Wrangellian Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I have been thinking about what to seal my catalogue numbers with, but as yet haven't figured out what would be best. It needs to be clear so the white number can be seen thru it, like this old specimen I have (below), and also resistant to degradation/humidity etc, but not any more so than the fossils are, really. I am not sure what this person used. I could possibly figure it out with trial and error but if I can avoid that process I will! I thought of (diluted) white glue but the application could be a problem - I have quite a few specimens now (more than 1000) and I can imagine a small paintbrush quickly getting clogged up with dry glue even if I am careful to wash it off asap - in my experience the stuff always starts to dry around the edges before I can even get it rinsed, and over it would build up. Maybe there is no way around this and I just need to plow ahead and get new brushes as needed? It's possible the specimen below has clear nail polish..? Anyway maybe I need to get that Vinac or B-72 soon... or clear acrylic paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I mark my specimen numbers with a fine point Sharpie marker. No need to seal at that point. Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspex Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Vinac/Paraloid/Butvar...A brush swipe. bed the indelible label in it, seal with another brush swipe. It's good enough for museums "There has been an alarming increase in the number of things I know nothing about." - Ashleigh Ellwood Brilliant “Try to learn something about everything and everything about something.” - Thomas Henry Huxley >Paleontology is an evolving science. >May your wonders never cease! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troodon Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Vinac/Paraloid/Butvar...A brush swipe. bed the indelible label in it, seal with another brush swipe. It's good enough for museums And I believe this method is reversible with acetone in case you change your mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejd Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I agree with Auspex on his methods. I label my fossils according the the attached paper. It works very well and is reversible as Troodon states. AMNH_Specimen_Labeling_Procedures.pdf A fossil hunter needs sharp eyes and a keen search image, a mental template that subconsciously evaluates everything he sees in his search for telltale clues. -Richard E. Leakey http://prehistoricalberta.lefora.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DE&i Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Great post and couldn't come at a better time. Where can I acquire indelible labels. Regards.....D&E&i The only certainty with fossil hunting is the uncertainty. https://lnk.bio/Darren.Withers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspex Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Great post and couldn't come at a better time. Where can I acquire indelible labels. Some low-acid paper and a fine-tip archival pen is all you need. (Well, that and a few specimens needing labels...) "There has been an alarming increase in the number of things I know nothing about." - Ashleigh Ellwood Brilliant “Try to learn something about everything and everything about something.” - Thomas Henry Huxley >Paleontology is an evolving science. >May your wonders never cease! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DE&i Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Some low-acid paper and a fine-tip archival pen is all you need. (Well, that and a few specimens needing labels...) Now I know where i was going wrong...was getting really frustrated with constant blurring so decided to put this huge task on the back boiler for a while. But now after the PDF from rejd ill give it another whirl.. 9) Let the ink dry completely, for at least several hours. If drying does not take place, the acetone in the overcoat of Acryloid [glossary link] will dissolve the ink, creating a blurred number. Regards.....D&E&i The only certainty with fossil hunting is the uncertainty. https://lnk.bio/Darren.Withers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrangellian Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 I mark my specimen numbers with a fine point Sharpie marker. No need to seal at that point. The problem with that is that my shale is dark and you can hardly see a black pen mark on it, if at all. I do use that with light-colored specimens. It took me a while to find the white pen for my dark stuff, and am happy with it (so far).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrangellian Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Vinac/Paraloid/Butvar...A brush swipe. bed the indelible label in it, seal with another brush swipe. It's good enough for museums Rej's attachment from the AMNH seems to indicate that the underlayer is not necessary (unless sandy matrix), and some specimens even preferable without it? I guess I'll try the Vinac/Butvar method, I just hope the acetone doesn't dissolve my ink markings! I'm pretty sure (not 100%) my white ink is 'archival', but what it was suspended in I have no idea. Will find out if it works with Vinac/butvar on top and update here. The thing is I am not about to redo all my many markings if I can avoid it, except the early ones where I used a dab of whiteout and wrote in black on top of that - this much alone will be plenty of work. I like the elegance of white lettering on the black shale anyway, like the pic I showed above which was my inspiration. Edited April 29, 2015 by Wrangellian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpc Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) Glad you found this pdf... And your white pen. I use titanium white acrylic paint to paint a dab of color on my specimen. Then a .005 Pigma pen to write the number on the paint. It is also mentioned in the PDF, I believe Edited April 30, 2015 by jpc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrangellian Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Yes I considered that, and was doing the same but with whiteout before, but for aesthetic reasons I like the white pen with clear coat better (if it works out). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOM BUCKLEY Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I use my thin B-72 consolident. Put a dab on the fossil to seal it. Then print out the number from the computer, cut it out, and then put it on the sealed spot. Cover it with a couple of swipes of additional very thin B-72. One advantage is you can make the number as small as you'd like. Smaller than you could ever write by hand. I usually wait until I need a few labels to avoid wasting too much paper. Tom AVOCATIONAL PALEONTOLOGIST STROKE SURVIVOR CANCER SURVIVOR CURMUDGEON "THERE IS A VERY FINE LINE BETWEEN AVOCATIONAL PALEONTOLOGY AND MENTAL ILLNESS" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I use my thin B-72 consolident. Put a dab on the fossil to seal it. Then print out the number from the computer, cut it out, and then put it on the sealed spot. Cover it with a couple of swipes of additional very thin B-72. One advantage is you can make the number as small as you'd like. Smaller than you could ever write by hand. I usually wait until I need a few labels to avoid wasting too much paper. Tom Will this work with an inkjet printer or does it have to be a laser printer I wonder? Great concept though, much neater than my serial killer style handwriting! Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspex Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Will this work with an inkjet printer or does it have to be a laser printer I wonder? Great concept though, much neater than my serial killer style handwriting! Normal ink-jet ink will become illegible under the influence of acetone or alcohol. "There has been an alarming increase in the number of things I know nothing about." - Ashleigh Ellwood Brilliant “Try to learn something about everything and everything about something.” - Thomas Henry Huxley >Paleontology is an evolving science. >May your wonders never cease! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOM BUCKLEY Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Will this work with an inkjet printer or does it have to be a laser printer I wonder? Great concept though, much neater than my serial killer style handwriting! My printer is a normal inkjet. To, AVOCATIONAL PALEONTOLOGIST STROKE SURVIVOR CANCER SURVIVOR CURMUDGEON "THERE IS A VERY FINE LINE BETWEEN AVOCATIONAL PALEONTOLOGY AND MENTAL ILLNESS" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOM BUCKLEY Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Normal ink-jet ink will become illegible under the influence of acetone or alcohol. I have just a regular inkjet and it works fine with my acetone based sealant. Tom AVOCATIONAL PALEONTOLOGIST STROKE SURVIVOR CANCER SURVIVOR CURMUDGEON "THERE IS A VERY FINE LINE BETWEEN AVOCATIONAL PALEONTOLOGY AND MENTAL ILLNESS" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I see a scientific test in my future! Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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