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Hi! I'm looking for advice. I found this fossil yesterday and like so many others I find it's on an unstable piece and has a major crack through it. I'd hate to coat it with anything as I prefer to keep things natural. Yet I'm also worried that it might just fall apart on its own or from handling. What's my best course of action? Any advice/help is appreciated.

Hello fellow fossil fanatics, I recently found some great crinoid fossils, and I was wondering if any of you had recommendations regarding how they would be best prepared. Both fossils are in two pieces, and I bought Krazy glue today to fuse the pieces together. Since I have never done this before, is there any particular technique which allows for the best bonding? Should I separate the pieces, apply the glue, then reattach? Or should I try to have the glue seep into the seam between the pieces without separating them? The rocks both seem to be very full of crinoid stems! Do you think I should try to expose more using an air scribe? I would prefer to use an air eraser but my Paasche is so weak, it does nothing to any of the rocks I have used in the past. When prepping, should I try to go around the fossil imprints on the surface? What do you guys think?

I'm starting to get into mechanical prep seeing as with the quarantine I have extra time on my hand. My equipment arrived before my projects did so I've been practicing on this invert I had on hand. I believe this is a gastropod? Or is it a bivalve? I can never keep them straight in my head. Anyways, I forgot to take a before picture so I apologize for this awful photo as it was the only one I had: And this is it currently: Obviously not done yet, needs some more work and then some serious clean up to make it look nice but I'm thinking to put it aside for a while. The matrix is very annoying. There is less than a millimeter of rock covering the left side but as I learned the hard way on a small section, haste leads to immediate damage of the fossil. Prying upwards is great for chipping the rock away quickly but wants to take the fossil with it I'll finish it eventually but it will be slow, slow going. On a more exciting note one of my real projects arrived today. Here in a bit I'll draw up and post a plan of attack and tomorrow I'll probably get a start on it. My hope is that with this thread I can get your guys' opinions and advice to help prevent me from adding another cautionary tale on the bungled extractions thread

Hi, I found this beautiful little asterophyllites yesterday and noticed that there seems to be some rock covering part of the fossil. I'd like to be able to remove the rock and expose the fossil. It's very solid and too thin for any of my chisels. Would an air-abrasive pen or dental equipment work? Perhaps professional help would be appropriate.

Hello, This might be a simple/straightforward question, but I'm still curious to know how you guys deal with all the rubble created from fossil preparation.

Hi everyone, Im new to this forum but have stumbled across it while trying to find information about psittacosaurus, I have a quite large complete (I think) specimen, over 3.5 feet long. The bones are prepared but not mounted. Does anyone know of anyone in England that can prepare these to being mounted? Looking forward to speaking with fellow collectors out there kind regards

Hello everyone, I am a new member and i do not understand much about fossil. Although i am very pationate about them. I found this fossil myself and i would like to remove the matrix attached to the fossil. I tried vinegar and a tooth brush. It kinda worked on the top of the fossil where you can see the tiniest spirals. That method cosumed about 2 days of work and only uncovered that tiny piece of the fossil. I am also concerned that the acid frrom the vinegarr will partially destrroy the fossil. What is the best way to do this? Best Regards, Bruno

Hello, I have a question regarding best preparation techniques for Eocene concretions from Sheppey. They look like this: I'm not doing the preparation myself - I'm asking to help the guy who is supposed to prepare them, as it's a new material for him and he doesn't want to ruin the fossils. I will appreciate your expert advice Kasia

I'm prepping fossils in Oolitic limestone, which is new for me. This fossil is small and delicate, and appears to be a tooth. Should I use hand tools, or what I was thinking was cotton bud, vinegar and a lot of patience? I'm concerned the vinegar would attack the tooth. The white patches are where I scraped the matrix with hand tools, but I wasn't confident this was the best method.

Hello. Do you guys think I can prep this crab from Al Ain (part of the United Arab Emirates)? It looks pretty beaten up, but I am hoping the ventral side might still be there. I have tried preparing urchins in this matrix with a very diluted water-vinegar solution. Do you think this could work for the crab as well?

Hello Forum, I've been working on some beginner Trilobites I've been able to buy from a local Rock Store. Most are not in a good state of preservation but are fun to work on and learn. The bug below has a waxy coating on it and I'm wondering if someone can tell me what that is, and also the best way to clean it off. I scribed down to the shell with an air tool, and now I'm just using a pin vise to scrap away as much as I can. Is this the best approach?

Hi all, I am finally getting ready to proceed with stabilizing the specimens I found in this trip: They are basically big sandstone steinkerns, now fully dry. They were found in ferrous sandstone concretions surrounded by sand. The matrix is soft , pieces can be broken off with fingers. I was advised to brush ammos with a PVA solution, but then I thought what if I use Paraloid instead? So the questions are as follows: 0. Is it worth it? 1. If so, what solution should I use? 2%? 5% or more? 2. How much will be required? (the biggest ammo is about 40 cm in diameter and 15 cm thick, 20+kg) 3. How and how many times to apply? With a brush? Once a day for several days in a row (as with PVA) or otherwise? 4. Do I need to cover the surface with a stronger solution afterwards? Thanks in advance! The matrix:

Hi to everyone. I'm preparing a new fossil which comes from Germany in the Cretaceous, these are the information that i have. Now, I have seen that it's quite difficult both to recognize the bones and to eliminate the matrix but the work is going. Have you some advice for this type of fossil? And, i don't want to be wrong, but i see two different bones: a black one and a brown one. Are them two different animal or not? For the type of preparation I'm doing is a mechanic type.

