had to do some restoration using fossil putty and a bit of touch up paint to restore a few missing areas for them, as they wanted a piece that they could hang on their wall and display. 3 _____________________________________ Seth www.fossilshack.com www.americanfossil.com www.fishdig.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kane Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Turned out beautifully. You've definitely spoiled that guest with great skill and kindness, and now they'll come to expect that level of professional appearance going forward. ...How to Philosophize with a Hammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paciphacops Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 That looks great! Do you stabilize after you have completely finished the prepping on small sections, or do you stabilize everything before more damage occurs during matrix removal? I'm working on a Phareodus I found at your quarry a couple of weeks ago. The flaky/friable nature of some small areas is extreme. Removal of the matrix tends to cause these areas to turn to dust with the slightest touch, while most other areas are much more forgiving. Stabilizing before matrix removal would help, but then the matrix may be much harder to remove. So far, I'm finishing small areas and stabilizing/gluing as I go, if needed, but some damage seems unavoidable. "Don't force it, just use a bigger hammer" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sseth Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 1 hour ago, Paciphacops said: That looks great! Do you stabilize after you have completely finished the prepping on small sections, or do you stabilize everything before more damage occurs during matrix removal? I'm working on a Phareodus I found at your quarry a couple of weeks ago. The flaky/friable nature of some small areas is extreme. Removal of the matrix tends to cause these areas to turn to dust with the slightest touch, while most other areas are much more forgiving. Stabilizing before matrix removal would help, but then the matrix may be much harder to remove. So far, I'm finishing small areas and stabilizing/gluing as I go, if needed, but some damage seems unavoidable. I stabilize all exposed material as soon as the rock is dry. I then stabilize as I prepare the fossil and expose any new material. The other key is to have the right tools for preparation and using magnification so you can see better what is happening with the rock. 5 _____________________________________ Seth www.fossilshack.com www.americanfossil.com www.fishdig.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy's Dad Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Gorgeous! Great prep job! Life's Good! Tortoise Friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xiphactinus Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Nice fishy!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Nice work @sseth. @Paciphacops, I typically wind up stabilizing Split Fish material 6 or 7 times during the prep. I apply after the smallest bits of bone are exposed in order to keep them from totally falling apart. If you use the right material (McGean B15, Paraloid, or Butvar) you can remove any extra that has built up with acetone. 4 Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paciphacops Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 1 hour ago, Ptychodus04 said: If you use the right material (McGean B15, Paraloid, or Butvar) you can remove any extra that has built up with acetone. I have paraloid B72. I have been using it at ~2-4% in acetone or sometimes an acetone/ethanol mix. I have thought about removing matrix until only a thin layer is left over the fish, then giving the whole thing a deep soak in weak paraloid, followed by leaching out the paraloid from the thin matrix with a brief acetone rinse to soften it a bit. I should definitely try this on some practice pieces first. 1 "Don't force it, just use a bigger hammer" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 2% is the mix I use. I’ve had good results letting the fossil wick it off a small paintbrush and repeat. This allows the specimen to actually pull the consolidant up under the matrix slightly. If you have multiple areas you are working on, you can rotate to allow the solvent to evaporate. Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peat Burns Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Wow, that really is an aquarium in stone! Very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludwigia Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Nice job! Can't even tell where you've done the restoration, despite the original photo. Greetings from the Lake of Constance. Roger http://www.steinkern.de/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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