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Non glossy consolidation


JohnBrewer

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7 hours ago, JohnBrewer said:

@steelhead9 Yeah, as soon as I’d done the front of the matrix with 5% I hit the back and sides with 25% Paraloid. 

 

I do have an air abrader and like your idea. I’d have to import the paleobond as I’m in the U.K. but it does sound a useful thing to have around. 

 

Anyway folks i tried Kris’ option 1 using ethanol to remove the glossiness but retain the consolidation properties. I used a paintbrush. Kris I do dissolve Paraloid in ethanol but a low mixes. Takes an age to dissolve but I find keeping a small bottle in my trouser pocket throughout the day (warmth and agitation) helps. I do add a small amount of acetone sometimes too say w/v/v 10% Paraloid/20% acetone and 70% ethanol 

 

Try using acetone to remove the Paraloid from the surface rather than ethanol. It will go faster.

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The gloss on the surface is created by a smooth and reflective polymer layer on the surface. I am not aware of any way to prevent this polymer layer by choosing the solvent. At best, the polymer can be washed off on the surface shortly after application - the polymer that has penetrated the rock will not be dissolved out so quickly - the rock is somewhat solidified. Or it can be removed by air abrasion.
 
Matting agents are added to the laquer formulation (as a filler) to make coatings appear matt. This is a fine-grained material (often fumed silica), which makes the surface rougher and therefore less reflective.
 
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Be not ashamed of mistakes and thus make them crimes (Confucius, 551 BC - 479 BC).

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On 6/30/2018 at 1:53 AM, oilshale said:
The gloss on the surface is created by a smooth and reflective polymer layer on the surface. I am not aware of any way to prevent this polymer layer by choosing the solvent.
 

I was always told to dissolve PVA in ethanol for a less glossy effect. Maybe the people who told me didn't know what they were talking about. :D I keep a bulk stock of PVA mixed up so never have felt the need to use alcohol as a solvent. I always wash the surface with acetone to remove the surface polymer if I need to.

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Compared to alcohol, acetone has one drawback - It can evaporate too fast. When the solvent evaporates, the surface cools down and moisture will condense. This can cause a whitening or blushing effect. Especially in humid areas, this can be a problem. You will need to have an eye on both humidity and ambient temperature.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Avoiding_Blush.html

You can avoid this blushing by using a solvent with a higher boiling point such as alcohol, methyl ethy ketone (MEK) or methylacetate.

Be not ashamed of mistakes and thus make them crimes (Confucius, 551 BC - 479 BC).

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On 7/2/2018 at 2:58 AM, oilshale said:
 

You can avoid this blushing by using a solvent with a higher boiling point such as alcohol, methyl ethy ketone (MEK) or methylacetate.

You can also avoid blushing by not telling dirty jokes to your specimen during preparation... Sorry, couldn't resist.

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