After reading a few articles on removing matrix from fossils, I see most tool lists state a pin vise with carbide/carbon steel needles are standard equipment. I already have pin vises acquired from building models, but I seem to come up short on finding appropriate sized needles. What do you all use?

Hi all, first post and newbie collector so appologies if this is posted in the wrong place. On a Recent trip to Dorset these were found and I’d love some input on the best way to prepare these. One is large and I as tempting as it was to just have at it with the hammer and chisel, I suspect more interesting things may be lurking in there. The others are much smaller and may need something like an air scribe?? Recommendations on that line appreciated also. thank you in advance for any help/tips/recommendations.

Hello! I'm considering coating some of my delicate fossils in Paraloid (mixed with Acetone), to seal them and protect them for the future. How long would a typical, let's say, Green River fish take to decompose without such or similar techniques applied? I am very wary of doing irreversible acts to the rocks, so, how would one de-Paraloid a fossil, and would there be any damage? Just, any tips whatsoever would help, I'm feeling pretty inadequate about all this

I've received a couple requests for more information/instructions on how my DIY dust collection system works so I decided to write this guide. First, a crude diagram to help understand how it works. The idea is for water to act as a filter before dust even gets to the shop vac filter. It keeps the filter almost entirely clean and prevents dust from prematurely killing the motor. It's also a lot easier to clean up as you just dump the dirty water. The setup is simple and as long as the general process goes like this it is fine but I'll walk through how I built my current system. I use a two bucket system because the added height and volume allows for the operation of more powerful vacuums without sucking up the filter water. There are also similar systems available on sites like Youtube but the basic premise is the same. I remember seeing a clear one which was cool but I had the buckets I used for mine lying around already. You can build your own on the cheap with the following stuff. Required Materials 1x Bucket with sealing lid (Ideally a twist-lock lid) 1x Bucket without lid 1x PVC Elbow slip female to threaded male (1-1/4”) 1x PVC Pipe (1-1/4”) length varies but a 32" section gives you plenty. 1x Filter Pad (optional) Required Tools Drill with 1 1/4” hole drill bit Strong epoxy such as Gorilla Glue Step 1. Gather your 2 buckets. I like the rigid twist lock tops since it doesn't bend the pipe hole when you remove the lid like those other sealing lids on buckets do. I used an old chlorine tablet bucket I had around for the bucket with lid. Any ordinary 5 gallon bucket works for the top. Step 2. 2 holes are drilled into the bottom of the bucket without the lid. This will be the intake and outtake of the dust collection system. Step 3. Multiple holes are drilled into the lid of the bucket to accommodate air flow. One of these holes needs to line up with a hole on the bucket without the lid because the intake pipe will be threaded through them both. The multiple holes are under the filter pad (see Step 4.) Step 4 (optional). I like to silicone a disposable filter pad I cut into a circle over the other holes. This is just an added precaution against water leaving the dust collection system. The idea is air will flow through while a random splash of water will mostly be deflected or find it more difficult to make it to the top bucket. Step 5. Combine the buckets. Use a strong epoxy to combine the lidless bucket with the lid of the twist-lock bucket. I used gorilla glue epoxy. Mind the alignment of the intake pipe holes so you can thread the pipe in later. Allow the epoxy to properly cure and dry. The end result of this step is the lid of the bottom bucket and the top bucket as one piece. Step 6. Attach the elbow to one end of the PVC pipe length. PVC glue can be used but isn't really necessary. Cut the length of PVC pipe to the height of both buckets so the intake pipe rests an inch or two off the bottom of the bottom bucket and thread it through the holes. I like to allow this gap at the bottom so larger chunks of rock don't get stuck between the pipe and the bottom. Sometimes I vacuum chunks of matrix directly into the dust collector for disposal. I put a silicone ring around where the elbow sits on top but depending on suction power and how tightly fitting the pipe is this usually isn't necessary. It doesn't hurt though. The system is now complete. The vacuum hose has the regular attachment pushed firmly into the outtake hole. A separate hose connects the intake pipe elbow to the blast cabinet through a slip fit vacuum attachment. The top assembly comes off with the twist-lock and the dirty water is dumped at replaced when necessary. Here's a picture of dirty water after preparation. Operating notes: The working water level varies by vacuum power but you want the water level high enough to cover the bottom of the intake pipe by an inch or 2. If your water level is too high you'll find the vacuum will suck some water up until it gets to a stable water level. As long as the intake pipe is still below the water level this is fine. Hopefully this clears some things up. If anything is still unclear or there are any questions I'll do my best to respond.

