Need to rebuild CP-9361

[Castle Rock]

Greeting to ALL!  I purchased a used Chicago Pneumatic CP-9361 air scribe and it WAS working fine.  Since I know nothing about the maintenance history of this scribe, I can only assume that a rebuild is required.  Having never performed this rebuild before, I am asking for your assistance/guidance.  For starters, how do I remove the little "c-ring" retention clip to open the tool?  THANKS in advance!   Dave 

[Castle Rock]

I failed to mention that I already have a rebuild kit from Texas Pneumatic Tools.  dave 

[DPS Ammonite]

Here is a manual that may show the parts you are trying to remove: http://etools.cp.com/cpvscatalogue/files/P145929.pdf

 

If this does not help, consider taking a picture of the c clip that you are trying to remove.

[Castle Rock]

Thank you DPS for the manual...it has some useful information (some is even in English).   I KNOW that SOMEBODY around here has had to REBUILD a CP-9361.   I NEED some user EXPERIENCE.......thanks..........>dave 

[oilshale]

Did you see this:

http://toolsrenewed.com/AirToolPrints/CP/Scribe CP-9361.pdf

[Castle Rock]

I do have a copy of that diagram and it would appear that the previous owner MIGHT have removed a section near the base of the tool.  I may need to study any photos I can find of a "factory complete" tool and see if there is a difference.  As stated earlier, I really just need to know how to OPEN the tool...without creating more work for myself.  Dave 

[Castle Rock]

OK...overthinking this....two crescent wrenches...one applied to the flat surface near the top of the body and the other applied at the base...now open.  I did see that the small retaining pin (shown in the above referenced diagram as 8) was partially out of it's proper position.  THIS MAY have caused the tool to malfunction.  As I mentioned in my first note, it was necessary to tap the body of the tool to actuate it's function.  HOWEVER, the diagram indicates that my tool IS, in fact, MISSING the part labeled 22/23, 24 (which IS included in the repair kit that I have) and 25.  I would GUESS that 22/23 and 24 is some kind of particulate FILTER???  I really can't say why the previous owner eliminated this portion of the device OR how it's ABSENCE affects the proper function of the tool.  Should I LUBRICATE the assembly while disassembled?  IF SO, with WHAT lubricant???  I really want to know how to do this CORRECTLY!   Dave 

[Castle Rock]

I truly enjoy talking to myself here.  Of course NO one has ever had this experience..totally new and unique to me........

[rfarrar]

Dave,

 

For a simple piece of equipment there are many things to look at for proper functioning. Make sure all of the o-rings are intact and in place. Replace any that show wear or notching, etc. The roll pin, piston and cylinder (8, 11, & 13) are common culprits in tool malfunctioning. If the cylinder has noticeable play or the holes where the roll pin is inserted look stretched it is time to replace the cylinder. To do this one must remove the roll pin. This is most easily achieved with a 'roll pin punch'. Make sure you have the right size, and just drive the roll pin through. Once the cylinder is removed, examine the piston. If it is chipped or shows a lot of play, or wedges in the cylinder then it should also be replaced. If it is wedging in the cylinder, give it a good cleaning with WD40 and try it again before replacing with a new part. Lightly oil (air tool oil or light machine oil) the fresh (or newly cleaned) piston and drop it into the cylinder. Make sure it moves freely. Slip the cylinder into place on the air inlet spindle. Twist to align the holes for the roll pin. Tap the roll pin into place using a light ball peen hammer and a roll pin punch. Drive it in until flush on both sides. I usually rest the side of the cylinder on a block of wood with a v-notch while tapping the roll pin into place. Make sure that all o-rings are back where they belong and slip the tool back together, first putting the stylus (put a little lithium grease on the sides of the stylus first) in the front end and then slipping the front end over the cylinder assembly. Thread the front end onto the inlet assembly. Hand tightened is usually sufficient. Turn on the air and try it out.

 

The particulate filter on the airline is not necessary if you are using clean, filtered. compressed air. They often are abandoned when the inlet airline is replaced. Lubrication after assembly requires only about 1 drop of air tool oil or light machine oil in the hose end every 8 hours of operation or so. Too much oil and you will be dirtying the fossils with oil as you try to clean it, and will have to take the tool apart to clean it.

 

Hope this helps. I didn't have a tool in front of me as I wrote this, so I may have missed something.

 

Bob

 

 

[Castle Rock]

THANK YOU Bob!  I very much appreciate the help of an experienced guide!  I would ask a couple of additional questions.  Do you use an automatic oiler (inline)? Lastly, my tool seems to be missing the little rotating collar close to the tip of the tool.  I have noticed that schematics often show a removable bushing at the tip of the tool.  Clearly there is no separation between the main body of the area near the tip.  Could it be that I have an older design and the drawings depict the current tool design?  I have reassembled the tool and will give it a try this afternoon. THANKS AGAIN for your help!  Dave 

[Fossilgirlz]

I would like to have a company rebuild this tool for me.  I've already broken some of these cast parts.  I only work will with a hammer and a chizel.

[DLB]

On 5/4/2018 at 6:25 AM, Castle Rock said:

THANK YOU Bob!  I very much appreciate the help of an experienced guide!  I would ask a couple of additional questions.  Do you use an automatic oiler (inline)? Lastly, my tool seems to be missing the little rotating collar close to the tip of the tool.  I have noticed that schematics often show a removable bushing at the tip of the tool.  Clearly there is no separation between the main body of the area near the tip.  Could it be that I have an older design and the drawings depict the current tool design?  I have reassembled the tool and will give it a try this afternoon. THANKS AGAIN for your help!  Dave 

that rotating collar is only used when using chisel tips it locks them in place.

[Fossilis Willis]

There is indeed a removable bushing. The first time I tried to take mine apart, I could have sworn it was all one piece. I ended up putting the front end in a vise and driving the bushing out from the inside with a hammer and wide punch.