I found this in eastern Montana in a wash bed. There were many concretion looks different, irregular surface on top and it is a continuous spiral from top to bottom. Almost looks like poop (coprolite) but it is heavy. How would you go about looking at its interior? Hammer? Scribe? I know people split some of them but I have neve done that.

I've been in the lab this fall/winter but preparation has taken a back seat to the plastics/replicas operations. As things start to wind down with plastics around this time of year, I'm embarking on my next prep project. This specimen is from the same Wyoming locality as the Herpetotherium I posted about recently but was found many years ago(~15?). It appears to just be an upper skull of a small rodent but there is some hope for lowers. I pulled this piece out of its field packaging in April but just now starting preparation in earnest. So far, all I've done is rough prep around the boundary to remove the bulk matrix surrounding it. It was attached to a larger block but there is no evidence of any additional bone fragments in the other block. The bulk removal was done with my trusty ARO but all prep going forward will be done under magnification with a Paleotool's Microjack-3 or pin vices. Identification will take a while but we'll talk about the process as I get the specimen uncovered. If I had to guess at this point, I suspect it to be Paradjidaumo. Time will tell if I'm correct.

Hello Forum! I've been doing some reading on the forum about microscopes and I'd like to say thanks for the information provided, I've learned a lot about stereo microscopes and some of the things to look for. There seems to be a lot of used labratory equipment on certain online auction sites but my question is this; has anyone purchased, sight unseen, a used microscope and how was the experience? Are there specific things I should be looking for to ensure it's in good working order, or are stereo microscopes the type of product that potentially has lots of issues and is not worth taking the chance? Also when it comes to boom stands, are there any you'd highly recommended, because most scopes either have no stand or a traditional one. At this point, I could purchase a brand new entry level scope, or a slightly older Nikon or Olympus. Any thoughts you can provide would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Ryan

Finally got around to prepping out and making a stand for the Hyracodon skull. It was in pretty rough shape and not complete, but I think it displays well. What are your guys thoughts?

Hello TFF members - I'm in need so some advice on this one please. So this is my first post (happy to be corrected on any newbie errors) and although preparation is my favourite part of the fossil game, I am 'fairly' new to it - In other words, please go easy on me, I'm aware it's going to be all too tempting to say I've bitten off more than I can chew here... I recently purchased this Mosasaur skull from a well known European fossil auction site; you may have seen it yourself if you follow such things. It wasn't 'hugely' expensive, but that doesn't mean I'm not serious about making something good out of it and giving it a lot of attention (which clearly it will need...). It is from Morocco, was sold as a Platycarpus (from the teeth I would tend to agree, but please correct if you think otherwise) and originally was complete in a plaster jacket. The seller decided to prep it and remove from the jacket. Whilst this may have exposed more of it, some quite nicely, they have also turned it into the most insanely fragile fossil I have ever come into contact with! It was already in five large pieces when advertised for sale, and despite being very well packaged, has suffered further in transit. The matrix is not much more than hard (ish) sand and the bone only marginally more solid. Doesn't help that it's so crushed, so only matrix between each piece. Clearly leaving it in the matrix, perhaps replacing the jacket with something more aesthetically pleasing as part of a mount and prepping only the surface would have been the way to go, but it's beyond that now, so I would really love some thoughts and suggestions on the following: 1 - Immediate stabilisation and strengthening to prevent further breakages and reattach the broken sections (buckets of CA to solidify the sand matrix and reduce porosity to enable gluing?) 2 - Rebuilding/mounting (combining these two, as it will never be strong enough to hold in one piece and the mounting technique will likely need to be integral as it will need complete support across the entire back. It would never be my first choice, but I'm thinking a rebuilt matrix under the fossil to support and hold it together at the same time?) Ok, lots of text there for background and to give you more context, here are some pictures which will help... Original, in jacket: Advert pics: And another: Now it's home, in a slightly more confused state: And another: Last one, you get the idea: If anyone is interested in seeing more of it, please let me know, have lots of pics. It's an interesting item and despite being crushed to hell, looks to be fairly complete (the reverse tells it's own story too, more teeth there, etc.), but it's realistically only ever going to be an 'in matrix' display piece. Out of curiosity, I believe it's upside down, with the two maxilla visible on top and the upper jaw section being below, sure someone will easily be able to confirm? Anyway, enough from me, would love your thoughts and really appreciate anyone who has the time to consider and reply. If I haven't been clear or you need more info, please just let me know. Thank you, Dave

Hi all! I’ve got this heavily weathered Ceraurus, and I’m trying to figure out if it’s best to leave the critter in the rugged natural state or if more of him might be buried: any pointers on determining this? Trying to think twice and dremel once to avoid mistakes… Thanks!

Hi I don’t normally collect trilobites but we spent a few days in mid wales drinking coffee and reading books. We also got a chance to look for trilobites. Here is a partial on a block and whilst having a dig around, I found another one which I’m prepping out.

Hi everyone, As a beginner i have picked up some pyrite nuggets which hopefully have fossils underneath (hopefully an ammonite). I am wondering which is the best way to uncover what lay beneath (if anything). Lots of mixed methods on the web so can anyone advise which is the best way to start please. Thank you